dwebb99

iTrader: (17)

no, you do not need to remove the trim piece

janiesue7

Worked like a charm!!Thanks

rmsc400

Sorry if I'm misunderstanding it.

I also have a dead seat on my passenger side.

I tried removing the seat by turning the 10 mm bolt but it will only "move" back and forth.

Is there a way to remove it completey?

or if i wiggle it around, will the seat come off the rail?

Thanks bros!

7akata

iTrader: (2)

Thought I'd necro instead of making a new post. My seats are dead, and used this method to move the passenger side foward quite a bit, but not even close enough to get to the bolts in the back (92)... actually until the point that the nut came off. Any pointers?

omeadm

I know this is old but its helpful fact to know that if you are chasing this problem first check to make sure the harness connecting to the ECU under the seat has both connectors connected properly.

This problem caused my seat to stop functioning and to be stuck in the very back.

I figured this would be a decent place to say this

rayac88

iTrader: (3)

My passenger chair wont come out. unfortunately its the rear bracket that has two nuts holding it down. I am aware of the manual bolt but that doesn't work because the gear itself snapped. so now when i loosen the 10mm bolt the chair does nothing on the inside rail.
I know i'm using using the right 10mm nut because i tried it on my driver chair and it worked. any help would be awesome.

dwebb99

iTrader: (17)

We all know that each Lexus front seat is BOLTED DOWN to the floor by 4 bolts, one at each corner bracket on the seat frame. And of course each one of these 4 bolts must be removed to pull the complete seat out. Now if you are not able to get either of the two small manual 10mm bolts to turn on the gear on each RAIL [front of seat], (so as to physically move the seat for and aft along the seat frame rail), then you are going to have a real problem of accessing those 4 seat mounting bolts, PARTICULARLY the two rear seat frame bolts which I suspect is the problem your having.
Because accessing these two rear seat frame bolts are so difficult, (because of location and clearance issues when not being able to move the seat forward and because of the bracket design), I'll tell you how I removed them. Since a spanner wrench alone did not work for me, nor a regular socket and socket wrench combination because of clearance problems, I made up my own tool. I ended up taking a correct sized 6 point socket, grinding down adjacent sides of it (the top sides of the socket) so I could then put the socket on the bolt head and then I got the appropriate size SPANNER wrench now on to the "modified" socket head to loosen the two rear bolts. Tight fit space wise for sure, but it worked! Also, remember when removing the seat, it's a HEAVY! seat, so watch your back! Of course with the seat out, you can now fix all your seat "issues". Hope this info helps....Good luck.

rayac88

iTrader: (3)

Do you have a picture of the tool you made? Too me sounds like a ratcheting wrench. The sc400 chairs are held down by 5 bolts, one bracket has a bolt on the floor and a bolt attached to the frame portion of the center counsel.
The one 90° to the floor is my issue as the chair itself is in my way.
I'm pretty sure with some patience I can use my ratcheting wrench to get the one on the floor.
Since the screw attached to the inside rail is broken shouldn't that side be able to move since nothing else is holding it to the rail? I don't need the seat anymore I'm going to junk it.

dwebb99

iTrader: (17)

Ray, I still have the socket that I modified to get to the rear seat frame bolts. Just email me and I will send you a few pics of it. Because of clearance problems (getting access to the bolt head), a typical ratcheting wrench (spanner), nor a spanner wrench, nor a socket with racket wrench would allow me access. So this is what I came up with and it worked. I currently do not own a SC but I have owned 3 of them over a span of 20 years. The seats are bolted in using 4 bolts, one at each corner of the seat frame. I don't remember any bolts from the seat frame to the console, I think you are mistaken here. The two 10mm bolts on the seat rail itself only move the seat fore and aft ( when the seat motors don't work ) to gain access to the 4 bolts securing the seat frame itself to the car. My email: draytonwebb@yahoo.com

pappysc400

Thanks to all who offered potential solutions but unfortunately none worked including the 10mm nut between and inside the mountin/guide rails!

I FINALLY WAS ABLE TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM BY MAKING A SCREW JACK WITH TWO ALL THREAD BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS. I WAS NOT ABLE TO REMOVE THE SEAT OR MOVE IT FURTHER FORWARD, BUT WITH THE SCREW JACKS, I WAS ABLE TO ELEVATE THE SEAT ENOUGH TO WHERE I COULD FEEL AROUND WITH MY LEFT HAND. I FOUND WHAT FELT LIKE A SQUARE WIRE CONNECTOR AND HARNESS THAT WAS NOT PLUGED IN. WITH GREAT EVVORT AND PATIENCE I WAS ABLE TO INSTALL THAT HARNESS CONNECTOR BACK INTO ITS PLALCE ON THE REAR OF THE ECU. SEAT MOVEMENT HAD CAUGHT THE HEAVY WRAP INSULATION ON THE HARNESS AND PULLED IT OUT OF THE ECU. I WAS THEN ABLE TO MOVE THE SEAT FORWARD NORMLLY AND THEN ACCESS THE REAR (3) MOUNTING BOLTS AND REMOVE THE SEAT. I GUESS THAT I GOT LUCKY AND BLESSED.
THANKS TO ALL AGAIN!

Golden95SC

iTrader: (21)

I have undone the 2 10mm bolts and the seat still does not move an inch? I need then out can anyone assist

acklac7

I've tried to turn said 10mm bolts too without gaining so much as an inch. Is there some trick?

Golden95SC

iTrader: (21)

Man well I was able to only move the passenger seat. Here what's I learned from hours of messing with the dam seats, both seats work 100% prior to me removing all Interior and losing power to seats.

My driver was stuck all the way back

My passenger seat was stuck all the way forward

The pasnager seat was able to move back with the bolt. It was the bolt closest to the center console. The moment I started tightening the bolt the seat moved all the way wlback after multiple turns. Great now the next

Did the same thing to the driver seat , bolt closest to center console. Tightening the bolt just made the bolt tight and moved nothing. Got to the point were you couldn't turn it anymore it just getting tight and wasn't moving anything. So I tried to loosen the bolt. Did nothing and eventually literally removed the nut itself so I put it back on

Then I tried the other bolt located next on the side closest to the driver door. Same exact thing. Tightening the bolt just made them tight and moved nothing. Loosening the bolt just removed the bolt.

So much struggle and confusion I managed just to slip a open wrench in all different angles and got the last 3 rear mounting bolts out which took hours

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Dealing with how to move seats without power for bolt access, or even just moving them quickly with power, sure makes you appreciate manual sliders. I've never sat in a manual seat that I couldn't find a comfortable distance from the pedals, despite lacking the infinite adjustability of a a power track. Why oh why does no one make a power seat with manual sliders?

Mr. Klean

iTrader: (2)

Bringing this back from the dead....I have a parts car that has no wire harness in it so no place to hook up a battery and get these seats moving so I can get to the bolts and remove them.

I was wondering if anyone has figured a way to connect a battery to the fuse panel or to the seat directly to get them to move? Both seats were already as far back as they could go when I got the car. Unfortunately, the tips above only work if you're trying to get the seat to the back, not the front. While I have been able to take off the front two bolts, I am not going to break the bracket for the rear two (someone mentioned above) because I need the seat bracket.

Any advice or tips would be appreciated.