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OK, so ive been searching and searching... all i see is everyone running wheels/offsets outside fenders.... i am looking for some flush fitment help here. i think i found what may be flush but not sure with the tires (do not want to stretch and will be keeping a finger or 2 gap)
OK, so ive been searching and searching... all i see is everyone running wheels/offsets outside fenders.... i am looking for some flush fitment help here. i think i found what may be flush but not sure with the tires (do not want to stretch and will be keeping a finger or 2 gap)
19x8.5 +30 235/35/19
19x9.5 +22 265/35/19
You should be fine with those tire sizes if you have rolled fenders. You could go even wider with the right suspension setup.
I have a '97 SC300 5-speed which is used as a daily driver. I just put a new set of Michelin Premier A/S 225/55R16 95V tires on her (on sale at costco), replacing a set of quite old Bridgestone Potenza Grid something-something tires. It's like having a new car - I'd actually been somewhat reluctant to drive the car because I didn't like how she felt on the road anymore, and now I realize that it was the tires.
Just wanted to make the comment that the Michelins are pretty sweet.
They will be going on my Soarer which is on full air suspension. I am looking to tuck when aired out. The fronts will be rolled and the rears were shaved by the previous owner. Looking at doing the following:
19 x 9 +24ish
19 x 10 + 22ish
My main question is about what disk to go with? Also would anyone suggest any other offsets or advice?
If you have or ever plan on upgrading the front brakes, then go Hyper disk in the front. If you're okay with the stock brakes, then go normal disk.
In the front of our cars you can only tuck tire when aired out. In the rear you can tuck rim. If I was to do air again and looking at the same wheels as you, I'd be looking at
19x9 + 10 Hyper disk
19x10 + 18 Super low disk
The offsets you chose will look nice at a static ride height, but once you air out the wheels camber in, so they have to be wider to look cool aired out.
If you have or ever plan on upgrading the front brakes, then go Hyper disk in the front. If you're okay with the stock brakes, then go normal disk.
In the front of our cars you can only tuck tire when aired out. In the rear you can tuck rim. If I was to do air again and looking at the same wheels as you, I'd be looking at
19x9 + 10 Hyper disk
19x10 + 18 Super low disk
The offsets you chose will look nice at a static ride height, but once you air out the wheels camber in, so they have to be wider to look cool aired out.
Thanks for the the response Blkexcoupe - Have been following your build pretty much since day 1! I have some LS400 calipers I'll probably throw on.
Do you think at normal driving height I'll have a "poked" look? What tire sizes would you suggest? Not looking to mess with camber settings at all if possible.
Thanks for the the response Blkexcoupe - Have been following your build pretty much since day 1! I have some LS400 calipers I'll probably throw on.
Do you think at normal driving height I'll have a "poked" look? What tire sizes would you suggest? Not looking to mess with camber settings at all if possible.
It's going to poke a little in the rear and a little more in the front, but it'll look good once aired out.
Fronts, I would be looking at a 235/35/19 and rears 255/35/19
It's been a long time since I've bought wheels for a SC so I wanted someone to check my math a bit. I'm still at stock height right now and will probably get the wheels sorted out before I start on suspension mods. I had 19x9.5 +35 on the back of my 95 years ago. I had to roll the fenders completely flat and do a slight pull to get them to fit because I ran a really wide 285/35 tire and no extra camber. The wheels I'm looking at now for the back are 20x10.5 +40, if my math is right that means they'll poke out 7mm or 8mm more than the 9.5s. Is that correct?
Also, how much negative camber can I run before it starts chewing up the tires and handling poorly? I don't really like the cambered out look but if a degree means not having to pull the fenders as much I could live with it.
Another thing, does anyone have a picture of or has anyone seen an SC running 18s in the front and 20s in the rear? I ran 18s and 19s on my 95 and wanted to run 19s and 20s on my new car but the wheels I want don't come in 19s. I'm not sure about a 20 in the front because it limits how low I can go, I like the back up a bit so the 20s there aren't as big an issue.
It's been a long time since I've bought wheels for a SC so I wanted someone to check my math a bit. I'm still at stock height right now and will probably get the wheels sorted out before I start on suspension mods. I had 19x9.5 +35 on the back of my 95 years ago. I had to roll the fenders completely flat and do a slight pull to get them to fit because I ran a really wide 285/35 tire and no extra camber. The wheels I'm looking at now for the back are 20x10.5 +40, if my math is right that means they'll poke out 7mm or 8mm more than the 9.5s. Is that correct?
Also, how much negative camber can I run before it starts chewing up the tires and handling poorly? I don't really like the cambered out look but if a degree means not having to pull the fenders as much I could live with it.
Another thing, does anyone have a picture of or has anyone seen an SC running 18s in the front and 20s in the rear? I ran 18s and 19s on my 95 and wanted to run 19s and 20s on my new car but the wheels I want don't come in 19s. I'm not sure about a 20 in the front because it limits how low I can go, I like the back up a bit so the 20s there aren't as big an issue.
Here's a pic if my old car just because.
J
It's weird that you had to do a pull to run a 285 on a 9.5+35. It should have cleared with minimal issues if your suspension was setup properly. Yes, your new wheels will extend 8mm more.
I ran a 285 Michelin pilot sport on a 10.5 +36 on my HKS coils with -2.1 degrees of camber at the time and those rear tires lasted roughly 4.5-5k miles. I have 275 Sumitomo tires now on the same wheels with KW coilovers, -2.5 degrees of camber now, and I'm expecting it to last around 6.5k-7k miles because of the difference in tire compound. My car is a little lower now, so the stock arms are maxed out for camber correction.
Anything north of -1.3 degrees is going to start wearing funny on the street. I would say -2.2 is the sweet spot for handling in the rear.
It's weird that you had to do a pull to run a 285 on a 9.5+35. It should have cleared with minimal issues if your suspension was setup properly. Yes, your new wheels will extend 8mm more.
I ran a 285 Michelin pilot sport on a 10.5 +36 on my HKS coils with -2.1 degrees of camber at the time and those rear tires lasted roughly 4.5-5k miles. I have 275 Sumitomo tires now on the same wheels with KW coilovers, -2.5 degrees of camber now, and I'm expecting it to last around 6.5k-7k miles because of the difference in tire compound. My car is a little lower now, so the stock arms are maxed out for camber correction.
Anything north of -1.3 degrees is going to start wearing funny on the street. I would say -2.2 is the sweet spot for handling in the rear.
I forgot to mention the green car was down on Tanabe springs too. I'm also 6'3" and a little over 4 bill's so the suspension on my side needs some room to travel. I was also hitting something with the inside of the tires that dug a big gouge around them down to the cords.
I've been reading your build thread and have questions. I was thinking about looking into bags but you didn't like the ride on air, are there other air setups available? I really like the idea of being able to drive around at a nonscrapy height but still get low when needed.
I forgot to mention the green car was down on Tanabe springs too. I'm also 6'3" and a little over 4 bill's so the suspension on my side needs some room to travel. I was also hitting something with the inside of the tires that dug a big gouge around them down to the cords.
I've been reading your build thread and have questions. I was thinking about looking into bags but you didn't like the ride on air, are there other air setups available? I really like the idea of being able to drive around at a nonscrapy height but still get low when needed.
If it was hitting on the inside, it's most likely because the of the tanabe/shock combo. An OEM sized shock is larger in diameter, so it would be closer to the wheel compared to a coilover.
The first time I did air suspension the ride was fine, but the 2nd time it was a little stiffer. There are a lot of factors that go into the ride comfort (ride height, bag psi, shock valving). I didn't take notes on everything I did the 1st install, so it wasn't possible to have a fair comparison to dialing the suspension in the 2nd time. My build thread started when I did the 2nd install. The main reason I removed the air both time was that I never used it. I would always leave the car at ride height and drive the car. I would mainly air the car out at meets or when explaining how it worked.
There are plenty of other air suspensions on the market now with the introduction of the sleeve type bag from China. I have no personal experience with them, so I can't comment on their quality. Airrex and Airlift are the 2 that come to mind. Airrex is one of the easiest kits to install, and airlift doesn't offer a setup for our cars, but they're good on other cars.
When I originally got my kit, UAS and air runner were the only 2 options. I went with UAS because I couldn't afford air runner. UAS has been good to me on multiple cars, but since it is a universal system each car has its own small problems to overcome.
If it was hitting on the inside, it's most likely because the of the tanabe/shock combo. An OEM sized shock is larger in diameter, so it would be closer to the wheel compared to a coilover.
The first time I did air suspension the ride was fine, but the 2nd time it was a little stiffer. There are a lot of factors that go into the ride comfort (ride height, bag psi, shock valving). I didn't take notes on everything I did the 1st install, so it wasn't possible to have a fair comparison to dialing the suspension in the 2nd time. My build thread started when I did the 2nd install. The main reason I removed the air both time was that I never used it. I would always leave the car at ride height and drive the car. I would mainly air the car out at meets or when explaining how it worked.
There are plenty of other air suspensions on the market now with the introduction of the sleeve type bag from China. I have no personal experience with them, so I can't comment on their quality. Airrex and Airlift are the 2 that come to mind. Airrex is one of the easiest kits to install, and airlift doesn't offer a setup for our cars, but they're good on other cars.
When I originally got my kit, UAS and air runner were the only 2 options. I went with UAS because I couldn't afford air runner. UAS has been good to me on multiple cars, but since it is a universal system each car has its own small problems to overcome.
Okay, thanks for the explanation. I'm trying to do a lot more research on suspension options this time because my wife hated how my last car rode after I lowered it and that was partially why I ended up trading it.
12-12-14, 04:39 PM
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