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hey ali i have a question about the obd1 tt ecu mod, when you do the mod do you have to reverse the wires on the TPS? i've searched the thread but i didn't see anything about it. Thanx in advance and sorry if it's a dumb question. I also have a front facing manifold and an 80mm throttle body
No, if you have a GE engine harness, you do not have to reverse the wires with the GE TPS.
You only need to flip if you are switching to a GTE tps on a GE engine harness.
So as long as your tps and harness match (both GE or both GTE), you do not have to flip.
So depending on which tps the 80mm throttle body calls for, you may have to flip.
if its like the q45 it normally uses the GE tps so you wouldn't have to flip assuming you still have the GE engine harness.
1zz coils have been done lots of times. each gets power, ground, and IGT signal from ecu. the 4th wire is IGF and you tie all 6 of those together and return to factory ecu IGF so it stays running.
For the tach tap into the IGF signal.
1zz coils have been done lots of times. each gets power, ground, and IGT signal from ecu. the 4th wire is IGF and you tie all 6 of those together and return to factory ecu IGF so it stays running.
For the tach tap into the IGF signal.
so both the tach and igf on the ignitor harness get connected to all 6 igf ouputs from the coils and it will work with my 99 aristo on oem ecu?
I know the IGF will work and yes you connect it to all 6 igf outputs. I think the tach works by connecting it to the IGF but not 100% on the tach.
you will have to also do the resistor bypass for the cluster if you have not done that already.
Hey Guys,
I have a JDM, Supra, 6 Speed, TT ECU for sale. I used it for my TT ECU mod setup. It responds better, has a higher redline and does not require the resistor mod to make AC work.
It works flawlessly. I also have an SAFC Neo, Deatchwerks 550's and an Aristo ECU rebuilt by Tanin as well.
I miss my car and it's broken. I'm going to sell these extra parts until I can fix it :-)
I know the IGF will work and yes you connect it to all 6 igf outputs. I think the tach works by connecting it to the IGF but not 100% on the tach.
you will have to also do the resistor bypass for the cluster if you have not done that already.
The car is a 1999 aristo, with a OEM 2jz-gte vvti. Its not a supra or swapped car with 2jzgte vvti. I think the tach signal on the ignigtor goes to the com port. Worried I might not be able to change gear or get tach display if I do not have output to the tach wire.
Good luck Studio, if I needed one I would grab it off you but I think my next na-t will be a vvti.
92blacktt, if it is an aristo vvti or gte (or both) the cluster will already be set up correctly then so no need for the resistor mod on the cluster, its already done on vvti and gte models.
The tach signal from the ignitor just goes to the cluster, it is only for the cluster.
the ecu gets rpm from the crank signal, and controls the transmission so there won't be any issues there.
basically if you swap them up and wire up the IGF, the only thing that wont work is the tach, but if you try connecting the tach wire by the stock ignitor to the IGF signal it may give you the tach signal back.
Does anyone here have dyno numbers? I'm running 20psi on 550cc injectors with TT headgasket and Apexi NEO AFC and will be heading to the dyno after I'm done with my Torsen LSD swap. I plan to adjust the distributor rotation for optimal but safe power.
The turbo is going to play a large factor in your power numbers, but I would think in the 350-450 range depending on turbo and mods, but if I had to guess I would say a little over 400.
Let us know what the results are, will be interesting to see. I never dyno'd mine but the new owner did and said it was around that same range but I don't know for sure.
I think with the TT headgasket you can set your base timing to 8-10 and be good there. much past that the ecu will start pulling timing and will result in less power overall.
I'm running a Precision 6262 for more low end torque and have the base timing set to 9. My goal is to eventually reach 500whp but I'm not sure how much more boost the NA-T ECU mod can take. What injectors and fuel pump (currently using Walbro 255) do you think it'll take to reach 500whp? I was looking at the Osidetiger 650CC injectors.
I would see how the afr's look and what power its making and go from there. you may be close already.
you could switch to 650's and it would get you there injector wise, but the correction amount will be more vs 550 and can affect how it drives.
you might want to look into a standalone if you plan for 600+ but you will need more fuel mods.
Over the last two days, I've helped two guys to get their cars started. They both had neglected to remove the green clip on the harness at the ECU before pushing the additional ignitor pins into the harness.
This, of course, prevented their cars from starting(CEL code 14). Just putting this out there as an additional thing to have guys check when they can't get their cars started.
Remove this before pushing your pins into the harness:
06-19-18, 06:30 PM
