babowc

iTrader: (1)

I haven't read the entire thread, because it's 46 pages, but is the stock TT ECU tune-able?

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

More like 123 something pages lol It is more tune-able than a NA 2jzge for sure. You can use a variety of piggybacks on the TT ecu. AEM FI-C is probably one of the better choices out there for more coin if you got it. But in short. Yes.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thats good news getting it closer and closer. its possible for the clutch to be slipping but it is sort of obvious when that happens you can kind of hear it and you will probably smell the aftermath if you lay into it to make it slip. maybe it needs some more break in time. If not then it could still be something like plugs. which ones are you using, if stock get them out of there and drop in some bkr7eIX plugs the Iridiums are very difficult to foul out.

If its on the drain problem I know what it is, have had that before. its the gasket on the bottom of the turbo where the drain flange meets the turbo. If you use like a paper gasket here or don't get it perfect it will leak, drop down the drain line, and spray all over the side of the engine and transmission while you drive. the more you drive the more will get back on the trans. take a peak from underneath and if the edges of the gasket sticking out the sides look soaked, its leaking.

Ican't remember how I installed the wastegate, I remember staring at the flange for a while and looking it up and whatever I chose worked. make sure you are hooking it up to the right port on the wastegate, when they say bottom port they mean relative to the wastegate so when its sitting upside down in our bay its actually the one that is on top coming out the side. The one that comes directly out the top of it in the center is not going to be used unless you have a much fancier electronic boost controller.

For the tial a 8 psi spring sounds too little. Anytime you have a tial bov warm up the engine, let it idle, and go look at it. Is it fully closed or cracked open. If you can see the o-ring at the bottom then its almost open. then blip the throttle via the throttle body and look at it.. did it open then? if it opened up when you blip the throttle (obviously you have not gotten into boost), then you know your spring is too weak. It should not be open at idle, and it should not open on a normal throttle blip. it should only open under boost.
This is called fluttering when its open, and some people like it cause it looks cool and on a map sensor car its ok and can make an interesting sound, but on a maf car you will likely not be very happy. When I went to the next spring size up can't remember what it was it was actually too stiff not opening under boost, so I just used the old spring with about 2 washers underneath it and it got it perfect. new spring was actually a waste believe it or not but yours might be too far off I wouldn't use more than a few washers, if so get the next spring.
Even if you get the new recirculating kind make sure its closed at idle.

babowc

iTrader: (1)

I was actually looking to see if the ECU itself can be tuned via ROM tune or such.. It seems that "Mine's" has been able to reflash the stock ECU?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes, Mines does like the JDM ones, you see G-Force on the US ones.
No, no one knows how to do it cause those companies never shared any info on it, they use a daughter board to feed their own programming in place of the stock stuff. Its not easy at all would require a lot of overhead work which is why those ecu's go for around $500 usually for a used one.

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

I have a piece of info for those of us with an Aristo ECU and have done a 5 speed swap - or maybe even factory 5 speeds. The Aristo has a 5000 RPM rev limit when in neutral. All this time I have been assuming I needed a JDM Supra 6 speed ECU to get my 6000+ back. It turns out I just needed to pull pin #76 out of the ECU connector.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

let us know how it works out or have you already done it yet?

on another front I tried a new motorola 2.5 bar map sensor, and while I can get the car to start, it does not stay running for very long, maybe a second. hard to tell on the wideband but I think its just too lean. I was thinking of getting some 550's or 660's and seeing how it goes. apparently my last motorola map must have been fried because it wouldn't even start the car and brought up the CEL. the new one no CEL, just starts and dies so I think with extra fuel it might have a chance at working.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Hey Ali,

I'm assuming your trying to get more psi range by using the larger 2.5 bar map sensor?

I think this has already been answered here but just for reference, if say I reach the limit of the stock ecu / fuel cut at 14.7 psi, and I want to run more than that, is my only option to raise boost without hitting fuel cut is to install a FCD to lock the voltage? Will I be limited then essentially by the A/F at the locked voltage point due to the ECU no longer compensating beyond 1 bar? How are people achieving 17-20 psi at sea level on aristo / JDM ecu's with A/F's in the 11-12.1?

I'm no where near this point in my setup but I'm sure it will won't be long before I'm reaching the fuel cut point and looking for options to increase it.

Edit:
Looks like my best bet is to wire in my Apexi Neo, adjust for the 550cc injectors which should shift the map voltage over and hopefully give me some room to play with before boost cut is an issue.

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I did it already and it definitely works. I can't believe I have been suffering for so many years!

myLEXsc400

Ok, guys, so i finally got around to dynoing my car. Sound Performance said it runs pretty well for a car on stock ECU. I still want to get more power out of it, since i feel like 322hp is weak for 10psi. What can i do to raise the power without raising boost, since i'm on the stock HG? Or should I just not mess with it and enjoy it?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

there is already the known ways with the stock map sensor.
If you use an afc, then it lowers the signal and you get a few more psi before boost cut, whats nice here is you still keep boost cut at some point.
If you install a boost cut controller bcc, then it will clamp it before boost cut regardless of whats going on, only negative is if you overboost there is no boost cut to rely on.

with the 2.5 bar if it works which I think it probably wont, it would be like using an afc to lower the load so it would raise boost cut but still have a boost cut. just alot simpler if this could work to use larger injectors, but as I said it prob wont.

alot of people get a map ecu on these ecu's and apparently they work great with the map sensor cars, and you can just scale up and down for injectors. If you want something thats really adjustable thats a good place to start. I think a safc can handle 550s and raise the boost some also.

thats good news, just saw it in the build thread. hopefully it will get a chance to learn maybe reset it and see how the power feels now.

That is pretty good actually. If the afr's are good which they look fine you could probably go up to like 12 psi. with boost cut at 14 that would be a good place to stop and you can maybe get close to the 340-350 mark. no one knows how much you can exactly on the stock headgasket and every turbo is different. Milon on a standalone runs like over 600hp on the stock headgasket but with a standalone and complete tune, but as long as the ecu is all working and happy no bad sensors I would think you could do 12 and if the AFR's are good then lock it there till you do the headgasket.

BuffNStuff

Your car looks great! Love the color/wheel combo. Get some track time in! Should be low 13's at that power level. I wonder how that sp63 compares to the 6262. You got me excited for when I dyno mine.

myLEXsc400

thank you very much. track time is next! get your car dynoed soon, looking forward to seeing the results

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Wired in my Apexi Neo this evening. Followed the GTE install aside for using the Map sensor wire at pin 62B versus the MAF like in the USDM supra.

It works and acts as it should and allowed me to adjust for the 550's that I installed previously. While the car would start and eventually drive fine before without any adjustment, cold starts would go pig rich and peg 10.0:1 until it warmed up and the ecu started compensating.

Current Settings:
Vtec - Off
6 cyl
Throttle: Symbol aimed upwards and set off and on %
Pressure: 1-IN 1-OUT
Lo - 69%
Hi - 70%

Lo is currently set at -20 % across to adjust for the 550's. This achieved a 14.5-14.7 idle A/F and I could watch the A/F lean out as i slowly adjusted so the SAFC is definitely doing it's job.

myLEXsc400

so, it turns out my celebrations of the car running right were short lived. it ran ok without the CEL on for less then a week. I had it dynoed yesterday morning and then parked it, and today in the evening i started it up and the CEL is on again. Just my luck with this effing car. Smells like fuel again. I ran the codes and they are
P0300
P0302
P0303
P0306

So there is a random misfire, and a misfire on cylinders 2,3, and 6.

So idk if this is due to the plugs being fouled (they are the cheap copper ones that were just cleaned last week), or a fuel pressure problem, or a vacuum leak, or maybe my coilpacks or plugs are bad.... Anyone else had these codes and can help me out? This is the second time these codes have come back within a few weeks. My boost gauge would usually read 20 in vacuum during idle, now it reads about 16-17. Idk if this makes a difference