Mobil-1 5W-30 Oil & Mobil 1 M1-102 Oil Filter
#16
Previous Owner
SMH @ buying a Lexus and using dino
Anyway, your combo is fine, you should have no problems. You may want to get a UOA perhaps to extend OCI's.
With that many miles, you may need to consider a high mileage, full synth. Castrol HM or Valvoline MaxLIfe....
Anyway, your combo is fine, you should have no problems. You may want to get a UOA perhaps to extend OCI's.
With that many miles, you may need to consider a high mileage, full synth. Castrol HM or Valvoline MaxLIfe....
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=DixieLex;9893509)
With that many miles, you may need to consider a high mileage, full synth. Castrol HM or Valvoline MaxLIfe....[/QUOTE]
For those brands, I most likely would have to rob a bank for purchase here on this tiny island in Canada.
Extremely limited choice if ever on sale, dino oil is more expensive here than the most expensive oils available in the US.
With that many miles, you may need to consider a high mileage, full synth. Castrol HM or Valvoline MaxLIfe....[/QUOTE]
For those brands, I most likely would have to rob a bank for purchase here on this tiny island in Canada.
Extremely limited choice if ever on sale, dino oil is more expensive here than the most expensive oils available in the US.
#19
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
I don't agree with this, although synthetics have come a long way, not always is synthetic superior to dino. Nothing wrong with running dino as long as your OCI's are strict and you use a high quality filter (which you should be using anyways). Back in the day when I had a '95 ES300, all you wanted to put into it was dino even with this new marketing hype of "synthetic" in the early 2000's. Again it's come a long way but many, including myself, were skeptical of it. I've finally recently caved in myself but I've ran dino almost my entire time being able to own a car.
My old highlander was strictly dino at 2000-2500K intervals and that thing was cleaner than my used RX330 which has a dealer maintenance record of full synthetic at 5-7K mile intervals when I pulled the valve covers.
You can't even put synthetic oil into rotary engine LOL, my buddy's turbo RX7 is still strictly dino.
My old highlander was strictly dino at 2000-2500K intervals and that thing was cleaner than my used RX330 which has a dealer maintenance record of full synthetic at 5-7K mile intervals when I pulled the valve covers.
You can't even put synthetic oil into rotary engine LOL, my buddy's turbo RX7 is still strictly dino.
#20
SMH at this comment, Don't just assume synthetic > dino. There are good dinos and poor synthetics. The specfic oil needs to be considered, not just a word on the bottle.
UOA's are helpful to determine OCI even if not intending to extend and can give insight to the health of the engine.
UOA's are helpful to determine OCI even if not intending to extend and can give insight to the health of the engine.
#22
Lead Lap
Trans drain and fills are always good imo, so easy to do on these too as we have dipsticks. Back on topic, I ran two oci''s on Mobil I high mileage full syn as I can see brittle fipg around my valve covers etc, just to help soften fipg up. Just changed oil again an now using Mobil I regular full syn 5w30, wanted to switch back to oil with less additive and viscosity. Imo engine is quieter at start up and with hood open.
#25
#26
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'll be towing only 700 miles, if all goes well, I'm hoping to wait a couple of months with the just newly changed ATF as the RX will be used sparingly afterwards with no towing.
#27
High mileage oil merely has the additives the regular oil should have had in the first place and will not swell seals, lol
Sythetic is superior every way shape and form. Back in the day when they were first appearing, they didn't have the right antiwear additives in extreme pressure locations and would blow engines. Because of that, in 2017, we are finally accepting as a mass, that synthetic is better. More importantly change your air filter every 10k.
M1 will likely be ok, but I would suggest you purchase the Extended Performance the next time around. Pennzoil Ultra Platnium will do better than M1 in this engine.
Is ordering online in Canada not an option?
Sythetic is superior every way shape and form. Back in the day when they were first appearing, they didn't have the right antiwear additives in extreme pressure locations and would blow engines. Because of that, in 2017, we are finally accepting as a mass, that synthetic is better. More importantly change your air filter every 10k.
M1 will likely be ok, but I would suggest you purchase the Extended Performance the next time around. Pennzoil Ultra Platnium will do better than M1 in this engine.
Is ordering online in Canada not an option?
#28
changing your transfluid at this point can be very risky, you have no idea what's happened to the clutch and friction plates. I would suggest a UOA on the trans fluid and just a top up if the fluid has never been changed. I've seen lots of blown transmissions in my day from fluid changes.
#29
changing your transfluid at this point can be very risky, you have no idea what's happened to the clutch and friction plates. I would suggest a UOA on the trans fluid and just a top up if the fluid has never been changed. I've seen lots of blown transmissions in my day from fluid changes.
#30
avoid those flushes at all costs lol.
Simple fluid change yes if the friction modifiers are embedded in the oil. Can easily wipe out trans. I've literally seen it happen too many times.
Simple fluid change yes if the friction modifiers are embedded in the oil. Can easily wipe out trans. I've literally seen it happen too many times.