2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
12-27-16, 08:52 PM
#3286
Go for the 1800rwhp on that Land Cruiser engine like what Titan Motorsports did . PHR also have their 500rwhp Land Cruiser with 400 ft. lbs of torque on all wheel drive .
For my NA-T engine on the second 1997 SC300 5 speed, using the 1997 2JZGE engine with 108k miles , I would drill the oil return for the oil pan , install ARP rod bolts , ARP mains without separating head from block so the head gasket is intact , I will one by one replace the head studs with ARP. studs . What do you think ? I just want it ready for future boosting . I know people will always say you need line honing when you add ARP mains and rod bolts but I got away with it without doing that with 2 engines and those engines are still alive and been pushing +800rwhp with over 10k miles.
Sam (raceforlife on SF from Alabama) made +840 on a stock 2JZGE long block with just bolt ons , using a good aftermarket ECU and race gas. I will try to push it with E85 up to where the W58 can safely handle initially and then if ever I end up with a better tranny in there , l will check where E85 will bring it. NA-T high compression really depends on your aftermarket ECU tuning. I believe I can play around with it having been playing and tuning my ProEFIs for a while now.
Sam (raceforlife on SF from Alabama) made +840 on a stock 2JZGE long block with just bolt ons , using a good aftermarket ECU and race gas. I will try to push it with E85 up to where the W58 can safely handle initially and then if ever I end up with a better tranny in there , l will check where E85 will bring it. NA-T high compression really depends on your aftermarket ECU tuning. I believe I can play around with it having been playing and tuning my ProEFIs for a while now.
I have heard about doing the head studs one at a time, should be fine. Omar ran the stock headbolts up to 700whp and they held, but who knows for how long.
Its a safe bet to use the arp hardware though. I don't see why you really need to machine if you are just changing fasteners in the proper sequence, that might be overkill in terms of insurance as you said you got away with it I would suspect you can again, these motors have good clearances and specs from factory so its more forgiving I feel like.
Yeah you can get some good power out of it either way, don't need to go to E85 when the w58 is limiting the power, but if you are putting new fuel lines in then might as well go big anyways for later in case you or someone else does swap the trans... or you could just use the stock fuel lines for now and pump gas and keep it with a tickling 400hp lol. the w58 will hold 400 or so if driven sensibly, maybe a little more even... but I feel like they break much more easily as soon as you go lsd and/or wide/sticky tires. If you are spinning the wheels the trans can hold up but if it hooks hard enough it was never meant for that kind of load up of torque.
01-02-17, 01:02 AM
#3287
Has anyone experienced ignitor problems? I went through 3 ignitors and each time it left me stranded on the side of the road. During the summer, the ignitor failed again and so I thought maybe the ignitor's housing itself didn't have a good enough ground so I cleaned up the contacts of the mounting screw holes to create a better ground. This allowed the car to start right back up. However, after letting the car sit in storage for 4 months, I decided to start it back up but the engine died after a 15 minute idle and couldn't get it to fire back up again. I checked for spark with a timing light. No spark. I checked all fuses with a voltmeter and tested the EFI relay. Any ideas?
I'm getting fault codes 14 and 34.
I'm getting fault codes 14 and 34.
Last edited by aznexus; 01-02-17 at 01:24 AM.
01-02-17, 02:16 PM
#3288
Havent heard of that one before. maybe there is an issue going on I can't see 3 just failing randomly like that. did you leave the noise filter in that was by the original coil?
those ignitors have a ground wire so they don't need to be grounded through the case, maybe a loose wire then, check all the pins seat well in the connector.
those ignitors have a ground wire so they don't need to be grounded through the case, maybe a loose wire then, check all the pins seat well in the connector.
01-03-17, 10:24 AM
#3290
I searched the thread and I did not find any information on doing this with a 01+ GS300, has anyone gotten it to work? Also has anyone used a Mines or Toms tuned Aristo ecu instead of the stock gte ecu?
01-03-17, 04:38 PM
#3291
yeah igniter failures can happen but is not common. In all my experimenting with dh61, ds62, tt ignitor, avalon 6 channel ignitors... I never had one fail on me, so I suspect with 3 failures there is some reason behind it.
No one has posted about doing it on a vvti, but I have heard of gte vvti motors being run on the n/a ecu's with a piggyback to maintain obd2 for emissions, so this is just the same but the reverse using the gte ecu and stuff.
In fact there is less wiring to do on a vvti motor/harness as it already has coil packs and everything, the cam and crank triggers are the same between the 2 vvti engines, just unplug the GE maf and plug in the GTE maf, plug in the GTE ecu, make sure there are no intake leaks and recirculate the bov, and I think the 2jzgte vvti ecu looks for a map sensor also but can run in limp mode without it, so wire that in and you are good to go (about the only major wiring needed).
I want to say the 1jz vvti does not use a map sensor as its single turbo so if you are using one of those ecu's then you wouldn't need to add that but I am not sure if the plug is the same as the 2jz vvti stuff, anyways I would use a 2jzgte vvti ecu on a 2jzge vvti na-t just to have the tune match up better.
there could be some minor differences like o2 sensor or whatever I am glossing over but its actually a pretty straight forward conversion when going single turbo like all na-t setups use.
If you were going with a gte head and doing stock twins, then I would say modify the Gte harness as it has all the twin turbo stuff on it (or rip that stuff of the gte harness and add to the ge harness, or get a custom harness $$), but when going single turbo with either vvti head just reuse your ge harness its already in the car and working, and will plug up to the engine already its easy stuff once you get into it.
make sure you are using good gas, those vvti ecu's are tuned for low compression and since you have a vvti GE motor, you cannot lower the base timing at all.
Good news is the ecu should sort itself out quickly so let it learn some before beating on it too badly.
No one has posted about doing it on a vvti, but I have heard of gte vvti motors being run on the n/a ecu's with a piggyback to maintain obd2 for emissions, so this is just the same but the reverse using the gte ecu and stuff.
In fact there is less wiring to do on a vvti motor/harness as it already has coil packs and everything, the cam and crank triggers are the same between the 2 vvti engines, just unplug the GE maf and plug in the GTE maf, plug in the GTE ecu, make sure there are no intake leaks and recirculate the bov, and I think the 2jzgte vvti ecu looks for a map sensor also but can run in limp mode without it, so wire that in and you are good to go (about the only major wiring needed).
I want to say the 1jz vvti does not use a map sensor as its single turbo so if you are using one of those ecu's then you wouldn't need to add that but I am not sure if the plug is the same as the 2jz vvti stuff, anyways I would use a 2jzgte vvti ecu on a 2jzge vvti na-t just to have the tune match up better.
there could be some minor differences like o2 sensor or whatever I am glossing over but its actually a pretty straight forward conversion when going single turbo like all na-t setups use.
If you were going with a gte head and doing stock twins, then I would say modify the Gte harness as it has all the twin turbo stuff on it (or rip that stuff of the gte harness and add to the ge harness, or get a custom harness $$), but when going single turbo with either vvti head just reuse your ge harness its already in the car and working, and will plug up to the engine already its easy stuff once you get into it.
make sure you are using good gas, those vvti ecu's are tuned for low compression and since you have a vvti GE motor, you cannot lower the base timing at all.
Good news is the ecu should sort itself out quickly so let it learn some before beating on it too badly.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-03-17 at 04:41 PM.
01-04-17, 06:09 AM
#3292
Interesting. I thought everyone was avoiding the vvti swap because the jdm motor could never maintain the obd2 when swapping between ecu's at inspection time. It would be really nice to have a 98-00 SC3 with a fresh turbo motor and trans.
01-04-17, 09:13 AM
#3293
yeah igniter failures can happen but is not common. In all my experimenting with dh61, ds62, tt ignitor, avalon 6 channel ignitors... I never had one fail on me, so I suspect with 3 failures there is some reason behind it.
No one has posted about doing it on a vvti, but I have heard of gte vvti motors being run on the n/a ecu's with a piggyback to maintain obd2 for emissions, so this is just the same but the reverse using the gte ecu and stuff.
In fact there is less wiring to do on a vvti motor/harness as it already has coil packs and everything, the cam and crank triggers are the same between the 2 vvti engines, just unplug the GE maf and plug in the GTE maf, plug in the GTE ecu, make sure there are no intake leaks and recirculate the bov, and I think the 2jzgte vvti ecu looks for a map sensor also but can run in limp mode without it, so wire that in and you are good to go (about the only major wiring needed).
I want to say the 1jz vvti does not use a map sensor as its single turbo so if you are using one of those ecu's then you wouldn't need to add that but I am not sure if the plug is the same as the 2jz vvti stuff, anyways I would use a 2jzgte vvti ecu on a 2jzge vvti na-t just to have the tune match up better.
there could be some minor differences like o2 sensor or whatever I am glossing over but its actually a pretty straight forward conversion when going single turbo like all na-t setups use.
If you were going with a gte head and doing stock twins, then I would say modify the Gte harness as it has all the twin turbo stuff on it (or rip that stuff of the gte harness and add to the ge harness, or get a custom harness $$), but when going single turbo with either vvti head just reuse your ge harness its already in the car and working, and will plug up to the engine already its easy stuff once you get into it.
make sure you are using good gas, those vvti ecu's are tuned for low compression and since you have a vvti GE motor, you cannot lower the base timing at all.
Good news is the ecu should sort itself out quickly so let it learn some before beating on it too badly.
No one has posted about doing it on a vvti, but I have heard of gte vvti motors being run on the n/a ecu's with a piggyback to maintain obd2 for emissions, so this is just the same but the reverse using the gte ecu and stuff.
In fact there is less wiring to do on a vvti motor/harness as it already has coil packs and everything, the cam and crank triggers are the same between the 2 vvti engines, just unplug the GE maf and plug in the GTE maf, plug in the GTE ecu, make sure there are no intake leaks and recirculate the bov, and I think the 2jzgte vvti ecu looks for a map sensor also but can run in limp mode without it, so wire that in and you are good to go (about the only major wiring needed).
I want to say the 1jz vvti does not use a map sensor as its single turbo so if you are using one of those ecu's then you wouldn't need to add that but I am not sure if the plug is the same as the 2jz vvti stuff, anyways I would use a 2jzgte vvti ecu on a 2jzge vvti na-t just to have the tune match up better.
there could be some minor differences like o2 sensor or whatever I am glossing over but its actually a pretty straight forward conversion when going single turbo like all na-t setups use.
If you were going with a gte head and doing stock twins, then I would say modify the Gte harness as it has all the twin turbo stuff on it (or rip that stuff of the gte harness and add to the ge harness, or get a custom harness $$), but when going single turbo with either vvti head just reuse your ge harness its already in the car and working, and will plug up to the engine already its easy stuff once you get into it.
make sure you are using good gas, those vvti ecu's are tuned for low compression and since you have a vvti GE motor, you cannot lower the base timing at all.
Good news is the ecu should sort itself out quickly so let it learn some before beating on it too badly.
I would love to get a custom harness but Dr. Tweak charges $1600 for the 01+ GS300s even though there are only a few minor differences
01-04-17, 10:49 AM
#3294
@Ali SC3
not liking this at all
. Not only do I seldom see you here now , I don't see the garnet pearl SC on your signature anymore
and now I see a damn luggage carrier and the rear of the stingray which is the ugliest part of that Corvette
I am about to close this thread ... hahahahahhahaha
On a serious note : I have decided to mate the W58 to the 2JZGE engine all stock with 108k miles and will install it on the 97 SC300 5speed. I have drilled and installed a -10an fitting on the oil pan so if I ever decide to boost it , it is ready . No point of doing all the ARP hardware when the limiting factor is the W58 at around 400..
not liking this at all
. Not only do I seldom see you here now , I don't see the garnet pearl SC on your signature anymoreand now I see a damn luggage carrier and the rear of the stingray which is the ugliest part of that Corvette
I am about to close this thread ... hahahahahhahaha
On a serious note : I have decided to mate the W58 to the 2JZGE engine all stock with 108k miles and will install it on the 97 SC300 5speed. I have drilled and installed a -10an fitting on the oil pan so if I ever decide to boost it , it is ready . No point of doing all the ARP hardware when the limiting factor is the W58 at around 400..
01-04-17, 10:54 AM
#3295
I'm reluctant because I believe the ECU plugs are different on the 01+ GS300s. I think it would still work but I would probably need to repin a few plugs.
I would love to get a custom harness but Dr. Tweak charges $1600 for the 01+ GS300s even though there are only a few minor differences
I would love to get a custom harness but Dr. Tweak charges $1600 for the 01+ GS300s even though there are only a few minor differences
You might as well use that money to get a 2JZGTE VVTi and install it on your GS300 .. wiring is minor changes to your GS300 harness .. mostly on the transmission to use the 2JZGTE VVTi auto trans.
Google and checkout my 2JZGTE Wiring Harness Made Easy thread. On the first page there is a link to the VVTi harness version.
01-04-17, 01:25 PM
#3296
huh ? $1600 ... dang
You might as well use that money to get a 2JZGTE VVTi and install it on your GS300 .. wiring is minor changes to your GS300 harness .. mostly on the transmission to use the 2JZGTE VVTi auto trans.
Google and checkout my 2JZGTE Wiring Harness Made Easy thread. On the first page there is a link to the VVTi harness version.
You might as well use that money to get a 2JZGTE VVTi and install it on your GS300 .. wiring is minor changes to your GS300 harness .. mostly on the transmission to use the 2JZGTE VVTi auto trans.
Google and checkout my 2JZGTE Wiring Harness Made Easy thread. On the first page there is a link to the VVTi harness version.
Thanks, Ill check it out!
01-05-17, 11:57 AM
#3297
I am not an expert on the vvti ecu setups, but as far as wiring harnesses go, if you were to drop in a GTE motor with a single turbo, its quite easy to reuse your vvti GE harness.
If you don't have to worry about emissions, its a no brainer to drop in a vvti gte motor into a ge vvti car. majority of it will be plug and play as said above.
I'm reluctant because I believe the ECU plugs are different on the 01+ GS300s. I think it would still work but I would probably need to repin a few plugs.
I would love to get a custom harness but Dr. Tweak charges $1600 for the 01+ GS300s even though there are only a few minor differences
I would love to get a custom harness but Dr. Tweak charges $1600 for the 01+ GS300s even though there are only a few minor differences
Gerrb said pretty much that above, check out his thread its ridiculously useful when it comes to learning about these harnesses.
@Ali SC3
not liking this at all . Not only do I seldom see you here now , I don't see the garnet pearl SC on your signature anymore
and now I see a damn luggage carrier and the rear of the stingray which is the ugliest part of that Corvette
I am about to close this thread ... hahahahahhahaha
On a serious note : I have decided to mate the W58 to the 2JZGE engine all stock with 108k miles and will install it on the 97 SC300 5speed. I have drilled and installed a -10an fitting on the oil pan so if I ever decide to boost it , it is ready . No point of doing all the ARP hardware when the limiting factor is the W58 at around 400..
not liking this at all
. Not only do I seldom see you here now , I don't see the garnet pearl SC on your signature anymoreand now I see a damn luggage carrier and the rear of the stingray which is the ugliest part of that Corvette
I am about to close this thread ... hahahahahhahaha
On a serious note : I have decided to mate the W58 to the 2JZGE engine all stock with 108k miles and will install it on the 97 SC300 5speed. I have drilled and installed a -10an fitting on the oil pan so if I ever decide to boost it , it is ready . No point of doing all the ARP hardware when the limiting factor is the W58 at around 400..
And that luggage carrier (actually meant to strap the t-tops to) is one of my fav parts!!
Although it is a pain in the **** to keep the chrome clean on it... I am really glad previous owner did not shave it with the emblems.
When I get a chance I'll change it to the front of the car lol!!
I know you like this thread too much to close it
although I'm pretty sure there is someone who would like to banish this thread to the tank 
oh and on the 2jzge, I think its a solid move. Can't build them all, you did the most annoying part there is doing the oil drain while in the car, the rest can be done at any time.
I know everyone does arp hardware for insurance, but a good condition stock longblock can handle alot more power than people give it credit for, def more than a w58 could ever handle.
01-05-17, 03:36 PM
#3299
Looks like most people avoided the swap due to needing the retain the obd2 port functionality and not wanting to use a piggyback. Parallel ecu's sounds like the best option, I wonder how much a parallel jumper harness would run.
I would guess most people would rather deal with a 92-95 than try anything with a 98-00 car. Not to mention I don't see many 98-00 cars floating around.
I feel like I'm overestimating the advantages of the vvti gte, maybe gerrb can chime in on this as well, since I've never driven one.
I would guess most people would rather deal with a 92-95 than try anything with a 98-00 car. Not to mention I don't see many 98-00 cars floating around.
I feel like I'm overestimating the advantages of the vvti gte, maybe gerrb can chime in on this as well, since I've never driven one.
A lot better. The side view (taken from behind or front) showing both the humps on the quarter panel and front fender wheel well is the best view of that car IMHO.