Question: Has anyone done these upgrades or attempted these things?
09-01-17, 12:47 PM
#16
UPDATE: I activated the EnformApp and the remote start began working both in App and on the key FOB. GO FIGURE! I did a little more research and found this bypass module for the remote start. I just realized that since Lexus has a programmable remote start which is disabled by LEXUS without the active enform subscription this MEANS that there is a bypass module somewhere. This is what I found and I think it might just be the solution instead of the RES factory install. Any thoughts?
*Link Below*
http://fortin.ca/en/products/evo-series/evo-all/
*Link Below*
http://fortin.ca/en/products/evo-series/evo-all/
09-01-17, 01:12 PM
#17
09-01-17, 03:05 PM
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I wanted to note something I didn't mention before (after re-reading my original post) - one of the mods is replacing and fusing the Alternator positive cable that runs to the battery. (the ground from the battery was an extra upgrade)
The alternator to battery wire will decrease resistance to electronics in the car. Here are a couple of links to another forum performing the 'big 3' upgrade + a video from Sonicelectronix
http://my6thgen.org/f17/big-3-upgrad...xplained-9825/
http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com...big-3-upgrade/
Originally Posted by TeKKieNYC
This is from the site: NOT COMPATIBLE ON AMERICAN MODELS WITH ENFORM SYSTEM.
Originally Posted by Oldfart
I think he is on the right track. If there is a way to make car's electronics to think that enform is active.
1. Enform is not active in canada (that seemed like it was the case from the disclaimer)
2. There is a way to install it on the US model. When installing, you must remove the DCM 7.5 amp fuse which controls the onboard enform system and re-install it after the installation of the EVO-ALL and programming of it.
3. In the 4th gen the remote start is built into the onboard BCM and cannot be removed. SO that step is luckily avoided because in some cars its a separate module that must be removed for the override to work.
4. To the reps knowledge, there have not been any failed installations on the newer cars but he cannot confirm that it works/doesn't work after plugging the DCM 7.5 amp fuse back in once all the steps have been met.
This is why there is a possible light at the end of the tunnel. Ill try it in the future and let you know if it works for me unless someone beats me to it. I'll leave this here for now
On a separate note, anyone try to install the Beatsonic Navigation and DVD bypass VS. VIAS tech ULM-81? If so Any thoughts?
http://www.beatsonicusa.com/nsd6223ep.html/
http://www.vaistech.com/product/ulm-81/
Thanks for all the feedback guys, this is definitely helping me make some decisions.
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TeKKieNYC (09-02-17)
09-04-17, 10:57 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
BUMP. Any ideas on that last post about the bypass? Also it looks like I'm going go to with the the Blackvue DR650S + Blackvue B-112.
I found the Blackvue to have most of the features I'd like in a dashcam.
PROS
1. Super capacitor for power. Better than the lithium ion battery than other dash cams. It withstands higher tempuratures
2. Front and rear dash cam. 1080p on the front and 720p on the rear (I'd prefer the 1080p on the rear but it looks like I have no choice)
3. G sensor mode, parking mode
4. Rotatable front camera for in cabin recording.
CONS
1. low light visibility which is average for the market and cost
2. system that costs $549 with the B112
3. not 1080p recording on he rear
4. cloud FPS recording is low.
I found the Blackvue to have most of the features I'd like in a dashcam.
PROS
1. Super capacitor for power. Better than the lithium ion battery than other dash cams. It withstands higher tempuratures
2. Front and rear dash cam. 1080p on the front and 720p on the rear (I'd prefer the 1080p on the rear but it looks like I have no choice)
3. G sensor mode, parking mode
4. Rotatable front camera for in cabin recording.
CONS
1. low light visibility which is average for the market and cost
2. system that costs $549 with the B112
3. not 1080p recording on he rear
4. cloud FPS recording is low.
09-04-17, 04:43 PM
#20
No, I don't play soccer!
PandaRXprs, there's already a thread on Beatsonic here. Not sure about the VAIS system. But I had an iPod adaptor from them a long time ago. They have great products and excellent customer service. Regarding dash cams, Thinkware has 1080P front and rear cameras. I almost went with BlackVue myself until I found out Thinkware tolerates higher temps better. It also has the same features except for the cloud features (downloading, e-mail notifications, etc.). To me that wasn't as important as having a dash cam that could hold up in the heat. For more details you can check out this thread. Thinkware is about the same price if you add the Cellink-B battery with almost twice the power supply (23 hours vs 12 hours, single channel) which can be expanded to double that capacity. Bottom line, I don't think you can go wrong with either one. It just might come down to what features you want the most.
Oh, and I added subwoofers, kick panels, new speakers and a few other things to my old RX330. Everything was professionally installed. OEM battery worked fine, well, except for the time I left the radio on for an hour. It had to be replaced a few weeks later. But it was about time to do it anyway. The new battery didn't cost me a thing. Dealer covered it under warranty. That was without doing any kind of electrical upgrades. Now I just opt for the better stereo systems because it's a lot cheaper.
Oh, and I added subwoofers, kick panels, new speakers and a few other things to my old RX330. Everything was professionally installed. OEM battery worked fine, well, except for the time I left the radio on for an hour. It had to be replaced a few weeks later. But it was about time to do it anyway. The new battery didn't cost me a thing. Dealer covered it under warranty. That was without doing any kind of electrical upgrades. Now I just opt for the better stereo systems because it's a lot cheaper.
09-04-17, 06:03 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
PandaRXprs, there's already a thread on Beatsonic here. Not sure about the VAIS system. But I had an iPod adaptor from them a long time ago. They have great products and excellent customer service. Regarding dash cams, Thinkware has 1080P front and rear cameras. I almost went with BlackVue myself until I found out Thinkware tolerates higher temps better. It also has the same features except for the cloud features (downloading, e-mail notifications, etc.). To me that wasn't as important as having a dash cam that could hold up in the heat. For more details you can check out this thread. Thinkware is about the same price if you add the Cellink-B battery with almost twice the power supply (23 hours vs 12 hours, single channel) which can be expanded to double that capacity. Bottom line, I don't think you can go wrong with either one. It just might come down to what features you want the most.
Oh, and I added subwoofers, kick panels, new speakers and a few other things to my old RX330. Everything was professionally installed. OEM battery worked fine, well, except for the time I left the radio on for an hour. It had to be replaced a few weeks later. But it was about time to do it anyway. The new battery didn't cost me a thing. Dealer covered it under warranty. That was without doing any kind of electrical upgrades. Now I just opt for the better stereo systems because it's a lot cheaper.
Oh, and I added subwoofers, kick panels, new speakers and a few other things to my old RX330. Everything was professionally installed. OEM battery worked fine, well, except for the time I left the radio on for an hour. It had to be replaced a few weeks later. But it was about time to do it anyway. The new battery didn't cost me a thing. Dealer covered it under warranty. That was without doing any kind of electrical upgrades. Now I just opt for the better stereo systems because it's a lot cheaper.
The issue I have with the thinkware is that i cant turn the camera around to record inside the cabin. That is a deal breaker for me personally because if I ever get stopped I want to be able to record the encounter :/
09-05-17, 09:20 AM
#22
No, I don't play soccer!
Yeah, only the rear camera can be switched around with Thinkware. But the front camera has a mic button to record sound. If you get pulled over (presumably for speeding), don't offer to show video since it'll display how fast you were going 
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ggebhardt (09-06-17)
09-05-17, 02:42 PM
#23
I did this on my '15 IS and it did nothing as compared to my older cars.
Even when running amps and speakers with a sub, I never noticed anything before and after upgrading the big 3.
Most cars run LED headlights now along with interiors so there isn't as much electrical drag as compared to the old halogens needing 55w.
Smooth idle.. not sure since most cars run pretty smooth and with all the control modules in newer cars, the big 3 stuff isn't necessary anymore IMO.
Just my 2 cents for someone who knows what you're talking about about.
Even when running amps and speakers with a sub, I never noticed anything before and after upgrading the big 3.
Most cars run LED headlights now along with interiors so there isn't as much electrical drag as compared to the old halogens needing 55w.
Smooth idle.. not sure since most cars run pretty smooth and with all the control modules in newer cars, the big 3 stuff isn't necessary anymore IMO.
Just my 2 cents for someone who knows what you're talking about about.
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ggebhardt (09-06-17)
09-05-17, 11:50 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I did this on my '15 IS and it did nothing as compared to my older cars.
Even when running amps and speakers with a sub, I never noticed anything before and after upgrading the big 3.
Most cars run LED headlights now along with interiors so there isn't as much electrical drag as compared to the old halogens needing 55w.
Smooth idle.. not sure since most cars run pretty smooth and with all the control modules in newer cars, the big 3 stuff isn't necessary anymore IMO.
Just my 2 cents for someone who knows what you're talking about about.
Even when running amps and speakers with a sub, I never noticed anything before and after upgrading the big 3.
Most cars run LED headlights now along with interiors so there isn't as much electrical drag as compared to the old halogens needing 55w.
Smooth idle.. not sure since most cars run pretty smooth and with all the control modules in newer cars, the big 3 stuff isn't necessary anymore IMO.
Just my 2 cents for someone who knows what you're talking about about.
@kitiz: Lol last person I will show or tell is the cop or anyone else. LOL with whats going on right now in the world....we need all the assurances we can get.
09-06-17, 11:02 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
Key FOB Remote start
UPDATE: I activated the EnformApp and the remote start began working both in App and on the key FOB. GO FIGURE! I did a little more research and found this bypass module for the remote start. I just realized that since Lexus has a programmable remote start which is disabled by LEXUS without the active enform subscription this MEANS that there is a bypass module somewhere. This is what I found and I think it might just be the solution instead of the RES factory install. Any thoughts?
*Link Below*
http://fortin.ca/en/products/evo-series/evo-all/
*Link Below*
http://fortin.ca/en/products/evo-series/evo-all/
Thanks.
09-06-17, 11:25 AM
#26
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
09-06-17, 04:06 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
HOW TO: Battery Install
Just wanted to up date you all real quick. Battery Swap/Install HOW TO Below - Please read my experience after the swap thus far.
So I installed the D35 optima yellow top today and I wanted to share something that I noted while driving. I have driven this car for 1 week and have hade a very very minor hesitation when accelerating. It's almost unnoticeable to some but definitely enough to get my attention. I would have to switch to "Sport" mode to get the take off I was looking for. Disclaimer: I drive the car as normally as possible with minimal racing or anything of that sort.
But let me tell you -------- DAMN! What a difference! I just don't get it? The hesitation issue is completely gone on the car. It feels like I'm driving a different vehicle. Maybe its that everything on this car is electronic and this battery gives it the "UMPH!" that it needs? It accelerates completely differently. If it was just personal standard protocol to change all my batteries to deep cycle aftermarket ones I probably never would have realized that this small modification would has had such a huge impact. Anyone have any thoughts or similar experiences?
HOW TO:: So I changed the battery - very simple to do so. Some pics below.
Diconnected the old battery, First power (+) and then ground (-)
Then I removed the paneling in the engine bay (I found only 1 rivet is necessary)
Notice screw here - After removing the paneling I was able to remove the screw (which attached to the other end of the battery tie) no problem.
I used a size 10 crafsman mechanic wrench on every nut and screw (both to tighten and untighten)
Recap: Diconnected the power first and the ground second. Removed the old battery and placed the new Optima Yellow top with the provided battery heightener (not pictured) which clips in below the battery. The hightener is included with your purchase - it looks like a base for the battery and has guided clips on it
Reassembled it in reverse. Place the ground (-) back first, follow it up with the power (+) cable) - MAKE SURE YOU TURN YOUR CAR ON BEFORE YOU TIGHTEN THE BATTERY DOWN - then tighten the screws and nuts and ensure the battery is centered when tightening it down. Simple as that.
DONE! Hope this helps anyone that may need it!
BTW I kept the insulation sleeve on for now but it make not be there in the near future. We'll see.
So I installed the D35 optima yellow top today and I wanted to share something that I noted while driving. I have driven this car for 1 week and have hade a very very minor hesitation when accelerating. It's almost unnoticeable to some but definitely enough to get my attention. I would have to switch to "Sport" mode to get the take off I was looking for. Disclaimer: I drive the car as normally as possible with minimal racing or anything of that sort.
But let me tell you -------- DAMN! What a difference! I just don't get it? The hesitation issue is completely gone on the car. It feels like I'm driving a different vehicle. Maybe its that everything on this car is electronic and this battery gives it the "UMPH!" that it needs? It accelerates completely differently. If it was just personal standard protocol to change all my batteries to deep cycle aftermarket ones I probably never would have realized that this small modification would has had such a huge impact. Anyone have any thoughts or similar experiences?
HOW TO:: So I changed the battery - very simple to do so. Some pics below.
Diconnected the old battery, First power (+) and then ground (-)
Then I removed the paneling in the engine bay (I found only 1 rivet is necessary)
Notice screw here - After removing the paneling I was able to remove the screw (which attached to the other end of the battery tie) no problem.
I used a size 10 crafsman mechanic wrench on every nut and screw (both to tighten and untighten)
Recap: Diconnected the power first and the ground second. Removed the old battery and placed the new Optima Yellow top with the provided battery heightener (not pictured) which clips in below the battery. The hightener is included with your purchase - it looks like a base for the battery and has guided clips on it
Reassembled it in reverse. Place the ground (-) back first, follow it up with the power (+) cable) - MAKE SURE YOU TURN YOUR CAR ON BEFORE YOU TIGHTEN THE BATTERY DOWN - then tighten the screws and nuts and ensure the battery is centered when tightening it down. Simple as that.
DONE! Hope this helps anyone that may need it!
BTW I kept the insulation sleeve on for now but it make not be there in the near future. We'll see.
09-06-17, 10:32 PM
#28
Driver School Candidate
Normally when you disconnect the battery for a few minutes it resets the ECM. That might be why you felt a difference. The computer learns your driving habits. After the reset you need to drive a bit more aggressive so the computer learns the new shift points.
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ggebhardt (09-07-17)
09-07-17, 01:59 AM
#29
Pole Position
Sorry but 12 volts is 12 volts. Unless your other battery was defective, there would be no difference.
Likely you reset the ECU and that would make driving feel different for a while.
Likely you reset the ECU and that would make driving feel different for a while.
09-07-17, 05:35 AM
#30
Deep cycle batteries are wonderful as they are easily recharged after depletion, however the Optima battery absolutely did not give you a boost I don't see any need for deep cycle batteries unless you are running new power hungry amps and woofers. I've had Optima and other deep cycle batteries before as I would install custom sound systems, alarms, horns, etc. Deep cycle batteries offer lower cold crank amps than regular batteries, so in most cases they are used as secondary power banks, not starters.
PandaRXprs, do you have a towing package with an alternator upgrade?
I don't see any need for deep cycle batteries unless you are running new power hungry amps and woofers. I've had Optima and other deep cycle batteries before as I would install custom sound systems, alarms, horns, etc. Deep cycle batteries offer lower cold crank amps than regular batteries, so in most cases they are used as secondary power banks, not starters.PandaRXprs, do you have a towing package with an alternator upgrade?