2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
11-18-12, 08:20 AM
#751
UPDATE:
I checked the timing before the car had fully warmed up and the it was REALLY retarded. Set it to 8 BTDC and it runs like it should. Yay. So now, why, oh why was it advancing itself so much after it was warm? I have had this car for years, and have pulled the distributor out and reset the timing many, many times. I'm not ignorant. WTF...
I checked the timing before the car had fully warmed up and the it was REALLY retarded. Set it to 8 BTDC and it runs like it should. Yay. So now, why, oh why was it advancing itself so much after it was warm? I have had this car for years, and have pulled the distributor out and reset the timing many, many times. I'm not ignorant. WTF...
11-18-12, 12:48 PM
#753
I'd say yes. No more bucking, and it pulls pretty strong. I'm at around 15 PSI now. It reminded me how badly I need to upgrade my brakes!
I'm still not sure if it's faster than it used to be because I have been driving my turbo motorcycle almost exclusively. At 18 PSI on a motorcycle - that thing pulls HARD.
I'm still not sure if it's faster than it used to be because I have been driving my turbo motorcycle almost exclusively. At 18 PSI on a motorcycle - that thing pulls HARD.
11-18-12, 04:05 PM
#754
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well im still having issues, its weird, I also set my timing last week at 8 bdc and it was money, i checked today and it was wayyy higher like 15, so i pulled it back but I still have some partial throttle bucking and hesitation at 4k
11-18-12, 05:26 PM
#755
yeah your supposed to do it fully warm with the jumpers in the diagnostic connector, sounds like you did it right the first time, whenever I pull out the dizzy I check it a few times, once when adjusting and a few days later to make sure its still fine. map sensor wiring and timing seems to be where most have issues, but glad its resolved so you can finally enjoy it now.
gte ecu seems to be more sensitive to where the timing is set though, but since I set mine to 8, the thing just runs and boosts so strong, I simply have no regrets at all with this mod I can still get it sideways no problem at lower speeds with the stock tune and it pulls really hard on the highway.
I am going to turn it up a few pounds and see if it even hits boost cut, and get an idea of how much psi I can get out of these 440's.
gte ecu seems to be more sensitive to where the timing is set though, but since I set mine to 8, the thing just runs and boosts so strong, I simply have no regrets at all with this mod I can still get it sideways no problem at lower speeds with the stock tune and it pulls really hard on the highway.
I am going to turn it up a few pounds and see if it even hits boost cut, and get an idea of how much psi I can get out of these 440's.
11-18-12, 05:57 PM
#756
Another update... Took the wife to see Batman and it started bucking again! Not as bad, and it still pulls strong at WOT. When I got home, I jumpered the terminals and it is right at 8 BTDC. Unjumpered, it's like 15+ degrees at idle.
Need to finish up that RS232 DB9 cable...
Need to finish up that RS232 DB9 cable...
11-18-12, 06:01 PM
#757
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I had this mod done for me at a performance shop, and reading up on it here, I'm going to struggle to support this should I experience errors or difficulties. But I've learned a lot here. Thanks.
11-18-12, 08:16 PM
#759
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so im kinda pissed now lol
my base timing with the jumper in is waay off, like 16 deg, and i have the dizzy fully adjusted to bring it back in, thats as close as I can get.
I put my engine at TDC and it doesnt look like it jumped a tooth, so what else could be causing that? and how do I fix it?
my base timing with the jumper in is waay off, like 16 deg, and i have the dizzy fully adjusted to bring it back in, thats as close as I can get.
I put my engine at TDC and it doesnt look like it jumped a tooth, so what else could be causing that? and how do I fix it?
11-19-12, 07:38 AM
#761
yes over time I have learnt that if you just line up the marks and stab it in you may be a tooth forward.
the trick is to turn the gear counter clockwise 1-2 clicks with the distributor gear facing engine ready to be put in.
when it hits the cam, the teeth on the cam will make it turn a tooth or 2 to the right, so if you turn 1-2 back you are usually in the "adjustment zone" of the slot on the distributor.
Yours may need a different amount of turns, but the idea is that once all the rotation is done, the cam trigger is pointing at the cam sensor inside the distributor when at TDC.
guys with the jumper in and out there is a huge difference in timing.
I check the timing before the jumper to get an idea of where its at normal operation. usually around 14-16
I check again after I do the jumper to verify that the timing goes down and see what the base timing is. for me I have at 8
Then as long as engine is warmed up you can set the base timing.
Ishootstuff, check your map vac hose make sure its got a tight connection on the map sensor.
bucking can be a sign of the motor having alot of advance or even a tps issue if its at very low speeds.
the trick is to turn the gear counter clockwise 1-2 clicks with the distributor gear facing engine ready to be put in.
when it hits the cam, the teeth on the cam will make it turn a tooth or 2 to the right, so if you turn 1-2 back you are usually in the "adjustment zone" of the slot on the distributor.
Yours may need a different amount of turns, but the idea is that once all the rotation is done, the cam trigger is pointing at the cam sensor inside the distributor when at TDC.
guys with the jumper in and out there is a huge difference in timing.
I check the timing before the jumper to get an idea of where its at normal operation. usually around 14-16
I check again after I do the jumper to verify that the timing goes down and see what the base timing is. for me I have at 8
Then as long as engine is warmed up you can set the base timing.
Ishootstuff, check your map vac hose make sure its got a tight connection on the map sensor.
bucking can be a sign of the motor having alot of advance or even a tps issue if its at very low speeds.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 11-19-12 at 07:48 AM.
11-19-12, 11:53 AM
#762
Yes, I have pretty much gotten rid of the surge. My MAP is good and tight for sure. I think I may have contaminated the TPS when I cleaned the throttle body when I replaced the plug wires. I have it adjusted using the two feeler gauge method. I hope it's OK, I'm about to take it 300 miles.
11-19-12, 12:52 PM
#763
If its idling well it is probably close, but you may need to adjust it further if you are still having issues when you very lightly touch the pedal. I would mark it so you can go back, and try moving it a little bit in each direction until it improves (most likely you will be turning it so the voltage is increasing). if it stops idling entirely, you need to back it up some to where its good again, and thats sort of where you want it. people can throw voltages around all they want but when I set it, I find the set and check method to get the best results with the tps. I have never had to take out the multimeter for the tps yet, each car is going to vary and with different ecu's and different tps's, whats in the manual is just a ballpark.
11-19-12, 05:26 PM
#764
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so another fun update of my issues
i got my timing dialed in when it is hot, at 8 deg, and its idles great now, but it just doesnt pull at all, it hits full boost, but goes no where. could this be because of my tps?
i got my timing dialed in when it is hot, at 8 deg, and its idles great now, but it just doesnt pull at all, it hits full boost, but goes no where. could this be because of my tps?