Electrical problem car will not start
#16
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I desperate to see someone post the wiring diagram from battery to fuse box. alternator and starter. I think problem somewhere in this circuit. I found no +12vdc at fuse box labeled +.
Two big fuses 140A and 100A I can not pullout to check it. I wonder should I remove the main fuse box to access to those fuses.
Any idea from the group?
Thanks
Two big fuses 140A and 100A I can not pullout to check it. I wonder should I remove the main fuse box to access to those fuses.
Any idea from the group?
Thanks
I wonder 140A and 100A fuses can be pull out or unless they bolted down that I need to dissemble the fuse box?
#17
Last night I discovers on of the terminal with screw labeled + on the main fuse box does not measured 12 VDC respected to Gnd. I need to close look where it wired to. It must be a fuse or something disconnect the 12vdc+ from battery terminal to main fuse box +.terminal. Any idea?
Thanks
Thanks
The fusible links are held in by screws. It requires some disassembly of the fuse box to access the screws. Looks to be doable but very fiddly to replace the links.
The fusible links look similar (but not exactly) like this:
Fusible links blowing when battery polarity is reversed is very common. I think you have found the problem (or at least part of it).
#18
Never went through this myself although JoeInHNL is correct, doesn't appear to be a simple DIY.
Hopefully a CL Member who went through this issue can chime in.
I'm thinking about installing a breaker as a preventive measure.
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe that the terminal labeled + goes to the alternator, and if there is no voltage on the terminal then the alternator fusible link is blown. You can confirm this by checking for continuity between the + terminal and the alternator output terminal.
The fusible links are held in by screws. It requires some disassembly of the fuse box to access the screws. Looks to be doable but very fiddly to replace the links.
The fusible links look similar (but not exactly) like this:
Fusible links blowing when battery polarity is reversed is very common. I think you have found the problem (or at least part of it).
The fusible links are held in by screws. It requires some disassembly of the fuse box to access the screws. Looks to be doable but very fiddly to replace the links.
The fusible links look similar (but not exactly) like this:
Fusible links blowing when battery polarity is reversed is very common. I think you have found the problem (or at least part of it).
#20
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I imagine that's the reason why some try to find alternatives, install a breaker that is easily accessible, if an issue occurs, press a button, your good to go.
Never went through this myself although JoeInHNL is correct, doesn't appear to be a simple DIY.
Hopefully a CL Member who went through this issue can chime in.
I'm thinking about installing a breaker as a preventive measure.
Never went through this myself although JoeInHNL is correct, doesn't appear to be a simple DIY.
Hopefully a CL Member who went through this issue can chime in.
I'm thinking about installing a breaker as a preventive measure.
Right now I just need to make the car start and no fix any other problems caused by reversing the battery polarity.
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I desperate to see someone post the wiring diagram from battery to fuse box. alternator and starter. I think problem somewhere in this circuit. I found no +12vdc at fuse box labeled +.
Two big fuses 140A and 100A I can not pullout to check it. I wonder should I remove the main fuse box to access to those fuses.
Any idea from the group?
Thanks
Two big fuses 140A and 100A I can not pullout to check it. I wonder should I remove the main fuse box to access to those fuses.
Any idea from the group?
Thanks
I need to do the same thing to generator. May be tomorrow.
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I work on main fuse box. See some tabs around the fuse box. Cannot figure out how to disassemble the box yet. I will try do some more research on youtube tonight.
#23
Racer
A fuse provides better protection than a circuit breaker. This is because the circuit breaker takes at least twice the time to "trip" as it does for a fuse to "blow", subjecting the equipment to longer periods of short circuit situations. This is of importance when you are trying to protect electronics.
#24
A fuse provides better protection than a circuit breaker. This is because the circuit breaker takes at least twice the time to "trip" as it does for a fuse to "blow", subjecting the equipment to longer periods of short circuit situations. This is of importance when you are trying to protect electronics.
#25
Racer
If you install a circuit breaker in series with a fuse, the fuse will still blow before the circuit breaker trips even if you use an "A" category circuit breaker. If the fuse was in the slo-blow category, maybe not, but slo-blow fuses are generally not used in cars.
Circuit breakers have a letter that represents the reaction time for how fast it will trip. The letters used are A B C and D. When you look on the circuit breaker (or the spec sheet), the letter will be after the number that is the amperage rating. For example, a 15 amp circuit breaker could have 15A or 15B or 15C or 15D on it. If you were looking at the fast trip 15A breaker, many people assume that the A means amps.
The reaction time rating is not so much of a time factor (but it is a part of it), it is a current factor. The A category has a range that starts at 10 times the rated current amount and goes to some amount that I forget. Then the B category range. The D category trip range is several hundred times the rated amperage.
Circuit breakers have a letter that represents the reaction time for how fast it will trip. The letters used are A B C and D. When you look on the circuit breaker (or the spec sheet), the letter will be after the number that is the amperage rating. For example, a 15 amp circuit breaker could have 15A or 15B or 15C or 15D on it. If you were looking at the fast trip 15A breaker, many people assume that the A means amps.
The reaction time rating is not so much of a time factor (but it is a part of it), it is a current factor. The A category has a range that starts at 10 times the rated current amount and goes to some amount that I forget. Then the B category range. The D category trip range is several hundred times the rated amperage.
#26
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you install a circuit breaker in series with a fuse, the fuse will still blow before the circuit breaker trips even if you use an "A" category circuit breaker. If the fuse was in the slo-blow category, maybe not, but slo-blow fuses are generally not used in cars.
Circuit breakers have a letter that represents the reaction time for how fast it will trip. The letters used are A B C and D. When you look on the circuit breaker (or the spec sheet), the letter will be after the number that is the amperage rating. For example, a 15 amp circuit breaker could have 15A or 15B or 15C or 15D on it. If you were looking at the fast trip 15A breaker, many people assume that the A means amps.
The reaction time rating is not so much of a time factor (but it is a part of it), it is a current factor. The A category has a range that starts at 10 times the rated current amount and goes to some amount that I forget. Then the B category range. The D category trip range is several hundred times the rated amperage.
Circuit breakers have a letter that represents the reaction time for how fast it will trip. The letters used are A B C and D. When you look on the circuit breaker (or the spec sheet), the letter will be after the number that is the amperage rating. For example, a 15 amp circuit breaker could have 15A or 15B or 15C or 15D on it. If you were looking at the fast trip 15A breaker, many people assume that the A means amps.
The reaction time rating is not so much of a time factor (but it is a part of it), it is a current factor. The A category has a range that starts at 10 times the rated current amount and goes to some amount that I forget. Then the B category range. The D category trip range is several hundred times the rated amperage.
I still thinking two bad designs in car industry is use inline cable fuse and hard to replace the fuses. I do not see why? That is very basic engineering practice. Anyone agree?
#27
Same goes for how well the rear spark plugs are hidden.
#29
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It took a few hours to looked at around the fuse box and bottom.Found a few tabs about haft way around the fuse box. Use long think flat screw driver unlocked these tabs.
From top of the inside box have another tab near 100A and 140A fuse. Unlock the tab with long flat screw drive and slow push entirely the fuses assembly down. work on this steps four or five times until these fuse are push down from the fuse box. Found 4 screws to hold the fuses to their own housing. Carefully notice somes wire connected to the screws. Remove the wires.
Now I can pull out these big fuses, 140A and 100A, have long male terminals are hold to their own assemble female housing.
Went to Toyota got the fuses. Found the price are half comparing to Lexus .
I guess I will stop today and go to play golf.
Will continue to install new fuses and assemble the fuse box, checkout the wiring of the alternator and do some voltage check before start the engine.