Well it seems the indestructible 1jz has finally blown on me. I had just put the car all together running decently with the 67mm + cams and a bunch of new parts i added. It only ran for 3 weeks.

The past week it was running a little rough, and stalling when pushing the clutch in, the clutch pedal was vibrating. it just felt weird to drive. I went to drive home from Tampa so i could work on the car and see what was wrong, and all i herd was knock knock knock. Thats never a good sign. Unsure of what was wrong i called and got the car towed back to Gainesville, to my dads shop where we work on the car.

Getting my car on a tow truck was a little hassle but easier than i expected. took the bumper off and raised the coils up and it went on easy.

I took the motor apart last night and found the thrust bearings in the oil pan, crank is screwed, block is screwed. Sad day pulling apart the motor yesterday.

I am glad i kept my GE block its 1.5jz time.

Pictures will be up later, the camera is still at the shop.

 

dam that sucks man, only 3 weeks too. >_< GL wit ur new set up though!

Peace out

 

Something similar happened to m frieands SC3 (lexcoupe), but he has a NA-t setup. His clutch was too strong for the GE block and he ended up with crank walk. He replaced it with a GTE block and it was fine. GL.

 

make sure to remember some good info on the 1.5jz, i might be headed down that path soon.

 

I remember when we talked on AIM and you were first getting started with your car Sorry we never got to meet up while I was still at UF. Keep us updated on how the 1.5 swap goes!

 

Damn dude. And I just saw it too. I hope everything goes well!

 

Ive seen 2j's getting crank walk too .I guess some those aftermarket pressure plate and clutch kits dont agree with the jz engines too well .What clutch setup you had?

 

Here are some random pics i took with the camera, didn't take to many picture as you can see.

Pulling the motor out



no more 1jz


mmm nothign like pieces of metal in the oil pan(the thrust bearings were in there also but already took out before i could get a picture)



another random one


I should be tearing apart the 2jz tomorrow and going to order new seals and redo the bottom end this week.

 

inconvience but it'll be a nice upgrade


i plan on holding my GE block for the same reason once i go 1j

 

what kind of clutch were you using? this is a common problem if you have a very stiff clutch and an old bottom end. this could happen to any motor. if you have a very stiff pressure plate it will exert a lot of force on the thrust washers. if the throwout bearing does not get adjusted correctly it can ride the clutch a bit and cause premature failure. ive seen this type of thing happen on a lot of 4ag atlantic motors that did not have the throwout bearing shimmed properly. the crank is gone.

when you take apart the bottom end take pictures of the block and crank. the crank is definitely damaged but the block might still be okay.

keep us updated.

btw it has nothing to do with whether its a GE or GTE bottom end. except for oil squirters, and turbo feed lines all the geometry is identical. saying the GTE block is stronger is an ignorant statement.

 

What kind of clutch setup were you using?

Ive had the same thing happen after getting a car running.

 

I read this and it made me sick. I hope I don’t have CW. I got a V160 with an RPS Carbon claw dual pressure clutch. My invoice also says new pressure plate PN#31210-14170, shows as clutch cover for 94 tt supra.

I sense the clutch pedal occasionally does not fully return out quickly. Sometimes I feel a vibration on the pedal when the clutch is engaging. (when the pedal is coming back up)

I’m at 400-430whp depending on my settings and under boost I hear a slight knock.

Any Ideas.???? Is it CW?

I have the clutch kill done so i can start with no clutch in but never knew why it was done that way. the car was an auto when I got it and I had it converted to the 6 speed.

I was getting ready to drop the tranny and see if anything was wrong with the clutch assy. (Note: the trans has always had a noisy input shaft bearing. a whiny noise when the clutch is disengaged. no noise when you push the clutch in and the trans has a slow leak on the rear main seal) Never been a big deal i just check the trans fluid and top it off every 4 month or so.

I don't see any unusual belt wear.

 

Disable the sink the clutch start option should help.

 

^^^^ if I can explain why. You don't want to crank a engine over w/
a heavy clutch engauged. When the engine is running, the crank floats
on oil between the bearings. When cranking (low/ no oil pressure) w/
clutch engauged the crank is shoved up against the thrust bearings.
That continued process w/ every start up, eats up the thrust bearings
& eventual crank walk when the bearing spits out.

So as Dew said, bypass the clutch inhibit switch so you can start
W/O pushing in the clutch.

 

^^^^ i also did it because i have a remote start in my car

i never start the car with the clutch pressed in. its always in neutral.