2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
01-30-18, 09:16 PM
#3511
did you use a timing light? if you did you would know the timing is right then and if you are off a tooth.
kinda sounds like you are skipping steps and expecting things to work perfect.
The sound is likely due to timing being off and running lean wouldn't help wither.
440cc injectors, make sure map sensor is plumbed into a good spot (try teeing in with fuel pressure regulator), make sure timing is working and confirm with jumper that its changing sound when you go to set it, check for intake leaks.
it may start with 330cc injectors due to cold start enrichment, but its not going to run very well, it will very lean across the board and will probably stall out as it warms up or when you rev it.
also if the timing is off that wont be helping anything. the timing should be checked cause the ge is adjustable and driven off the cam, the TT is non adjustable run off the crank so getting it synched is crucial cause it can be a little off just inserting it with the teeth lined up. even on a ge ecu inserting it with the teeth lined up or one tooth back gets you close, but its never right and usually needs a small tweak with the light. also with the vvti coils make sure to use a regular timing light and not a dial back light with the numbers on it, the dial back will read wrong due to wasted spark coils.. maybe if you set it to 0 it might work not sure.
kinda sounds like you are skipping steps and expecting things to work perfect.
The sound is likely due to timing being off and running lean wouldn't help wither.
440cc injectors, make sure map sensor is plumbed into a good spot (try teeing in with fuel pressure regulator), make sure timing is working and confirm with jumper that its changing sound when you go to set it, check for intake leaks.
it may start with 330cc injectors due to cold start enrichment, but its not going to run very well, it will very lean across the board and will probably stall out as it warms up or when you rev it.
also if the timing is off that wont be helping anything. the timing should be checked cause the ge is adjustable and driven off the cam, the TT is non adjustable run off the crank so getting it synched is crucial cause it can be a little off just inserting it with the teeth lined up. even on a ge ecu inserting it with the teeth lined up or one tooth back gets you close, but its never right and usually needs a small tweak with the light. also with the vvti coils make sure to use a regular timing light and not a dial back light with the numbers on it, the dial back will read wrong due to wasted spark coils.. maybe if you set it to 0 it might work not sure.
I initially did not use a timing light. put light on and it was flashing but no timing mark. took dizzy out rotated it alittle and went back to light, saw the timing mark and set it to 10. So that would mean my dizzy is installed correct? It Still ran the same. there is a change if i unplug the map. map signal is solid. i disconnected it at ecu saw change and put it back in ecu plug. I used a normal timing light on the coil wire on cylinder 1.
Map is tee'd. I am going to finish wiring up the 440's and resistor box. there all dropped in again lol. i bought them from a local with tt ecu and he made good power on them. i know the map ground is important and im getting that from the old maf plug i tried both of the brown wires and it runs the same. that is the right ground right? .5v im getting from the blue/red wire from the old maf plug
wired safety nutreul to park so i could see codes flashing. CEL light is on but no flashing. i do have the one wire powered at the ecu with constant power to retain memory
i went over the vvti harness prob a 5 times and everything looks wired correctly. seams like the ingniton timing is just wacky. car starts for a split sec with my old vvti ignitor. the one i grabbed from the junkyard it runs like i been talking about. im about to get another one
could it be spark plugs i havent changed those for tt ecu? I just took them out and cleaned them up with break cleaner
I was thinking the 3 coils have that 1 plug on each of them with the 2 wires. ones +b and the other is the signal. is the top part of the plug the +b and the bottom the signal?. top part of the plug meaning the button part. i was thinking mayby i just have them swapped. idk. the diagrams in the beginning of this thread dont specify that.
Last edited by ZOOT3D240; 01-30-18 at 09:55 PM.
01-31-18, 10:00 AM
#3512
ok 440s are installed and it runs exactly the same. pulled plug on tps while running and there is a change. pulled plug on iacv and theres no change. i noticed when i installed the injectors i had 4 rouge wire i had wrapped together. two of those 4 wires are b/r. i looked at iacv plug and theres 2 exactly the same b/r wires. cant remeber why i cut them. i was thinking they were vsvc's or something. mayby they have to be powered idk
just tested those the 2 b/r at iacv and they got power. did the the same for the 2 rouge b/r wires so its def getting power to iacv
just tested those the 2 b/r at iacv and they got power. did the the same for the 2 rouge b/r wires so its def getting power to iacv
Last edited by ZOOT3D240; 01-31-18 at 10:17 AM.
01-31-18, 10:05 AM
#3513
ok 440s are installed and it runs exactly the same. pulled plug on tps while running and there is a change. pulled plug on iacv and theres no change. i noticed when i installed the injectors i had 4 rouge wire i had wrapped together. two of those 4 wires are b/r. i looked at iacv plug and theres 2 exactly the same b/r wires. cant remeber why i cut them. i was thinking they were vsvc's or something. mayby they have to be powered idk
01-31-18, 12:53 PM
#3517
You need to put the jumper in the diagnostic terminal when setting the timing, if you don't then you are not doing it right.
that lets you set the "base timing" and when you remove the jumper the timing will jump up to the "actual timing" and you can hear the change in sound between the 2.
if you just adjust the timing without doing that.. you are setting the "actual timing" to 10, then your base timing will be much lower than 10 and will be off.
the maf power wire should be 5v. the b/r wires are power wires, you wont be using all of them with the resistor pack since it splits some off.
make sure the coil connector clips are not broken, if they are not seated and clicked in they will misfire or not fire right at all.
I forget which way the wires go on the coil plug for power and signal, try finding a picture online of the connector and you should be able to tell.
you can also look at the one on the stock coil if you haven't removed it already, it is the same connector.
make sure the coils are paired correctly, the pairing is different than the pairing for the injectors.
it is possible the ecu or something went bad when you had the wires off but maybe its something simple too.
The mod is pretty straight forward so I think you are just missing something along the way. start with setting the timing with the jumper installed like on page 1.
remove the rotor from the inside of the distributor also, no need for it to be there anymore and better to have it off to eliminate any noise etc..
that lets you set the "base timing" and when you remove the jumper the timing will jump up to the "actual timing" and you can hear the change in sound between the 2.
if you just adjust the timing without doing that.. you are setting the "actual timing" to 10, then your base timing will be much lower than 10 and will be off.
the maf power wire should be 5v. the b/r wires are power wires, you wont be using all of them with the resistor pack since it splits some off.
make sure the coil connector clips are not broken, if they are not seated and clicked in they will misfire or not fire right at all.
I forget which way the wires go on the coil plug for power and signal, try finding a picture online of the connector and you should be able to tell.
you can also look at the one on the stock coil if you haven't removed it already, it is the same connector.
make sure the coils are paired correctly, the pairing is different than the pairing for the injectors.
it is possible the ecu or something went bad when you had the wires off but maybe its something simple too.
The mod is pretty straight forward so I think you are just missing something along the way. start with setting the timing with the jumper installed like on page 1.
remove the rotor from the inside of the distributor also, no need for it to be there anymore and better to have it off to eliminate any noise etc..
02-04-18, 09:13 PM
#3519
hey i was thinking do i have to repin my tps sensor? I am running na intake, tps and throttle body. Am i supposed to repin it to the gte ecu?
94 gs300 harness no trac non vvti to aristo 93 non vvti tt ecu
94 gs300 harness no trac non vvti to aristo 93 non vvti tt ecu
02-05-18, 12:28 PM
#3520
no the tps does not need to be re pinned when using a ge harness and a ge throttle body.
Just the stuff on page 1. many people have done this mod and it works with just the stuff on post 1 and post 4 so you have some other issue going on.
If it was running perfect before with the n/a stuff, then you have a bad part or the wiring is bad/wrong.
some have had some issues with old solder on power wires for igniter or injectors coming apart due to age/condition of their harness and moving that stuff around, but as far as wiring just the stuff on page 1 which isn't a whole lot of stuff.
you may find it easier to go back to the n/a setup and start over again without messing with the distributor and other stuff you did.
What is the car currently doing now? I thought you said it was running at some point.
Just the stuff on page 1. many people have done this mod and it works with just the stuff on post 1 and post 4 so you have some other issue going on.
If it was running perfect before with the n/a stuff, then you have a bad part or the wiring is bad/wrong.
some have had some issues with old solder on power wires for igniter or injectors coming apart due to age/condition of their harness and moving that stuff around, but as far as wiring just the stuff on page 1 which isn't a whole lot of stuff.
you may find it easier to go back to the n/a setup and start over again without messing with the distributor and other stuff you did.
What is the car currently doing now? I thought you said it was running at some point.
02-09-18, 09:06 AM
#3524
Wiring is the same for the usdm versiond obd1 and obd2. they both use the maf for fueling, and the map sensor for boost functions.
both are picky with regards to misfires, but if I remember right the obd2 is more sensitive, but the obd2 does have the improved fuel map etc.. see the discussion on supraforums.
With the obd2 ecu though, you can wire up an obd2 port to pull codes etc.. even if you have an obd1 car you can still add the obd2 port its just a few wires.
if your car is already obd2 then obd2 should be working when you use the usdm obd2 tt ecu.
If you do not need obd2 or emissions, my recommendation is always go with the jdm ecu.
alot of places even if you fail the obd2 test as in it doesn't work when plugged in, they may still put the car on the rollers so if you are running clean with a cat etc.. you can still get an overall pass. some places require it to all work then that isn't an option. I would check with your local place to see if that is your concern cause the jdm ecu is much better. if you are obd1 then you can use the jdm ecu no problem, more of an issue when you are 96+ obd2.
both are picky with regards to misfires, but if I remember right the obd2 is more sensitive, but the obd2 does have the improved fuel map etc.. see the discussion on supraforums.
With the obd2 ecu though, you can wire up an obd2 port to pull codes etc.. even if you have an obd1 car you can still add the obd2 port its just a few wires.
if your car is already obd2 then obd2 should be working when you use the usdm obd2 tt ecu.
If you do not need obd2 or emissions, my recommendation is always go with the jdm ecu.
alot of places even if you fail the obd2 test as in it doesn't work when plugged in, they may still put the car on the rollers so if you are running clean with a cat etc.. you can still get an overall pass. some places require it to all work then that isn't an option. I would check with your local place to see if that is your concern cause the jdm ecu is much better. if you are obd1 then you can use the jdm ecu no problem, more of an issue when you are 96+ obd2.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-09-18 at 09:10 AM.
02-12-18, 09:35 AM
#3525
So I tested the continuity of all the pins at the ecu to the engine harness. Turns out i never had +5v sensor power going to tps and map. so now the engine revs up and idles good but there is one problem. cylinder 4 will not fire. all the other Exhaust ports are hot the 4th one is cold. i tested continuity of the coils to igniter and the continuity from igniter to ecu. everything checked out good. im picking up a spare igniter today. checked each coil for spark and everything sparks. number 4 looks like weak spark to me. i swapped coils around too still same problem What you guys thinking?