2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod - Page 227 - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion


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2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

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Old 05-15-17, 09:38 AM   #3391
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jump the right resistor depending on year and make sure the right wire is hooked up for the tach on the ignitor. that should be all that you need to get it to work.
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Old 05-24-17, 07:23 AM   #3392
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Just wanted to post an update on the usdm ecu, its still bad so far but I did pass inspection again this year. I am still currently driving on it because I miss the backfires and for some reason the usdm ecu like rev matching where the jdm doesn't.

Either way still going strong.
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Old 05-25-17, 10:30 AM   #3393
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Good to know, thanks for the update. So whats the US ecu doing now that is off still? still find it odd that it runs so differently on the US and JDM setups.
I wonder if most states even care about the obd2 working or not if it passes the rollers, I used to think it had to work but maybe not if it passes the sniffer, may be worth checking with your local place.
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Old 05-26-17, 10:29 AM   #3394
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Basically the stock tune for the map ecu is not correct at all for whatever reason. With the stock map I'm at -20% short term fuel trim at idle which causes all kinds of weird behavior when you actually start moving. My county doesn't do any emissions testing so no rollers or anything not even a visual inspection on the cats, they just plug it in and do the normal inspection on lights ect. I'm pretty sure I would fail all of those emissions tests as it sits currently.

I'm still playing with the fuel under 0 PSI to see if I can dial the trim into a reasonable area, but it requires a decent amount of time driving, adjusting and then resetting fully with a cold engine. I also need to ditch the OBD2 IACV, neither ecu likes it and the OBD1 IAVC performs much better all around.
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Old 06-04-17, 01:12 AM   #3395
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Basically the stock tune for the map ecu is not correct at all for whatever reason. With the stock map I'm at -20% short term fuel trim at idle which causes all kinds of weird behavior when you actually start moving. My county doesn't do any emissions testing so no rollers or anything not even a visual inspection on the cats, they just plug it in and do the normal inspection on lights ect. I'm pretty sure I would fail all of those emissions tests as it sits currently.

I'm still playing with the fuel under 0 PSI to see if I can dial the trim into a reasonable area, but it requires a decent amount of time driving, adjusting and then resetting fully with a cold engine. I also need to ditch the OBD2 IACV, neither ecu likes it and the OBD1 IAVC performs much better all around.
Oh boy I think I might be in for a treat lol. I'm another soul who has a 97 (1/120) 5 speed with a 97 TT 6 speed ECU on the way. Got the ECU for a really good deal and I have access to a few junk yards in my areas if I need any igniters or coils I always run into. I will continue to follow this thread and maybe comment more once I find that the USDM is a lot closer to being fully dialed in. I know there has to be a way for the USDM ECU to run smoothly. I also live in smog **** state. I could just go the easy route and pay someone for smog but I'd like to try to make this work as well for the US people who want something a little more legit. Btw 187 did you just pop in your USDM ecu for smog then switch back to the JDM one after? Do you need to switch anything else out when switching ECU or was that it? In the meantime 187 and Ali I will continue reading on.
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Old 06-04-17, 07:37 AM   #3396
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You have to move 2 pins when swapping in my case running a map ecu2. There are still a few things people could try to make it work such as trying a FFIM for instance. Basically I've tried a know working setup for BPU supras and it's not happy at all, but the JDM ecu is near perfect when you factor out the MAF.

If you only need to pass smog and they don't plug in your car or anything I would stay away from the USDM ECU. If you try to use the USDM ecu with cats on the car I think you will have a bad time when the ecu dumps fuel into the catalytic converter.
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Old 06-05-17, 07:47 AM   #3397
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Oh boy I think I might be in for a treat lol. I'm another soul who has a 97 (1/120) 5 speed with a 97 TT 6 speed ECU on the way. Got the ECU for a really good deal and I have access to a few junk yards in my areas if I need any igniters or coils I always run into.
I myself am a budget builder and I do my best to control funds, ignitors I rarely see fail, but coils, they are simply too cheap and are exposed to a pretty extreme environment to buy used. I'm saying this as friendly advice.

As always best regards on your builds.
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Old 06-05-17, 10:11 AM   #3398
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Yeah go in and ask if it just has to pass the rollers or whatnot. sometimes even if it doesn't connect via obd2 if it runs clean then they will pass it and just advise you to fix the obd2.
Its worth going and talking to the manager at the emission station they will be the ones who can tell you for sure in your state.

If it needs to connect and pass rollers, usdm ecu is the only way to go really or a n/a ecu with a piggyback.
I think if you spent enough time dialing in the tune you could get it passable... but its alot more involved than using a jdm ecu and scaling for injectors.

I am thinking another reason the usdm tune is more off is cause of the larger cam the usdm models use stock.
I didn't used to think it was that much of a difference, but at idle my brothers 2jzgte supra sounds much meaner than my na-t ever did, the sound of the cam difference is really noticeable at idle.
I would try taking a couple more degrees off via the distributor like the 6-8 base timing range.
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Old 06-06-17, 03:34 PM   #3399
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Just an update on the Audi for those who were following, its registered and hitting the streets!!!

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Old 06-16-17, 03:07 AM   #3400
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Default AEM 30-1101 on is300

Hi Ali so I had a quick question, sorry if im off topic but i tried everything befor i came on the thread. I'm new to the 2jz world and so enjoying it. I couldn't really find a direct answer on the Aem v1 30-1101 being used on an is300. Is it possible? I seen as you were showing a couple diagrams on the coil pack and plugs being wired it showed that it was originally for the aem unit. So is it possible to run the aem v1 ems 30-1101 on my vvti 2jzge na-t 2002 is300??I ask because I spent alot of money on the unit and would like an answer from someone with your knowledge b4 I lose money on it. THANK YOU for any input you can give.
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Old 06-16-17, 07:11 AM   #3401
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you can use it but you will need to make a custom jumper harness as it does not plug into a vvti harness. you can also use a non vvti harness and modify the engine side to work.
you will need to add wiresfor vvti, coilpacks, and the cam and crank sensor setup is different.
ideally you would want to use a vvti specific ecu to make it easier, but it could be done just alot more work.
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Old 06-16-17, 02:18 PM   #3402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
you can use it but you will need to make a custom jumper harness as it does not plug into a vvti harness. you can also use a non vvti harness and modify the engine side to work.
you will need to add wiresfor vvti, coilpacks, and the cam and crank sensor setup is different.
ideally you would want to use a vvti specific ecu to make it easier, but it could be done just alot more work.
so are you saying the easiest way would be to take a non vvti harness cut the ecu ends off and mate it with my vvti harness?? or just use the non vvti harness and add coil pack wires? wich way would you do it, if you were gonna do it lol. I have both harness at disposal. I actually have to vvti harnesses to play with. And for now to get my car running na-t for the mean time I just got my jdm aristo ecu in and 440cc injectors, usdm map sensor e ct. quick question Ali, do you think the precision 6766 bb is to much for the 440'S even at low boost? it's a t4 .68ar with a 3 5/8 v band outlet
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Old 06-16-17, 04:29 PM   #3403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucci5112 View Post
Hi Ali so I had a quick question, sorry if im off topic but i tried everything befor i came on the thread. I'm new to the 2jz world and so enjoying it. I couldn't really find a direct answer on the Aem v1 30-1101 being used on an is300. Is it possible? I seen as you were showing a couple diagrams on the coil pack and plugs being wired it showed that it was originally for the aem unit. So is it possible to run the aem v1 ems 30-1101 on my vvti 2jzge na-t 2002 is300??I ask because I spent alot of money on the unit and would like an answer from someone with your knowledge b4 I lose money on it. THANK YOU for any input you can give.
This thread may help you out: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...play-what.html
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Old 06-20-17, 08:19 AM   #3404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucci5112 View Post
so are you saying the easiest way would be to take a non vvti harness cut the ecu ends off and mate it with my vvti harness?? or just use the non vvti harness and add coil pack wires? wich way would you do it, if you were gonna do it lol. I have both harness at disposal. I actually have to vvti harnesses to play with. And for now to get my car running na-t for the mean time I just got my jdm aristo ecu in and 440cc injectors, usdm map sensor e ct. quick question Ali, do you think the precision 6766 bb is to much for the 440'S even at low boost? it's a t4 .68ar with a 3 5/8 v band outlet
Since that ecu has a non vvti connector, I would use the non vvti harness and add the wires missing from the vvti harness (unwrap vvt harness and remove parts you need and add to non vvti harness. that is essentially what they would do if you ordered one. coil wires, cam and crank wires, and vvti wires are the main things to strip off and add, will be alot less work than doing it the other way... i think lol.

I don't get how you will run a vvti 2jzge on a non vvti ecu, what will you do with vvti?
also the vvti doesn't have the same cam and crank sensors that the older ecu needs.
the vvi crank gear is 36-2 o something like that and not the 24 tooth wheel like the non vvti.. you could swap that out but then you only have one cam sensor on the head when the old ecu needs 2 of them.

that turbo will flow alot but you should be ok if you keep the boost low, start with a 8-9 psi waste gate spring and get a boost controller and watch your wideband to see where you can raise is, you might be able to get away with 14 psi or a little more but I am just guessing you will want to see what the wideband is saying and keep it at least 11-12 afr or richer.
I don't think the vvti bock can handle much more than that really, unless you are building the bottom end you might want a smaller turbo to get more power under the curve.
the 440's in general aren't that bad really I hit 400hp with them... remember fuel pressure rises with boost and the turbo ecu dumps fuel right before you reach boost cut. the 440's can be hard to find sometimes though so maybe with that turbo if you have a safc laying around install that with some 550's for some more overhead. still I don't get how you will run vvti or the older ecu at all with a vvti block and head.

I would say just get the aem harness going and forget about the tt ecu mod unless you are doing the vvti tt ecu then that could work with just using the vvti harness? can you elaborate on what you are doing I am confused now.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-20-17 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 07-01-17, 07:20 AM   #3405
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Since that ecu has a non vvti connector, I would use the non vvti harness and add the wires missing from the vvti harness (unwrap vvt harness and remove parts you need and add to non vvti harness. that is essentially what they would do if you ordered one. coil wires, cam and crank wires, and vvti wires are the main things to strip off and add, will be alot less work than doing it the other way... i think lol.

I don't get how you will run a vvti 2jzge on a non vvti ecu, what will you do with vvti?
also the vvti doesn't have the same cam and crank sensors that the older ecu needs.
the vvi crank gear is 36-2 o something like that and not the 24 tooth wheel like the non vvti.. you could swap that out but then you only have one cam sensor on the head when the old ecu needs 2 of them.

that turbo will flow alot but you should be ok if you keep the boost low, start with a 8-9 psi waste gate spring and get a boost controller and watch your wideband to see where you can raise is, you might be able to get away with 14 psi or a little more but I am just guessing you will want to see what the wideband is saying and keep it at least 11-12 afr or richer.
I don't think the vvti bock can handle much more than that really, unless you are building the bottom end you might want a smaller turbo to get more power under the curve.
the 440's in general aren't that bad really I hit 400hp with them... remember fuel pressure rises with boost and the turbo ecu dumps fuel right before you reach boost cut. the 440's can be hard to find sometimes though so maybe with that turbo if you have a safc laying around install that with some 550's for some more overhead. still I don't get how you will run vvti or the older ecu at all with a vvti block and head.

I would say just get the aem harness going and forget about the tt ecu mod unless you are doing the vvti tt ecu then that could work with just using the vvti harness? can you elaborate on what you are doing I am confused now.
Ok forget about the aristo ecu, but it is the vvti ecu?. SO I just want the aem v1 30-1101 thats meant for 93 to 97 sc300 2jzge non vvti. My car is a 2002 is with vvti, so I would like to get the aem v1 to work with my car since I already spent the money on it. And truthfully Ali I dont need vvti if that would make it easier? To just delete/remove it? So if i got a sc300 harness and used it, how could I get that to work with the aem with vvti deleted if it makes it easier on my 2002 is300. Also I have two turbos, I have the pte 6766 and pte 5858 could go with the smaller one for now. Since the 440s are all I have for injectors at this moment? Also thank you Ali for taking the, ypur time to help me out.

Last edited by Tucci5112; 07-01-17 at 07:21 AM. Reason: Wrong word
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