ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Will this be an issue with 5spds?

BuffNStuff

If you use an Auto ECU then you will probably get the same trans CELs that I have. Other than that it should drive fine. If you have a manual transmission, just make it easier on yourself and get a tt manual trans ECU.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I have an odb1 we don't have that line or thing coming off the iac at all. its only on 96+, and If I were going turbo I would probably cap off the IAC and use an odb1 lower runner and odb1 injectors, or you really need injectors for an IS300 or vvti motor I want to say those have the same type of o-rings as the 96+ lower runner. I didn't find much info n the IS forums but I suspect they just use an odb1 lower runner to make all those issues go away.

There are 2 orings on the 96+ injectors and there is only one oring on the older injectors, which is why I asked for the picture but what confused me is you do have the odb1 injector in the odb2 rail with an oring there, but I wonder if the bottom oring is even on at all, and could be sucking fuel back up the intake or something funny who really knows, best to cap off both ends of that worthless hose and hope it improves. you may need new injectors even or older lower runner but try capping off first might do the trick.

Exactly, for 5 speeds just get the manual ecu and you won't have to worry about any of those codes at all.

BuffNStuff

You mentioned you have a obd2 runner. Is there any way you could post pictures of the difference between the obd1 and obd2 injector rails?

I capped off both ends of that hose at the throttle body and at the rail, and it didnt change anything. This thing just wants to run lean.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

Not too big of an issue, i've been daily driving the car for over a year now and it's fine.. just little loose ends im finally fixing

BuffNStuff

I was looking up the differences in injectors for sc300s, and apparently they didnt change injector style until 10/1997. My car was built in 10/1996, so I think that means I am supposed to use the same injector style as obd1 guys. I will post a pic of my stock injectors in a bit.

BuffNStuff

I took off the tps and reinstalled it to make sure it was on correctly. I noticed that the sensor didn't feel tight. Like when adjusting it on the throttle body, you can tell the difference between the sensor moving inside it's seat, and the sensor actually rotating correctly. The sensor seems to not fit perfectly in the hole. There is some play in it.

Another thing I noticed, is that something is definitely happening when it warms up that snaps the ecu into making the car run poorly. I was watching the timing as it warmed up. It started out at about 11* and it slowly climbed up to 16 and then BAM, I felt the car change how it was running and the scanner said it was at 27*. That's when it goes lean. I assume this is when the ecu changes to closed loop? Do you think there could be a problem with the O2 sensors? Running lean on a stock ecu has to mean a failure somewhere right? The ECU SHOULD be trying to correct the lean condition. Or at the very least, recognize its running lean and throw a code.

Here is is a picture of the stock injector I had in my 1997.

BuffNStuff

I think I found something. I think on the USDM TT ECU, the IACV needs metered air from the intake, after the MAF.

I found this:

"What are you doing about idle air control?

The USDM uses a valve controlled by the ECU, a very common error people make who've gone single on a stock ECU/MAF car is to disconnect the post-MAF air feed into the IACV. "

"This is your problem. You *have* to use metered air post-MAF as the source for the IACV.

Connect the IACV through an appropriate length of tubing to the airstream after the MAF has already measured it.

It worked using the AEM because the AEM is speed/density. "

"Air entering the engine via the filter on the idle air control valve is NOT being measured by the MAF, i.e you are bypassing the MAF.

All air consumed by the engine must be measured by the MAF to ensure the correct amount of fuel is injected.

You won't have to worry about unmetered air via the IACV if you use the MAP ECU. "

"Well I ran some washing machine rubber drain hose from IACV to intake. I used a copper reducer (3/4" to 1/2") and attached a 1/2" stock intake hose from fitting to intake nipple. Its HomeDepot bootleg, but it accomplished the goal. car is now idling much lower 700RPM-ish and A/F has droppe to a rather rich condition of 12.2-14.6 I didnt get a chance to let the car warm up properly an come up to normal operating temp, due to pouring rain here. but it seem much better. Im going to connect my primary o2 sensor tomorrow (weather permitting)
"

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ont-idle-right

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That isn't it, on the GE its built into the throttle body so its all metered air. you do need to make sure the line on the passenger valve cover connects post maf on the turbo intake pipe and gets metered air. this air goes through the pcv on the drivers side and into the intake. leaky valve cover gaskets will also suck in unmetered air via the pcv.

maybe you just need to take out some timing with the distributor till it sounds better. 27 degrees is a bit much for idle on a GE and that could be why it can't recover from the lean condition, timing will affect the AFR and in another case if you have a few misfires it can also register as lean when it isn't because of the extra o2 in the stream. does it seem to knock or even be happy at that timing or does it generally sound bad when it goes to 27? and also when you jumper it it changes to 10 now right?
If it sounds healthy and its just a lean thing then it may be the injector thing I had talked about. if it sounds bad like a boat and idle is not stable then I would say the timing might be off somehow. I am not sure what the value on that scanner exactly represents.

that 97 injector pictured is the one I as mentioning with the other oring. I have a spare 96 motor and it has the same injectors and o-rings, so I would check your stock injectors since you have that pipe on your intake I would guess you have those double o-ring injectors as pictured also. This could also affect the AFR.

*edit* I looked at your picture of the injector again and I think the O-ring is just sitting on top of the runner, I am pretty sure it is not installed correctly and you could have a leak there which would explain things.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

see the oring looks like its just sitting on top here. Likely they were not sure how it went together because its the wrong type of injector, I just recently learned the difference in the odb1 vs odb2 injectors myself.

BuffNStuff

Not that I am doubting you or anything, you CLEARLY know much more about all this than I do, but I am trying to understand how this would make my A/F ratio good at start up and in gear, but horribly lean when warm/in park.

injector O-ring leaks are basically vacuum leaks right? Shouldnt this cause problems right at start up, and in all engine loads?

Also, I do have a hose going from the passenger side valve cover to my post-MAF intake, and also the small vacuum hose that connects the intake to a vacuum port on the very front passenger side below the distrubutor.

Okay so it is confirmed then that I have the wrong injectors? Could you post a pic of the style of injector I need? that injector I posted is MY stock injector. The one above is my old one, and these are the ones I have installed.

What am I checking for? Should I reconnect the hose to my throttlebody, seeing as how it didnt change anything?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

leaks tend to have wierd affects when the motor is least loaded. usually when you get some load on there like putting it in gear the leak will be less noticeable or the ecu can compensate more. I can't explain exactly why you are experiencing it but I can tell you that you have the wrong injectors. If I had known before I would have steered you clear but It is something that we missed.

Those Oside Tiger are odb1 injectors. They have a larger single oring at the bottom.
you can see how your stock ones had a smaller oring at the bottom, and a larger one on the top that is missing in your picture of your stock injector.

I cannot see how those could seal properly at all, and I suggest they be inspected as with fuel and leaks something disasterous could happen and you don't want to loose your car. The person installing these should have caught the injectors not fitting properly, there is really no excuse for that. because of their laziness we have to troubleshoot the simplest of things twice.

The air hose should be deleted and/or you need odb2 injectors, or an odb1 lower runner.
I would recommend the odb1 lower runner, but you will have a lot of stuff to pull off the motor to change those out. Seems like the right thing to do though or see if there are is300 specific injectors in 550cc.

also the small vac hose going to the hard line by the distributor, you should have the other side of that hardline which comes out on the drivers side connected to the power steering, and then to the intake.
Some forget about the other side of the hardline you cannot just leave it open so leave drivers side of it like stock or cap it off.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

this is what the stock odb1 one looks like and then a vvti on the right.
you can see how the odb2 (your stock one) is shaped like the vvti and have the same orings just are metal instead of plastic.
You can also see how the Oside tiger ones resemble the same as the stock odb1 o-ring.

you can also see that larger oring on the plastic one, looks like they took that and stretched it on the fat part of the odb1 injector, and tmanaged to squeeze it into the plenum. While that upper one may seal the air part of the rail, the lower orning can not possibly be on correctly because that lower odb2 oring would be too small to fit on the odb1 injector, and the odb1 oring probably wont fit perfect in the odb2 runner, so the lower part where the fuel goes into the air stream has a leak into the iacv portion where that hose comes from.


As I said, you can try capping both sides of that line off and hope the top orings seal the fuel and air still, but there is a chance it might not seal that well at all. In that case you need odb2 inejctors or odb1 lower runners.
was it you that mentioned there were initially some injector sealing issues or was that mylexsc400?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

OK, I think this will fix the torque converter lock up on odb1 automatics, which is the trans code they get when doing the JDM mod.

Its eerily similar to the a/c fix, so I copied that and modified it.


Radio shack part # 275-233
It's called SPST 12 volt dc Reed Relay rated 0.5A 125VAC that's what it says on the box

First you locate the pin for the torque converter lock up at the ecu. If you have a 2jzge harness is will be in pin B 8 where connector B is the large 80 pin connector.

First thing you need to do is move this pin to B 14 because that is where it is on the GTE ecu.
Then we need to cut the wire for this pin about 6" from the ECM, so now you have one part going into he ECM and one away.

Then locate ecu pin A 32 (smaller 40 pin connector) which is to tap in to supply power for relay.
You may have already tapped into this wire for the a/c relay fix, you can use the same power wire for both relays.

Here is how to hook it up, Going off of the picture above.

Top pin gets hooked up to power ( got mine from e-10 pin A 32)

Left middle pin gets hooked up to Lock up at trans ( ecu pin B 14 (which is the half of the wire that was cut going AWAY from the ecu)

Right middle pin gets hooked up to acc power ( e-10 pin 32 again)

Bottom single pin gets hooked lock up at ECM ( which is the half of the wire that was cut going INTO from the ecu)

Now just clean up everything and shrink wrap all the the connections after it's been tested and enjoy your now working Torque converter lockup

187

wow, I had no idea they made that change to the motor. Does that mean anyone with a 97 needs vvti style injectors?