justin1203

My '10 350 has 87k on the ODO. With the 90k coming up, I'm beginning to purchase parts needed. I can do some of the work, but will still be using an independent for others.

Part of the 90k is replacing brake fluid. In the owners manual, it calls for DOT3 brake fluid. There are tons of options on Amazon. Found a Prestone synthetic DOT3 for $2.50 per 12 ounces.

My question is how many ounces do I need?

Also, does anyone use anything other than DOT3? Any noticeable difference in (what I presume is Toyota brake fluid and Prestone (or anything other brand).

Thanks!

txt

In my experience, I needed at least two 12-oz bottles of brake fluid.
It seemed I needed to push 6 oz ( half bottle) out of each caliper to rid the line of old fluid.
For Lexus, I just used generic DOT3 brake fluid and replaced it every 3 yrs.
I didn't notice any braking difference before and after fluid replacement.

rsutoratos

Toyota/Lexus brake fluid are fairly cheap and easy to obtain, I would mix DOT fluids, 5 is silicon based, so dont try it. Most are 3/4.

Clutchless

Do you have your own one man power or vacuum brake bleeder? They make the job a lot easier if doing it at home. I prefer the Mighty-Vac over the Motive as the Motive tends to leak fluid all over the place due to crappy seals over the master cylinder.
Brake fluid is one of those items where they are all synthetic, DOT 3 and/or 4 and interchangeable as far as performance. The pricing is such that you may as well get it at Wal-Mart or the local big chain auto parts store where they may have one brand on sale.

ThChinaman

If you top off the master cylinder without changing brake pads, be careful when pushing the caliper pistons back in next brake change because the master cylinder might overflow.

EA6BMECH

Well you can get pads from the local auto parts store. I'd get the dustless. Brake fluid change can be mess if you don't have a Mighty-Vac, but the real biggie is the bleed screw. Better hope it breaks loose!!!, that's most of the battle. Try to suck out most of the old fluid in the reservoir before you start, but then that will be going on as you replace your pads, because you have to squeeze each caliper back in and it will back fill the reservoir as you do each wheel. Then get a helper pump the brakes......push push...bleed, tighten bleed screw....repeat till the bubbles are gone. Going back to the brake pads, I have C-clamp Vice-Grips and it makes it really nice!! Also check the caliper guides/slides. Living in a salty area, they freeze up allot and it can be a ball buster getting them loose again to include pulling them apart and regreasing. Or......you buy new calipers!! You have to make the call on the turning the rotors. If your wheels don't shimmy when breaking and the surfaces look pretty good, might not have to do it. If $$ is no object, get them turned. Where I live, they only charge $8!! can you believe that sheet!! But if you're gonna take them off and get them turned, then you're gonna have to take the caliper "frame" off too. Just 2 more bolts. There should be YouTube vids out there to help you along. See.....piece of cake.....right?

isfdude

iTrader: (11)

Go with akebono pads and DOT4 brake fluid. Nothing wrong with a little more protection against heat.

m1964

I open the bleeder screws before pushing the piston back into the calipers- this way i do not push contaminated fluid back into the lines and master cylinder where it may destroy the seals.

isfdude

iTrader: (11)

But when you push the caliper all the way in it moves very slightly back allowing air in to the line.

roy7777

I liked ATE Blue Racing DOT4 in the past. But now they have a new SL.6 DOT4 which is good for ABS or ESP according to their website. Has anyone tried it?

http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/...bf_sl6_us.html






ATE SL.6 DOT4 Brake Fluid