You should change oil at 3750 miles on turbo motors.

 

My 1993 Supra has done 10k OCI with RedLine 10w-30 for decades, and at 162k miles, still has less than 5% leakdown on all 6 cylinders.

 

I change at 2,500k to 3,000k

You're right, these turbo 4's need more frequent changes over the old V8's.

The wear is much higher on a 4 vs 8 given same weight of vehicle.

I drive a RX350L (L is made in Japan)

It's crazy that OEM's are pushing 10K changes on a 4 banger with turbo.

Lease Customers are #1 target market and they don;t like high maintenance on a leased vehicle.

So, to be competitive, OEM's comply.

 

My car recommends 7,500 mile intervals. But I change early; every 5K

So you recommend a 2,500 mile interval even for the RX hybrid? Doesn't the gas engine work less and not as often on a hybrid?

 

Depends on your driving conditions.

When that 4 banger kicks in, it's dragging 4,400+ lbs.

Engine is always running and charges the battery.

I wouldn't exceed 3,500 miles.

 

The 4th gen RX hybrid is a V6 and isn't a turbo. Do you think 5K is okay? Or would you still go with 3,500 mile interval for the RX V6 hybrid?

 

I think the hybrid should have similar change intervals. You might use the engine a bit less due to the hybrid system, but then you are starting and stopping it much more often. 5K is always safe. Changing it more often will not hurt, just some more cost involved. Going longer like 10k maybe ok dependent on your driving but most people dont start the car and drive hundreds of miles on the highway at low load only. Why risk it if you are are keeping the car long term. The non direct injected cars are easier on the oil. DI cars tend to have more fuel dilution and no amount of special oil or additives will fix that. The oil just needs to be changed to get the fuel out. I think especially plug in hybrids, you may end up just changing based on time rather then mileage. Plugin hybrids still need to use that motor once a a while, run through to fuel in the tank so it does go bad and circulate that oil. Using only electric for months at a time without running the engine doesnt seem like a good idea. Just like trying to avoid a bunch of short trips in cold weather when you dont warm the engine up, you should run it for a good while occasionally to get rid of water vaopr and get everything circulating.

 

Thanks.

I was always taught to never do 10K. So I won't.

 

That has not been my experience. I run Renewable Lubricants 5w-30 PCMO SHP in my 2UR-GSE engines and the fuel dilution problem has gone away. If you look at the UOAs from the wife's GS F (it has had nothing but RLI in it since the dealership swill got drained at the first 5k oil change), I have 4 ppm iron in a 5k OCI consistently, and that's over 135k miles now. I switched on this recommendation https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...ml#post9783463 from a member who worked at Tribologik. I also had my oil analyzed by Tribologik and Blackstone with samples from the same fill. Tribologik was significantly different, but not enough to make me spend significantly more money for analysis.

Truth be told, the small amount of oil in the engines you are running hardly make it worth even a Blackstone analysis. The 2UR-GSE holds about 9 quarts, so it isn't unreasonable to spend the money on mass spec to see the wear metals when running pricey synthetics as I do. I also recently got a tune for my IS F, and I will be very interested to see if there is a difference in wear metals after the tune.

 

I don’t think fuel dilution is an engine wear issue, it’s just happens more when you are injecting fuel at very high pressure in DI engines. From what I can see, increasing the oil change frequency to 5k as oppose to 10k will get the fuel out before it builds up. I have not seen any oil have to ability to do anything with fuel once it gets into it. I don’t know if 10k oil changes would have caused a problem for sure, but you’re 5k interval certainly did not hurt since you have no wear issues

 

The problem isn't DI. The problem is the factory tune is very rich. They depend on the cats to clean it up. But it saves them buying customers new engines under warranty. The Toyota MkIV TT Supra was notorious for a 10.5:1 AFR at WOT from the factory. So no matter what kind of injection you use, you're going to have fuel dilution. If you read through the thread I linked, there is a big discussion about this, and danielTRLK specifically states Renewable Lubricants is better at managing fuel dilution than other oils based on FTIR analysis. That's what convinced me to switch from Mobil 1 to RLI. My iron numbers also dropped in my IS F over the same OCI running RLI vs. Mobil 1. I have data to back this claim.

 

Maybe the issue is rich fuel mixture. Regardless, changing oil at 5k is the simplest option. Using RLI oil seems fine too but at a higher cost. It’s a small boutique manufacturer, and they do not actually guarantee their oil
meets specs because they do not actually test and certify it. It’s probably simpler to go with a brand name oil company that actually tests and guarantees the oil. The oil expert in that thread has some very specific and strong opinions. He says big oil companies don’t know how to formulate oil, they just spend on marketing and shell is only gas to buy. He might be right, who knows for sure.

 

The engine is constantly charging the battery, if not pulling the vehicle.

I'm doing 2500k to 3000k with my ES350 and Rx350.

As a hybrid, I would think that the 3500K would be satisfactory.

At 3500K, you should use an aftermarket, micro-filter.

Amsoil, Royal Purple, Purolator Boss

Toyota OEM is designed for the Lease Car owner going 10K.

So, it has a poorer filtration but higher flow.

necessary when going to 10K

 

What's a good filter?

Do you have a link (to buy in bulk, like 10 pack)?

 

I drive 2,500 miles per month and change my oil every 9,999 miles (15,998 km) once a year.I have the oil tested by Wix Lab, and it showed I could extend the interval by 4,000 miles. I use full synthetic oil and an OEM filter.