SC300 Weight Reduction Worksheet
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: California
Hey Fried rice i love your build, i will be doing a cage similar to yours soon 
i saw an old post of your gutted interior and was wondering which unessential harnesses and components you removed to keep the interior looking so clean!
Any advise would be awesome! i would love to get those annoying harnesses out of the way!
i saw an old post of your gutted interior and was wondering which unessential harnesses and components you removed to keep the interior looking so clean!
Any advise would be awesome! i would love to get those annoying harnesses out of the way!
Hey Fried rice i love your build, i will be doing a cage similar to yours soon
i saw an old post of your gutted interior and was wondering which unessential harnesses and components you removed to keep the interior looking so clean!
Any advise would be awesome! i would love to get those annoying harnesses out of the way!
i saw an old post of your gutted interior and was wondering which unessential harnesses and components you removed to keep the interior looking so clean!
Any advise would be awesome! i would love to get those annoying harnesses out of the way!
Hey guys im working on gutting my interior, these are the weight im guessing everything weights lol
so far i have removed
spare and jack ~80 lbs
disk changer ~15 lbs
stereo~ 2 lbs
rear seats ~ 30 lbs
Antenna ~ 4 lbs
driver and passenger seat ~100 lbs each (these guys are heavy, im gonna offically weight them soon)
All Sound deadening ~40 lbs
all carpet~ 15 lbs
rear brackets for heated seats ~3 lbs
all bolts from removing process ~5 lbs
rear seat belt assemblys ~ 5 lbs
soon my seering wheel with the airbag will come out and be replaced with my nrg quick release and momo rep wheel. when my building starts under the hood i will remove all mufflers, cats so the reduction should be extensive
i would really like to see a diagram of all the unessential harnesses and ecu's that could be removed, that would be extremely helpful lmk guys thanks!
so far i have removed
spare and jack ~80 lbs
disk changer ~15 lbs
stereo~ 2 lbs
rear seats ~ 30 lbs
Antenna ~ 4 lbs
driver and passenger seat ~100 lbs each (these guys are heavy, im gonna offically weight them soon)
All Sound deadening ~40 lbs
all carpet~ 15 lbs
rear brackets for heated seats ~3 lbs
all bolts from removing process ~5 lbs
rear seat belt assemblys ~ 5 lbs
soon my seering wheel with the airbag will come out and be replaced with my nrg quick release and momo rep wheel. when my building starts under the hood i will remove all mufflers, cats so the reduction should be extensive
i would really like to see a diagram of all the unessential harnesses and ecu's that could be removed, that would be extremely helpful lmk guys thanks!
With regards to your post above on the cage, here is something to consider. Since the cage builder put mine in, he now has a pattern and can sell a kit if you are interested. Send me a message and I can get you in contact with him. I would post his company info here but not sure what the forum rules are on that, so just give me a shout. I have pictures in my build thread if you want to check it out.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: California
Awsome man thanks I'll let you know what happens with my wiring also! and yeah I was hearing that about the seats still heavy as heck lol, and the cat I was hoping would weight in at around 20 lbs but we'll see what happens man aha I have a local cage builder me and 2 friends are gonna go to to get a group discount but I'll let you know if I need your guy 😄
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: California
[QUOTE=RXRodger;9282547]Same here, I just haven't taken the time to figure out which I can do away with. If I make any progress this weekend I'll update here, but do the same if you find out anything.
And would love to get my hands on that cage build diagram thanks man 😎
And would love to get my hands on that cage build diagram thanks man 😎
Sorry to keep raining on your weight reduction parade. But, keep pulling stuff out, it eventually adds up.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: California
Yeah that isn't that high either. I bought a downpipe off of ebay from seller maxedboost and pulled the cat to put that in. The pipe he sells is $95 and is really good quality and fits well and bolts right up. The cat/pipe weighs about 15 pounds and the ebay pipe is about 5 so net savings of about 10 pounds.
Sorry to keep raining on your weight reduction parade. But, keep pulling stuff out, it eventually adds up.
Sorry to keep raining on your weight reduction parade. But, keep pulling stuff out, it eventually adds up.
Lol it's ok man like you said it all adds up I just wanna be around the low 3k range and I'd be happy 😂 and thanks for the tip man! Would you reccomend a 1j swap or a 2jgte swap/ build? Trying to make around 400 - 500 reliably I've heard a lot of different opinions
I am sure there are hundreds of posts on here about those 2 swap options. Personally I am done with the turbo stuff for a track car. I can make the engines hold up, just breaks everything else and I just got tired of working on the car all the time. What I am building now has to be stock anyway, but I have enjoyed just driving the car all weekend and just put gas in it and check the oil. Last time on track I had a couple of 911 turbos pass me and they both came over later and said they looked in their mirrors and said how is that thing still there. Kind of fun to hang with a $100,000 car with my $1,000 SC. Of course they disappear on the straights with raw hp but that's ok with me.
I removed all OEM wiring other than the engine harness and ran switch panels, the only OEM electronics were the brake lights and one windshield wiper. My cage was purchased from HERE for around $600 shipped. It wasn't as close to the A-pillars as I would have liked, but for 1.75" DOM tubing it's pretty cheap and worked fine for me.
In the process of ordering my Advan CF Hood (20lb version) Will take awhile, but they said it should be here sometime in January hopefully. Can't wait to see how it looks, and how much weight it will remove!
Will take awhile, but they said it should be here sometime in January hopefully. Can't wait to see how it looks, and how much weight it will remove!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: California
I was thinking about a rear battery relocation too but it sounds like a pain, anyone done it? I'm just think about getting a light weight battery when I need a new one, and post a pic of that advan hood when you install it I bet it will look sweet!
i put my battery in the trunk.. i can post pics. i ran a cable straight from the starter bolt down to the driver side o2 bung (sc400) and then through the cabin to the trunk. 2 AWG, exactly 15 feet, ordering a 20 foot cable would make things easier. The cable only weighs 5 lbs. Ground cable is a 3 foot stubby like you would have in the engine bay anyway. i put the battery on the passenger side where the stock amp goes i think, in a battery box. and i'm running a miata battery, so weight reduction all around there too. Another cable runs from the starter bolt to the front fuse box. Basically same as stock setup is, except the starter/fuse box cables split at the battery on stock car, as that is the central point then.
use 2AWG copper lugs on the cable ends.
use 2AWG copper lugs on the cable ends.