Pulsating brakes 3000 miles after replacing pads/rotos
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Pulsating brakes 3000 miles after replacing pads/rotos
I replaced the pads on rotors on my 2013 RX about 3000 miles ago and now I'm getting a pulsating when braking. I can barely feel it in the steering wheel but I can hear it when I brake at highway speeds. I took the brakes off to check and when i run my finger across the rotors and brakes both have like a wavy feeling to them and I can see brake dust spots across the rotors which looks like they're warped. Any idea what would have caused this? The car has about 50k miles and i cleaned the area where the rotors go before installing them. The pads are EBC green stuff and rotors are Centric Premium rotors. I also installed EBC green stuff pads on the rears at the same time but left the factory rotors as they were still smooth and they seem fine. Is it possible to get new pads and have the rotors cut or will have to replace everything?
#2
Lexus Champion
Did you lubricate sliding pins on front calipers when you took them off? They need to slide freely. It is common for Toyotas to seize up one of sliding pins due to moisture making its way in and rusting away.
#3
Moderator
Did you bed the pads in per the EBC instructions? I had them on my MINI Cooper and recall they were very specific about it.
I would follow vlad_a's advice and check the slide pins. I just had to replace a rear caliper bracket on my HS250h because of a seized slide pin which I found when doing a routine maintenance to clean and lubricate the pins. I had waited too long at 6 years and 60,000 miles as I got lazy because it was a hybrid. The pads had almost no wear!
I would also try the EBC bedding procedure again as you may just have pad build up on the rotors from a lot of gentle stops. Several hard stops may help scrape it away and stop the pulsation. Many technicians now think that most cases of apparent warped rotors are really pad build up on the rotors. I would consider lightly sanding the rotors with some 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper to remove any light build up, then flushing them clean with Brake Clean.
Let us know what you find or what works.
I would follow vlad_a's advice and check the slide pins. I just had to replace a rear caliper bracket on my HS250h because of a seized slide pin which I found when doing a routine maintenance to clean and lubricate the pins. I had waited too long at 6 years and 60,000 miles as I got lazy because it was a hybrid. The pads had almost no wear!
I would also try the EBC bedding procedure again as you may just have pad build up on the rotors from a lot of gentle stops. Several hard stops may help scrape it away and stop the pulsation. Many technicians now think that most cases of apparent warped rotors are really pad build up on the rotors. I would consider lightly sanding the rotors with some 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper to remove any light build up, then flushing them clean with Brake Clean.
Let us know what you find or what works.
#4
Rotors were not bedded in.
No, they will not self clean.
They need to be removed and either Blanchard ground or resurfaced and then bedded pretty much immediately. Same time, pads have to be resurfaced as now they are not flush due to pads material build up on rotors.
No, they will not self clean.
They need to be removed and either Blanchard ground or resurfaced and then bedded pretty much immediately. Same time, pads have to be resurfaced as now they are not flush due to pads material build up on rotors.
#5
I learned from experience not to get semi-metallic brake pads. When there is a fight between rotors and brake pads, you want brake pads to lose.
OP, not sure what kind of brake pads you have.
OP, not sure what kind of brake pads you have.
#6
you have transferred uneven pad deposits on the rotor. You should be able to get rid of the highspots with the 3M brake rotor conditioning discs on a drill attachment shank. 3M brake rotor conditioner pad or a ball hone attachment
Ball hone Another way is to find race pads that are extremely harsh for daily driving to scrub the surfaces. If you can locate race pads the pad type is FMSI 1005. Obviously you can get your rotors cut but you will reduce overall rotor life by removing material. The cost of cutting rotors may not be worth it and it may be easier just to get new rotors.
Ball hone Another way is to find race pads that are extremely harsh for daily driving to scrub the surfaces. If you can locate race pads the pad type is FMSI 1005. Obviously you can get your rotors cut but you will reduce overall rotor life by removing material. The cost of cutting rotors may not be worth it and it may be easier just to get new rotors.
Last edited by fastnoypi; 04-18-18 at 09:10 AM.
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