MellonC00

I'm trying to do some at home maintenance work and finally decided to buy a floor jack instead just crawling under the car with only a little space. Is this the right jack? https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ump-62160.html
also where do you place this? Is there a specific point where these things go? Is the lift point model specific for our gen3 RX?

iolmaster

iTrader: (1)

If it were me I would go up to a 2.5 ton or 3 ton jack. The 1.5 ton jacks many times will not lift the car far enough. Yes, there are two points on each side the jack is to be placed. It is easy to see.

vlad_a

This guy will come out short, no pun intended. I believe I have the same one and I had to use a 4x4 to make a spacer to lift the RX.
Never work on a car sitting on a jack. You need jack stands for that.

Unless working on brakes or suspension, ramps are easier and quicker to use:
https://www.harborfreight.com/magnum...ock-67722.html
I believe I got mine at the Auto Zone.

mandyfig

Get the Long Reach high lift. It has to lift your SUV. The only thing that is sufficient is the long reach.

Like this, it goes to 22 inches:

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...ump-68050.html

mandyfig

I usually lift it using the frame, hence the long reach. I do not use the tradition chassis lift support, it will buckle down.

Airbalance

Lift points

Airbalance

Why can't I add 2 pixs to a post ?

salimshah

I have a slotted 4x4 block that I place underneath the side lift points and then use the floor jack. But in gen3, I have noticed that the two sides of the seam have a 1/8-1/4" difference. Now I have to slice the 4x4 down on one side. Pull out the scissors jack and you can see the two flat surfaces on are not even across the divide. One these days, I will have to make a metallic adapter. another incomplete project of mine .. microwave transformer stick welder.

I do have jack stands but they are not usable in the recommended position as they can not handle the seam. I have seen some vehicles with the chewed up seam .. ugh.

Salim

Clutchless

I too use the slotted 4x4 to fit on the side lift points when I use them. Mine are oak, and cut so they don't split, but I have seen some made from leftover Trex 4x4 pieces. I usually lift from the front and then place jack stands on the sides with the blocks on them. On the rear same thing or use my trailer hitch.

lexusrus

I agree with the other poster that a ramp maybe easier and faster. But the VERY FIRST TIME you try to drive the car up the ramps can be very intimidating and takes practice and a spotter to stand at the SIDE (NOT IN THE FRONT OR RISK GETTING HIT SHOULD YOU OVER SHOOT THE RAMP). SO in that respect, a car jack maybe the thing for you.

For the RX, I would get a heavier jack than the 1.5ton. I have TWO Jack's both bought from Harbor Freight. I have one that is racing jack low profile to fit under my sport cars which rides very low. My other jack is a 3 ton which will NOT fit under my sport cars, but for the RX it works great. I guess I COULD put wooden blocks under my low profile racing Jack's in order to get it to lift high enough for the RX. But I figured just get the right jack for the job.

Please observe safety by using JACK STANDS at at least two different points PLUS put a CHOKE at the rear tire in case the car rolls on you. The car should be on a flat surface anyway, but still need to be safe.

I use a THIRD redundancy safety measures by placing concrete blocks under the railings under the car (the concrete blocks are not touching the car. They are there just in case of a catastrophic jack stands failure. Just remember to remove the concrete blocks before lowering the car down).

Here is an interesting video on potential jack stands failure:


Be safe

MellonC00

Ok. Thank you everyone. You people are awesome with your knowledge and helpfulness.

slawless

Thanks for the Lift point diagram. Many manufacturers don't recommend lifting from the rear differential. Apparently its OK with Lexus. That makes it easy.