2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
12-07-17, 04:21 PM
#3481
I just want to check in: one year (little over) after doing the TT ECU MOD. What comes next isn't for the faint of heart so please leave now if your nervous:
Car still runs fantastic!! I just maxed out my stock fuel pump at 11 psi and 360whp/332tq. Well I won't say maxed at 11 psi (11.5 afr) but 13-14 psi with a 12.5-12.6 AFR IS harder then I want to push the JDM fuel setup with a unopened GE, pump and no tune. Car runs good though. I switched out to a Walbro 255 and cranked it to 15 psi for laughs and it holds fine. With 8 degrees base timing too. Might knock it back a bit to be a bit safer but the AFR's are a lot richer now.
As I said, don't do what I do but 15 psi on a stock GE pulls HARD with a S366. Just saying. Wait till it gets tuned. And no I don't run 15 psi every day. But I do run 12-13.
Car still runs fantastic!! I just maxed out my stock fuel pump at 11 psi and 360whp/332tq. Well I won't say maxed at 11 psi (11.5 afr) but 13-14 psi with a 12.5-12.6 AFR IS harder then I want to push the JDM fuel setup with a unopened GE, pump and no tune. Car runs good though. I switched out to a Walbro 255 and cranked it to 15 psi for laughs and it holds fine. With 8 degrees base timing too. Might knock it back a bit to be a bit safer but the AFR's are a lot richer now.
As I said, don't do what I do but 15 psi on a stock GE pulls HARD with a S366. Just saying. Wait till it gets tuned. And no I don't run 15 psi every day. But I do run 12-13.
12-08-17, 09:10 AM
#3482
Been lurking for a few weeks since I bought my SC and already ordered my turbo kit from Whifbitz so I am waiting for that. It’s a 1993 so it’s OBD1 and it auto as well. I was looking into getting the mapecu3 but with all the negatives I decided maybe this route is better. The only concern is the torque converter lock up issue. I’ve read through more than 50+ pages and just want a clear answer. Did the fix for the lock up work that was posted on page 170ish or no? I think I may have read that it didn’t work.
I haven't bothered with it as the stock auto wont hold that much power for long anyways.. just run it and plan to upgrade either to a tt auto of a manual trans.
if you drive on the highway alot, then put a trans cooler on there that will help some.
The n/a ecu goes into check mode when it sees any boost, people still use them with something that clamps the map sensor, and then use a piggyback to tune them.
But you will need a piggyback and the tune is not the easiest. On supraforums there is a mod in the n/a section who ran that exact setup, and he ended up changing it out for the tt ecu mod.
the other advantage of the tt ecu mod is the ability to run coilpacks, you cannot do that with the jdm ge ecu.
Hoping you guys can help me out here. I'm having some issues with my NA-t after boosting it. Its a vvti 2jzge running a JDM vvti 2jzgte ecu and maf and map sensor.
Heres my set up:
walbro 255 pump, return style fuel pressure regualtor set at about 42 psi right now, also rises 1:1 with boost ( vacuum line from intake to regulator), 420cc high impedance injectors, 2jzgte ecu, maf sensor (pre turbo with a 3" tube, its also a very short intake pipe), no bov at the moment, so doesnt affect my issue but it will be vented to atmosphere.
All of my AFR's are normal except for when i let off the throttle. At idle im at around 14, under load at wot im around 11, then when i let off the throttle ( weather i let off at wot or just cruising speed) the AFR's go to 10.0 and will stay there until i touch the throttle again. If i dont touch the throttle it just holds steady at 10.0 and i can see smoke coming my exhaust like im just dumping raw gas. After i touch the gas they go to 16+ which i think is what should happen right after i let off the throttle. This also causes my engine to stall when coming to a stop.
It didnt do this before i was boosted, and it also does this with the ge ecu installed. I checked all my connections with soapy water to look for an air leak but i coudnt find anything.
My left valve cover hose ( i beleive is the crankcase breather) just has a filter on it, and my right valve cover hose (pcv vavle) is routed to the intake manifild just like it would in a stock application.
All the stock vacuum lines, including the one to the fuel rail, are still hooked up as if it was NA still. Do i need to re route some of these or are these not related to my issue?
My wastegate sensor line is also hooked up to the compressor housing, if that makes a difference.
I'm not sure what is goin on, does anyone have any ideas?
Heres my set up:
walbro 255 pump, return style fuel pressure regualtor set at about 42 psi right now, also rises 1:1 with boost ( vacuum line from intake to regulator), 420cc high impedance injectors, 2jzgte ecu, maf sensor (pre turbo with a 3" tube, its also a very short intake pipe), no bov at the moment, so doesnt affect my issue but it will be vented to atmosphere.
All of my AFR's are normal except for when i let off the throttle. At idle im at around 14, under load at wot im around 11, then when i let off the throttle ( weather i let off at wot or just cruising speed) the AFR's go to 10.0 and will stay there until i touch the throttle again. If i dont touch the throttle it just holds steady at 10.0 and i can see smoke coming my exhaust like im just dumping raw gas. After i touch the gas they go to 16+ which i think is what should happen right after i let off the throttle. This also causes my engine to stall when coming to a stop.
It didnt do this before i was boosted, and it also does this with the ge ecu installed. I checked all my connections with soapy water to look for an air leak but i coudnt find anything.
My left valve cover hose ( i beleive is the crankcase breather) just has a filter on it, and my right valve cover hose (pcv vavle) is routed to the intake manifild just like it would in a stock application.
All the stock vacuum lines, including the one to the fuel rail, are still hooked up as if it was NA still. Do i need to re route some of these or are these not related to my issue?
My wastegate sensor line is also hooked up to the compressor housing, if that makes a difference.
I'm not sure what is goin on, does anyone have any ideas?
even though you didn't touch it since going with the tt ecu, it often requires adjustment to get it just right.
do the procedure for setting the timing and see if you hear the noise change. if you don't then its definitely the tps and adjust it per the instructions in the link.
it could also be where you have the map sensor tapped into. I Always suggest teeing into the fuel pressure regulator vac line, or use the factory dedicated port on the back of the intake manfiold (has a plug in it on usdm models).
12-08-17, 09:15 AM
#3483
I just want to check in: one year (little over) after doing the TT ECU MOD. What comes next isn't for the faint of heart so please leave now if your nervous:
Car still runs fantastic!! I just maxed out my stock fuel pump at 11 psi and 360whp/332tq. Well I won't say maxed at 11 psi (11.5 afr) but 13-14 psi with a 12.5-12.6 AFR IS harder then I want to push the JDM fuel setup with a unopened GE, pump and no tune. Car runs good though. I switched out to a Walbro 255 and cranked it to 15 psi for laughs and it holds fine. With 8 degrees base timing too. Might knock it back a bit to be a bit safer but the AFR's are a lot richer now.
As I said, don't do what I do but 15 psi on a stock GE pulls HARD with a S366. Just saying. Wait till it gets tuned. And no I don't run 15 psi every day. But I do run 12-13.
Car still runs fantastic!! I just maxed out my stock fuel pump at 11 psi and 360whp/332tq. Well I won't say maxed at 11 psi (11.5 afr) but 13-14 psi with a 12.5-12.6 AFR IS harder then I want to push the JDM fuel setup with a unopened GE, pump and no tune. Car runs good though. I switched out to a Walbro 255 and cranked it to 15 psi for laughs and it holds fine. With 8 degrees base timing too. Might knock it back a bit to be a bit safer but the AFR's are a lot richer now.
As I said, don't do what I do but 15 psi on a stock GE pulls HARD with a S366. Just saying. Wait till it gets tuned. And no I don't run 15 psi every day. But I do run 12-13.
The walboro will definately help things out in the afr department. Its probably cause the 366 flows alot of air you are leaning out so fast along with the stock compression. With my smaller turbo and TT headgasket I was running 16 psi on 440's and a walboro with good afr's. With 550's I was running 18 psi just fine.
I think you would be fine at 14-16 psi as long as the afr's are in the 11 range, and I am sure that thing must kick hard on stock compression.
Just keep an eye out for hitting boost cut on cold days cause its somewhere around 14-15 psi at sea level, unless you have a boost cut controller installed.
12-08-17, 04:11 PM
#3484
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
Thanks for checking back in, sounds like its working out pretty well for you, those are good numbers for such low boost!!
The walboro will definately help things out in the afr department. Its probably cause the 366 flows alot of air you are leaning out so fast along with the stock compression. With my smaller turbo and TT headgasket I was running 16 psi on 440's and a walboro with good afr's. With 550's I was running 18 psi just fine.
I think you would be fine at 14-16 psi as long as the afr's are in the 11 range, and I am sure that thing must kick hard on stock compression.
Just keep an eye out for hitting boost cut on cold days cause its somewhere around 14-15 psi at sea level, unless you have a boost cut controller installed.
The walboro will definately help things out in the afr department. Its probably cause the 366 flows alot of air you are leaning out so fast along with the stock compression. With my smaller turbo and TT headgasket I was running 16 psi on 440's and a walboro with good afr's. With 550's I was running 18 psi just fine.
I think you would be fine at 14-16 psi as long as the afr's are in the 11 range, and I am sure that thing must kick hard on stock compression.
Just keep an eye out for hitting boost cut on cold days cause its somewhere around 14-15 psi at sea level, unless you have a boost cut controller installed.
12-09-17, 06:53 AM
#3485
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Arizona
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Thanks for the response Ali. In the past week I ended up picking up a brand new built r154 and I found an Aristo TT ecu on Facebook for $50 so I decided to pick it up. Since the ecu is an auto I do plan looking for a jdm supra tt manual ecu, but I’ll run this one in the mean time. Turbo kit is supposed to arrive Monday so I am pretty stoked. Build has to take a backseat for a second however because of Christmas. I’ll end up making a build thread when I get more parts in hand to document the progress.
12-12-17, 07:06 AM
#3486
Bdub, that sounds about right. the boost cut and the speed cut are the main annoying things with the gte ecu. you could get a few more psi out of it going with 550's and a piggyback and then you'll have more fuel also for extra overhead, or get a piggyback that does a boost cut delete or a bcc.
Theory, the aristo should work fine in the time being. just remember if you want the a/c to work you need to wire in that small relay by the ecu. otherwise it will get the job done.
Theory, the aristo should work fine in the time being. just remember if you want the a/c to work you need to wire in that small relay by the ecu. otherwise it will get the job done.
12-14-17, 05:19 PM
#3487
Just a follow up on my code 14 problem. After my intermittent code 14 problem that has plagued my car for the past 3 years and what I thought was an igniter problem has turned out to be a the solder connection at the B+ 12v to the igniter harness. Although the continuity and resistance were within spec on my multimeter somehow, I was able to tug on the wire and stretch the shrink wrap. After pulling the connection apart, I found out that the leadless solder had been pulverized into a powder which caused my engine not being able to fire up since last winter. The pulverized solder joint gave false positive readings on my multimeter.
I've now replaced all the solder joints on my car with Pico's crimp-solder-shrink wrap connectors. I'm so glad code 14 is gone. During the 3 years of code 14, I got engaged, married, and have become a father.
To all fellow members chasing down code 14, give your solder joints a tug to make sure the solder is still solid. Vibration can pulverize your leadless solder joints into a powder even though the connection is shrink wrapped and placed inside a wiring loom.
I've now replaced all the solder joints on my car with Pico's crimp-solder-shrink wrap connectors. I'm so glad code 14 is gone. During the 3 years of code 14, I got engaged, married, and have become a father.
To all fellow members chasing down code 14, give your solder joints a tug to make sure the solder is still solid. Vibration can pulverize your leadless solder joints into a powder even though the connection is shrink wrapped and placed inside a wiring loom.
Last edited by aznexus; 12-14-17 at 05:23 PM.
12-19-17, 09:55 AM
#3489
Driver School Candidate
Been Gathering parts for this 2jz VVTI na-t 2004 is300 project. I was wanting to keep obd2 and saw that the TT USDM supras had the following ECU:
89661-14790-84-BST
1993-1997 MK4 Toyota Supra twin turbo 6-speed V160. Brand new re-manufactured ECU directly from Toyota.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132253352098?ul_noapp=true
"If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector (I think), but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would, will probably need a gte maf to be swapped in place of stock maf and a map sensor added (2jz) to keep ecu happy. Don't think anyone has done this so let us know if you have more info on it."
The above should be plug and play right?
Only asking because the above quote from the first page says there isnt one.
Thank You!
89661-14790-84-BST
1993-1997 MK4 Toyota Supra twin turbo 6-speed V160. Brand new re-manufactured ECU directly from Toyota.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132253352098?ul_noapp=true
"If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector (I think), but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would, will probably need a gte maf to be swapped in place of stock maf and a map sensor added (2jz) to keep ecu happy. Don't think anyone has done this so let us know if you have more info on it."
The above should be plug and play right?
Only asking because the above quote from the first page says there isnt one.
Thank You!
12-19-17, 11:06 AM
#3490
All TT USDM Supras were non vvti. So that means there was never a vvti 2jzgte in the united states, so there was never a vvti 2jzgte ecu that had obd2.. it does not exist.
That link shows a non-vvti ecu, so it wont plug into your is300 harness and it cannot control vvti.
you can swap a vvti ecu for another vvti ecu as they have the same connector.
you can swap a non-vvti ecu for another non-vvti ecu as they have the same connector.
vvti and non vvti ecu's have different connectors and cannot be swapped without changing the harness and/or alot of rewiring.
So the only gte ecu that will plug into your is300 vvti 2jzge harness, is a JDM 2jzgte vvti ecu.
the JDM 2jzgte vvti ecu does not have OBD2, it has something called JOBD and is not the same.
the only way to keep obd2 working on a vvti ge na-t, would be to use the is300 ecu and a good piggyback or run 2 ecus.
IF you were not vvti, then you could use an older 96+ USDM 2jzgte ecu but you would need harness work done, and those ecu's are picky.
Best thing to do is to just use the jdm 2jzgte vvti ecu and forget about obd2 if you can.
Some states you can still pass emissions if the roller test is clean enough, even if the computer can't talk to the ecu.
That link shows a non-vvti ecu, so it wont plug into your is300 harness and it cannot control vvti.
you can swap a vvti ecu for another vvti ecu as they have the same connector.
you can swap a non-vvti ecu for another non-vvti ecu as they have the same connector.
vvti and non vvti ecu's have different connectors and cannot be swapped without changing the harness and/or alot of rewiring.
So the only gte ecu that will plug into your is300 vvti 2jzge harness, is a JDM 2jzgte vvti ecu.
the JDM 2jzgte vvti ecu does not have OBD2, it has something called JOBD and is not the same.
the only way to keep obd2 working on a vvti ge na-t, would be to use the is300 ecu and a good piggyback or run 2 ecus.
IF you were not vvti, then you could use an older 96+ USDM 2jzgte ecu but you would need harness work done, and those ecu's are picky.
Best thing to do is to just use the jdm 2jzgte vvti ecu and forget about obd2 if you can.
Some states you can still pass emissions if the roller test is clean enough, even if the computer can't talk to the ecu.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-19-17 at 11:13 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Hwnpeeps (12-19-17)
12-20-17, 07:30 PM
#3491
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
Bdub, that sounds about right. the boost cut and the speed cut are the main annoying things with the gte ecu. you could get a few more psi out of it going with 550's and a piggyback and then you'll have more fuel also for extra overhead, or get a piggyback that does a boost cut delete or a bcc.
Theory, the aristo should work fine in the time being. just remember if you want the a/c to work you need to wire in that small relay by the ecu. otherwise it will get the job done.
Theory, the aristo should work fine in the time being. just remember if you want the a/c to work you need to wire in that small relay by the ecu. otherwise it will get the job done.
As far as a piggyback, nah. I just picked up a AEM V1 to mess around with. See what I can do with that. Going places one step at a time.
12-21-17, 09:48 AM
#3492
that might be related to the a/c pressure switch or the pressure in the system is too low or too high.. or sometimes the compressor is bad. Not an a/c expert but played with it a little before.
Nice, the v1 isn't bad once you figure it out but there are a bunch of options out there nowadays. proefi seems to be popular.
Nice, the v1 isn't bad once you figure it out but there are a bunch of options out there nowadays. proefi seems to be popular.
12-27-17, 10:59 AM
#3493
just swapped tt ecu and its misfiring any idea's? sounds like its running on 3 cylinders.
2jz is in a s13 and it wired usdm na for 2 years with no problems. drove the car everyday. yesterday i swapped everything because im going turbo.
i guess start with fuel/air/spark right?
2jzgte aristo nonvvti ecu
2jz map
mk3 440s with resistor pack
gm IAT
2jz vvti iginitor
vvti coils
2jz is in a s13 and it wired usdm na for 2 years with no problems. drove the car everyday. yesterday i swapped everything because im going turbo.
i guess start with fuel/air/spark right?
2jzgte aristo nonvvti ecu
2jz map
mk3 440s with resistor pack
gm IAT
2jz vvti iginitor
vvti coils
