O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Info Provided by Rich @ http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html#001

DIY Fixes for Common Problems


Replacing the Power Steering Pump:
info provided by lexcoupe94, sxylxy, FLex, hyperopt:

The pump brackets are mounted at about a 45 degree angle looking at the pump from the front. The outside bolt is higher.

STEP 1: Disconnect the car battery.

STEP 2: Drain power steering fluid with a turkey baster.

STEP 3: Remove the air intake box, overflow tank, pump reservoir and bracket.

STEP 4: Loosen pump pulley with a 14mm wrench. This will loosen the serpentine belt. Remove both belt and pulley.

STEP 5: Remove vacuum valve on the passenger side of the motor.

STEP 6: Remove side bolts with a 14mm wrench. They are tough to see so you have to feel for them.

STEP 7: Disconnect the high pressure hose and remove the two front bolts with a 10mm wrench. You have to pull the pulley off for access to the front bolts. I carefully pried the pump off with a crowbar by prying one side, then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and prying again. I would recommend using a puller though.

STEP 8: If you did not buy a new power steering fluid reservoir, make sure you thoroughly clean yours out. Flush old power steering fluid too otherwise contaminants may accelerate your new pump's lifespan.

Rebuilt pumps are available from PartsAmerica.com and AutoZone.com for reasonable prices. New alternator and power steering pump together are approximately $400.

Bleeding Air From Power Steering Pump:
info provided by lexcoupe94:

STEP 1: Check power steering fluid level. Fill if necessary.

STEP 2: Warm up the car 5 minutes or so to heat up the power steering fluid.

STEP 3: Jack the front end up and prop up on jackstands so that the wheels turn free.

STEP 4: Take off the power steering fluid reservoir cap and stuff a rag around the reservoir to catch any fluid.

STEP 5: With the car running, turn the wheel full left and right about 10 times, then straighten wheels and check fluid.

STEP 6: If fluid level is down, fill to proper hot level and turn full left and right 10 more times.

STEP 7:Repeat until no more air or fluid burps out.

STEP 8:Lower wheels back down and recheck fluid.

** Fully-illustrated article on Power Steering Pump repair: click here.


Replacing Trunk Lift Supports:
info provided by PERRYinLA:

Here are the instructions - some of it won't make sense until you actually start the process:

Supplimental Installation Pictures - (provided by howiedoit)

Try to enlist a friend to help - to hold up the trunk lid, but you can do it yourself using a sturdy pole to prop it up.

STEP 1: Inside the trunk, peel off, from the top, the interior cloth-like panel that separates the trunk cavity from the back seat/gas tank area. It's held down with little plastic clips. These clips will release if you give them a tug. You should then be able to see the gas tank and the lifts attached to the trunk hinges.

STEP 2: You can't just pop the old lifts off because they are not yet fully extended. There are a pair of little black plastic bumpers that clip onto the tubular metal connecting the trunk to the struts. Pull them out so you can lift the trunk to its full height.

STEP 3: Using a 12mm open end wrench unscrew the ball portion of the ball and socket joint that is on the top part of the lift supports. It may be hard to start because it has Locktite on it.

STEP 4: Using a screwdriver, unclip the metal retainer that secures the bottom part of the lifter cylinder to a stud on the car body. If you won't be re-using your old struts, you can just jam a screwdriver and bend the clips so that they release. (I had to be more careful, since I knew I would be re-using them.)

STEP 5: Now you reverse step 3 for the replacement struts.

STEP 6: Clip the bottom part of your new cylinders onto their round studs.

STEP 7: Put those rubber bumpers back into place, paying attention to the little key piece that fits into a hole on the tubular trunk arm.

STEP 8: Put the interior piece back into place with the clips.

These pneumatic cylinders are under a lot of pressure, even when they're too weak to hold up the lid. Don't cut them or get your finger in the way when they are compressed. Also, take care not to nick or scratch the polished metal rods on the struts.

If you really want to extend the service life of your lift supports, keep in mind there is a slight chance that your trunk currently has only one strut shot, but the other is in good shape. So replace the struts one at a time. If replacing one strut results in a trunk lid that will stay up, you may wish to hold onto the extra strut until the time your other strut gives out.