2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
01-10-18, 01:26 PM
#3496
keep in mind i had this car running flawlessly on a usdm 93 2jzge ecu maf setup. I THINK I MAY HAVE TOASTED MY TT ECU. so i went back to stock 330's to elimnate messing up fuel wiring. ill upgrade those the day it idles on all 6. I grabbed a spare ge dizzy vvti ignitor and coils. bassically the first time i wired it up i had the car running with the mk3 440s and resister pack from what i think is from an accord. bough the setup from a kid i think he was standalone though but he ran them. along the wiring i had broke the plug at the distributor. i def wired that up wrong and the car ran for about 1 minute and then still crappy on 3 then just shut off and it wont run on 3 ever since then. it cranks and backfires and starts about 1 to 3 seconds. im thinking i fried my computer. i got the ecu to show the cel light but its just blinking and wont flash any codes. dont worry i wired my ecu to have power at the ecu so it saves codes. i really think i fried this thing.
Last edited by ZOOT3D240; 01-10-18 at 01:38 PM.
01-10-18, 01:29 PM
#3497
keep in mind i had this car running flawlessly on a usdm 93 2jzge ecu maf setup. I THINK I MAY HAVE TOASTED MY TT ECU. so i went back to stock 330's to elimnate messing up fuel wiring. ill upgrade those the day it idles on all 6. I grabbed a spare ge dizzy vvti ignitor and coils. bassically the first time i wired it up i had the car running with the mk3 440s and resister pack from what i think is from an accord. bough the setup from a kid i think he was standalone though but he ran them. along the wiring i had broke the plug at the distributor. i def wired that up wrong and the car ran for about 1 minute and then still crappy on 3 then just shut off and it wont run on 3 ever since then. it cranks and backfires and starts about 1 to 3 seconds. im thinking i fried my computer. i got the ecu to show the cel light but its just blinking and wont flash any codes. dont worry i wired my ecu to have power at the ecu so it saves codes. i really think i fried this thing.
01-10-18, 01:32 PM
#3498
another thing i noticed is that the 2jzge ecu pinout has the 4 wires going straight to the dizzy. theres n1 g1 g2 and G. where do i wire G on the 2jzgte aristo pinout. there is no G on the aristo pinout. im also curious. why is there another stack of n1 g1 g2? G was wired up the the other n1 if that makes any sense. so another words how are you guys wiring up your crank sensors? or do u just leave it like i originally thought
i swapped the n1 g1 g2 to -n1 -g1 -g2 and im getting nothing. just cranks
i swapped the n1 g1 g2 to -n1 -g1 -g2 and im getting nothing. just cranks
Last edited by ZOOT3D240; 01-10-18 at 01:38 PM.
01-10-18, 01:35 PM
#3499
01-10-18, 01:41 PM
#3501
01-10-18, 02:23 PM
#3502
I meant that my car is currently running using this mod and the distributor. I did not change any of the distributor wires.
So did you move your distributor wires back to their original positions?
Also, blinking CEL means that there are no codes.
Also, blinking CEL means that there are no codes.
Last edited by mrmj2u; 01-10-18 at 03:16 PM.
01-21-18, 04:35 AM
#3503
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Ok guys I am extremely sorry if this sounds dumb...I have a 93 JDM supra that runs on MAP and IAT from factory can I just plug up the TT ecu, 440's and TT map sensor? Its never that simple but in essence over coffee, it should work shouldn't it?
01-21-18, 05:10 AM
#3505
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Thank you for the quick reply. The JDM NA's are on distributor and wires with a 1bar MAP and IAT.I would be more inclined to blend the systems and get the TT ecu to run the stand distributor and wires...versus converting to cop I cant do a whole lot with it where I am now so I'm just trying to get it to run a smoothly as possible till I can ship it. The main concerns were the harness and pin out for the NA vs. TT and since the two main differences being the MAF and the MAP wiring wasn't necessary if anyone had some info to lend. I'm having a super hard time finding out about the non-us market MAP based NA's not much is out there from what I'm searching.
01-21-18, 06:01 AM
#3506
There is info on running the wires and cap: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ml#post8524788
The post shows that he has the Coil on Plug setup, but he hadn’t installed them yet, and he got it all going without it. The information is on pages 113, and he has a few videos of his setup on page 114.
The post shows that he has the Coil on Plug setup, but he hadn’t installed them yet, and he got it all going without it. The information is on pages 113, and he has a few videos of his setup on page 114.
Last edited by mrmj2u; 01-21-18 at 09:19 AM.
01-21-18, 09:13 PM
#3507
to upgrade from the jdm 2jzge ecu to the tt ecu is basically the same thing except you can skip the step of wiring the map and IAT. instead just swap your n/a map sensor for the tt map sensor and that step is done.
you still require 440cc injectors and changing the ignitor. to use the stock distributor get the ds62 ignitor and follow the instructions on page 1 to install without going coilpacks. after the ignitor change you still need to do the tach cluster mod to get the rpm gauge working.
you still require 440cc injectors and changing the ignitor. to use the stock distributor get the ds62 ignitor and follow the instructions on page 1 to install without going coilpacks. after the ignitor change you still need to do the tach cluster mod to get the rpm gauge working.
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01-21-18, 11:54 PM
#3508
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to upgrade from the jdm 2jzge ecu to the tt ecu is basically the same thing except you can skip the step of wiring the map and IAT. instead just swap your n/a map sensor for the tt map sensor and that step is done.
you still require 440cc injectors and changing the ignitor. to use the stock distributor get the ds62 ignitor and follow the instructions on page 1 to install without going coilpacks. after the ignitor change you still need to do the tach cluster mod to get the rpm gauge working.
you still require 440cc injectors and changing the ignitor. to use the stock distributor get the ds62 ignitor and follow the instructions on page 1 to install without going coilpacks. after the ignitor change you still need to do the tach cluster mod to get the rpm gauge working.
01-29-18, 10:02 AM
#3509
checked vvti coils 1 wire is constant and the other is pulsating like it should. went back to stock 330 ge injectors/wiring to eliminate the 440s being wired wrong. all 6 injectors are pulsating and the other wire is constant power like it should. ill upgrade to 440s the day this thing idles right. Cleaned the fouled spark plugs. starts right up and idles just sounds like a wrx. stumbles on its face when i give it throttle.let go and it idles again. walboro 255 is def sending fuel to the rail. i picked up a spare tt ecu and tt map. still runs the same. im gonna try a spare ignitor right now. the only thing i can think of i mayby im putting dizzy in a missing a tooth.
mind you i had this enigne with the ge harness and ge ecu in my 240 for 2 years daily driving and hit like 20 drift events. i took the dizzy out a few times and never had a problem installing it so i dont know why it would be any different with the tt ecu.
mind you i had this enigne with the ge harness and ge ecu in my 240 for 2 years daily driving and hit like 20 drift events. i took the dizzy out a few times and never had a problem installing it so i dont know why it would be any different with the tt ecu.
01-30-18, 10:44 AM
#3510
did you use a timing light? if you did you would know the timing is right then and if you are off a tooth.
kinda sounds like you are skipping steps and expecting things to work perfect.
The sound is likely due to timing being off and running lean wouldn't help wither.
440cc injectors, make sure map sensor is plumbed into a good spot (try teeing in with fuel pressure regulator), make sure timing is working and confirm with jumper that its changing sound when you go to set it, check for intake leaks.
it may start with 330cc injectors due to cold start enrichment, but its not going to run very well, it will very lean across the board and will probably stall out as it warms up or when you rev it.
also if the timing is off that wont be helping anything. the timing should be checked cause the ge is adjustable and driven off the cam, the TT is non adjustable run off the crank so getting it synched is crucial cause it can be a little off just inserting it with the teeth lined up. even on a ge ecu inserting it with the teeth lined up or one tooth back gets you close, but its never right and usually needs a small tweak with the light. also with the vvti coils make sure to use a regular timing light and not a dial back light with the numbers on it, the dial back will read wrong due to wasted spark coils.. maybe if you set it to 0 it might work not sure.
kinda sounds like you are skipping steps and expecting things to work perfect.
The sound is likely due to timing being off and running lean wouldn't help wither.
440cc injectors, make sure map sensor is plumbed into a good spot (try teeing in with fuel pressure regulator), make sure timing is working and confirm with jumper that its changing sound when you go to set it, check for intake leaks.
it may start with 330cc injectors due to cold start enrichment, but its not going to run very well, it will very lean across the board and will probably stall out as it warms up or when you rev it.
also if the timing is off that wont be helping anything. the timing should be checked cause the ge is adjustable and driven off the cam, the TT is non adjustable run off the crank so getting it synched is crucial cause it can be a little off just inserting it with the teeth lined up. even on a ge ecu inserting it with the teeth lined up or one tooth back gets you close, but its never right and usually needs a small tweak with the light. also with the vvti coils make sure to use a regular timing light and not a dial back light with the numbers on it, the dial back will read wrong due to wasted spark coils.. maybe if you set it to 0 it might work not sure.