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It's hard to say for sure with this mod. everything has to be working and with used stuff its questionable.
I can say that a majority of the time its a wiring issue, then followed by bad map sensors, and I think there have been a few bad ecus.
If everything was working though and it just randomly started doing that one day, I would think there is a bad connection or wire damage somewhere, or a pin that wasn't fully seated came loose.
As i said earlier, I would check the pins at the ecu again, pull off the connector, remove the yellow cover, remove and check the pins and also the locks, make sure you hear the click when you put the pin in.
how did you install the map sensor, you said you could check the maf connector, normally you remove that and reuse those wires, please don't tell me you used wire taps off the original connector.
you need a really good connection for the map sensor back to the ecu, crimp or solder is about the only right ways to do it.
I remember at least 3 people in this thread somewhere that didn't seat the connector pin correctly, and I have done it myself a few time early on.
I don't think you can fry anything by unplugging the tps or the map sensor, even if the key is on.
its just if you short the signal or power wire to ground, then you have a chance of things getting damaged.
I personally would not bother with rebuilding the ecu. I would find a used working one but your problem could be wiring still.
Ok, so I have a 95 JDM Supra NA Auto.
I did the ECU mod with.
Aristo ECU
Some aftermarket 440CC injectors
TT MAP
DS62 Igniter
Using stock dizzy right now, I have IS coils sitting here but just haven't had the time to wire it up.
New BKR7E plugs.
Universal Denso 1 wire o2 sensor.
Stock block, timing set to 6-7
The car start and idle great but it's running really rich! Like 10s! But when I throw it in D after the car warmed up it will lean out a little bit.
Cruising is between 13-15s, it keep sweeping up and down no matter how steady I keep my gas pedal.
And when I'm in boost it dropped down to 10 at 6psi.
I just want to know if the idle is normal being that low?
Also when I'm getting into boost it feel really laggy and the car lean out but when it get passed around 5PSI, the car screams and pull me back in my seat! Could that be the IM butterfly valve?
Over the last two days, I've helped two guys to get their cars started. They both had neglected to remove the green clip on the harness at the ECU before pushing the additional ignitor pins into the harness.
This, of course, prevented their cars from starting(CEL code 14). Just putting this out there as an additional thing to have guys check when they can't get their cars started.
Remove this before pushing your pins into the harness:
Thanks for the ECU and helping me get my car started 😂
turn it up to 8 degrees and play with the tps position on idle. check for vac leaks, it kind of sounds like a vac leak.
you should be idling around 14.7, fluctuating between like 14.5 and 15, so something is off.
I wouldn't drive it long term idling at 10 afr, its too ruch and you will get gas in your oil and wear your engine.
turn it up to 8 degrees and play with the tps position on idle. check for vac leaks, it kind of sounds like a vac leak.
you should be idling around 14.7, fluctuating between like 14.5 and 15, so something is off.
I wouldn't drive it long term idling at 10 afr, its too ruch and you will get gas in your oil and wear your engine.
My vac lines looks good, I will bump the timing and play with my tps. When I'm driving and stop in (D) it's around 14s
My vac lines looks good, I will bump the timing and play with my tps. When I'm driving and stop in (D) it's around 14s
One thing about your vac lines, you mentioned to me that you have a boost gauge leak, that is connected to the rest of your vac lines so you should fix that.
One thing about your vac lines, you mentioned to me that you have a boost gauge leak, that is connected to the rest of your vac lines so you should fix that.
I did, but still nothing. Only thing left to do now is to play with TPS...
If you are getting the right AFR when its in D, and not in park, its might have to do with the tps but not positive since I have never used this mod with an automatic transmission personally.
when you go to set the timing, do you hear the change in timing when you put the jumper in? you want to make sure its always doing after adjusting the tps.
If you are getting the right AFR when its in D, and not in park, its might have to do with the tps but not positive since I have never used this mod with an automatic transmission personally.
when you go to set the timing, do you hear the change in timing when you put the jumper in? you want to make sure its always doing after adjusting the tps.
I play with my TPS and timing and still nothing...
TPS just threw it out of timing, but it put it back to 8.
So I came across this post just now, and I'm having the same exact issues! He's running Ebay 440cc injectors just like I am and MRMJ4U mentioned about my injector earlier today so that got me thinking if it's the ebay injectors...
That does sound familiar. did you use the knock off ebay injectors?
Bad stuff happens when you use those, I even added a paragraph to the first page a couple years back to warn about those injectors.
Get some real injectors that are Denso and rebuilt. injectors is the last place you want to skimp on a 2jz.
from post 1
Also there are alot of options online for remanufactured injectors that seem to be a good route to try.
search for "2jzge injectors", I have used Oside tiger injectors and they seem to work really well as they rebuild oem injectors here in the US, watch out for other companies that do not rebuild oem ones and use Chinese injectors, they generally do not idle or run properly and are never flow matched. some retailers are getting tricky and selling Chinese injectors on ebay out of california so you think they are legit, but they are just drop shippers so check the description before ordering, be on the lookout and make sure they are actually Denso or Bosch etc... and not knockoffs.
That does sound familiar. did you use the knock off ebay injectors?
Bad stuff happens when you use those, I even added a paragraph to the first page a couple years back to warn about those injectors.
Get some real injectors that are Denso and rebuilt. injectors is the last place you want to skimp on a 2jz.
from post 1
Unfortunately I am because I couldn't find any other ones.
I found some rebuilt Bosch, so I will order those and see what happen.
It's hard to say for sure with this mod. everything has to be working and with used stuff its questionable.
I can say that a majority of the time its a wiring issue, then followed by bad map sensors, and I think there have been a few bad ecus.
If everything was working though and it just randomly started doing that one day, I would think there is a bad connection or wire damage somewhere, or a pin that wasn't fully seated came loose.
As i said earlier, I would check the pins at the ecu again, pull off the connector, remove the yellow cover, remove and check the pins and also the locks, make sure you hear the click when you put the pin in.
how did you install the map sensor, you said you could check the maf connector, normally you remove that and reuse those wires, please don't tell me you used wire taps off the original connector.
you need a really good connection for the map sensor back to the ecu, crimp or solder is about the only right ways to do it.
I remember at least 3 people in this thread somewhere that didn't seat the connector pin correctly, and I have done it myself a few time early on.
I don't think you can fry anything by unplugging the tps or the map sensor, even if the key is on.
its just if you short the signal or power wire to ground, then you have a chance of things getting damaged.
I personally would not bother with rebuilding the ecu. I would find a used working one but your problem could be wiring still.
Ok, my Aristo ECU came in the mail today. I popped it in with fingers crossed, but as soon as I turned the key codes 31 and 41 popped up. Tried to start the car and no go...
First place I went to was the ECU pins. Pulled the yellow cap off and confirmed that everything was tight. The pins that I swapped were just as tight and flush with the female face of the connector as all of the others and wouldn't budge with a bit of a pull on the back.
I am thinking that the issue is potentially with the singal wire where I connected the MAP sensor into the old MAF harness, or somewewhere between there and the ECU. Again, I refer to my recent multimeter readings...
All are MAP Signal to MAP Ground:
@ MAP-
Ignition on, MAP plugged in = 2.70V
Ignition on, MAP unplugged = .14V
@ old MAF Connector-
Ignition on, MAP plugged in = 2.70V
Ignition on, MAP unplugged = .05V
@ ECU-
Igntion on, MAP plugged in = .05V
Ignition on, MAP unplugged = .05V
Here is where I connect my MAP into the MAF. The wires were all pulled out of the connector, then the insulation was pulled back, wires were soldered, then shrink-wrapping was slid over before the wires were popped back into the old MAF connector. I suppose I could have just cut this connector off and wired directly into it but I figured it would prove useful for troubleshooting.
A few notes:
The potentiometer was wired in parallel with the IAT in an attempt to bring the GM IAT in more closely to the factory Toyota IAT specs.
The IAT (and thus potentiometer) both use the brown sensor ground on the left
The black group of wires coming in from the top that says "22 3 C Rotor" houses the three MAP wires-
Red = +5V (connects to MAF Blue/Red)
Green = Ground (connects to MAF brown, with IAT brown and 1-side of POT)
Black = Signal (connects to MAF yellow/green)
Everything here look OK? There is some exposed wire on the MAP signal but it just happened as I cut the heatshrinking off these wires...i'll seal it up before closing them up again.
Hey guys, I'm stuck on my car and I can not figure it out. It runs nice, revs nice, idles pretty decent too. My problem is I can't get the car to go into diagnostic mode so I can set the base timing. No matter how I try to set the tps it does not work. I got a toyobd1 scanner and it does not show any movement for tps. It is a ffim with 90mm and counter clockwise tps. I have wired it both ways and still nothing shows up. I haven't given it a good drive yet but going around the block its smooth as butter. I'm scared to go into boost consider I don't know my timing.
92 sc300
aristo ecu, s360, r154, vvti coilpacks.
08-03-18, 01:47 PM
