GibbsLexus

iTrader: (1)

I will soon change my wife's front brake pads and I would like to also perform a total brake system flush. Anyone in have experience doing this? If so please share your knowledge.
Thanks in advance

Clutchless

I use this device made by Mity Vac to do my own brake bleeding. It works great as a one person bleeder, which results in a flush when you run enough fluid through the system. However, you do have to closely monitor the master cylinder fluid level so it does not run dry. I mainly use it to bleed after pad replacement. I also suspect doing it this way does not really flush out the ABS controller or expensive electronic brake distribution thing. However it is easy to use, but for the investment, you could almost pay a shop to do a full brake fluid flush. https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...om=Search&cx=0
I still take my cars to a shop every once in a while to have the brakes bleed by them using the software needed to activate all the systems for a complete flush. Usual cost is about $125 depending.

ukrkoz

You guys have brake by wire, right? Then " expensive electronic brake distribution thing. " is brake actuator and it can't be bled without Techstream. As it needs its actuators to be moved during bleeding procedure. Or, if busted, it is what? $4K replacement? I am absolute DIY guy but, brakes bleeding - $150 dealer. Money well spent.
Besides, is there actual NEED to bleed brakes? To replace fluid, you can simply suck it out of MC canister, with $3 turkey baster from parts store. then repeat same every about month. As fluid slowly cycles through the system. Not really a fancy luxury car way, but it's cheap and safe.

F250

As long as the fluid is being replaced about every two years, the repeated turkey baster approach over several months is adequate. The primary issue, though, is that the fluid be replaced about every two years.

salimshah

I dont think it is total wire. The abs module (motor and valves) sits between the master and slave. TechStream operates the valves for full flow through internal chambers ... that helps bleed completely and quicker.

If you have the patience just crack open the bleeder valve. Assuming you dont have large volume of air and blockage, the system will drain under gravity. The key thing is to make sure the master does not drain out completely .. keep it above 1/2 at all times.

2 person and 1 person standard bleed procedure should work (assuming no trapped air in the ABS module). Remember to place a block of wood under the foot pedal to limit the travel [you want to have the same travel as you have when the brakes are working normally .. master piston to move in the same range].

Disclaimer: My experience is based on First Gen RX.
Important: Never touch brakes on you own the first time. Be an apprentice to some one who has done the brake work and then do it couple of times under supervision and then tackle them on your own.

F250

Power bleeding will avoid trapped air in the ABS module. Something like this will let you DIY the power bleed at home... may not actuate all the little valves, but it keeps you safe from entrained air.

raytseng

as salim said, you cannot get "TOTAL" without a techstream. However, the STANDARD 4 corner brake fluid change pushing through a can of new fluid is good enough.

ukrkoz

Well, well, well. Guess, it's called different in hybrids. Same module in hybrids is called brake booster pump and actuator. ABS module is hidden in the trunk. I do not question that ABS module uses brake booster and actuator for ABS intention. But that's what drive by wire is. Do yourself a favor - go see if master cylinder hydraulic lines are actually going to brakes. No, right?
Reason I am careful with brake bleeding is because we had some folks that busted their BBBA module doing conventional bleeding. And no, it has nothing to do with hybrids regen braking, as braking systems are identical on hybrids and no hybrids. Regen is done in hybrid transmission, not in brakes proper.
So, like I said - Techstream. Or, turkey baster. BBBA module is $2800 OEM plus 2.5 hr labor to replace.

salimshah

OP wants DIY instructions for RX350. 350 uses vacuum assist for boosting the brake.

450 has to rely on electric pump for assist.

Drive by wire will be when we use joystick and buttons to operate. [like in game controllers .. you can still have pedals and wheel]

Hope it helps in clarifying terms.

Salim

GibbsLexus

iTrader: (1)

So I also have the option to just extract from Brake reservoir and it would cycle through then change out a month or 2 later? Will this be as effective as a actual flush?

F250

Extract and refill. If you want to take that approach, I would run about 100 miles between the "extract" and refill" routines, and consider it effectively changed after having done it 3-4x.

afpj

I'm not sure changing the fluid in the reservoir would do anything to the fluid in the lines especially at the corners. It's not like the power steering pump where the fluid recirculates back to the res. There is no brake fluid return line. Well, not that I've ever seen.

F250

You know.... you're making an excellent point, and I was not even thinking about that particular detail.

I retract... don't extract and refill only! To get a complete replacement, there needs to be some degree of flushing out the bleed nipples on each corner.

GibbsLexus

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice. To be safe and not sorry, I'm going to DIY a brake bleeder kit (32 oz empty bottle and a clear vacuum hose connected to bleeder line) then I'll either do the one man method or have the wife pump the brakes 1/2 way down starting from rear passenger and work back to the front driver. As long as I keep air out and the reservoir from complete empty, I should be fine. I'll share what I've done with the group along with pictures.

This will be my first time doing this so I'm not going to rush. I will do the same to my IS350 and my Yaris as well.

F250

I would suggest that you and your wife make a dry run through the process before you crack open the bleeder screws. Otherwise, it's just so easy for her to release the brake pedal out of sync with your tightening the bleeder, and then you're starting over again to get the air back out.

What I do with either my wife or kids' help is direct their foot action based on my wrench position....
- I call out "Down and HOLD"...
- I open bleeder and watch fluid flow....
- I close bleeder when fluid stops flowing...
- I call out "UP"...
- they confirm "OK" once the pedal gets to the top position again....
- repeat as often as required to complete the fluid purge -- generally when the fluid changes color.