I currently have a rack and pinion that needs to be replaced on my 2012 RX350 with 78k Miles on it. I was checking rock auto and saw different options with hydraulic and manual being the difference between them. Has anyone replaced their rack and pinion from rock auto and if so kindly advise

 

The steering rack on the 2010-2015 RX350 is electric(or just mechanical) so it has no hydraulic lines.

The actual electric power assist steering motor is located under the steering column which connects to the rack.

I would assume that it is the manual rack option since it has no power assist by itself as that the rack need the electric motor to work.

The product descriptions are incorrect about these RX350 racks sold being hydraulic. The racks do not even have fluid lines on them in the pictures.

 

which one would you recommend for me to get?

 

I personally would go for the cheaper $150 option. However, I would swap the rack myself so no big deal if the rack fails a few years later.

If you are paying an repair shop to replace the rack then I would just go with a better quality(or brand name) rack like the Cardone remanufactured version. However, the best option would be a new OEM rack sold and installed at a dealership if you have the budget for that expense.

 

Interested to know what might have led up to the rack and pinion problem; city driving on rough streets, worn shocks or tires, etc or if rack and pinion worm gears been serviced ? Thanks.

 

Yep, this is what I was thinking. I mean, 70K+ miles is honestly nothing on this rack and pinion so either something else is going on and you think it is the rack and pinion, or it is the rack and pinion and something rough was done to cause it to wear prematurely, or get damaged. I have a 2015 RX with 170K on it and no rack and pinion issues at all; in fact, no suspension issues ever except the usual control arm bushings wore out and so replaced those a few months ago, but they lasted till about 150K miles.

So...what gives?

 

BTW, if you do replace it, and you plan to keep the car, I would spring for the OEM. Yeah, not cheap, but you get what you pay for with OEM Lexus parts in a critical area like this. Plus you get the inner tie rods with it so a win win.