My progress with the new sc
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From: CA
Originally Posted by jattunit24
nice job on the headlights... what did u use...
Originally Posted by Lars619
Oh one last thing, for the headlights all I did was scrubbed them with a buffing pad and used Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner.... I heard the stuff was really good at getting rust, sap, etc stains off of your car and had the bottle sitting around so decided to try it out... in the pics they look REALLY clean, but now that they're back on the car (did that this morning), they don't look so hot, especially next to the highs 
I'd definitely recommend putting more time into cleaning them off than I did (wet sand or use a machine).
I may pull them again and start over if I'm not happy about it... it's a really easy process pulling them from the car and taking them apart. The most time I spent was trying to remove the stock adhesive. I used almost a full tube of RTV on each headlight, but that should be a lot easier to remove than the stock goop...
I'd definitely recommend putting more time into cleaning them off than I did (wet sand or use a machine). I may pull them again and start over if I'm not happy about it... it's a really easy process pulling them from the car and taking them apart. The most time I spent was trying to remove the stock adhesive. I used almost a full tube of RTV on each headlight, but that should be a lot easier to remove than the stock goop...
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: CA
So in the past couple of weeks I've done the following: replaced cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, PCV, tranny and diff fluid. Some side comments:
When I pulled the old PCV valve off, the seat (gromit) it was in, which was once soft rubber, was old, hard, and fell apart. When replacing the PCV, I HIGHLY recommend picking up a new gromit while you're at it.
As for spark plugs, I did a lot of searching here and on Supraforums, and there were a LOT of different personal opinions on what to use.... coming from a 4g63, it was practically set in stone what plugs to use (NGK BPR6ES for stock boost and NGK7ES for higher boost, shorted gap with more boost etc etc). Sooooo sorting through threads on what to use for the 2JZ-GE, the most frequent recommendation seemed to be NGK Iridium's, BKR5EIX-11, stock number 5464. Gaped them to .044 and they seem to work just fine.
For the tranny and diff, I used Redline MT-90 in the tranny and Red Line 75w/90 in the diff. The drain plug for the tranny is a 23mm socket, which I didn't have. A quick trip to Sears solved that problem, but I wish I checked before starting.
I'm about to update my first post with helpful information for all of these maintenance items so if someone is searching they can find lots of info in one spot. Thanks again all for the good information you have here
When I pulled the old PCV valve off, the seat (gromit) it was in, which was once soft rubber, was old, hard, and fell apart. When replacing the PCV, I HIGHLY recommend picking up a new gromit while you're at it.
As for spark plugs, I did a lot of searching here and on Supraforums, and there were a LOT of different personal opinions on what to use.... coming from a 4g63, it was practically set in stone what plugs to use (NGK BPR6ES for stock boost and NGK7ES for higher boost, shorted gap with more boost etc etc). Sooooo sorting through threads on what to use for the 2JZ-GE, the most frequent recommendation seemed to be NGK Iridium's, BKR5EIX-11, stock number 5464. Gaped them to .044 and they seem to work just fine.
For the tranny and diff, I used Redline MT-90 in the tranny and Red Line 75w/90 in the diff. The drain plug for the tranny is a 23mm socket, which I didn't have. A quick trip to Sears solved that problem, but I wish I checked before starting.
I'm about to update my first post with helpful information for all of these maintenance items so if someone is searching they can find lots of info in one spot. Thanks again all for the good information you have here
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,967
Likes: 17
From: Orange County, California
Do as you wish, but there's no need to replace the OEM PVC valve.
It's a sturdy metal valve that is easily cleaned to like-new condition with a little solvent.
Many replacement PVC valves are made of cheaper plastic, so while that grommet does need replacement from time to time (the Beverly Hills stealership wants $6.80 for that rubber ring!), I'd hang onto the original PVC valve.
It's a sturdy metal valve that is easily cleaned to like-new condition with a little solvent.
Many replacement PVC valves are made of cheaper plastic, so while that grommet does need replacement from time to time (the Beverly Hills stealership wants $6.80 for that rubber ring!), I'd hang onto the original PVC valve.
Last edited by PERRYinLA; May 30, 2006 at 05:31 PM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 32
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From: ca
after reading this thread and using surch i decide todo my lights to and taht i did
they came of clean and then i did the sand papper thing the whole nine yards
thank u lars
lars like lars ulrich just wanna know
metallica
they came of clean and then i did the sand papper thing the whole nine yards
thank u lars
lars like lars ulrich just wanna know
metallica
My last name's Larsen, so yea
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