scdroptop

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I have a 2005 Rx that has been sitting for a couple of weeks. Battery is dead. I have a 900 CCA industrial jump box that has worked flawlessly for six months and I've used on many vehicles including this one before with no issues/sparks/etc.

Put the positive on, no problem. Put the negative on the battery terminal and WHAM i got a huge spark. Freaked me out! I regained my composure and put it on again more carefully and the Rx's horn went off steadily (not beeping like the alarm) and it still would not start. Battery is two years old, not under warranty.

When I last used the Rx I locked the doors with the remote-I have ran my own crazy independent study over the years with older Lexus vehicles and have ascertained that if you immobilize the security system on a Rx or SC for some reason they keep their charge better. Don't ask me why, I just know from extensive experience with numerous cars! LOL

Back to my story-do you guys think I should re-try with negative cable on a ground on the vehicle like strut mount nut or something INSTEAD of the negative terminal? Do you think my battery is simply toast that's why I'm getting spark and horn? Why would I get the steady horn but no start to the car?

Any guidance on this? Thanks!

NVAKeith

iTrader: (1)

You say you've used the jump box on it previously in the last six months. To me that suggests to me that something is not working right, either the battery is bad or your charging system isn't charging the battery fully. My rule of thumb is to not jump a car unless you know why it needs a jump (the lights were left on). If you jump a car that has a bad battery (such as a bad cell) you are just straining the electrical system as it tries to charge it.

If it were mine, I'd try charging the battery. If it holds a charge then take the car somewhere for a basic battery/charging system test (often free at an auto parts store). If it won't hold a charge then replace the battery (obviously).

As to why it sparked and the horn sounded, maybe the battery is really shot and is shorted internally...If that's the case then hopefully nothing else got fried when you hooked up the jump box.

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

A little more on the couple of times I had to jump it....

First time was about 1.5 months ago when I first got the vehicle. It had clearly been sitting OR someone left the lights on, because just a quick connection and it fired right up.

Second time it took a little longer to turn, so I recognized that wasn't right and drove it religiously for the next few weeks every couple of days and it fired up every time after that, so I thought problem was solved.

Being lazy, I haven't driven or started this one for about two weeks and hence it's dead again.

A good buddy not on this forum SWEARS that you should never, ever connect a jump box to a negative terminal and said I need to hook it up to the top of the strut mount nut first (negative), then positive cable to positive terminal on battery.

Any credence to that?

pauljcl

I was always told to connect the positive terminal first, then the negative to any metal part of the car that is the 'ground' (and that is not in the way of the moving parts of the motor). This said to prevent sparks and increase safety. It is what I have been doing for many years, and, so far, it has worked for me.

Briand_OH

My $0.02:

Connecting to good gnd that is NOT the batty terminal is to minimize chance of explosion (H2 + O2 = H2O + energy). IMO alternators are best for maintaining a batty after starting, not charging a discharged batty. Now if you were going to go on a longish drive....I'd put on a 120V to 12VDC charger and leave it for a period depending upon the ampacity of charger. Even Harbor Frt's $5 charger is better than risking damage to electronics.

SLA do NOT like being left in depleted state; its hard on them. On-board charger is good option. I've also heard about the security system. It would not be real hard to determine current draw with DVM, but I don't know what time period you have to leave Lexus sit before it settles down to true quiescent drain. i'm not volunteering.

scdroptop

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Update: Charged battery all day and it still didn't take. Bought new battery, full power to the car but no cranking. Found two blown fuses. I think I might have done some damage. I replaced the two fuses that were blown. Now what? Full power, all lights on the dash, doors lock/unlock lights come on but no radio, no shift lock, etc. Help!

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

Any suggestions as to which relays or big block fuses to check? Not familiar with checking these at all. The little ones are hard enough to get out, I can't imagine "easily" checking those big boys. I must have blown something with the big spark.

scdroptop

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Small update...found one more fuse blown (thought third one would be a charm) but to no avail, I have power but no crank. Headlights work, locks work, security system engages, moonroof works. What doesn't work is SHIFT lock, heated seats, a/c or vents, stereo or rear door. I checked fuses on driver's kick panel and none of those were out. I cannot get to or pull out the three big blue ones next to them. I checked the windows of all the big fuses under the hood and they all looked good, connected. Haven't looked at the relays on the p/s under the hood, or those other three blue big ones under the dash. Any other suggestions? I disconnected battery again, and reconnected it. Nothing.

HtownBlue

Check the fuses under the dash. The. Check all the fuses under the hood. Your starter fuse is a 60 amp fuse I think. Look at all the big fuses and make sure they are not busted. My guess is you blew some fuses or accidentally connected the negative to the positive by mistake.

neelnaik

What exactly is it doing when you turn the key to start? Does it just click or does it try to start but not turn over?

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

HtownBlue-I checked all the fuses under the dash and hood. Took every one out. I even double and triple checked. I did find another that was busted in that process (hair line crack) but from what I can tell they all are good. I DEFINITELY think I blew a fuse that is permitting from starting...just can't figure out which one!

neelnaik- When I turn the key, nothing happens. Don't really hear any fuel pump or any engagement of the starter whatsoever. No HVAC, no radio, no rear door, but the alarm works, windows, all dash lights come on, all interior lights, even the headlights and fog lights. Seats move too.

Talked to service advisor at Lexus yesterday (I love Sewell) and they said it's possible I blew the "main fuse" which is under the fuse box under the hood's smaller fuse box. I don't see how that's possible considering everything else works, but I guess perhaps that runs all the major stuff like HVAC, stereo, rear hatch and starter.

scdroptop

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Looking at "main fuse" right now. Spoke to technician at dealer and they said 99% of the time you blow the main fuse on Rx330's when you cross polarity. Expensive lesson learned. (sigh)

neelnaik

Interesting. That's rather strange.

I have heard a lot of good things about Sewell, not to mention the Club Lexus parts discount. If I lived closer to Dallas then I did to Tulsa or Oklahoma City even, then they would probably be my dealer of choice.

I didn't know that the RX had a main fuse. Be glad it's there, as on other cars, when you short the battery, you can end up with some major electrical system damage.

scdroptop

iTrader: (1)

Update: First of all thanks to all of you who read this and responded! Yes, Sewell is amazing. Nordstrom of car dealerships.

It was the 140a alternator fuse able link that was blown. $192 later, voila. Like new again! Lesson learned. Expensive one too. It was an hour and a half shop labor to get to it. Had to take off the brake master cylinder and the fuse box neither which would I have felt comfortable doing.

kickin8

iTrader: (1)

ouch....but glad you got it sorted out....