2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
06-23-14, 08:01 PM
#1816
Well guys she's seeing positive boost now 
.
Finally got the turbine housing clearance sorted out. The oil drain was the next hurdle I was having clearance issues with my oil drain and the ebay manifold. I ended up getting ahold of a custom hardpipe drain that was ran on LexusFTW's sc300 and it clears it great. Made some intercooler pipng and switched to a 4runner dist cap and fired her up.
I still need to properly mount the IAT bung and adjust a few odds and ends but it runs really good. I took it down the road and was pleasantly surprised by the sweet sounds of an open dumped 46mm wastegate again! Pulls really good too, can't wait to turn it up!
.Finally got the turbine housing clearance sorted out. The oil drain was the next hurdle I was having clearance issues with my oil drain and the ebay manifold. I ended up getting ahold of a custom hardpipe drain that was ran on LexusFTW's sc300 and it clears it great. Made some intercooler pipng and switched to a 4runner dist cap and fired her up.
I still need to properly mount the IAT bung and adjust a few odds and ends but it runs really good. I took it down the road and was pleasantly surprised by the sweet sounds of an open dumped 46mm wastegate again! Pulls really good too, can't wait to turn it up!
06-24-14, 04:50 PM
#1820
Well guys she's seeing positive boost now .
Finally got the turbine housing clearance sorted out. The oil drain was the next hurdle I was having clearance issues with my oil drain and the ebay manifold. I ended up getting ahold of a custom hardpipe drain that was ran on LexusFTW's sc300 and it clears it great. Made some intercooler pipng and switched to a 4runner dist cap and fired her up.
I still need to properly mount the IAT bung and adjust a few odds and ends but it runs really good. I took it down the road and was pleasantly surprised by the sweet sounds of an open dumped 46mm wastegate again! Pulls really good too, can't wait to turn it up!
.Finally got the turbine housing clearance sorted out. The oil drain was the next hurdle I was having clearance issues with my oil drain and the ebay manifold. I ended up getting ahold of a custom hardpipe drain that was ran on LexusFTW's sc300 and it clears it great. Made some intercooler pipng and switched to a 4runner dist cap and fired her up.
I still need to properly mount the IAT bung and adjust a few odds and ends but it runs really good. I took it down the road and was pleasantly surprised by the sweet sounds of an open dumped 46mm wastegate again! Pulls really good too, can't wait to turn it up!
06-24-14, 05:16 PM
#1822
yeah ecu can control it plug and play but you have to run all the extra wires. if you get a gte swap harness done for a sc300 that is a part of what they do to it is add the wires for the gte trans.
With a manual trans car you can pretty much get away with doing the mod without much codes.
On obd1 cars with auto ecu you dont get a CEL, you get the overdrive light blinking at you which is really minor.
On obd2 cars with auto thats the hardest cause it lights up the MIL (CEL) and will display trans codes like main engine codes, but some of the trans codes do not affect the emissions readiness codes, there is a list posted here somewhere that showed which ones do and don't.
With a manual trans car you can pretty much get away with doing the mod without much codes.
On obd1 cars with auto ecu you dont get a CEL, you get the overdrive light blinking at you which is really minor.
On obd2 cars with auto thats the hardest cause it lights up the MIL (CEL) and will display trans codes like main engine codes, but some of the trans codes do not affect the emissions readiness codes, there is a list posted here somewhere that showed which ones do and don't.
06-24-14, 06:43 PM
#1824
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Well...I put on manual boost controller, and it doesn't wanna boost at all now. It just misfires really rapidly like a machine gun. All I did was put a MBC in between the port on the turbo compressor housing and the side wastegate port.
I was so excited to finally boost at 10psi and now it sucks again. On top of that, I have a pretty decent oil leak still. Don't where it's coming from because it's covering everything.
Aaaand another thing, I can hear some of the exhaust coming out of the dump tube at idle. I am assuming I have that flange backwards?
I was planning to experiment with the tranny codes but I guess that will have to wait.
I was so excited to finally boost at 10psi and now it sucks again. On top of that, I have a pretty decent oil leak still. Don't where it's coming from because it's covering everything.
Aaaand another thing, I can hear some of the exhaust coming out of the dump tube at idle. I am assuming I have that flange backwards?
I was planning to experiment with the tranny codes but I guess that will have to wait.
Last edited by BuffNStuff; 06-24-14 at 06:46 PM.
06-24-14, 07:45 PM
#1825
Well...I put on manual boost controller, and it doesn't wanna boost at all now. It just misfires really rapidly like a machine gun. All I did was put a MBC in between the port on the turbo compressor housing and the side wastegate port.
I was so excited to finally boost at 10psi and now it sucks again. On top of that, I have a pretty decent oil leak still. Don't where it's coming from because it's covering everything.
Aaaand another thing, I can hear some of the exhaust coming out of the dump tube at idle. I am assuming I have that flange backwards?
I was planning to experiment with the tranny codes but I guess that will have to wait.
I was so excited to finally boost at 10psi and now it sucks again. On top of that, I have a pretty decent oil leak still. Don't where it's coming from because it's covering everything.
Aaaand another thing, I can hear some of the exhaust coming out of the dump tube at idle. I am assuming I have that flange backwards?
I was planning to experiment with the tranny codes but I guess that will have to wait.
I would definitely find the oil leak ASAP, check the fittings on the feed and drain, valve cover gasket and I'd even check the oil filter is on tight.
Are you sure its coming out of the dumptube? What size spring are you running? I would adjust the valve to tighten up, that's going to cause a slower spool time if there's a leak..
06-25-14, 02:37 PM
#1827
what kind of boost controller do you have a pic. maybe you connected it the wrong way that will do funny things usually overboost but it could freak out the stock ecu I guess.
Hard to know if you installed the flange backwards without actually checking, its the wastegate so its pretty important to get installed right. If exhaust is leaking out then its a real possibility and alot or people do get it backwards the first time. could also explain why you are boosting less than what the spring says.
normally, without the manual boost controller, the line going to the wastegate will put vacuum on it until you get into boost. If you have a leak there this will help you get into boost still is what I am thinking, but with the manual boost controller it does not let any vac through and boost only past the set amount so you don;t get help with the leak while you are building up to boost. I am not even sure this happens this exact way where the vac will help with a leak on the waste gate but really the only thing I can think of related to the boost controller it should not have any affect at all on the wastegate normally, but the thing that is changing is the wastegate sees nothing until the boost controller opens, which is different than when connected directly to the wastegate.
what side of the engine bay is the oil leak on? if its the turbo line its probably the feed especially if that whole area is covered and then it will also smoke it it gets on the turbo. If oil gets on your turbo cover if you have one, remove it or eventually that thing will catch on fire, same for manifold wraps, do not get oil on them = bad.
if its just under ont he passenger side and leaking over the back and bottom check the drain fitting, it often leaks there if not sealed right. valve cover gaskets and distributor o-ring are another.
when you say everywhere though, that makes me thing the feed line cause its high pressure.
Hard to know if you installed the flange backwards without actually checking, its the wastegate so its pretty important to get installed right. If exhaust is leaking out then its a real possibility and alot or people do get it backwards the first time. could also explain why you are boosting less than what the spring says.
normally, without the manual boost controller, the line going to the wastegate will put vacuum on it until you get into boost. If you have a leak there this will help you get into boost still is what I am thinking, but with the manual boost controller it does not let any vac through and boost only past the set amount so you don;t get help with the leak while you are building up to boost. I am not even sure this happens this exact way where the vac will help with a leak on the waste gate but really the only thing I can think of related to the boost controller it should not have any affect at all on the wastegate normally, but the thing that is changing is the wastegate sees nothing until the boost controller opens, which is different than when connected directly to the wastegate.
what side of the engine bay is the oil leak on? if its the turbo line its probably the feed especially if that whole area is covered and then it will also smoke it it gets on the turbo. If oil gets on your turbo cover if you have one, remove it or eventually that thing will catch on fire, same for manifold wraps, do not get oil on them = bad.
if its just under ont he passenger side and leaking over the back and bottom check the drain fitting, it often leaks there if not sealed right. valve cover gaskets and distributor o-ring are another.
when you say everywhere though, that makes me thing the feed line cause its high pressure.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-25-14 at 02:40 PM.
06-25-14, 04:50 PM
#1828
Lexus Test Driver
Buff, sorry to hear about your problems with the MBC, man. I have a MBC that pegs my boost at 10psi, and it seems to work fine.
So, here is another update on my car. The TPS issue was solved (i hope), the timing was adjusted by 2 degrees, my vacuum lines were flip flopped, so that was fixed, and now the car idles at around 800 rpm, and seems to drive better. However, i still have a breakup when boosting, around 4000rpm, and i'm being told its because my clutch is slipping. Would this cause the breakup? Its a brand new Southbend Stage 2+ that was installed about 500 miles ago or less. Idk how much power i'm making (stock HG, 3" exhaust) but it sucks that its slipping. It bites pretty low so i figured it was ok, but guess not....
So, here is another update on my car. The TPS issue was solved (i hope), the timing was adjusted by 2 degrees, my vacuum lines were flip flopped, so that was fixed, and now the car idles at around 800 rpm, and seems to drive better. However, i still have a breakup when boosting, around 4000rpm, and i'm being told its because my clutch is slipping. Would this cause the breakup? Its a brand new Southbend Stage 2+ that was installed about 500 miles ago or less. Idk how much power i'm making (stock HG, 3" exhaust) but it sucks that its slipping. It bites pretty low so i figured it was ok, but guess not....
06-25-14, 06:21 PM
#1829
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Yea it's not the feed line because it's only covered at the bottom half of the engine. I can't tell if it's the valve covers because I can't see the back of the engine. I bought new VC gaskets just in case. The return line is covered in oil but so are things 2 feet away from it like 2 transmission lines. Btw it only leaks if the engine is running. I think it even has to have been driven Because it doesn't seem to leak when I first start it up.
Can some one link a diagram or something of how they installed their wastegate? Mine is a 4 bolt HKS style one from Driftmotion. I remember there was a thick plate with a big/tall lip on it that I put between the manifold and the wastegate. It looked like there was only one way it went together but something isn't right.
The MBC I bought is from NXS. It's a ball and spring type. The side nipple goes to the wastegate and the one on the end goes to the compressor housing.
My tial BOV spring is an 8 psi spring. I think my vacuum is around 24.5. Is that spring too stiff? I remember I could barely move the valve with my fingers when I first got it. Defective?
Can some one link a diagram or something of how they installed their wastegate? Mine is a 4 bolt HKS style one from Driftmotion. I remember there was a thick plate with a big/tall lip on it that I put between the manifold and the wastegate. It looked like there was only one way it went together but something isn't right.
The MBC I bought is from NXS. It's a ball and spring type. The side nipple goes to the wastegate and the one on the end goes to the compressor housing.
My tial BOV spring is an 8 psi spring. I think my vacuum is around 24.5. Is that spring too stiff? I remember I could barely move the valve with my fingers when I first got it. Defective?
Last edited by BuffNStuff; 06-25-14 at 06:24 PM.
06-25-14, 07:23 PM
#1830
Yea it's not the feed line because it's only covered at the bottom half of the engine. I can't tell if it's the valve covers because I can't see the back of the engine. I bought new VC gaskets just in case. The return line is covered in oil but so are things 2 feet away from it like 2 transmission lines. Btw it only leaks if the engine is running. I think it even has to have been driven Because it doesn't seem to leak when I first start it up.
Can some one link a diagram or something of how they installed their wastegate? Mine is a 4 bolt HKS style one from Driftmotion. I remember there was a thick plate with a big/tall lip on it that I put between the manifold and the wastegate. It looked like there was only one way it went together but something isn't right.
The MBC I bought is from NXS. It's a ball and spring type. The side nipple goes to the wastegate and the one on the end goes to the compressor housing.
My tial BOV spring is an 8 psi spring. I think my vacuum is around 24.5. Is that spring too stiff? I remember I could barely move the valve with my fingers when I first got it. Defective?
Can some one link a diagram or something of how they installed their wastegate? Mine is a 4 bolt HKS style one from Driftmotion. I remember there was a thick plate with a big/tall lip on it that I put between the manifold and the wastegate. It looked like there was only one way it went together but something isn't right.
The MBC I bought is from NXS. It's a ball and spring type. The side nipple goes to the wastegate and the one on the end goes to the compressor housing.
My tial BOV spring is an 8 psi spring. I think my vacuum is around 24.5. Is that spring too stiff? I remember I could barely move the valve with my fingers when I first got it. Defective?
I would make sure you have the MBC plumbed correctly they usually do have an inlet and outlet. The backfiring you are experiencing could be actually fuel cut and the MBC has completely shut off the pressure to the wastegate. This would explain why you are having an idle exhaust leak through the wastegate as there is no vacuum to pull the wastegate valve shut to seal it at idle. I forget the proper method to adjust most ball and spring mbc's but I believe clockwise decreases boost pressure (allows more pressure through, counterclockwise increases pressure (decreases the amount of pressure allowed through the valve). If you have the MBC screwed out to far it is limiting the air to wastegate completely.
You need to degrease the block and clean it really good. Another way to pinpoint oil leaks is Toyota sells a dye additive that can be added to the oil and by using a blacklight you can pinpoint the leaks easier. I was having a terrible issue with the rear main seal on my car leaking, it would drip a ton while sitting there idling right at where the bell housing meets the block under the flywheel.
