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Good news obd2 is fine I had inadvertently removed the +5v pin on the tps, it was maybe 2mm out from wiring the map in. Fired right up today so I need to get the guages wired up and drive it this weekend. The only reason i even noticed is i was checking the tps voltage. I'll update tomorrow but sounded healthy today.
Ok so I finally got it all back together and started it up for the first time! It starts and runs, ish... it stumbles like a 3 legged dog... Here's a video of it, I start it, let it idle for a few seconds then slowly push the throttle a little bit to show how it responds. Afterwards I checked and it is pulling a code 21 (O2 sensor?) and I noticed that my tach never moved when I pushed the throttle. I'm too tired to mess with it anymore tonight, but thought I'd post it up to see if anyone saw anything that's glaring me in the face as to what I need to start with.
So basically the car runs now, but all the codes are there still and it seems like the car is searching for idle.
It searches back and forth from 700 to 600 rpm and the afr's go from say 16-14 up and down slow and steadily like it is trying to figure itout but never does. The car didn't want to build pressure, and if you rev up to around 3 grand and let off fast the car dies and no blow off as far as i can tell.
It also idles at around 20-21 in/hg where I though it was supposed to be around 16-18.
So basically the car runs now, but all the codes are there still and it seems like the car is searching for idle.
It searches back and forth from 700 to 600 rpm and the afr's go from say 16-14 up and down slow and steadily like it is trying to figure itout but never does. The car didn't want to build pressure, and if you rev up to around 3 grand and let off fast the car dies and no blow off as far as i can tell.
It also idles at around 20-21 in/hg where I though it was supposed to be around 16-18.
Any ideas?
Vacuum at idle of -19 to -21 is what mine reads. Check for major leaks around the intake manifold.
Check your TPS Voltage, and timing to make sure they are correct. Is it a USDM Maf based setup? The maf is very sensitive with how the intake is setup, can cause weird issues if airflow is weird.
Already checked the voltage, i guess i have to figure out where to put these resistors to get the p1400 gone. I'm guessing just at the ecu since i don't have a traction plug, but i wasn't sure if i have to do the both throttles or just the sub one.
Got rid of the two vsv codes, I need to know the pins that the trac is looking for to get the p1400 cleared.
The fuel pump is still on constant in the on position, Idle improved after the vsv code fixes, the tach still doesn't work and I'm fairly certain I have a sizable boost leak that I need to chase down as well.
I took out the cluster to look for the resistor but the updated cluster doesn't look what I found online for the fix.
Ok I rechecked all the ignition stuff I did, coils all pin out, igniter pins out to the ecu, map sensor wire is correct, and the 4 wires for the o2 sensor are correct. It sill starts and 'runs' the same, and still don't see any movement on the tach. I verified that the tach wire from the igniter pins out to at least as far as the IG connection on the diag box, so it should be good. Any ideas?
ive forgotton what this hose next to the oil cap is. its the one with the spring clamp, i think its vacc but just in case its coolant ide like to know. thatd be bad to fill my ffim with coolant...
I think that's the vac hose for the power steering idle up, there should be one hose going to the power steering pump and another from the pump to the hard line that crosses the front of the engine and plumbs into the intake.
yeah thats the idle up for the steering system. you can just cap all that stuff of I don't run it on mine.
everyone has to do the tach fix with the multichannel ignitor, it varies year by year which resistor number, but to get the tach to work the cluster has to come off and do the tach fix I should have probably added that to page 1 I thought everyone knew that you have to do it with swaps even.
yeah thats the idle up for the steering system. you can just cap all that stuff of I don't run it on mine.
everyone has to do the tach fix with the multichannel ignitor, it varies year by year which resistor number, but to get the tach to work the cluster has to come off and do the tach fix I should have probably added that to page 1 I thought everyone knew that you have to do it with swaps even.
Ahh ok, I'll have to do some research on that then, but at least I know that part is not something I broke along the way then. Ali - any ideas on why it won't idle smooth? I am using the motorola map sensor with 550's, maybe it's just way too much fuel? I don't have a wb yet so can't get any decent numbers. It is still popping code 21 though.
I'm going to check the o2 voltages, map sensor voltages and check for vacuum leaks today. I drilled and tapped the valve covers and have 5/8 barbs on them but have them just open to atmos right now until my oil catch can/breather comes in, that shouldn't affect anything right?
wow you got it running on the motorolla map sensor? thats pretty amazing but I am 99% sure that is the problem. besides fuel it can be wanting to idle in a loaded part of the map which means you could be getting more timing than the motor can handle idling at, which means it will knock and then pull timing and dump more fuel and it will do this continuously making it run really bad. do you have a tt map sensor to try? I would try that one.
does it start and idle ok for a min and then run rough, or is it rough pretty much as soon as its started.
I would guess its rough right away. no one has gotten it to work really suprised you got it to idle even.
maybe post a video of the startup for me =)
do you have a wideband in? I would guess its still lean or if fuel is ok then too much timing.
being open to atmosphere on the valve covers with a map sensor setup is just fine. wont affect it.
if you are pulling -18 to -20 on the vac gauge at idle you are good probably without leaks, although with your rough idle and motorolla map its probably not going to pull full vac with a lumpy idle even if there are no leaks cause it wont get full combustion like that.
I think code 21 is the heater circuit of the o2 sensor, so its not connected properly. the main signal part of the o2 might still work though you need the wideband to see if the AFR is sitting still mostly or swinging around like the o2 is working.
I checked the map sensor and while I can't figure out the exact pres/volt it should be, I did verify that it changed voltages based on positive and negative pressure. I double checked my wiring for the O2 sensor, it is all correct. I also have a single wire O2 still sitting in bank 2 (rear section of the stock exhaust mani). Just to see, I jumpered that wire to the input wire going back to the ecu and it did the same thing as the 4 wire O2 that is in bank 1. I tried to measure voltages of the O2s but the readings are all over the place! It starts up rough, though if I let it sit there is does run on its own, and if I give it little gas it still acts like crap, but after I shut it off then start it again it sounds great for like 1.5 seconds then goes back to the bad idle. I don't have a tt map sensor, I was hoping to avoid having to track one down lol. Also I am only getting ~10 vacuum on the mani, but like you said it prolly won't pull a good vacuum with it running like crap.
09-26-14, 05:58 PM
