2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
07-28-16, 07:07 PM
#3212
Hey guys what have you done to connect your vvti coils to the wires you run to Battery and the Igniter ?
I noticed there is what looks like there is a clip wher a connector would clip onto the vvti coils. Do you guys find a connector with wires to splice that clips on or just use spade clips?
I noticed there is what looks like there is a clip wher a connector would clip onto the vvti coils. Do you guys find a connector with wires to splice that clips on or just use spade clips?
07-29-16, 09:57 AM
#3213
its the same clip as the stock coil clip, you just need to find 2 more. its also the same clip as TT coils, 1uz coils, all the toyota 2 pin coils.
you can also get a mk3 supra 7mgte coilpack harness and extend that, it will come with the 3 clips you need.
you can also get a mk3 supra 7mgte coilpack harness and extend that, it will come with the 3 clips you need.
08-12-16, 10:28 AM
#3215
Looks right to me, boot with a spring inside. the vvti boots do not "click" into place like the stock leads, but they should form a decent seal when you push down so when you go to pull it off there is like a little suction resistance. if not then the boots are likely a little worn but its not a big deal, really isn't that much space for them to move around once you put all the wires and leads on.
08-12-16, 12:26 PM
#3216
Looks right to me, boot with a spring inside. the vvti boots do not "click" into place like the stock leads, but they should form a decent seal when you push down so when you go to pull it off there is like a little suction resistance. if not then the boots are likely a little worn but its not a big deal, really isn't that much space for them to move around once you put all the wires and leads on.
Also - somewhat related and at the risk of opening a can of worms, plugs...
I'm running IK22 plugs and have been in for the past ~4K miles @ 8psi with stock compression. I was running a RRFPR that was adding way too much fuel under boost and fouling the plugs. I picked up a set of IK20's and was planning on running those if just reducing the RRFPR ratio didn't cut it. This was before the TT ecu mod had been well established, however.
New setup will be JDM TT ECU with 440 injectors and VVTi COP, slowly working boost up to the limit of the stock HG (12-14psi), with maybe water/meth injection down the line. I just pulled the IK22's and they look mint, but also have a new set of IK20's here. Which would you run in my position? Everything I've read says IK20 up to 14psi, IK22 beyond that, but that's for the stock TT with its lower CR. PS - did I mention I hate pulling the TB? Hence why I'm looking for what will work best now and later.
08-12-16, 12:42 PM
#3217
First thing I would do now is remove the RRFPR, and for your amount of boost either would work I have run a 6 range plug up 17 psi before with no issues, but a 7 heatrange plug would technically be better for a single turbo especially with stock compression so I say go with the Ik22 again, its very difficult to foul out iridiums to the point where they go bad, generally they will self clean when you get them in the right temp range again so 4k they are practically new still. the only issu you might have with the colder range is on cold starts on very cold day... but generally most people don't experience that until they hit a 8 heat range.
If you remove the RRFPR you will solve the problem, don't change plugs to a hotter range to solve over fueling issues if you can avoid that. if your car has been starting well, then you are in the range you need to be. the turbo will get them hot enough to clean, you just need to get rid of the extra fuel those Rising rate regulators really dump it in there.
If you remove the RRFPR you will solve the problem, don't change plugs to a hotter range to solve over fueling issues if you can avoid that. if your car has been starting well, then you are in the range you need to be. the turbo will get them hot enough to clean, you just need to get rid of the extra fuel those Rising rate regulators really dump it in there.
08-13-16, 08:22 AM
#3218
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Glad to see most people getting their cars running good with this mod and thanks again for all the help you guys are putting out there everyday. I've been running pretty decent with it for a few years now but have had a couple nagging issues that i had to put on the back burner until now.
For the past couple years or so my car was having a random hard start issue where it would act like it is flooded, hot or cold starts at varying intervals or sitting time, usually going through deflood procedure would get it going after a few sputtering deaths. Once it got started it would run and idle fine, usually 11-12 afr at cold and 14-15 when warm with a smooth idle. Was running 550cc rx7 injectors and thought maybe they could be leaking, put stock 330s in, adjusted my safc to compensate and the starting issue was still there. 550s went back in after having them cleaned and tested, and as expected saw no change in starting issue. Sometimes the car will run and drive for a couple weeks in a row without any problems starting, but then it will do it once and then all over again every other day or a few times a day, then back to normal.
The more concerning issue i have is that when going full WOT, when the car gets to where the wastegate should be opening at around 9 psi, i lose all power as if im hitting a fuel cut or boost cut. I say around 9 psi because sometimes it seems like it hits at a little lower psi. This has been an issue since doing the mod and turbo install which i did at the same time but as i was going from no turbo to turbo, i was happy with the very noticeable increase in power. The problem is that i can't sustain that power for more than a few seconds before it cuts out.
If anybody can help me with either of these issues it will be greatly appreciated.
1995 w58, vvti coils, ds62 ignitor, jdm ecu, 550cc injectors, safc 2, walbro. Also have replaced and gapped plugs a few different ways, changed coil boots and at least 2 coils.
I did have issues with a few bad ecus and map sensors.
For the past couple years or so my car was having a random hard start issue where it would act like it is flooded, hot or cold starts at varying intervals or sitting time, usually going through deflood procedure would get it going after a few sputtering deaths. Once it got started it would run and idle fine, usually 11-12 afr at cold and 14-15 when warm with a smooth idle. Was running 550cc rx7 injectors and thought maybe they could be leaking, put stock 330s in, adjusted my safc to compensate and the starting issue was still there. 550s went back in after having them cleaned and tested, and as expected saw no change in starting issue. Sometimes the car will run and drive for a couple weeks in a row without any problems starting, but then it will do it once and then all over again every other day or a few times a day, then back to normal.
The more concerning issue i have is that when going full WOT, when the car gets to where the wastegate should be opening at around 9 psi, i lose all power as if im hitting a fuel cut or boost cut. I say around 9 psi because sometimes it seems like it hits at a little lower psi. This has been an issue since doing the mod and turbo install which i did at the same time but as i was going from no turbo to turbo, i was happy with the very noticeable increase in power. The problem is that i can't sustain that power for more than a few seconds before it cuts out.
If anybody can help me with either of these issues it will be greatly appreciated.
1995 w58, vvti coils, ds62 ignitor, jdm ecu, 550cc injectors, safc 2, walbro. Also have replaced and gapped plugs a few different ways, changed coil boots and at least 2 coils.
I did have issues with a few bad ecus and map sensors.
Last edited by briggs33; 08-13-16 at 08:29 AM.
08-15-16, 12:10 PM
#3219
couple things, get a manual boost controller in there and set it to 9 psi. it will help with spool cause the reason it seems to happen earlier sometimes is that you are getting boost creep where the boost starts to crack the waste gate spring early and it takes too long to spool up to 9 psi as a result then. adding the boost controller will give you better spool and more power at the same psi, because the wastegate wont see any pressure on it till you actually hit 9 psi. it makes your car more consistent and faster without even raising the psi.
Now, why you are having the hard start and the issue up top, that's harder to say for sure.
A vac leak can cause issues like the hard start and the mixture to be off in boost some.
rx7 injectors are not the best for atomization on these motors, so that could explain the tough start. starting with 330's even with the safc adjusted isn't going to be perfect either so I wouldn't use that as a good comparison for a good start I would expect that to not start well either. you could simply need to adjust the throttle body some if you are not getting enough start air or the IACV is not parking in the right position it can help.
rx7 injectors have a tendency to "stream" versus atomize right away, and it can also wet the plugs on some starts doing what you are saying, one of the reason I stopped using those injectors was they were not always consistent. in an rx7 the rotor is very far away from the injector port, so it "streams" through the runner and eventually by the time it reaches the rotor it atomizes some... whereas our stock injectors have 4 holes that atomize right away as the runner is basically sitting on top of the valves. you can change the pintle caps on the end of the injectors or just go with different ones, but if you modulate the throttle a bit it should fire off majority of the time.
The boost issue, makes me think you are too rich a 9 psi, that is usually when it cuts out. do you have a wideband to see what you are at fuel wise?
lets start there before jumping to conclusions. typical with 550's you would be running more like 14+ psi, so chances are you have quite a bit of extra fuel at 9 psi unless you are pulling out the right amount already. at those lower boost levels aim for a 11 ratio, there is no need to be at a solid 10 at those boost levels 9 psi is like tickle me boost for a 2jz. also the injector atomization can some into play as well but it seems to be less of a problem in boost versus starting but everything factors in.
first thing I would do is check over all vacuum lines, even one cracked or popping off on these map based cars throws off the whole tune.
Now, why you are having the hard start and the issue up top, that's harder to say for sure.
A vac leak can cause issues like the hard start and the mixture to be off in boost some.
rx7 injectors are not the best for atomization on these motors, so that could explain the tough start. starting with 330's even with the safc adjusted isn't going to be perfect either so I wouldn't use that as a good comparison for a good start I would expect that to not start well either. you could simply need to adjust the throttle body some if you are not getting enough start air or the IACV is not parking in the right position it can help.
rx7 injectors have a tendency to "stream" versus atomize right away, and it can also wet the plugs on some starts doing what you are saying, one of the reason I stopped using those injectors was they were not always consistent. in an rx7 the rotor is very far away from the injector port, so it "streams" through the runner and eventually by the time it reaches the rotor it atomizes some... whereas our stock injectors have 4 holes that atomize right away as the runner is basically sitting on top of the valves. you can change the pintle caps on the end of the injectors or just go with different ones, but if you modulate the throttle a bit it should fire off majority of the time.
The boost issue, makes me think you are too rich a 9 psi, that is usually when it cuts out. do you have a wideband to see what you are at fuel wise?
lets start there before jumping to conclusions. typical with 550's you would be running more like 14+ psi, so chances are you have quite a bit of extra fuel at 9 psi unless you are pulling out the right amount already. at those lower boost levels aim for a 11 ratio, there is no need to be at a solid 10 at those boost levels 9 psi is like tickle me boost for a 2jz. also the injector atomization can some into play as well but it seems to be less of a problem in boost versus starting but everything factors in.
first thing I would do is check over all vacuum lines, even one cracked or popping off on these map based cars throws off the whole tune.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-15-16 at 12:16 PM.
08-17-16, 05:28 PM
#3220
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Manual boost controller is something I will definitely start with on the boosting issue since that does seem to make sense.
On hard starts, with 550s I was pulling 20%-25% and was seeing 14.7 at cruise, 12s when cold and 15s when hot at idle after starting. I have been running with the 330 for a few months now because i wanted to get the issue figured without changing back and forth. I haven't been boosting much anyway. With the 330s i have been adding 25% Now i know neither of my injector sizes are ideal since the ECU is set for 440s but from the way the car acts with both injectors it makes me think its something else, the rx7 injectors were the first thin i thought of since they are known for issues, flooding being one of them.
A little more info on the hard starts. On days where it wants to be a ****, the car will turn over fine once but not fire, i then put gas pedal down and try turning it again for a few cranks, usually it will fire and sputter out in death or back fire a bunch of times. I will do that a few more times until it isn't trying to start at all and no longer backfiring, just the starter engaging. I then take my foot off the gas and most of the time at that point it will fire up and idle like normal. Sometimes however, it will idle fine until i touch the gas and it will sputter to death again and i need to start over. I have to go through the same process with both injector sets.
I've thought about start up air being an issue before. When i was going through the injector swaps i had pulled my intake tube off and drove with no filter for a couple weeks with no issue until i was satisfied that i wouldn't have to pull it off again anytime soon. A day after putting it back on it wouldn't start. A couple days later i thought about the filter and pulled it off and drove it around for a few days and started to get the issue constantly again. Think the iacv could be adjusting incorrectly on start up air?
I've checked vacuum lines a 100+times, but i will do it again because i've seen people say they triple checked things and then 2 months later find a mistake in it.
On hard starts, with 550s I was pulling 20%-25% and was seeing 14.7 at cruise, 12s when cold and 15s when hot at idle after starting. I have been running with the 330 for a few months now because i wanted to get the issue figured without changing back and forth. I haven't been boosting much anyway. With the 330s i have been adding 25% Now i know neither of my injector sizes are ideal since the ECU is set for 440s but from the way the car acts with both injectors it makes me think its something else, the rx7 injectors were the first thin i thought of since they are known for issues, flooding being one of them.
A little more info on the hard starts. On days where it wants to be a ****, the car will turn over fine once but not fire, i then put gas pedal down and try turning it again for a few cranks, usually it will fire and sputter out in death or back fire a bunch of times. I will do that a few more times until it isn't trying to start at all and no longer backfiring, just the starter engaging. I then take my foot off the gas and most of the time at that point it will fire up and idle like normal. Sometimes however, it will idle fine until i touch the gas and it will sputter to death again and i need to start over. I have to go through the same process with both injector sets.
I've thought about start up air being an issue before. When i was going through the injector swaps i had pulled my intake tube off and drove with no filter for a couple weeks with no issue until i was satisfied that i wouldn't have to pull it off again anytime soon. A day after putting it back on it wouldn't start. A couple days later i thought about the filter and pulled it off and drove it around for a few days and started to get the issue constantly again. Think the iacv could be adjusting incorrectly on start up air?
I've checked vacuum lines a 100+times, but i will do it again because i've seen people say they triple checked things and then 2 months later find a mistake in it.
08-18-16, 09:34 AM
#3221
iacv could be part of the problem but is sounds like you are wetting down the plugs on start. I would suspect the ecu again, try an find a known good one (its tough i know). sometimes getting them repaired doesn't do it 100%. overfueling to cause that hard of a start is either that, or a few leaky injectors (hopefully swapping injectors sort of rules that out), or even a failed fuel pressure regulator... but if that was bad it wouldn't work right ever.
you can rule out the IACV more or less when the next time you go to cold start it, press the throttle down like 1/8 to 1/4 of the way and try it. that should let enough air in to get a good stat, if its still not firing off then maybe lok elsewhere. kind of hard to diagnose these issues but I wouldn't use the 330's if they didn't help, go back to the 550's.
you can rule out the IACV more or less when the next time you go to cold start it, press the throttle down like 1/8 to 1/4 of the way and try it. that should let enough air in to get a good stat, if its still not firing off then maybe lok elsewhere. kind of hard to diagnose these issues but I wouldn't use the 330's if they didn't help, go back to the 550's.
08-18-16, 02:57 PM
#3223
^^ That would be fun to see especially with your attention to detail, and with your wiring skills it'd probably be a walk in the park for you.
Could even keep the high compression and squeeze out some more fun but would probably want standalone + E85 for that.
I figure all your SC's have engines in them by now but you could always get another one
Lately this thread has been blowing my mind, every couple days I check it there is like another 1000+ views, its nuts.
I wish I had some idea of how many people have done this mod now, its probably something ridiculous.
I rolled up to a toyota car meet late a couple months ago and was talking to a few other people with SC's, I didn't bring mine out because it was right after the hit and run, and they were talking about the tt ecu mod... I was like cool yeah that's a good mod
Also I apologize to everyone for driving up the cost of JDM 2jzgte ecu's, my bad on that one.
Could even keep the high compression and squeeze out some more fun but would probably want standalone + E85 for that.
I figure all your SC's have engines in them by now but you could always get another one
Lately this thread has been blowing my mind, every couple days I check it there is like another 1000+ views, its nuts.
I wish I had some idea of how many people have done this mod now, its probably something ridiculous.
I rolled up to a toyota car meet late a couple months ago and was talking to a few other people with SC's, I didn't bring mine out because it was right after the hit and run, and they were talking about the tt ecu mod... I was like cool yeah that's a good mod
Also I apologize to everyone for driving up the cost of JDM 2jzgte ecu's, my bad on that one.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-18-16 at 03:03 PM.
08-18-16, 03:16 PM
#3224
So just to update, recently purchased a jdm ecu to replace my usdm ecu. Installed it a couple of days ago, super easy swap. And it works perfectly.
The first drive I took the first thing I though was "this is how it used to feel" back when I had that n/a smoothness. Right now its running a bit rich because of the map ecu tune, but that is pretty easy to play with. I'm slowly pulling fuel across the board to find the right mixture. Idles around 12-13, boost is in the 10's. Such a big difference now, I can actually enjoy driving the car every time I get in now. Really amazing what a difference it makes, it might as well be a different car.
Thanks for all the back and forth help Ali, I guess its safe to say anyone who needs to maintain obd2 can just run both ecu's as long as they run a map ecu or similar and swap around ecu's when required.
The first drive I took the first thing I though was "this is how it used to feel" back when I had that n/a smoothness. Right now its running a bit rich because of the map ecu tune, but that is pretty easy to play with. I'm slowly pulling fuel across the board to find the right mixture. Idles around 12-13, boost is in the 10's. Such a big difference now, I can actually enjoy driving the car every time I get in now. Really amazing what a difference it makes, it might as well be a different car.
Thanks for all the back and forth help Ali, I guess its safe to say anyone who needs to maintain obd2 can just run both ecu's as long as they run a map ecu or similar and swap around ecu's when required.