JoeInHNL

I replaced Bank 1 Sensor 1 on my RX330 at 72K and it needed replacement again at 81K (a little over 2 years later). I confirmed the sensor was not responding correctly using the procedure found here:

http://www.underhoodservice.com/trou...nd-o2-sensors/

and quoted here:

"On aftermarket scan tools that lack this test function, you can use the following procedure to test the A/F sensors:

• Idle the engine for 30 seconds, then raise the engine speed to 2,500 rpm and hold steady. Watch the voltage reading for the sensor. If the sensor is working normally, you should see a reading of around 0.66 volts (if the signal is converted to OBD II generic), or 3.1 to 3.5 volts if you are reading the voltage signal generated by the PCM for the A/F sensor(s).

• Next, rev the engine to 4,000 rpm and release the throttle so the engine returns quickly to idle. This will cause a momentary leaning of the fuel mixture as the fuel cuts off during engine decel. The air/fuel sensors should respond by showing a momentary jump in voltage to 3.8 volts (direct reading) or 0.76 volts (OBD II generic).

If the voltage output remains flat at 3.3 volts (direct reading) or 0.66 volts (generic OBD II reading), and the reading does not change with engine speed or throttle position, the air/fuel sensor may have an internal open circuit, or its heater circuit may be open. "


Both times I used a Denso replacement AF sensor. The new one only has 2K on it now. Time will tell if the first replacement was defective or something else is causing the sensor to fail.

dmanwi

Thank you for your response. At least I know it could be that O2 sensor again. I am going to wait until the weather warms up before I replace the sensor. I also just purchased an OBD scan tool so I can read and clear codes.

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices New

5gears-IS

iTrader: (5)

Forgot to report back as I had this done before our winter season. Replaced the OEM with a Denso from ebay, so far so good.

dmanwi

I tackled my B1S1 this weekend. It took me 4 hours maybe of off/on working on it, but I had not done and O2 sensor before. Its been years since I changed the oil in cars but I have done spark plugs, audio units, also fixed fans, sliding doors and a few odds and ends. I was getting the CEL and a code 2195.

I ordered the sensor from Amazon for $101 - P/N 234-9042.

I put the vehicle on jack stands first. I removed the two plastic shields. On the smaller shield on the back I ended up snapping two of the screws. I have yet to get the old ones removed from the underbody, maybe another day. When I put the shield back on I just used some zip-ties for now to keep it secure.

I was able to get the cord unplugged with one hand and that wasn't too bad. I was surprised how difficult it was to get my hand up to the sensor. There was only one way to snake my hand up there. I could use my left or right hand depending on how I lay my body. My neighbor had a regular sensor puller and I tried using that but it was too tall to fit in the space so I ran to Autozone to buy one of the pullers listed earlier in the thread.

It still wasn't coming loose so I let the PB Blaster set overnight and put on some more in the morning and then had another go and it came off after a few more tries. The P/N on the old sensor was 894670E020. They looked similar but the new one had a little "nubbin" halfway up the wire used to attach the wire to something? The old one didn't. Also does anyone know if the color of the sticker on the wire means anything? The new one was brown and I found a sticker on the ground afterwards which I think was from the old one and it was purple.

I used the anti-seize provided but didn't use a ton of it as I didn't want to get it on the sensor itself and I was concerned I wouldn't get it cleanly/quickly into its socket since I was just doing it by feel. Everything went back on quickly afterwards and the CEL has stayed off. I was a little freaked out by the smoke as the PB Blaster/anti-seize burned off when I first started the car.

While I was working on the car I also started replacing the McGuard locks on my wheels. I was able to get two of them off but the other two are not coming off and I think I started to strip the key a bit. Any suggestions? If not I may order a new key and just wait until the next rotation and have them replaced then.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice on this forum. Without it I would never have attempted this on my own.

Dan

JoeInHNL

The plastic "nubbin" is used if you replace the Bank 2 (front) sensor. It is not used for Bank 1.