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2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

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Old 05-21-18, 09:38 AM
  #3586  
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You sure you want to use a s366, that is a pretty large turbo for 440cc injectors unless you plan to upgrade in the future for alot more power.
you could probably do well with a s362 and have better spool.

plugs use BKR7EIX gapped at .032 if using vvti coils. you will only need 3 coil pig tails as they are wasted spark (1 coil for 2 cylinders).
there is no dizzy block off plate, just the metal cap if you want that as you will still be using the base of the dizzy as a cam/crank sensor.
the TB to intake gasket is metal and reusable as long as its not crushed or bent too badly.

if you have the motor out then pull the pan, otherwise it wont really come off in the car too easily at all so just be carefull and flush it out a few times.
union bolt is the is300 one do a search the part number will pop up.
everything else looks mostly correct.
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Old 05-22-18, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Polarisman View Post
Hey all,

I have been piecing together a system for a while--if you have any suggestions or things I am missing please let me know! Trying to make sure I have literally everything I'll need so I can get started on this.

Here's what I currently have on hand, and what I think I'm missing:

........

Thanks!

Matt
Here is my input

HOT SIDE STUFF:
(2) types of oil feed lines - Why two types of feed lines?
(2) types of oil return lines - Why two typed of return lines?
Oil return flange gaskets - Should come with flange
Oil return flange (need to verify this is the right one for OEM location)
Bag of misc. fittings + barbs
Everything oil related should come in a proper oil line kit. Therefore simplifying your oil line shopping list. I got the Boost Lab kit and it is great.

Union bolt (need to verify this is correct) - You can drill and tap your stock union bolt. The IS300 bolt costs like $40 and you will need to re-tap it for NPT. OR you can thread the NPT fitting into the threads that are there, but make sure that you use some good oil resistant PTFE thread sealer. - Drill and Tap Kit
Turbo, WG, and header gaskets + hardware - Is your gate not attached to the manifold via vband clamp? If it does have a vband flange, then you don't need a gasket for that.
Turbo blanket - This is what I purchased
Vacuum line - This is what I purchased

Also purchase some vacuum line clamps if you are like me and don't want to use zip ties

Exhaust manifold, having flanges decked at a machine shop
Fel-pro header gasket
Wastegate + hardware
Flex section for downpipe - Included on some downpipes
Downpipe - I can't remember if your S366 has a 4" Marmon flange or 3" vband, but if it has the Marmon, you can have the 3" vband cut off a normal downpipe and get a 4" marmon welded in it's place. Or you can have a 4" marmon welded to the 3" vband flange.
WG screamer pipe
Downpipe + WG screamer pipe gaskets + hardware - The downpipe is connected via vband clamp and therefore doesn't require a gasket. Screamer pipe, depending on your wastegate, will also connect via vband.
(2) 3" 90 bend (for midpipe)
2" u-j bend pipe (to recirculate WG screamer pipe into exhaust) - I'm going to run an open dump for giggles
(3) rubber exhaust hangers
(3) 3" v-band clamps
2' of 3" exhaust piping
Stainless exhaust hanger
12" x 3" resonator (for midpipe)
If the pipes and hangers and stuff you mention in the few lines above this one are for midpipe, you can buy a Manzo MKIV pipe for $100 and be done with it.
S366 turbo w/oil feed and return flanges/fittings - Should come with your oil line kit
2" flex pipe (for screamer pipe)
​​​​​​
COLD SIDE STUFF:
Manual boost controller + hardware
Ngr type s gov + gasket/hardware
​​​​​Turbo inlet pipe
Vacuum manifold
IC pipe brackets (2)
(5) IC pipes, incl. Bov flange pipe
Fmic w/brackets
60 aluminum bend (extra)
(12) various t bolt clamps
(5) straight couplers, black
(1) 60 coupler, black
(1) 45 coupler, black
(1) 90 coupler, black
Vacuum line for acis bypass (what else needs to be done to accomplish this?) - Not much required here, just run a vacuum line from the acis valve to a vacuum port on the manifold and you have a working acis valve. After deleting the complete EGR system including the canister below the intake manifold, I have mine tee'd into another vacuum line and it runs perfectly. Picture below.



FUEL:
Aem 320lph fuel pump w/hardware, pigtail
Oside 440cc injectors w/plug and play clips - Think of injectors in terms of HP. 440cc injectors will top out at 440HP. That's why Ali said that you should either get a smaller turbo or get bigger injectors. You can run bigger injectors with the GTE ECU using a SAFC or some other type of piggyback ECU. I'm running 500CC oside injectors and using a SAFC to dial back the fuel by 10% to compensate.

​​​​​​IGNITION:
Coil on plug pigtails (6)
DS62 igniter w/pigtail
Plug wires
Dizzy block off plate
Coil on plug coils

ECU/GAUGES/SENSORS/ELECTRICAL:
Iat sensor w/pigtail
Map sensor w/pigtail
4-wire Denso o2 sensor
Arm uego wideband sensor + gauge + hardware
Aristo ecu
(6) ecu pins with 8" wires
Jumper wire for diagnostic terminal, to set timing - IE Large Paperclip
Jumper wire, to jump R109 on gauge cluster to get tach to work - Use some excess ECU wire for this
Miscellaneous 14-20 gauge wire, eps shrink tube, leaded solder
ProSport manual boost gauge - Personally, I chose to stick with one brand and series of gauges. That way my gauges all match... I'm really picky with asthetics. I chose Glowshift 7 Color series because they are lower cost and have pretty good ratings.
I'd also add a Oil Pressure gauge

Maybe get a Timing Light if you don't already have one... $20-30 on Amazon

I think I am still missing the following:
(6) spark plugs (what NGK plug should I use?) - You can't go wrong using the ones that Ali recommended.
Tb to im gasket - Metal, reuse the one you have if it is in good shape
Lower oil pan gasket (Does it make sense to pull lower pan to clean oil return drill shaving residue?) - Lower Oil Pan gasket is FIPG, meaning its a silicone type gasket... I would just flush it out several times, otherwise you'll have to drop the subframe or pull the engine to get that booger out.

Oil return flange + union bolt (if the ones i have aren't the correct ones)
Dual gauge pod of some sort
Flange decking on exhaust manifold, ($80, already listed above)
Air filter, with black coupler and t bolt clamps to attach inlet pipe to turbo (missing from kit, replacement on order already)
Fuel pump plus ac relays (what kind do I need for these? What gauge wire should I use?) - AC Relay=RadioShack SPST .5-Amp 12VDC Reed Relay 275-0233; You probably won't need a fuel pump relay unless you run out of fuel. At your intended power target, you won't run out of fuel.
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Old 05-22-18, 05:22 PM
  #3588  
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Originally Posted by mrmj2u View Post
Here is my input<br /><br />HOT SIDE STUFF:<br />(2) types of oil feed lines -<strong> Why two types of feed lines?</strong><br />(2) types of oil return lines - <strong>Why two typed of return lines?</strong><br />Oil return flange gaskets - <strong>Should come with flange</strong><br />Oil return flange (need to verify this is the right one for OEM location)<br />Bag of misc. fittings + barbs<br /><strong>Everything oil related should come in a proper oil line kit. Therefore simplifying your oil line shopping list. I got the <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/2JZGE-Single-Turbo-Oil-Line-Fitting-Kit-for-Borg-Warner-S300-Turbochargers/221451766997?hash=item338f8dccd5:g:GqsAAOSwWnFWAtvq">Boost Lab kit</a> and it is great.</strong><br /><br />Union bolt (need to verify this is correct) - <strong>You can drill and tap your stock union bolt. The <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-IS300-2001-2005-OEM-Genuine-UNION-BOLT/112844648109?epid=2286860520&amp;hash=item1a4610aead:g:hrwAAOSwtlpamG4E:sc:USPSFirstClass!20032!US!-1">IS300 </a>bolt costs like $40 and you will need to re-tap it for NPT. OR you can thread the NPT fitting into the threads that are there, but make sure that you use some good oil resistant PTFE thread sealer. - <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-27-NPT-Pipe-Tap-Letter-R-Drill-Bit-Kit-EGT-Pyrometer-Gauge-GS-Tap-Kit/350735474564?hash=item51a9769f84:g:7Z8AAOSwoddaXh1E">Drill and Tap Kit</a></strong><br />Turbo, WG, and header gaskets + hardware - <strong>Is your gate not attached to the manifold via vband clamp? If it does have a vband flange, then you don't need a gasket for that.</strong><br />Turbo blanket - <strong><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/T4-Titanium-Turbo-Blanket-Heat-Shield-Turbocharger-Cover-Wrap-Natural-Color-US/302233913598?epid=920629444&amp;hash=item465e8b88fe:g:xKwAAOSwfVpYr-il:sc:USPSFirstClass!20032!US!-1">This is what I purchased</a></strong><br />Vacuum line - <strong><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/SILICONE-VACUUM-HOSE-1-4-6MM-CLEAR-TRANSLUCENT-HI-PERFORMANCE-TURBO-RACING-CU/310626526927?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 ">This is what I purchased</a></strong><br /><br /><strong>Also purchase some <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spring-Action-Hose-Clamps-Fuel-Vacuum-Line-Assortment-70pcs/132440245213?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649">vacuum line clamps</a> if you are like me and don't want to use zip ties</strong><br /><br />Exhaust manifold, having flanges decked at a machine shop<br />Fel-pro header gasket<br />Wastegate + hardware<br />Flex section for downpipe - <strong><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/SS-Downpipe-for-93-98-Toyota-Supra-2JZGT-2JZ-GTE-2-bolt-flange-3-V-band-flange/322847719013?hash=item4b2b393e65:g:OcoAAOSwTmtZ8SNJ">Included on some downpipes</a></strong><br />Downpipe -<strong> I can't remember if your S366 has a 4" Marmon flange or 3" vband, but if it has the Marmon, you can have the 3" vband cut off a normal downpipe and get a 4" marmon welded in it's place. Or you can have a 4" marmon welded to the 3" vband flange.</strong><br />WG screamer pipe<br />Downpipe + WG screamer pipe gaskets + hardware - <strong>The downpipe is connected via vband clamp and therefore doesn't require a gasket. Screamer pipe, depending on your wastegate, will also connect via vband.</strong><br />(2) 3" 90 bend (for midpipe)<br />2" u-j bend pipe (to recirculate WG screamer pipe into exhaust) - <strong>I'm going to run an open dump for giggles</strong><br />(3) rubber exhaust hangers<br />(3) 3" v-band clamps<br />2' of 3" exhaust piping<br />Stainless exhaust hanger<br />12" x 3" resonator (for midpipe)<br /><strong>If the pipes and hangers and stuff you mention in the few lines above this one are for midpipe, you can buy a <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manzo-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Midpipe-Supra-93-98-JZA80-2JZ-GTE-Single-Turbo/380802363511?epid=1042040310&amp;hash=item58a996f077:g:cqcAAOxyGwNTFNK2">Manzo MKIV pipe</a> for $100 and be done with it.</strong><br />S366 turbo w/oil feed and return flanges/fittings -<strong> Should come with your oil line kit</strong><br />2" flex pipe (for screamer pipe)<br />​​​​​​<br />COLD SIDE STUFF:<br />Manual boost controller + hardware<br />Ngr type s gov + gasket/hardware<br />​​​​​Turbo inlet pipe<br />Vacuum manifold<br />IC pipe brackets (2)<br />(5) IC pipes, incl. Bov flange pipe<br />Fmic w/brackets<br />60 aluminum bend (extra)<br />(12) various t bolt clamps<br />(5) straight couplers, black<br />(1) 60 coupler, black<br />(1) 45 coupler, black<br />(1) 90 coupler, black<br />Vacuum line for acis bypass (what else needs to be done to accomplish this?) - <strong>Not much required here, just run a vacuum line from the acis valve to a vacuum port on the manifold and you have a working acis valve. After deleting the complete EGR system including the canister below the intake manifold, I have mine tee'd into another vacuum line and it runs perfectly. Picture below.</strong><br /><br /><img src="https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/467x448/acis_a3510f4590f4f7f3be32ff176f1568726dc448ba.jpg"/><br /><br />FUEL:<br />Aem 320lph fuel pump w/hardware, pigtail<br />Oside 440cc injectors w/plug and play clips - <strong>Think of injectors in terms of HP. 440cc injectors will top out at 440HP. That's why Ali said that you should either get a smaller turbo or get bigger injectors. You can run bigger injectors with the GTE ECU using a SAFC or some other type of piggyback ECU. I'm running 500CC oside injectors and using a SAFC to dial back the fuel by 10% to compensate.</strong><br /><br />​​​​​​IGNITION:<br />Coil on plug pigtails (6)<br />DS62 igniter w/pigtail<br />Plug wires<br />Dizzy block off plate<br />Coil on plug coils<br /><br />ECU/GAUGES/SENSORS/ELECTRICAL:<br />Iat sensor w/pigtail<br />Map sensor w/pigtail<br />4-wire Denso o2 sensor<br />Arm uego wideband sensor + gauge + hardware<br />Aristo ecu<br />(6) ecu pins with 8" wires<br />Jumper wire for diagnostic terminal, to set timing - <strong>IE Large Paperclip </strong><br />Jumper wire, to jump R109 on gauge cluster to get tach to work - <strong>Use some excess ECU wire for this</strong><br />Miscellaneous 14-20 gauge wire, eps shrink tube, leaded solder<br />ProSport manual boost gauge - <strong>Personally, I chose to stick with one brand and series of gauges. That way my gauges all match... I'm really picky with asthetics. I chose Glowshift 7 Color series because they are lower cost and have pretty good ratings.<br />I'd also add a Oil Pressure gauge</strong><br /><strong>Maybe get a Timing Light if you don't already have one... $20-30 on Amazon</strong><br /><br />I think I am still missing the following:<br />(6) spark plugs (what NGK plug should I use?) - <strong>You can't go wrong using the ones that Ali recommended. </strong><br />Tb to im gasket - <strong>Metal, reuse the one you have if it is in good shape</strong><br />Lower oil pan gasket (Does it make sense to pull lower pan to clean oil return drill shaving residue?) - <strong>Lower Oil Pan gasket is FIPG, meaning its a silicone type gasket... I would just flush it out several times, otherwise you'll have to drop the subframe or pull the engine to get that booger out.</strong><br /><br />Oil return flange + union bolt (if the ones i have aren't the correct ones)<br />Dual gauge pod of some sort<br />Flange decking on exhaust manifold, ($80, already listed above)<br />Air filter, with black coupler and t bolt clamps to attach inlet pipe to turbo (missing from kit, replacement on order already)<br />Fuel pump plus ac relays (what kind do I need for these? What gauge wire should I use?) - <strong>AC Relay=RadioShack SPST .5-Amp 12VDC Reed Relay 275-0233; You probably won't need a fuel pump relay unless you run out of fuel. At your intended power target, you won't run out of fuel.</strong>
<br /><br />The list of stuff above is a list of the stuff I already have. Most of it related to the turbo hardware was what was included in the xs-power kit that I bought. They send all sorts of extra fittings, gaskets etc and not all of them are needed. Im making my own midpipe out of vibrant exhaust components. I had most of them already so I decided on that route. The WG pipe has a 4 bolt flange on one end and the WG and dp do not currently have flex sections but I will be adding them on both to reduce stress. <br /><br />Ali suggested running a separate fuel pump relay to be able to run a heavier gauge power wire and allow the fuel pump ecu do its job instead of working around it with the traditional 12v mod. Should I be using the same part number relay for this as the ac relay? <br /><br />I can't wait to hear those sweet sutututu noises from the s366.
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Old 05-26-18, 06:17 PM
  #3589  
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Any word on what relay to use for the fuel pump? I just ordered the RadioShack relay for the ac system. Really getting down to the nitty gritty here, also ordered the plugs and pump/tank gasket but will forego the tb to Im gasket per your recommendations.

​​​​​​Anyone else who has any last minute parts or suggestions, please let me know...As far as I'm concerned I think I'm all done buying parts!

Thanks!

Matt
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Old 06-08-18, 08:22 AM
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Took it out for its first drives and it feels great... until it hits 5psi. Once I hit 5psi, it cuts out completely. Doesnt matter what gear Im in. AFR is between 11-12 when I hit 5psi. This has to be an ECU issue. Im running the GTE ECU mod. Any thoughts?

Additional information:
- VVTI Coils
- Stock MAP sensor
- Aristo ECU w/ SAFC
- DS62 Igniter
- GM IAT
- NGK BKR7EIX gapped at .032
- 500cc Oside injectors
- Denso 280lph Fuel pump

Car drives perfectly off boost.

EDIT: Its boosting to 10 psi now. I think Im washing out my spark now though. It feels like its missing.

Last edited by mrmj2u; 06-09-18 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 06-14-18, 11:00 PM
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Hey guys, so after years of slowly working on my car here and there i started it up for the first time on the na tt ecu mod. I have a few questions. On my iac flange there is a vacuum nipple under the flange. What am i supposed to connect that to. A filter or to vacuum. Also my fan was spinning at full speed the whole time and did not stop. My car has always had a problem with the ignition switch. It doesnt crank, I have the starter hooked up to my own switch with relay which i dont mind but my cluster lights are off and wont turn on. Ive checked all under fender wires, i even switched to gte ecu, I redid most of my engine harness, swapped to 98 cluster. I changed all relays in fusebox, but yesterday when cranking for oil pressure I pulled the efi fuse out and noticed the cluster lights turned on. For 3 years I havnt figured it out. only thing i havnt changed is the ignition switch in the car. Im going to be back with some more questions soon.
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Old 06-15-18, 11:20 AM
  #3592  
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Originally Posted by mrmj2u View Post
Took it out for its first drives and it feels great... until it hits 5psi. Once I hit 5psi, it cuts out completely. Doesnt matter what gear Im in. AFR is between 11-12 when I hit 5psi. This has to be an ECU issue. Im running the GTE ECU mod. Any thoughts?

Additional information:
- VVTI Coils
- Stock MAP sensor
- Aristo ECU w/ SAFC
- DS62 Igniter
- GM IAT
- NGK BKR7EIX gapped at .032
- 500cc Oside injectors
- Denso 280lph Fuel pump

Car drives perfectly off boost.

EDIT: Its boosting to 10 psi now. I think Im washing out my spark now though. It feels like its missing.
5psi is the point my car goes into dump fuel mode. Maybe your filter is clogged or there's something wrong with the fuel pump. Did you do the 12 volt fuel pump mod? bypass the fuel pump ecu
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Old 06-15-18, 11:31 AM
  #3593  
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Originally Posted by scsexy View Post
5psi is the point my car goes into dump fuel mode. Maybe your filter is clogged or there's something wrong with the fuel pump. Did you do the 12 volt fuel pump mod? bypass the fuel pump ecu
My fuel pump ecu has been bypassed... Maybe it's my fuel filter...
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Old 06-15-18, 01:50 PM
  #3594  
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you could be running rich with the 500's and the fuel pump so its washing out the spark when you get into real boost.
the ecu does have a tendency to hold stoich 14.7 until a few psi and then richen up very fast around 5psi and more or less all in by 12psi.
You can try bringing the gap down to .026-.028 and see if it helps. or you can pull out some fuel with a controller.

what is it doing when it cuts out? you might just have a 10 psi spring in the wastegate and it could be normal.
without a manual boost controller, you will get some boost creep and it could seem like its missing when its just trying to hold the gate's boost level.
the manual boost controller will help with boost creep even if set to the same as the wastegate psi.
you can usually tell if you are washing out the spark cause you will get the more often than not fuel combusting in the exhaust sound/pops like a backfire.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-15-18 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 06-15-18, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
you could be running rich with the 500's and the fuel pump so its washing out the spark when you get into real boost.
the ecu does have a tendency to hold stoich 14.7 until a few psi and then richen up very fast around 5psi and more or less all in by 12psi.
You can try bringing the gap down to .026-.028 and see if it helps. or you can pull out some fuel with a controller.

what is it doing when it cuts out? you might just have a 10 psi spring in the wastegate and it could be normal.
without a manual boost controller, you will get some boost creep and it could seem like its missing when its just trying to hold the gate's boost level.
the manual boost controller will help with boost creep even if set to the same as the wastegate psi.
you can usually tell if you are washing out the spark cause you will get the more often than not fuel combusting in the exhaust sound/pops like a backfire.
I installed a MBC, set it at 15PSI and drove it around a bit. When I hit 10PSI, I get a backfire sound and the car feels like the engine has been cut off completely. It isn't very fun. I do have the wastegate spring set at 10PSI. I thought that maybe I had the MBC connected backward, but after looking again, it is connected correctly.

For now, I can't drive the car as the rear water hose (heater core to back of the head) has given up and is leaking terribly. New hose will be here on Monday, I'll change it out then.
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Old 06-15-18, 03:55 PM
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you could also be hitting stock boost cut, it is around 14 psi at sea level. it will cut all engine power, rpms will drop and it will blink the check engine light at you a few times. this is normal and you can get a pop when it happens.
If it sounds like its still trying to go but can't due to continuous misses then that could be washing out the spark.
if your check engine light works then you will know if its stock boost cut or not.
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Old 06-16-18, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
you could also be hitting stock boost cut, it is around 14 psi at sea level. it will cut all engine power, rpms will drop and it will blink the check engine light at you a few times. this is normal and you can get a pop when it happens.
If it sounds like its still trying to go but can't due to continuous misses then that could be washing out the spark.
if your check engine light works then you will know if its stock boost cut or not.
My CEL works, but its not flashing after a pull so its not boost cut. After replacing the water pipe and driving it today, I noted that it sputters once the boost hits 8-10 mark. Gonna try to take it to the tuner next weekend. Will report back afterward.
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Old 06-17-18, 09:03 AM
  #3598  
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Probably too much fuel then. try gapping down but if you are swapping ecu's then its not a big deal as tuner will tune the fuel.
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Old 06-18-18, 01:36 AM
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Got a quick question, but for us 1zz coil pack users that lose our tach signal, is it possible to wire in diodes for the fire signal to our coils and then batch them after the diodes to run to the factory ignitor so it can produce a tach signal for the cluster??
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Old 06-18-18, 10:48 AM
  #3600  
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I do not think that will work with the stock ignitor. it uses the energy from the actual firing of the coils to generate the IGF signal which is basically the tach signal, so without actually firing off coils I am not sure the ignitor will actually put out a tach signal. the DS 62 might though cause they work a little bit differently.

The 1ZZ coils put out a IGF signal though, so connect that to the tach instead and it should work just fine. if you haven't done the resistor bypass on the cluster you will probably need to do that also.
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