99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Buy a bigger and better pump and you will be set for a long time and you won't really have to worry about pump till you hit about 650-700.
Drop a bosch in the tank, they are the best pump out there, with 550 or 620cc injectors you will be set to go.
I am running the stock fuel rail, just run you own relay and wires for the fuel pump.
Right now it will install a 7 psi spring in the gate or maybe 10 and just run it of the WG spring for now till you get the HG.

400HP if u have tc issues, you need better tires imo.

You can't deck the block w/o pulling the pistons and crank out and i dont really thing it's worth all that trouble just make sure it's smoove , clean and he will be fine.

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm just running Cheap Khuma's. They last pretty well and I'm not drag racing...

No definitely don't need to deck the block or mill the head. DO NOT use any abrasive wheels on the head. I don't know if this is the correct way to do it, but I first used a sharp razor to carefully scrape the old gasket material, then I used a long sanding block and I think a 600 grit wet sand. My previous attempts with just scraping and cleaning failed. I also used a light coat of copper spray, though there are mixed opinions on that too. Just make sure it's really clean and smooth - like this:

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah if the motor hasn't been overheated, you can pretty much clean the surface and install new HG w/ studs.

Six sense thats great news its running well. 16 psi you must have been just under boost cut. turn it down a little bit and enjoy it till you upgrade.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Careful with not having at least the head machined.. I recently chose not to because the head looked great and only had a .001 variation... Needless to say, put it back together and immediately had coolant in the oil... took it back apart, had it surfaced, put it back together and has been fine since...

I also had to have the block surfaced - there was significant pitting around the #5 and #6 cylinders.

SixSense

Thanks guys and yea ali thats what im gonna do im going to freshen up my spare engine with new rings and bearings etc... and put it back together with tt hg and arp's think im gonna paint the bay while im in there this time...

On another note im not sure if my wg is opening or not the flange i bolted it to did not have the little groove in it that the wg sits in not sure if its leaking or not sealing anybody know how i can test this?

And what port did you guys run you boost controller to top or side?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Side of the WG to the compressor housing!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes use the side one, If you have it just connected to the top port it probably won't work right.
and that flange with the seat has to be facing the right way or the waste gate won't operate properly either.

are you not hitting boost cut? it just goes to 16 psi just fine?
I think im gonna go turn up the boost some and see where it happens.
I also got the motorolla 2.5 bar map sensor sitting here, I promise I will get around to testing it, right now I am still working on getting my new garage situated for some wrenching sessions.

So it sounds like you can get to 14 psi on stock compression with the TT ecu just fine.
for an additional safety net on stock compression, you can set your base timing to 6-8 degrees instead of 10, you will loose a little power but its nothing crazy.
In fact I recommend starting at around 8 degrees base timing, and if it pulls fine, then go up to 10.

SixSense

Yea man it gets up there with no problem my brother was sitting there watching the boost guage i think i heard the car say "gimme more" haha

And yea the seat is facing the opposite direction so thats why the freakin thing is free boosting i told my welder to have the flange facing out but nooo people dnt listen o well guess im gonna have to cut and reweld and that means taking of the mani man i didnt feel like doing this right now that thing was a pain to get on...

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you should just be able to unbolt the wastegate and flip the flange around.
There is hardly any space even when working from underneath, so yeah removing it may be less pain in the longrun.

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

Maybe that was the root cause? My head was .006" (right at the limit in the FSM) warped and it's been fine for well over a year.

SixSense

Flip the flange meaning cut and reweld right?

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

I can't see how the wastegate would be welded to anything. It should bolt to the exhaust manifold, and then bolt to the dump tube which may be welded to the downpipe, or open atmosphere.

I'm still confused as to how you know something is flipped. I assumed you meant the plate that bolts to the wastegate that has the valve seat.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yes I think he is talking about the plate with the valve seat but it is not welded to anything.
the flange for the wastegate is welded to the manifold obviously.
then the plate with the valve seat sits between the wastegate and the manifold flange.
The wategate and the plate inbetween is bolted down to the flange.
you need to unbolt it, pull the flange out and flip it around, and bolt it back down.... if its the wrong way of course.

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

So I wired in the ECU and MAP yesterday and tried to fire it up with the GE ignition. BOOM there was fire everywhere! My garage and two other cars are gone now.

J/K, there's an occasional spark coming out of the coil, but not even a pop from the motor. The ECU throws a code 14 for ignition reference signal. I saw the edit saying the GE ignition system may not work, but thought I'd try.

My situation may be unique as my car is OBDI, but the engine is a 96, so it has a crank position sensor on the oil pump. I was thinking about running it to the 7 & 27 pins on the ECU for the NE signal.

Opinions?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Ok I will try and break it down for you whats going on, plus I have been doing more thinking on the GE ignition subject.

reason there is an IGF CEL Code, is because the reference levels of the 2 ignitors are completely different when it comes to the return signal. This is evidenced by the tach signal also not working when changing the ignitors, without having to do the resistor mod on the tach. The tach signal is basically very similar to the IGF signal, so my guess would be to get the stock ignition to work, a similar resistor like the one in the cluster needs to be added to the IGF signal. of course this is just one of my many theories that I have no idea if it would work but it makes more sense to me when I think AEM ignores the IGF signal completely, they probably do it because it varies too much from system to system and isn't necessary.
Unfortunately for the TT ecu, it wants it and looks for it continuously. it just freaks out when it sees the wrong voltage on there because its tuned for coilpacks.
I am pretty sure one can apply the teachings of the cluster to the IGF signal as well to bring it to the right level, I think its possible with the right resistor.
If you want to give it a shot its up to you, i will be around to help.

everything going to the ecu is perfect, no need to rewire, unless you want to delete the ditributor completely, which then you would need to weld 2 cam sensors to the head (standalones need just 1) and use at least a TT intake cam, or use a TT head/cams obviously which has the spots on it.
The VVti 2jzge head only has 1 cam sensor spot, so unless you have a standalone, you will need at least 2 cam sensors plus you have to delete vvti its not the best route to go distributorless with this ecu. best bet is a tt head or modifying your own.