Ticking noise from the engine.
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 906
Likes: 6
From: California
Ticking noise from the engine.
Lately my engine started to have this ticking noise, it happens after long drive, you can hear it mostly at idle. Seems like the sound is coming from the valvetrain. I just took the video, what do you guy think it might be? Btw I'm in CA and always use 91 octane gas, car has 106k miles, oil was changed 3k miles ago.
Here's the link (switch to HQ to hear good audio):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcuzsSxu34s
Here's the link (switch to HQ to hear good audio):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcuzsSxu34s
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i had a noise like that a few months back.and like you the car ran fine i had a total tune up done before the noise showed up.anyway check your cam gear bolts they may need tightening.take the cover of- with two wrenches tighten the bolts, no more noise check it again after you tightened it.shop almost got me said i may need new engine.good luck.pm me if you need to and let me know how it turns out before you spend money.
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 906
Likes: 6
From: California
i had a noise like that a few months back.and like you the car ran fine i had a total tune up done before the noise showed up.anyway check your cam gear bolts they may need tightening.take the cover of- with two wrenches tighten the bolts, no more noise check it again after you tightened it.shop almost got me said i may need new engine.good luck.pm me if you need to and let me know how it turns out before you spend money.
I have heard somewhere, I believe on Lextreme, that the ticking is normal. Mine ticks also, but it drives normal. I aint going to worry about it, unless its starts eating up and spitting out oil. Lets us know what you find out.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: MI
interesting.
I have a couple theories about this noise. I have yet to see somebody pin point it exactly or discover any negative repercussions.
Both the 1jzgte's in my Supra and my SC300 make this noise. It CAN be a valve shim clearance issue. BUT--I have BC 272 cams in my Supra and stock cams in my SC and those both make the noise when cold starting. And of course I have checked the shims in both engines multiple times at varrying temperatures. Yet the noise persists. Therefore I rule out a tappet clearance issue.
Oiling system. A couple things about this. I noticed when I ran standard dino oil (valvoline 1030) the noise was subtle and didn't persist as long. I then changed it to mobil 1 and HOLY HELL did the noise ever get louder. Drained that crap and put in royal purple 1030 - the noise almost went away completely but this oil also wiped out the aft bearing and labrynth seal on my turbo because it coaks up like a son of a ***** in harsh conditions (even more than crappy walmart oil). Before I put the Supra away for the winter I was running castrol full syn and the noise is subtle and all seems well. I've only had my 1jz SC up and running for about a month and I'm using castrol syn as well in that. The noise is EXACTLY as your video and goes away once warmed up. That is to say, theres just a little valvetrain noise once it's warmed up like any other JZ engine. I think the oiling system might be incapable of providing adequate volume to the valvetrain during cold conditions. This hurts nothing providing you dont start your car do neutral drops.
My last theory is piston slap. Cast pistons are less prone to it than forged which is why the OE uses them (aside from obvious cost differences). Essentially the piston skirt smacks the cylinder wall(bore) after the combustion process. This is caused by the increased tolerance between the piston and the cylinder wall due to the coefficient of expansion differences between cast aluminum and cast iron. Once the pistons swell to their intended operating temperature they take up the extra tolerance and the noise goes away. This is what I think it is in conclusion. Sorry for the rambling...too much coffee today.
PS - don't worrie about your bottom end - it's fine.
Both the 1jzgte's in my Supra and my SC300 make this noise. It CAN be a valve shim clearance issue. BUT--I have BC 272 cams in my Supra and stock cams in my SC and those both make the noise when cold starting. And of course I have checked the shims in both engines multiple times at varrying temperatures. Yet the noise persists. Therefore I rule out a tappet clearance issue.
Oiling system. A couple things about this. I noticed when I ran standard dino oil (valvoline 1030) the noise was subtle and didn't persist as long. I then changed it to mobil 1 and HOLY HELL did the noise ever get louder. Drained that crap and put in royal purple 1030 - the noise almost went away completely but this oil also wiped out the aft bearing and labrynth seal on my turbo because it coaks up like a son of a ***** in harsh conditions (even more than crappy walmart oil). Before I put the Supra away for the winter I was running castrol full syn and the noise is subtle and all seems well. I've only had my 1jz SC up and running for about a month and I'm using castrol syn as well in that. The noise is EXACTLY as your video and goes away once warmed up. That is to say, theres just a little valvetrain noise once it's warmed up like any other JZ engine. I think the oiling system might be incapable of providing adequate volume to the valvetrain during cold conditions. This hurts nothing providing you dont start your car do neutral drops.
My last theory is piston slap. Cast pistons are less prone to it than forged which is why the OE uses them (aside from obvious cost differences). Essentially the piston skirt smacks the cylinder wall(bore) after the combustion process. This is caused by the increased tolerance between the piston and the cylinder wall due to the coefficient of expansion differences between cast aluminum and cast iron. Once the pistons swell to their intended operating temperature they take up the extra tolerance and the noise goes away. This is what I think it is in conclusion. Sorry for the rambling...too much coffee today.
PS - don't worrie about your bottom end - it's fine.
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 906
Likes: 6
From: California
I have a couple theories about this noise. I have yet to see somebody pin point it exactly or discover any negative repercussions.
Both the 1jzgte's in my Supra and my SC300 make this noise. It CAN be a valve shim clearance issue. BUT--I have BC 272 cams in my Supra and stock cams in my SC and those both make the noise when cold starting. And of course I have checked the shims in both engines multiple times at varrying temperatures. Yet the noise persists. Therefore I rule out a tappet clearance issue.
Oiling system. A couple things about this. I noticed when I ran standard dino oil (valvoline 1030) the noise was subtle and didn't persist as long. I then changed it to mobil 1 and HOLY HELL did the noise ever get louder. Drained that crap and put in royal purple 1030 - the noise almost went away completely but this oil also wiped out the aft bearing and labrynth seal on my turbo because it coaks up like a son of a ***** in harsh conditions (even more than crappy walmart oil). Before I put the Supra away for the winter I was running castrol full syn and the noise is subtle and all seems well. I've only had my 1jz SC up and running for about a month and I'm using castrol syn as well in that. The noise is EXACTLY as your video and goes away once warmed up. That is to say, theres just a little valvetrain noise once it's warmed up like any other JZ engine. I think the oiling system might be incapable of providing adequate volume to the valvetrain during cold conditions. This hurts nothing providing you dont start your car do neutral drops.
My last theory is piston slap. Cast pistons are less prone to it than forged which is why the OE uses them (aside from obvious cost differences). Essentially the piston skirt smacks the cylinder wall(bore) after the combustion process. This is caused by the increased tolerance between the piston and the cylinder wall due to the coefficient of expansion differences between cast aluminum and cast iron. Once the pistons swell to their intended operating temperature they take up the extra tolerance and the noise goes away. This is what I think it is in conclusion. Sorry for the rambling...too much coffee today.
PS - don't worrie about your bottom end - it's fine.
Both the 1jzgte's in my Supra and my SC300 make this noise. It CAN be a valve shim clearance issue. BUT--I have BC 272 cams in my Supra and stock cams in my SC and those both make the noise when cold starting. And of course I have checked the shims in both engines multiple times at varrying temperatures. Yet the noise persists. Therefore I rule out a tappet clearance issue.
Oiling system. A couple things about this. I noticed when I ran standard dino oil (valvoline 1030) the noise was subtle and didn't persist as long. I then changed it to mobil 1 and HOLY HELL did the noise ever get louder. Drained that crap and put in royal purple 1030 - the noise almost went away completely but this oil also wiped out the aft bearing and labrynth seal on my turbo because it coaks up like a son of a ***** in harsh conditions (even more than crappy walmart oil). Before I put the Supra away for the winter I was running castrol full syn and the noise is subtle and all seems well. I've only had my 1jz SC up and running for about a month and I'm using castrol syn as well in that. The noise is EXACTLY as your video and goes away once warmed up. That is to say, theres just a little valvetrain noise once it's warmed up like any other JZ engine. I think the oiling system might be incapable of providing adequate volume to the valvetrain during cold conditions. This hurts nothing providing you dont start your car do neutral drops.
My last theory is piston slap. Cast pistons are less prone to it than forged which is why the OE uses them (aside from obvious cost differences). Essentially the piston skirt smacks the cylinder wall(bore) after the combustion process. This is caused by the increased tolerance between the piston and the cylinder wall due to the coefficient of expansion differences between cast aluminum and cast iron. Once the pistons swell to their intended operating temperature they take up the extra tolerance and the noise goes away. This is what I think it is in conclusion. Sorry for the rambling...too much coffee today.
PS - don't worrie about your bottom end - it's fine.
Pole Position
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 280
Likes: 1
From: california
my sc300 has a similar noise but not as bad but only when engine is cold, just recently starting doing that, it has 185k now and it is probly due for a valve adjustment and ive been running mobil1 10w30, i might switch to a 0w40 weight. THe head is coming off soon for NA-T though