Amen to that! Either way, Thanks for the details above. Good tips!

 

Ok, so this is not a complete DIY wriite up, but here are the basics that would help a great deal..

First off, the sway bar brackets obviously have to be taken loose to access the 19mm bolts that hold the steering rack to the subframe.

One of the mount brackets is seen here:



There are two 12mm bolts that hold each bracket in place...

Now, to give you even better access and free range of motion, take the sway bar end links loose:



The easiest way is to first spray PB blaster on the 17mm nut. In the back of the end link, there is a little collar against the mounting bracket on the shock, Put a pair of vise-grips on it tightly, then use a ratchet and a 17mm socket (6 point) to loosen the nut, and remove it.

Take the subframe mounts loose in the rear so the subframe drops down. There are three 14mm bolts/nut on each subframe mount bracket as well as the 19mm bolt.

When it is dropped down, it looks like this:




The rest is pretty straight forward...

Any more questions, feel free to ask!

 

NOTE: This applies to all 2004-2009 RX... 2010 is the new body style and with Electronic Power Steering

 

Awesome man thanks

 

since you have done this a few times.... Other than like crows foot wrenches and a ball joint fork, do you need any other special tools? like to separate the input shaft of the gear assembly away from where it attaches to the steering coulmn? Are there any tools that you may not need but would make the job easier?

I'm probably gonna be doing this in the Cold so I want to minimize the time I spend outside in my garage trying to be creative.

 

Make sure you have something that you can tie the wheel straight with that will not give much as this will certainly effect alignment if not secured.

As for other tools, a pry bar is helpful to diswconnect the knuckle where the wheel linkage attaches to the PS linkage. There should be a nut that lossens and comes off first then you can reach up and begin to try and disconnect the linakge. Tube wrenches can come in handy if a crows foot cannot fit or you do not have clearance for a ratchet to attach to crows foot. Breaker bar for sub frame bolts is helpful. Tie rod ends come out easier witha gator pinch remover as ooposed to the fork remover.

Hope this helps friend.

 

I have been trying to get some info on changing transfer case oil in my 2008 RX350. Not sure what size the filler plug is but can't get a wrench close to it as exhaust pipe is in the way. Would be very interested to know how you remove plug and what size it is.

Thanks

 

Rick, not sure exactly waht size it is but I would guess it is either a 17, 19, or 22 as these are the typical larger size bolts on the Toyota products.

One thing yo ucan do to give you some play in the exhaust piping is to remove the rubber hangers that run along the pipes in various spots. Remove a few of those and see if it will give you some play to get at it.

 

I have a RX330 and need some advise, can you help?
I had a rack installed and now I'm hearing a continuous beep
only when driving.

 

I hope someone can help Donna with her issue - separate topic started.
At the risk of hi-jacking this thread back to its original topic...

I am in the midst of changing my rack and pinion on an '04 RX330. I have a few comments/suggestions:

• Break the jam nuts loose on the out tie rod ends before you disconnect them. Even if you are replacing the tie rod ends with the rack you may need the jam nuts.
• I recommend Moog sway arm links if you are replacing them. They are very heavy, greasable and have flats to keep the stud from spinning when turning the nut.
• The cotter keys were so corroded in place on my car I could not get them out. I tried everything - even using a punch after I broke the ends off. I tapped a socket on the nut and just cranked on it with a breaker bar. One side smashed the cotter key and then unthreaded. The other side simple snapped off. I have new ends so no harm.
• An easy way to disconnect the tie rod ends without a special tool is to just smack the side of the steering knuckle right where the tie rod end attaches. A couple good hits and it will just pop out.
• RockAuto currently has a Cardone rack (Cardone is a good rebuild outfit) for $275 plus $125 core charge. The local NAPA had the exact same Cardone part but it was $500.
• Pull your belly pans before you start. I was trying to do a lot from the wheel wells. Then I pulled the pans and a lot of connections became a lot easier to get to.

Some of the above may be obvious to you. I just mentioned a few things that I thought might help. I learned on this thread about dropping the subframe a bit. I'm going to do that if I run into trouble. I just need to unhook the steering rod and pull out the two bolts tonight. Fingers crossed...

 

@desmo888 just getting ready to replace mine tomorrow...............any bleeding required?? Did you end up dropping subframe?? thanks!

 

Hello, does this procedure apply to the 3rd gen Rx 350 (2010-2015)?

 

See post #18

 

So I’m needing to replace my rack and pinion and I’m wondering what are the tips/tricks you have for doing so. Any special tools? The cheapest shop I have found is almost $1,200 so I think my boyfriend will be attempting to change mine hisself. Any and all help is appreciated!!!

 

I also need to replace my R&P and am contemplating doing it myself. Got a quote for $1400, however I found a reman Cardone on Rock Auto with outer tie rods for total cost of about $350. Wondering if this is something I should attempt in my garage (unfortunately without a lift). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.