2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod - Page 232 - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

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SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

Old 11-10-17, 12:10 PM
  #3466  
Ali SC3
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what do you mean between the throttle body and vsv? pic? alot of the ports of the throttle body do not have full time vacuum cause they are "ported".
to be safe put a Tee in the small line for the fuel pressure regulator, and put the map sensor vac line to the T end.
I had the best results with my map sensor here, until I went FFIM then I had the map sensor reading from the middle of the plenum.

I have seen surging like that from map sensor reading too high (not seeing full vacuum at idle due to using a ported port), from a large vacuum leak, timing too advanced, and especially the tps position.

It may be hard to tell if the engine changes note when you put the jumper in when its surging like that, normally it will idle decent enough to be able to tell which makes me suspect the map sensor reading. mark the original spot of the tps before playing with it so you don't get too lost adjusting it.
the map sensor being off is the most likely culprit as I can hear it missing on several cylinders, normally the tps out will just cause surging and not so much the missing.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 11-10-17 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 11-10-17, 01:21 PM
  #3467  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
what do you mean between the throttle body and vsv? pic? alot of the ports of the throttle body do not have full time vacuum cause they are "ported".
to be safe put a Tee in the small line for the fuel pressure regulator, and put the map sensor vac line to the T end.
I had the best results with my map sensor here, until I went FFIM then I had the map sensor reading from the middle of the plenum.

I have seen surging like that from map sensor reading too high (not seeing full vacuum at idle due to using a ported port), from a large vacuum leak, timing too advanced, and especially the tps position.

It may be hard to tell if the engine changes note when you put the jumper in when its surging like that, normally it will idle decent enough to be able to tell which makes me suspect the map sensor reading. mark the original spot of the tps before playing with it so you don't get too lost adjusting it.
the map sensor being off is the most likely culprit as I can hear it missing on several cylinders, normally the tps out will just cause surging and not so much the missing.
Ali, THANK YOU!! The MAP vacuum tap was indeed in a bad position. Once I put it between the fuel regulator and the intake manifold, it started and ran very smoothly! I hooked up the timing light and set the timing to about 6*. Now I値l conmect the 4 wire O2 and be done with it until I bolt the turbo on. Thanks again Ali!

187: I also checked the TPS and it was in a good spot.
Attached Thumbnails 2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod-0b847ec7-c746-4994-8e69-5920bc7a417b.jpeg  

Last edited by mrmj2u; 11-12-17 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 11-13-17, 08:28 AM
  #3468  
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glad it worked out. you can probably go closer to 8 degrees especially without the turbo.
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Old 11-13-17, 10:19 AM
  #3469  
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
glad it worked out. you can probably go closer to 8 degrees especially without the turbo.
I値l make that change. I have a feeling that my MAP sensor is bad, sometimes the car runs smoothly and other times it runs rough.
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Old 11-13-17, 02:41 PM
  #3470  
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it'll probably improve once you get the o2 sensor working, or if you are still on the factory non heated once it warms up. if not there may be another issue or could be due o the 500cc injectors and too much fuel at times.
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Old 11-13-17, 02:44 PM
  #3471  
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The O2 sensor is installed and there is no longer a code 21. Hopefully it’ll be fixed with another MAP, otherwise I’ll have to buy a SAFC.
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Old 11-15-17, 03:47 PM
  #3472  
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Been lurking for a few weeks since I bought my SC and already ordered my turbo kit from Whifbitz so I am waiting for that. It’s a 1993 so it’s OBD1 and it auto as well. I was looking into getting the mapecu3 but with all the negatives I decided maybe this route is better. The only concern is the torque converter lock up issue. I’ve read through more than 50+ pages and just want a clear answer. Did the fix for the lock up work that was posted on page 170ish or no? I think I may have read that it didn’t work.
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Old 11-16-17, 05:52 AM
  #3473  
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Also for the nat auto guys wouldn’t it be easier to swap in a ge ecu so auto controls are there and you get the map/iat. This would be easier to tune rather than a kvf maf with a piggyback. Just something I have been wondering.
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Old 11-19-17, 12:20 PM
  #3474  
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Hoping you guys can help me out here. I'm having some issues with my NA-t after boosting it. Its a vvti 2jzge running a JDM vvti 2jzgte ecu and maf and map sensor.
Heres my set up:
walbro 255 pump, return style fuel pressure regualtor set at about 42 psi right now, also rises 1:1 with boost ( vacuum line from intake to regulator), 420cc high impedance injectors, 2jzgte ecu, maf sensor (pre turbo with a 3" tube, its also a very short intake pipe), no bov at the moment, so doesnt affect my issue but it will be vented to atmosphere.

All of my AFR's are normal except for when i let off the throttle. At idle im at around 14, under load at wot im around 11, then when i let off the throttle ( weather i let off at wot or just cruising speed) the AFR's go to 10.0 and will stay there until i touch the throttle again. If i dont touch the throttle it just holds steady at 10.0 and i can see smoke coming my exhaust like im just dumping raw gas. After i touch the gas they go to 16+ which i think is what should happen right after i let off the throttle. This also causes my engine to stall when coming to a stop.
It didnt do this before i was boosted, and it also does this with the ge ecu installed. I checked all my connections with soapy water to look for an air leak but i coudnt find anything.
My left valve cover hose ( i beleive is the crankcase breather) just has a filter on it, and my right valve cover hose (pcv vavle) is routed to the intake manifild just like it would in a stock application.
All the stock vacuum lines, including the one to the fuel rail, are still hooked up as if it was NA still. Do i need to re route some of these or are these not related to my issue?

My wastegate sensor line is also hooked up to the compressor housing, if that makes a difference.

I'm not sure what is goin on, does anyone have any ideas?
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Old 11-20-17, 04:53 AM
  #3475  
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Originally Posted by Mckillip16 View Post
Hoping you guys can help me out here. I'm having some issues with my NA-t after boosting it. Its a vvti 2jzge running a JDM vvti 2jzgte ecu and maf and map sensor.
Heres my set up:
walbro 255 pump, return style fuel pressure regualtor set at about 42 psi right now, also rises 1:1 with boost ( vacuum line from intake to regulator), 420cc high impedance injectors, 2jzgte ecu, maf sensor (pre turbo with a 3" tube, its also a very short intake pipe), no bov at the moment, so doesnt affect my issue but it will be vented to atmosphere.

All of my AFR's are normal except for when i let off the throttle. At idle im at around 14, under load at wot im around 11, then when i let off the throttle ( weather i let off at wot or just cruising speed) the AFR's go to 10.0 and will stay there until i touch the throttle again. If i dont touch the throttle it just holds steady at 10.0 and i can see smoke coming my exhaust like im just dumping raw gas. After i touch the gas they go to 16+ which i think is what should happen right after i let off the throttle. This also causes my engine to stall when coming to a stop.
It didnt do this before i was boosted, and it also does this with the ge ecu installed. I checked all my connections with soapy water to look for an air leak but i coudnt find anything.
My left valve cover hose ( i beleive is the crankcase breather) just has a filter on it, and my right valve cover hose (pcv vavle) is routed to the intake manifild just like it would in a stock application.
All the stock vacuum lines, including the one to the fuel rail, are still hooked up as if it was NA still. Do i need to re route some of these or are these not related to my issue?

My wastegate sensor line is also hooked up to the compressor housing, if that makes a difference.

I'm not sure what is goin on, does anyone have any ideas?
Maybe check your maf sensor. Maybe your blowoff is dumping air and confusing it. That's what happened to my car b4 going map at least. Otherwise is say check your Throttle position sensor and throttle cable routing make sure its all good.
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Old 11-20-17, 12:15 PM
  #3476  
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I'm not currently running a BOV so I don't think that is my issue. Although when I install one it's just gonna make the issue worse because It's gonna vent to the atmosphere. As for the maf being bad, is there anyway to test it? I could swap back to my ge maf but I don't really wanna repin my plug again.

The tps and throttle cable hasn't been touched since I went NA-t and it never did it before so I don't think that is the issue..
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Old 11-25-17, 10:43 AM
  #3477  
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Hey guys, wanted to bounce something off of you.

My ECU swap is complete, it runs great just after the ECU has been reset. After three start ups and about 10 miles of driving, it starts to surge and won’t rev past 2500 RPMs; at this point, I also get a CEL code 14 (but the engine still runs and can be driven home in a 'limp mode') . This tells me that the issue is not mechanical, but instead it is something that is happening after the ECU has ‘learned’ the car. I am running 500cc Injectors, which could be causing the car to run way too rich.

Do any of you think I should just buy a SAFC, or is this an issue that another ECU or ECU rebuild would fix?

Last edited by mrmj2u; 11-26-17 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 12-04-17, 11:29 AM
  #3478  
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A quick update on my car... I installed a wide band and a SAFC.

The real issue was that the connections at the ECU were loose. I used quick splice connectors, which I致e had success with in the past. The new quick splice connectors that are available at Advance or Auto Zone are different and do not seem to make appropriate contact. I found this while installing the SAFC. The connection works but then if you move the wires a bit, they stop making contact ala a short. I took all of them off and soldered the connections instead.

The code 14 went away immediately, the idle is very good. Thanks again Ali for all your help.

One other thing that I noticed, when engine braking, my AFR goes up to 20+, should I be concerned? I知 thinking no since I知 not pressing the gas at all. As soon as I take the car out of gear, it bounces back to idle AFR.
Attached Thumbnails 2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod-33787f20-93e5-4e8d-9817-21f87202218c.jpeg  

Last edited by mrmj2u; 12-05-17 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 12-05-17, 05:39 AM
  #3479  
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Originally Posted by mrmj2u View Post
A quick update on my car... I installed a wide band and a SAFC.

The real issue was that the connections at the ECU were loose. I used quick splice connectors, which I致e had success with in the past. The new quick splice connectors that are available at Advance or Auto Zone are different and do not seem to make appropriate contact. I found this while installing the SAFC. The connection works but then if you move the wires a bit, they stop making contact ala a short. I took all of them off and soldered the connections instead.

The code 14 went away immediately, the idle is very good. Thanks again Ali for all your help.

One other thing that I noticed, when engine braking, my AFR goes up to 20+, should I be concerned? I知 thinking no since I知 not pressing the gas at all. As soon as I take the car out of gear, it bounces back to idle AFR.
You are correct AFR 20+ during engine braking is fine as the ECU cuts almost all fuel and the momentum of the car is drawing a vacuum in your engine. Before installing TT ECU I verified my normal AFR through different ranges of engine (idle, accel, deccel, etc) by hooking up a AEM O2 wideband in my stock exhaust. Once you're out of gear the IACV opens up and ECU starts to inject some fuel thus normalizing AFR.
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Old 12-05-17, 07:37 AM
  #3480  
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Originally Posted by shajbot View Post
You are correct AFR 20+ during engine braking is fine as the ECU cuts almost all fuel and the momentum of the car is drawing a vacuum in your engine. Before installing TT ECU I verified my normal AFR through different ranges of engine (idle, accel, deccel, etc) by hooking up a AEM O2 wideband in my stock exhaust. Once you're out of gear the IACV opens up and ECU starts to inject some fuel thus normalizing AFR.
Thank you for your confirmation.

I feel kinda sick since I wasted about a month troubleshooting this issue and purchasing additional parts when the real issue was the connections.

To think, I found the issue because I was messing with the ECU while the engine was running. This is something that I NEVER do, nor do I recommend it. I normally disconnect all power to the car before touching the ECU or its wiring...
Attached Thumbnails 2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod-20jbct.jpg  

Last edited by mrmj2u; 12-05-17 at 08:01 AM.
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