Valve Cover Spark Plugs PCV Coil pack replacement Experience Buying Guide References
03-11-17, 07:51 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Valve Cover Spark Plugs PCV Coil pack replacement Experience Buying Guide References
Finally did the job, and wanted to give my experience.
Took me 2 days but knowing what I know now. It can be done in one day.
I will be doing this job again on my other RX (Later this year) and plan on doing a video if members request me to.
I will be updating this post with pics and videos
I am just doing a quick experience guide in case you are going to do this job before I do my second RX.
Tools needed
10mm deep socket
12mm deep socket
14mm deep socket
19mm deep socket (for PCV valve replacement)
Number 6 Torx socket (need this for the 2 bolts holding the plastic harness on the front cover)
8mm Hex socket
12mm STUBBY ratcheting wrench
14mm STUBBY ratcheting wrench
Socket extensions
Ultra Black Permatex Gasket maker
Razor blade (to scrape off the old gasket maker)
Pliers
Throttle body cleaner
Gloves
PCV valve
Breaker bar (for 12mm bolts on strut tower to remove wiper cowel)
Toyota Red Coolant (worth it to buy red and mix, instead of buying pink 50/50) $27.10 at my Lexus dealer
6 NGK or Denzo Spark Plugs (I called the manufacturer and they said not to put anti seize on these plugs)
Dielectric grease (to be placed on ceramic coating of the plugs only)
Where to buy?
Advance Auto parts has great deals with coupons
Sign up here first: https://tinyurl.com/zslllv3
You will get $10 just for signing up. Then when you make your purchase you will get back 4% off any purchase. Works at other stores too.
After you sign up. Search for Advance Auto Parts. It will then redirect you to advance auto parts website where you will check out. Do not hit the back button or it will loose the tracking ticket and you wont get your 4% cash back. I suggest to sign in to advance auto parts first, Add everything to the car, Add your coupons, then close that window. Login to the cashbackwebsite search for advance auto parts. Click on the 4%. It will then take you to your advance autoparts cart. And check out. Again, do no hit the back button or close that window.
Coupons code to use at Advance Auto Parts
Code: A124 $25 off of $75 (buy one spark plug coil and one permatex dielectric grease)
Code: TRT41 $40 off $100
SPARK PLUGS: $8.99 each
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...rm=spark+plugs
Gaskets Needed
Felpro Valve Cover Gasket. Part number: VS 50588 R $19.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...e+cover+gasket
(the color on the website is black. But they are blue)
Throttle body gasket with metal mesh (Was in perfect condition but replaced anyway) Part No. 61276 $11.49
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...le+body+gasket
Throttle body gasket (was in perfect condition but replaced anyway) $7.39
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...le+body+gasket
Plenum Felpro gasket set (Was in perfect but replaced anyway) $20.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...rchTerm=gasket
Spark Plugs Needed
Spark Plug Coil Pack Part No. 673-1301 $74.29 with Coupon A124 and filler comes out to be $50 or on amazon for $57
AA 75.29 with coupon $50 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...034%7CL3*16064
or
AMAZON ($57.78) http://tinyurl.com/hh4kyd7
PCV Valve Needed $4.39
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...982%7CL3*15301
Filler
Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease $1.49 (you can buy the larger tube or buy individual to use as filler for advance auto parts coupon codes)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...9980/7730006-P
Skill Level: Moderate.
Getting Started
Start by placing your car in a place where it wont be moved for at least 2 days. The gasket maker takes 24 hour to cure. So you won't be able to start it.
Remove Battery cables (10mm)
Place a catch bucket under the car for coolant.
Wiper Cowel Removal
Remove Wiper Cowel: See post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...iper-cowl.html
(some people say it can be done with wiper assembly on but why deal with the hassle. It should take you 15-20 mins to remove
Spark Plug Removal
VIDEO removal on an ES330:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-3-engine.html
Additional Notes
This video is very helpful. He just messed me up with he spark plug tube seals, which he had in upside down. According to Felpro tech support the gasket has to go bevel side down. In the rubber you will see a circular spring. The spring side should be facing up toward the hood when valve cover is reinstalled.
When removing the "stay" bolts (with your stubby ratchet wrench) on the throttle body (12mm) and intake plenum (14mm). Follow the stay to the base, and remove that bolt as well. This will help in reinstall of the top bolt. And free up space to access the rear valve cover bolts.
Also you will see a large round wire harness running over the rear valve cover. Follow the wire to the right side (driver side) It will be attached by a 12mm nut.
Remove that nut. On the left side (passenger side) the harness is also attached. Remove the plug and the ground wire. (I will post pictures of this soon). There is plastic harness holder holding the wire bundle at the rear. You only need to undo the one with the exhaust o2 sensor cable. No need to remove the o2 sensor clip, just the plastic holder. This will give you extra space to raise the wire harness to remove and replace the rear cover.
Spark Plug write up by Alchemist :
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...with-pics.html
Valve Cover Removal
Front Cover:
This is the easiest gasket to get to. Do this first, to get a feel for the bolts/plug change/ gasket change.
Remove the bottom plastic shield (10mm bolts) Same front plastic shield you remove to change the filter/oil.
Locate the radiator drain plug. It will be on the left (passenger side)
Drain the radiator to remove some coolant
Use pliers to remove the large hose that crosses over the valve cover.
Remove the two bolts with the number 6 torx socket
Remove the 3 10 mm bolt holding the coil pack on.
Remove the 9 bolts holding on the cover
Scrape off any gasket residue from the top of the engine and from the valve cover
You can spray some de-greaser on the valve cover
Replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals.
For the tube seals: Just use a hammer and a flat head screw driver to punch the tab up and bend it back in place
Make sure you put the tube seals in the right direction.
Use some oil to slide the tube seals in place if needed
Place a thin coat of Permatex Ultra Black on any corners and around the cam hump
Install the valve cover but do not tighten too tight. Wait 1 hour for the gasket maker to harden. Then Tighten the bolts.
When tightening the bolts (5ft lb) start from the inside and work out.
Rear Valve Cover
If you have followed the directions from the video/ and alchemist, have removed the stay bolts (top and bottom) and the wire harness points of attachment, you
should be ready to start removing the bolts.
Remove the 3 10mm bolts on the coil packs and remove out of the spark plug cylinders.
All the bolts on the rear cover should be easy to remove and replace with a socket wrench at this point except one
One of the middle bolts will be hard to fit a wrench from the top. You can go under the car with an extension and undo it or use your stubby wrench
Make sure you have all the bolts out before attempting to pry up.
Until this point you were able to do by your self. Have someone hold the wire harness up while removing the rear cover.
You will need that same helper to put it back in.
Clean the old gasket maker off the valve cover and top of engine.
Remove the PCV valve with your 19mm deep socket.
Replace the tube seals and valve cover gasket (hammer and flat head screwdriver technique as described above)
Reinstall PCV valve.
Place thin coat of Ultra Black Permatex around corners and over Cam hump
Tighten bolts from inside out.
Replace everything in reverse order.
Spray engine degreaser to remove old oil
Start the car and let idle for 10 mins.
Test drive to check for oil leak.
Last NOTE
The two hardest bolts to get to were the 14mm and the 12mm on the back of the intake plenum.
As stated above. Follow the stay arm to where it is attached to the engine and remove that bolt as well.
When reinstalling the intake plenum, install the top bolt first then the bottom. The 14mm bolt can be accessed from under the car. The 12mm bolt can be accessed before reinstalling the throttle body.
I will be updating this post with pictures/ updated coupons/ video.
Special thanks to T.J.M for answering all my emails and HtownBLUE for helping me get through this project.
Took me 2 days but knowing what I know now. It can be done in one day.
I will be doing this job again on my other RX (Later this year) and plan on doing a video if members request me to.
I will be updating this post with pics and videos
I am just doing a quick experience guide in case you are going to do this job before I do my second RX.
Tools needed
10mm deep socket
12mm deep socket
14mm deep socket
19mm deep socket (for PCV valve replacement)
Number 6 Torx socket (need this for the 2 bolts holding the plastic harness on the front cover)
8mm Hex socket
12mm STUBBY ratcheting wrench
14mm STUBBY ratcheting wrench
Socket extensions
Ultra Black Permatex Gasket maker
Razor blade (to scrape off the old gasket maker)
Pliers
Throttle body cleaner
Gloves
PCV valve
Breaker bar (for 12mm bolts on strut tower to remove wiper cowel)
Toyota Red Coolant (worth it to buy red and mix, instead of buying pink 50/50) $27.10 at my Lexus dealer
6 NGK or Denzo Spark Plugs (I called the manufacturer and they said not to put anti seize on these plugs)
Dielectric grease (to be placed on ceramic coating of the plugs only)
Where to buy?
Advance Auto parts has great deals with coupons
Sign up here first: https://tinyurl.com/zslllv3
You will get $10 just for signing up. Then when you make your purchase you will get back 4% off any purchase. Works at other stores too.
After you sign up. Search for Advance Auto Parts. It will then redirect you to advance auto parts website where you will check out. Do not hit the back button or it will loose the tracking ticket and you wont get your 4% cash back. I suggest to sign in to advance auto parts first, Add everything to the car, Add your coupons, then close that window. Login to the cashbackwebsite search for advance auto parts. Click on the 4%. It will then take you to your advance autoparts cart. And check out. Again, do no hit the back button or close that window.
Coupons code to use at Advance Auto Parts
Code: A124 $25 off of $75 (buy one spark plug coil and one permatex dielectric grease)
Code: TRT41 $40 off $100
SPARK PLUGS: $8.99 each
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...rm=spark+plugs
Gaskets Needed
Felpro Valve Cover Gasket. Part number: VS 50588 R $19.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...e+cover+gasket
(the color on the website is black. But they are blue)
Throttle body gasket with metal mesh (Was in perfect condition but replaced anyway) Part No. 61276 $11.49
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...le+body+gasket
Throttle body gasket (was in perfect condition but replaced anyway) $7.39
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...le+body+gasket
Plenum Felpro gasket set (Was in perfect but replaced anyway) $20.99
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...rchTerm=gasket
Spark Plugs Needed
Spark Plug Coil Pack Part No. 673-1301 $74.29 with Coupon A124 and filler comes out to be $50 or on amazon for $57
AA 75.29 with coupon $50 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...034%7CL3*16064
or
AMAZON ($57.78) http://tinyurl.com/hh4kyd7
PCV Valve Needed $4.39
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...982%7CL3*15301
Filler
Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease $1.49 (you can buy the larger tube or buy individual to use as filler for advance auto parts coupon codes)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...9980/7730006-P
Skill Level: Moderate.
Getting Started
Start by placing your car in a place where it wont be moved for at least 2 days. The gasket maker takes 24 hour to cure. So you won't be able to start it.
Remove Battery cables (10mm)
Place a catch bucket under the car for coolant.
Wiper Cowel Removal
Remove Wiper Cowel: See post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...iper-cowl.html
(some people say it can be done with wiper assembly on but why deal with the hassle. It should take you 15-20 mins to remove
Spark Plug Removal
VIDEO removal on an ES330:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-3-engine.html
Additional Notes
This video is very helpful. He just messed me up with he spark plug tube seals, which he had in upside down. According to Felpro tech support the gasket has to go bevel side down. In the rubber you will see a circular spring. The spring side should be facing up toward the hood when valve cover is reinstalled.
When removing the "stay" bolts (with your stubby ratchet wrench) on the throttle body (12mm) and intake plenum (14mm). Follow the stay to the base, and remove that bolt as well. This will help in reinstall of the top bolt. And free up space to access the rear valve cover bolts.
Also you will see a large round wire harness running over the rear valve cover. Follow the wire to the right side (driver side) It will be attached by a 12mm nut.
Remove that nut. On the left side (passenger side) the harness is also attached. Remove the plug and the ground wire. (I will post pictures of this soon). There is plastic harness holder holding the wire bundle at the rear. You only need to undo the one with the exhaust o2 sensor cable. No need to remove the o2 sensor clip, just the plastic holder. This will give you extra space to raise the wire harness to remove and replace the rear cover.
Spark Plug write up by Alchemist :
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...with-pics.html
Valve Cover Removal
Front Cover:
This is the easiest gasket to get to. Do this first, to get a feel for the bolts/plug change/ gasket change.
Remove the bottom plastic shield (10mm bolts) Same front plastic shield you remove to change the filter/oil.
Locate the radiator drain plug. It will be on the left (passenger side)
Drain the radiator to remove some coolant
Use pliers to remove the large hose that crosses over the valve cover.
Remove the two bolts with the number 6 torx socket
Remove the 3 10 mm bolt holding the coil pack on.
Remove the 9 bolts holding on the cover
Scrape off any gasket residue from the top of the engine and from the valve cover
You can spray some de-greaser on the valve cover
Replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals.
For the tube seals: Just use a hammer and a flat head screw driver to punch the tab up and bend it back in place
Make sure you put the tube seals in the right direction.
Use some oil to slide the tube seals in place if needed
Place a thin coat of Permatex Ultra Black on any corners and around the cam hump
Install the valve cover but do not tighten too tight. Wait 1 hour for the gasket maker to harden. Then Tighten the bolts.
When tightening the bolts (5ft lb) start from the inside and work out.
Rear Valve Cover
If you have followed the directions from the video/ and alchemist, have removed the stay bolts (top and bottom) and the wire harness points of attachment, you
should be ready to start removing the bolts.
Remove the 3 10mm bolts on the coil packs and remove out of the spark plug cylinders.
All the bolts on the rear cover should be easy to remove and replace with a socket wrench at this point except one
One of the middle bolts will be hard to fit a wrench from the top. You can go under the car with an extension and undo it or use your stubby wrench
Make sure you have all the bolts out before attempting to pry up.
Until this point you were able to do by your self. Have someone hold the wire harness up while removing the rear cover.
You will need that same helper to put it back in.
Clean the old gasket maker off the valve cover and top of engine.
Remove the PCV valve with your 19mm deep socket.
Replace the tube seals and valve cover gasket (hammer and flat head screwdriver technique as described above)
Reinstall PCV valve.
Place thin coat of Ultra Black Permatex around corners and over Cam hump
Tighten bolts from inside out.
Replace everything in reverse order.
Spray engine degreaser to remove old oil
Start the car and let idle for 10 mins.
Test drive to check for oil leak.
Last NOTE
The two hardest bolts to get to were the 14mm and the 12mm on the back of the intake plenum.
As stated above. Follow the stay arm to where it is attached to the engine and remove that bolt as well.
When reinstalling the intake plenum, install the top bolt first then the bottom. The 14mm bolt can be accessed from under the car. The 12mm bolt can be accessed before reinstalling the throttle body.
I will be updating this post with pictures/ updated coupons/ video.
Special thanks to T.J.M for answering all my emails and HtownBLUE for helping me get through this project.
Last edited by TriniLex; 03-11-17 at 09:33 AM. Reason: error
The following 7 users liked this post by TriniLex:
iMSQ (12-26-21),
JBSGROUP (10-12-23),
JimmyRX350 (06-23-22),
Lexuswiz (03-12-17),
Mkot9 (06-26-22),
and 2 others liked this post.
03-11-17, 08:45 AM
#2
Nice write up friend. Glad you took my advice and got the stubby wrenches. And you are correct, this can be done in a day. By the book it is a 6 hour job, for an experienced mechanic that is. Glad it worked out and you're rolling again.
03-11-17, 09:41 AM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am going to be doing it again on my other RX. Hopefully I knock it out in 6.
Spent a whole day walking back and forth for parts.. Car was down. Youtube video showed the spark plugs gasket upside down. Had to buy 3 valve cover gaskets after it was all said and done.
Spent a whole day walking back and forth for parts.. Car was down. Youtube video showed the spark plugs gasket upside down. Had to buy 3 valve cover gaskets after it was all said and done.
The following users liked this post:
cdnewton (07-30-17)
03-14-17, 09:48 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 5
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Great post, I wish it was posted 2 weeks ago. I had trouble with the middle bolt of the intake plenum, I gave up, put it together with the 2 bolts and took to Lexus for middle bolt. They did the same thing you suggested, take out bolt from stay arm on the engine and do the upper bolts first. Not sure why I never thought of that. Still glad I did the job myself.
03-15-17, 08:08 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
Spark Plug Removal
VIDEO removal on an ES330:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-3-engine.html
Additional Notes
This video is very helpful. He just messed me up with he spark plug tube seals, which he had in upside down. According to Felpro tech support the gasket has to go bevel side down. In the rubber you will see a circular spring. The spring side should be facing up toward the hood when valve cover is reinstalled.
When removing the "stay" bolts (with your stubby ratchet wrench) on the throttle body (12mm) and intake plenum (14mm). Follow the stay to the base, and remove that bolt as well. This will help in reinstall of the top bolt. And free up space to access the rear valve cover bolts.
VIDEO removal on an ES330:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-3-engine.html
Additional Notes
This video is very helpful. He just messed me up with he spark plug tube seals, which he had in upside down. According to Felpro tech support the gasket has to go bevel side down. In the rubber you will see a circular spring. The spring side should be facing up toward the hood when valve cover is reinstalled.
When removing the "stay" bolts (with your stubby ratchet wrench) on the throttle body (12mm) and intake plenum (14mm). Follow the stay to the base, and remove that bolt as well. This will help in reinstall of the top bolt. And free up space to access the rear valve cover bolts.
As for the valve cover gasket, I presume your referring to my 1MZ-FE valve cover gasket video. A lot of people commented that I installed those tube seals upsided down. Logically, they do seem upsided down as they didn't naturally want to seat onto the tubes when installing the cover (I had to do some wiggling and run a screw driver around it to get them on there). However, I did install them in the same direction the old ones were installed in my vehicle, which I presume from how hard and rotten they were, probably the originals.
Maybe I missed it, but it might be worth mentioning your procedure is good for the RX330 with the 3MZ 3.3L and may differ slightly for those with the RX350 3.5L 2GR motor.
03-03-18, 06:26 AM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
This another RX330 valve job.
I am still having problems with the plenum bolts
Any suggestions when putting them back together.. Should I try from underneath?
My 2nd time experience.
1. I placed labeled bolts in bags this time
2. I made sure to mark vacuum hoses.
3. I had a catch towel to absorb all the coolant
4. I placed the tube seals in the proper direction (see picture..The 2 on the right in the picture is the correct direction)
5. I removed the TB and the right Plenum bracket from the plenum and the engine so there was more room at the back.
6. I removed the wire harness nut holding the wire harness on the right of the engine (this helps when removing the rear valve cover
Problems the 2nd time around
1. Driver wiper did not want to come off. So I had to remove the plastic cowel/arm assembly with arm in one piece (I was able to get my under the cowel to remove the bolt
2. I broke the middle coil pack clip (it just broke apart. I hope it can stay in somehow) Anyone know if I can replace just that one?
Other Tips on removing rear valve cover
The far right bolt can be removed with an extension and a 10mm socket (no problem)
The far left bolt can be removed with a flex socket wrench and an extension
Also I attached a picture how to use the pliers to bend the tabs on the tube seal
The middle two bolts can be removed with the stubby ratchet 10mm
attached are some pictures showing the half moons which I left alone.
In one pic you can see towards the middle I have some sort of carbon build up?? I just scraped it of? Is it carbon or is this considered sludge?
I am still having problems with the plenum bolts
Any suggestions when putting them back together.. Should I try from underneath?
My 2nd time experience.
1. I placed labeled bolts in bags this time
2. I made sure to mark vacuum hoses.
3. I had a catch towel to absorb all the coolant
4. I placed the tube seals in the proper direction (see picture..The 2 on the right in the picture is the correct direction)
5. I removed the TB and the right Plenum bracket from the plenum and the engine so there was more room at the back.
6. I removed the wire harness nut holding the wire harness on the right of the engine (this helps when removing the rear valve cover
Problems the 2nd time around
1. Driver wiper did not want to come off. So I had to remove the plastic cowel/arm assembly with arm in one piece (I was able to get my under the cowel to remove the bolt
2. I broke the middle coil pack clip (it just broke apart. I hope it can stay in somehow) Anyone know if I can replace just that one?
Other Tips on removing rear valve cover
The far right bolt can be removed with an extension and a 10mm socket (no problem)
The far left bolt can be removed with a flex socket wrench and an extension
Also I attached a picture how to use the pliers to bend the tabs on the tube seal
The middle two bolts can be removed with the stubby ratchet 10mm
attached are some pictures showing the half moons which I left alone.
In one pic you can see towards the middle I have some sort of carbon build up?? I just scraped it of? Is it carbon or is this considered sludge?
Trending Topics
03-04-18, 05:37 AM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
2nd time around disaster
2nd time around I got all the bolts to bolt up behind the plenum (intake manifold) perfect with some effort.
Tied a string to all the bolts just incase they fell
Installed 14mm bolt first (far left)
Then installed 12mm upper
Then installed 12 mm lower.
But it looks like I will be ripping it all back down again. When I started the car oil came leaking out the back cover. (see pic.. yes that oil)
Either the gasket got twisted at the back corner or I didn't tighten down the valve cover gasket well
Tied a string to all the bolts just incase they fell
Installed 14mm bolt first (far left)
Then installed 12mm upper
Then installed 12 mm lower.
But it looks like I will be ripping it all back down again. When I started the car oil came leaking out the back cover. (see pic.. yes that oil)
Either the gasket got twisted at the back corner or I didn't tighten down the valve cover gasket well
Last edited by TriniLex; 03-04-18 at 05:56 AM.
03-07-18, 03:25 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I also found my problem.. The right side of the rear valve cover is tricky due to the gear and the small space. The gasket falls out EVERYTIME you attempt to place the valve cover. I forgot last time I did this job I placed some gasket maker in the valve cover to hold the gasket in place. Tore it all down again and reassembled.. NO LEAKS!! ;-)
Tear down for the 3rd time (not including windshield wiper cowel and pan, because I already had it out) 45mins
Adding more tips for the rear plenum and bolts on rear of valve cover
Plenum: You have access directly under the car to the 2 lower bolts of the plenum brackets (12mm)
Use a cinder block to get some height so your not climbing in the engine. I am 5' 9" and my back was killing me before using cinder block.
Rear Valve cover bolts facing fire wall.
1st bolt on passenger side (remove or tighten with 10mm small socket with flex head and short extension from above)
2nd bolt moving to driver side (can be tightened with a 10mm small stubby from above)
3rd bolt moving to driver side (can be tightened with 10mm small stubby from above or under the car)
4th bolt moving to driver side (can be tightened with 10mm stubby from above or under the car)
To make things easier make sure to remove the two bolts holding the throttle body bracket (upper and lower). The two bolts holding the driver side plenum (intake manifold)
Label the location of these bolts for easier reinstall. (I had a problem with one of 12mm bolt going back in, but when I realized it was to go in the lower arm it worked perfect)
The 3rd time around I got all bolts back in plenum and throttle body (upper and lower)
The spark plug and coil pack is not hard procedure just time consuming.
The valve cover gasket was the tricky part.
DEALER COST for spark plugs only no seals $350
DEALER COST for Valve cover gasket : $850
DEALER COST for coil packs replacement: ???
01-06-22, 09:49 AM
#13
Thanks for posting the link to my spark plug video.
As for the valve cover gasket, I presume your referring to my 1MZ-FE valve cover gasket video. A lot of people commented that I installed those tube seals upsided down. Logically, they do seem upsided down as they didn't naturally want to seat onto the tubes when installing the cover (I had to do some wiggling and run a screw driver around it to get them on there). However, I did install them in the same direction the old ones were installed in my vehicle, which I presume from how hard and rotten they were, probably the originals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqZXOU0M-04
Maybe I missed it, but it might be worth mentioning your procedure is good for the RX330 with the 3MZ 3.3L and may differ slightly for those with the RX350 3.5L 2GR motor.
As for the valve cover gasket, I presume your referring to my 1MZ-FE valve cover gasket video. A lot of people commented that I installed those tube seals upsided down. Logically, they do seem upsided down as they didn't naturally want to seat onto the tubes when installing the cover (I had to do some wiggling and run a screw driver around it to get them on there). However, I did install them in the same direction the old ones were installed in my vehicle, which I presume from how hard and rotten they were, probably the originals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqZXOU0M-04
Maybe I missed it, but it might be worth mentioning your procedure is good for the RX330 with the 3MZ 3.3L and may differ slightly for those with the RX350 3.5L 2GR motor.
06-22-22, 10:14 AM
#14
Spark plugs and a mystery noise
So, 2005 RX330, has anyone done spark plugs! Is it necessary to remove all that stuff in the Haines Manual? Windshield wipers and motor etc.?
Next, an electrical thang. The radio/ stereo is turned off. Every now and then a VERY loud "ZZZZZZZZTTT" comes over the speakers. It's very loud and scares the crap out of you. Anyone know what it could be? A crossed/worn wire? Could it be in the steering wheel controls? I'm really lost on this one.
TIA
Next, an electrical thang. The radio/ stereo is turned off. Every now and then a VERY loud "ZZZZZZZZTTT" comes over the speakers. It's very loud and scares the crap out of you. Anyone know what it could be? A crossed/worn wire? Could it be in the steering wheel controls? I'm really lost on this one.
TIA
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Mkot9 (06-26-22)
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