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10k factory interval is pushing it. 18K is really stretching it. You RX may go German on you, as in the engine will gunk up and will need a replacement by end of warranty period.
I am already out of warranty with approx 134k miles. I admit it is stretched longer than I want, just busy. Keep in mind there is a portion of that where the engine is off because she is in very slow traffic on battery and synthetic oils have come a long way My opinion is that factory interval is confusing since our manual states every 8k kms, no way I am doing that! 10k miles seems reasonable.
My wife's RX is out of warranty (57k) and its not due for a oil change till 60k. I will either DIY using Mobil 1 0w20 (all I use) and OEM filter in the garage OR take it to the local Toyota dealer ( providing the oil/filter) for $15. These are my only 2 options. I do trust that other service shops will use the oil of choice unless I can observe them pouring the oil I provided.
My IS is too low and I don't have ramps. Ill bite the $15 and let the dealer do it while providing the oil and filter every 10k. The heck with this. LOL
10k is too long i don't care what they say. just like the transmission fluid is lifetime fluid. talked to many techs about both and they say 5k for oil changes and no more than 60k for trans fluid.
Just did the oil change a few weeks ago for the first time (just picked up our 2010 last month). It was more than I anticipated, but luckily had all the tools on hand to do the job.
This was the first time I saw a filter needing a special tool for removal and a little plastic drain for that filter. Besides that, it was fairly easy.
You don't even need to jack up the RX if you don't want to. Although it's easier to work under the RX if put on jack stands or ramps.
I wished the oil filter is set up on top of the engine like the MB, BMW, and other euro brands......this set is so easy to change the oill and filter. Still need a very specific oil wrench for each euro brand car/manufacturer.
Originally Posted by ZeRoSL
Just did the oil change a few weeks ago for the first time (just picked up our 2010 last month). It was more than I anticipated, but luckily had all the tools on hand to do the job.
This was the first time I saw a filter needing a special tool for removal and a little plastic drain for that filter. Besides that, it was fairly easy.
You don't even need to jack up the RX if you don't want to. Although it's easier to work under the RX if put on jack stands or ramps.
I wished the oil filter is set up on top of the engine like the MB, BMW, and other euro brands......this set is so easy to change the oill and filter. Still need a very specific oil wrench for each euro brand car/manufacturer.
I've got a very specific 26mm socket (kit) at Harbor Freight for my Audi's oil filter cap.
Lexus, on the other hand, required a special wrench.
I still prefer to work on Toyota's metal filter cap under the car to Audi's top plastic implementation. Don't need to worry about oil dripping over the engine when you pull the filter out. I put paper towels all around the filter area in the Audi.
So true. If you make a mess on top of the engine...... people will see and SMELL it (spilled oil burn off if on top of the engine,). Whereas if you make a mess at the bottom of the engine, few, if any, will ever know.
Believe it or not, the OIL filter housing in the LX570 is PLASTIC!!!
Originally Posted by vlad_a
I've got a very specific 26mm socket (kit) at Harbor Freight for my Audi's oil filter cap.
Lexus, on the other hand, required a special wrench.
I still prefer to work on Toyota's metal filter cap under the car to Audi's top plastic implementation. Don't need to worry about oil dripping over the engine when you pull the filter out. I put paper towels all around the filter area in the Audi.
Same for the 200 Series LandCruiser 4.5 litre V8 twin turbo engine. Plastic oil filter element cap. Yet the RX uses a metal cap.
A day will come when I cannot change the engine oil on my vehicles any longer, but as long as I can do it, I will. There is something quite satisfying about removing old oil and refilling fresh clean oil into an engine. And ensuring that the drain bolt is torqued correctly against the crush washer.
Not so satisfying is accidentally getting some old oil splatter onto your clothing when draining it into the large collection tank at the local council's recycling facility.
Just take it to places such as AutoZone or Discount Auto Parts. They will take your container and empty it and give it back to you.
Walmart is hit and miss. Some times they will do it for you. Other times you have to do it yourself.
Originally Posted by tempestv8
Same for the 200 Series LandCruiser 4.5 litre V8 twin turbo engine. Plastic oil filter element cap. Yet the RX uses a metal cap.
A day will come when I cannot change the engine oil on my vehicles any longer, but as long as I can do it, I will. There is something quite satisfying about removing old oil and refilling fresh clean oil into an engine. And ensuring that the drain bolt is torqued correctly against the crush washer.
Not so satisfying is accidentally getting some old oil splatter onto your clothing when draining it into the large collection tank at the local council's recycling facility.
Yes, I know these are mostly snake oils. And, No, I don't work for these guys. Yet, over 500 reviews with 4.5 star rating on Amazon isn't meaningless. I use it on my Mercedes diesel not for the promised HP gain or fuel savings but for noise reduction (diesels are loud). I think there is some fuel savings but frankly it's not deal braker either way for me.
Mellon, in regards to Archoil, I have seen a number of guys in the Ford 7.3L Power Stroke forum talk well about it in their diesels. I have not personally tried it, though. Having spent several years selling high-end synthetic lubes, I can tell you that all oil additives are not snake oils, but most are. In regards to engine oil, if you start with a high quality synthetic, the additional real value/benefit gained from an oil additive is negligible. Some of them can, and do, help upgrade lower quality oils, but I would personally rather buck up with a high quality oil to begin with and then completely skip any and all oil additives.
The thing is this, you can run extended OCI's if you want, but you are taking a risk. To best determine how long you can run your oil, I would take a fresh (unused) oil sample and a used oil at the end of your drain interval, and send them both to a lab like Blackstone to get a detailed analysis. Their report will tell you important things about your oil's viscosity retention (it breaks down with use), how well your additive package is holding up (or if it's completely consumed), and how the oil is affecting wear in your engine (wear metals showing up, or not). You typically don't want your oil to shear down below one grade less than where you started on the viscosity curve. Your personal driving style, combustion climate (i.e. quality and cleanliness of your intake filter) and quality of oil will dictate how long of a drain interval you can safely run without long term issues.
Last comment... Just claiming that "synthetics have gotten way better" is neither an educated nor reasonable basis for running exceptionally long drain intervals! Do that long enough, and it can very easily bite you in the a$$, especially in the $$ part of it!
Doing some simple maintenance on your car is just like most things in life... It appears so complicated at first because you're not familiar with it, but once you've done it you realize there's really nothing to it.
I like doing the maintenance items on my car because I like to know that the work has actually been done, done correctly, and done with quality parts/ fluids. And I also find it rewarding. The $ savings is nice, but the other reasons are of more importantance to me.
Every place is different, but one thing I noticed when I was taking my cars in for oil changes when I was younger was that it seemed they would always overfill it no matter where I went.
I purchased the OEM Lexus filter and the Mobil 1 extended performance filter to compare the two. I thought you guys might like seeing a comparison as I thought it was kinda shocking the difference in quality and weight. You can guess which one I went with...
08-29-17, 07:51 AM
My opinion is that factory interval is confusing since our manual states every 8k kms, no way I am doing that! 10k miles seems reasonable.
