jadu

iTrader: (42)

Golf007, MDSC, if I did my math correctly, the resulting width is correct 18x11.5, but the offset I got is not -3. I calculated an offset of +22, which is definitely easier to fit than -3. As for the offset calculation, adding 2 inches of lip doesn't equate to -50 mm, but half of that. The center of the wheel shifts when adding more lip (i.e. wheel center @ 9.5 is at 4.75 and wheel center at 11.5 changes to 5.75), and the offset change is half. So 2" * 25.4 = 50.8 mm / 2 = 25.4. So 47-25.4 = 21.6, so roughly +22 mm

jadu

iTrader: (42)

the offset would probably be your biggest concern. You're highly unlikely to rub if you're not dropped. I'd look into getting a 245/40 or 255/40 tire but test fit it first to size your tire accordingly. You may be able to run a wider tire if you want

golf007

iTrader: (1)

thanks JADU, talk to tony (the guy that do the fender rolling) he said it will fit but will need and negative camber +roll + pull my fender. so thank you you guys for an helpful info

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

I was more concerned with if it would now rub at this height because there will be no tuck. Should I get it rolled, shaved, a bit O' camber? I'm trying to guess what my next move will be.

Thanks Jadu!

kinch09

iTrader: (10)

OK I need some help on tire sizing. I just bought a set of 20 x 10 +15 and 20 x 11 +25. Would I be good running 245 30 and 275 30 with fenders rolled with a little pull? I'm sure I'll need to adjust the camber.

With my 19s the tires sit right at my fender well. With the 20s I plan on lowering it a little more

Thanks for any help

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Hi,
Will a roll of pull make these fit correctly? Will I need camber. I am dropping it next week.
Note rub damage on tire driven one mile after mounting.

jadu

iTrader: (42)

yw. make it fit lol

jadu

iTrader: (42)

In all honesty, the absolute easiest thing to do is to remove the spacers. The individuals who roll/pull/camber/stretch tires to avoid rubbing do it because it is the only way to get their wheels to fit. I'd understand if your wheels had that low of an offset to begin with, it would be mandatory to roll/pull/camber/stretch tires to get it to fit.

In the event that your adamant of leaving the spacers on, yes, a roll/slight pull and camber would suffice. If you dont wanna run excessive camber, stretch the tire a bit

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

That is surely the easiest way LOL
However I am re-lipping/barreling the Works to be huge, and perhaps buying some XXR wheels with a Nice offset for the winter. I am going to need the roll/pull anyway. The spacers are kind of a steppingstone/test fitting tool.

Thanks

Duck05

Advice/opinion on 20x8.5 with 245/35/20 +37 all around.... Above I was advised that an 8 with a 245 would not look that good and to reduce to a 235. Would like to keep the wider stance if the front turning is not impaired. Still on stock suspension.

After reading posts 4444 and 4555 (great job, BTW), while a lot more educated (some say more "confused) now the trade offs and options are starting to multiply. Considered a staggered set but that invites different lip sizes and takes away from a symmetrical look (IMO).

Bounced between 18, 19, and now 20s for rims; with the body kit the larger wheels seem to hold up fine with 20s.

raine

iTrader: (7)

235 on an 8.5 is almost square to begin with, so a 245 on an 8 would have some chunk to it. It all depends on the look you want to achieve.

You're welcome for posts #4444 and #4555; a lot of questions posted in this thread could have been avoided if people just read those two post first

And you're absolutely right - the pros/cons and options are a lot more than most people think... wheel diameter, wheel width, wheel offset, tire width, tire sidewall height, camber setting, fender modifications, vehicle ride height - everything has to be considered. You'd be surprised how many people ask straight up "what's your exact wheel/tire/offset spec" and expect it to look exactly the same on their car - when it takes a lot more work than that!

A staggered set is popular because it enhances the fact that the SC is a RWD vehicle, similar to how most RWD performance vehicles use larger rear tires. Also you have to realize that the rear fender area and space is a lot larger than the front so a staggered wheel setup is ideal; to get the same "even" fitment using identical wheel widths front/rear would mean that you'd have to get different offsets front/rear so that all four sit at about the same spot under the fenders - thus your +37 all around would actually make your rear wheels sit further in compared to the front, making the rear of your car look like it has thinner wheels because it's sunken in more.

IMO - 18's good for stock ride height or mild lowered stock body... or for those who want to slam the crap out of their ride to look cool and say "hey bro, my car is lower" (LOL) but with a body kit they end up looking to proportionally too small from side view since the body kit makes the wheel well area look larger.

...19's work great with a body kit. 19's also fill a stock lowered body nice, without looking too big for the SC's side profile as long as you get a proportional tire size to match.

...20's look too big for stock body, work good with an aggressive body kit if done right - but if done wrong (wrong offset, wrong width, wrong ride height, etc.) they get that steamroller look

again - that's all IMO, before other people get all offended

Duck05

Thanks for the detailed reply and analysis.

You are hitting on exactly why it has been so difficult to pull the trigger on what wheels and tires to go with. This is my "project" car but I am not a DIYer so this forum and these threads are a ton of information to digest and then have to find reliable shops to do the work and get the result(s) has been a journey.

Your answer/input now convinces me that maybe a staggered option is more appropriate and that having different tire sizes, wheel sizes, and lip sizes is the "right" approach (even though I am not doing an engine swap or seeking 5xx hp) for the look I am heading towards.

I did get a bit confused between the two posts as one seems to say "don't buy wheels and tires" until you lower your car first and the other says buy the wheels and tires and then lower your car and make adjustments to fit (which I now believe is the correct move after re-reading both posts).

Coil overs for lowering, suspension upgrades/fixes, and BBK are in the future so getting the wheels/tires I want and then adjusting onto to them makes sense based on your write-ups.

So look for yet another set of options seeking advice. Something like an 19x8 with 235/35 +37 front and 19x9.5 +44 with 265/35 rears (I know, slightly higher than the front). Despite the difficulty this is educational and fun to go through this process.....

Thanks again and keep the good advice and feedback coming to all of the members....

Vasiliyd

Alright so i need your guys help with trying to figure out exactly what size spacers i would need to go for the hellaflush look. Below is info on my wheels specs.

Front: 19x8.5 +35 235/35/19
Rear: 19x9.5 +38 255/35/19
Fenders are rolled and i will be dropping the car lower, and stretching 215/35 for the front and 235/35 in the rear. Plan is to lower it to about 5mm from fender and rim lip touching.

raine

iTrader: (7)

Stagger is better IMO because it only makes sense - if you have a medium sized front fender well and a larger, wider rear fender well, why not fill them up right? Plus - you're buying a whole new set of wheels and tires, why not get what works with the chassis/fender opening?
That said - same goes for offset. Again - you're buying a whole new set of wheels and tires, so it makes more sense to buy a set with the right offset (or closest to what you want) rather than get some low-cost combo package and then spacer it up to "make" it fit how you want it.

Personally the correct move in a perfect world would be to get the wheels, tires, and suspension at the same time - but that's a chunk of money, so i usually recommend getting the suspension first so you can run the car slightly lower (not slammed on stocks, that looks super battleship). That also gives you more time to figure out the wheel and tire selection, then when you get the wheels/tires you're ready to go. The other method would involve riding at stock height on aftermarket wheels - and if your ultimate goal is the flush look, those wheels at stock ride height will actually stick out beyond the fender and look pretty lame IMO

Oh - I saw that you mentioned BBK - if BBK is in the plan for sure, make sure your wheels have clearance on the inside as well. I know - yet another detail to figure out, but realistically if it was that easy to get the right fitment then there would be no super duper long forum threads like this!

that new setup you posted is very mild but should fit fine with little (if any) fender work unless you want to go really low. Just don't expect the "hella flush" look.

raine

iTrader: (7)

I'd try a 15mm front/20mm rear, but you're most likely going to have to pull all fours or else you'll screw up the wheel lip and fender the moment you hop a big bump