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ECU: JDM Aristo, Automatic, P/N: 89661-35060.
Wiring Tips:
Plug and play with old ECU connector.
Remember to remove yellow guard before attempting to remove/install pins.
Use small flathead screwdriver to carefully remove guard and pins when necessary.
Also use small flathead screwdriver or pick to insert pins and ensure "click" of pin seating fully is felt/heard.
A/C Relay: Radio Shack 275-0233 or equivalent.
Wiring:
Cut wire going into pin 34 on harness connector E-10, 6" from connector.
Connect wire going toward the connector to bottom single pin on relay.
Connect wire going toward harness/HVAC unit to left middle pin.
Both right middle and top pin get spliced into E-10 pin 32 for power.
(Total of 4 wires)
MAP Sensor: Denso 89421-12111 w/pigtail.
Wiring:
Pin 1 on MAF moves to pin 1 on MAP, sensor ground.
Pin 3 on MAF moves to pin 2 on MAP, signal wire. DO NOT FORGET TO MOVE PIN B66 TO B62 LOCATION ON ECU HARNESS SIDE!!!
Pin 4 on MAF moves to pin 3 on MAP, +5v for sensor.
IAT Sensor: Delphi 25036751 or equivalent w/pigtail.
Wiring:
Pin 2 on MAF moves to pin 2 on IAT (polarity not critical)
Pin 1 on MAF jumpered/spliced to pin 1 on IAT (again, not critical. IAT and MAP share sensor ground pin 1 from MAF)
O2 Sensor: Denso 234-4309 or equivalent w/pigtail.
Wiring:
One black wire goes to ECU pin B71 (heater pin remote v+).
Other black wire goes to 12v pin (black/red wire at ECU or in engine bay, heater power v+).
White wire goes to chassis ground.
Blue wire to ECU pin B48 or the 1 wire the factory o2 sensor had.
Fuel Pump: AEM 320lph, 50-1000.
Wiring:
V+ on old pump now goes to relay below as signal wire.
V+ now comes from relay, heavier gauge.
V- is the same.
Fuel Pump Relay: Dorman 84601 or equivalent.
Wiring:
Signal for relay switching is from OEM v+ for fuel pump.
V+ IN comes straight from battery v+.
V+ OUT goes to pump v+.
V- to chassis ground.
Fuel Tank Seal: Denso 954-0018. Don't replace your pump without it!
Igniter: Toyota DS62, w/pigtail.
Wiring:
Pin 1 of igniter goes to bottom pin of coil 1 (coil 1 sits on cylinder 6 and plug wire goes to cylinder 1).
Pin 2 of igniter comes from B+ from old igniter, goes to top pin of coils 1, 2, and 3.
Pin 3 of igniter comes from Tac on old igniter.
Pin 4 of igniter comes from B57, IGT on old igniter. NOTE: B57 IS SPLICED INTO BY B52.
Pin 5 of igniter comes from B56. NOTE: B56 IS SPLICED INTO BY B53.
Pin 6 of igniter comes from B55. NOTE: B55 IS SPLICED INTO BY B54.
Pin 7 of igniter comes from B58 (IGF on old igniter).
Pin 8 of igniter goes to chassis ground.
Pin 9 of igniter goes to bottom pin of coil 3 (coil 3 sits on cylinder 4, with plug wire to cylinder 3).
Pin 10 of igniter goes to bottom of coil 2 (coil 2 sits on cylinder 2, with plug wire to cylinder 5).
Ignition Coils (3): World Power Systems CUF228 or equivalent, w/ pigtails (3).
Wiring:
SEE IGNITER WIRING.
Spark Plug Wires: BWD/Niehoff CH5608 or equivalent.
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR7EIX, .030" Gap.
Gauge Cluster Wiring:
Remove cluster and find R109 on the inside of the cluster, axial resistor. Jump over the resistor with a piece of buss wire (or remove it and replace with wire or 0 ohm resistor, jumping it is just easier and less permanent).
Getting ACIS to work:
Pull two vacuum lines near brake booster at rear of IM, put a short loop of vacuum line linking those adjacent hard lines to one another. This bypasses vacuum canister.
Setting Timing:
Jumper TE1 and E1 pins of diagnostic port together. With a timing light on plug wire 1 (old school flashing style, not digital), set timing to 6-8 degrees (stock compression). Less is safer. Make sure the car is fully warmed up before doing this or your base timing WILL BE OFF. If jumper on TE1 to E1 does not cause a significant change to idle, verify TPS is calibrated properly.
From what I gather, the parts i bought were the cheapest way to do this with the least amount of problems. I bought the ecu used, but everything else was new. I took a chance with the eBay MAF sensor, so if it doesn't work, the China knockoff goes in the trash and I'll buy a brand new Denso (after taking a second mortgage out to afford it). Otherwise, what is listed above along with a half dozen wires with ecu pins on them, some wire, heat shrink, solder, and sheathing should be all it takes. Realistically if you're staying NA you don't need the fuel pump but who in their right mind would do this ECU swap without aspirations of going turbo? I think I may try to get this running NA first, but already have a xs-power kit with BW S366 and all peripherals ready to install.
Fuel Pump Relay: Dorman 84601 or equivalent.
Wiring:
Fuel Tank Seal: Denso 954-0018. Don't replace your pump without it!
Igniter: Toyota DS62, w/pigtail.
Wiring:
Ignition Coils (3): World Power Systems CUF228 or equivalent, w/ pigtails (3).
Wiring:
Spark Plug Wires: BWD/Niehoff CH5608 or equivalent.
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR7EIX, .030" Gap.
From what I gather, the parts i bought were the cheapest way to do this with the least amount of problems. I bought the ecu used, but everything else was new. I took a chance with the eBay MAF sensor, so if it doesn't work, the China knockoff goes in the trash and I'll buy a brand new Denso (after taking a second mortgage out to afford it). Otherwise, what is listed above along with a half dozen wires with ecu pins on them, some wire, heat shrink, solder, and sheathing should be all it takes. Realistically if you're staying NA you don't need the fuel pump but who in their right mind would do this ECU swap without aspirations of going turbo? I think I may try to get this running NA first, but already have a xs-power kit with BW S366 and all peripherals ready to install.
You don't need the pump unless your pushing 13+ psi of boost. Stock pump is ok. I've proven that. SC300/400/1JZ Soarer fuel pumps are the same. The car won't make a ton of power but it's one less thing to deal with to get the car running.
Thank you for the heads up. Though on a s366 I would be concerned for over driving the pump at less boost than that. Either way I'll get the car running on the stock pump first just to limit the potential issues!
Just finished revising post #3706 from before. Please let me know of any incorrect data or if you have better pinouts etc let me know! Otherwise I'm gonna assume its gravy and roll with it when the time comes. Thanks!
Polarisman, most of it looks good but why did you buy an ebay MAF sensor? did you mean MAP sensor?
the aristo obd1 ecu does not use a maf, it only uses a map sensor. If you got the omni one I don't think it will work.
Also, I have literally never seen one of these ecu's work with an aftermarket map sensor... unless it was a piggyback like a map ecu or emanage.
they generally only work with the factory denso map sensor, so I would recommend you get your hands on one of those.
Yeah, I meant map sensor. Its the same part number as the Denso unit but given it was new and cheap I doubt its the real deal. I'm gonna try to get my hands on a known good used one from a buddy of mine and keep this as a spare if possible.
Working on getting my hands on a known good OEM Denso unit, thanks!
Regarding getting the ac to work with the aristo ecu, is that wiring part of the main ECU or some kind of HVAC specific ecu? If so, where is that located?
Additionally, for the fuel pump, that ecu is behind the driver's side rear seat back/bottom area, correct? Anyone know what pins to deal with there? My thought was I could re route the v+ right where the harness comes out of the tank and mount the relay there. Heavy gauge wires go right from the batt and gnd to the pump itself and the former pump v+ then becomes the "signal" wire to trigger the relay to draw power, right? This would avoid the need to mess with the fuel pump ecu altogether and keep all the wiring right at the tank.
the a/c relay generally would go by the main engine ecu, and is installed on the wire that runs between the main engine ecu and the hvac control head with all the a/c buttons.
you only need to mess with the wire before it goes into the ecu plug connector, similar to the other wiring you will be doing.
you can also grab power and ground off the ecu connector, most of this was in that other thread but maybe it isn't that clear.
You can put the relay wherever you want or by the tank if you are running all new wiring and just using the fuel ecu as a trigger signal.
the old power wire to the pump becomes the trigger signal.
if you put it by the fuel ecu you can reuse some of the wiring, including the power and ground wires going to the actual fuel pump.
you just cut the power wire coming out of the fuel ecu and half left connected to the fuel ecu is the trigger for the relay, and the other half would become your new power wire from the relay to the pump.
If you are going with a big pump and lots of amp draw, run new wires all the way while you are in there changing out the pump.
for my single walboro the stock fuel ecu and wiring was fine, I didn't even use a 12v relay. it is recommended to use the relay for a tt denso though.
If you do put relays and wiring in the trunk, be sure to secure everything very well so they don't come loose or ground out etc.. which could lean you out and blow the motor if that happens in boost.
In my case I will be using an AEM 320lph pump so I will run new wires. Does the negative have to go to the battery or can it be a chassis ground? Do i splice the old negative wire from the pump into the new heavy gauge ground wire, or cap it off? Should be simple regardless.
When I was looking at the ac fix post the images weren't working in that thread so him referring to the photo in his wiring description wasn't super helpful. If someone could snap a new photo of it for this thread or reference some pin locations it would be great...unless the pin locations I referenced in post 3706 were correct and on the main ecu plug as well. I just assumed, incorrectly it seems, that the HVAC system had its own ECU separate from the main Aristo ecu I'll be swapping in. If its right on the main ECU then all I really need is some pin locations ad I assume there are some pin numbers on the connector or ecu somewhere to serve as identifiers.
I didn't do it on my SC but I think most people run a power wire and ground in the trunk I think.
That ground in the trunk needs to be really good or you can have issues, make sure its secure, loctite, whatever. you don't want it to come loose.
I didn't realize that link wasn't working, not sure I have the photo or the info saved anywhere for that.
checking the 2jzgte aristo pinout, it is the 40 pin connector (small ecu connector) pin number 34.
go down to pin 34 and it will give you a description basically like what I said.
the difference between the aristo and the supra/sc is that the hvac unit on one chassis grounds that pin 34, the other chassis gives power to pin 34.
I want to say SC/supra uses ground on pin 34, and the aristo uses power on that pin.
That is why the relay is used. it takes the ground from the HVAC on the trigger side, and supplies power to the main ecu.
You can tell that because in the description 2 of the pins are tapping into the same power which is the power side for the trigger circuit, and the other one sends power to the main ecu when the relay is triggered (grounded by the SC hvac).
Also, when the hvac tells the ecu via pin 34 to turn it on, the ecu can decide to turn it on since the compressor is on the engine harness and there are other conditions for the a/c coming on besides pin 34 being active.
Now who at toyota decided that almost identical HVAC systems in different cars should send completely opposite signals to the exact same ecu pin on the same type of ecu is really a head scratcher to me.
Not sure if it was just an issue with compatibility or what but yeah no images on my end when trying to view the ac fix thread. Thank you for those links, just what the doctor ordered. These threads are super helpful and informative but older ones more than a couple years run into photo hosting issues and simple stuff that can cripple their usability. Glad you're around to keep it viable. I'll borrow the wife's SLR and snap some photos when the time comes.
I think this is right, if you apply the logic that the common lug "COM" should have power, and the normally open "NO" is connected to the output (the ecu), then the way I drew in the picture below is correct.
The wiring in the other thread and the description above is flipped in that the power goes to "NO" and the switched output is "COM" which would also work and achieve the same thing, just the naming conventions are off.
Fan freaking tastic! Thank you!!! These cars (and Toyota in general) are amazing for making so many things interchangeable. The only glaring wiring faux pas I can see is the wheel well wiring harness...not an issue at stock height with stock width tires but with coilovers and 235s gets a bit rubby.
Were you the originator of this mod, or the first one to organize and present the info? Either way genius move!
There was a guy in hawaii that did a long time ago with a tt ecu, tt ignitor, tt coils, and a front facing intake manifold and posted about it on club na-t.
Not all the details were there though but enough for me to take some guesses and I just trial and error'd the last bits.
Honestly can't say who was the first person to do it, but just the first thing I ever found online about it.
The Supra/SC community especially back then... was not really all that great about sharing info on mods.
Alot of people kept mods to themselves to be faster or provide a service etc.. but still no one was sharing how to do it.
I am in the camp of thinking that we can all share at least the basic stuff, and there is still so much more advanced stuff you can get an edge with.
Before I figured it out for myself it was really frustrating to battle the stock ecu with a safc or other piggyback, so I jumped to a standalone and dropped like 2k at the time with tuning and everything.. but my car wouldn't start as reliably and I would have idle or other issues come up with weather changes.
I wanted a reliable car I could drive to work, not a weekend track car so there was a whole middle ground that seemed missing to me.
Lots of people had the same problem, except not everyone can go standalone and I still wasn't even 80% happy with it so I looked into the tt ecu.
The first time I got it to fire up (with tt coils and ignitor), I was able to go and take it out for a spin.. cause nothing went wrong.
It literally ran better than it had in years and just blew my mind away that no one really knew about this setup.
The real improvement came when I got it working with the vvti coils and vvti ignitor because that solved the whole having to go ffim which can be a pain.
I actually ran vvti coils on the standalone, and only switched to tt coils, tt ignitor and a FFIM to try and get the tt ecu to work.
At that point it was perfect for what most peoples first na-t setups are, so I decided to share the write-up so others can use it.
Then with the help of members on here we figured out how to do it with the stock coil and vvti ignitor, which means there is no reason to run a n/a ecu ever again.
I honestly expected only a handful of people on the forum to appreciate it, as most people are going with gte setups anyways... but I was very wrong.
There are a crazy amount of na-t cars running this mod now.. and so many pages of info over the years I can't even remember half of it, but my favorite part is...
Not seeing all the na-t setups stall when coming to a stop and instead hearing that perfect 2JZ exhaust note
12-01-18, 07:49 AM
Sensors List With Pinouts
