This is one of my coil packs pulled out of my 2001 Lexus RX300. There is oil around it and I'm wondering what this orange stuff is on it? I bought this car with 160,000 miles on it there was a bad oil leak and so I had a mechanic replaced the valve gasket and spark plugs. 8 months later I am driving it and loses power almost dies and check engine light comes on blinking same with with Vsc light. Someone replaced the parts of the muffler on it before I bought it and did a crap job. I don't believe they put a plans in. It has the old catalytic converter on it. It sounded a lot louder since it was misfiring. The codes were coming back bank 3 and 5 misfire. Occasionally when it would rain extremely hard I would start it the next day to have it blow white smoke out of the tailpipe which would completely disappear after it did its thing. A friend of mine brought over a experienced mechanic who worked on side jobs. He took this coil pack off and found oil on the outside of the coil bottom part and also there was oil in the spark plug. He suggested getting a new gasket set and replacing the spark plugs and going from there. He thought possibly whoever did the work must have not sealed the circle gaskets around the spark plugs which could be how the oil leaked or could be a bad coil. I'm just curious what this Orange stuff is on this coil pack. If the gentleman who did my valve cover gasket put it on there because he messed up or if you think it was on there before I bought the vehicle. I assume you have to take the coils off before you can get to the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets so he probably did it. The young man was going to help me out but ended up having to go somewhere for a bit of time and I was left to my own devices. Let's just say it cost an arm and a leg so I am going to try to attempt it myself with the help of someone who has some knowledge of cars and the detailed instructions on this wonderful site. I got the right spark plugs and a new gasket with the spark plug gaskets. I also got two coil packs. This friend of mine is a parts manager to help me get the spark plugs and a gasket and they only had two coil packs in stock. I am a woman but I feel like I'm intelligent enough, I can follow directions and I'm very good at puzzles even though cars are not puzzle, I have to try. I am familiar with cars even though I'm not working on but watched many people work on them. I was just wanting some opinions on the orange stuff they put around the coil pack and why? What is it. Thank you

 

The description is a bit confusing. "bank 3 and 5 misfire" doesn't mean anything as there is only a bank 1 and 2.
The vapor on startup may be nothing since it passes when the car is warm.
Don't know what "I don't believe they put a plans in." means

If there is oil in the spark plug tube the coil tube seal may not have been installed right. The orange stuff just looks like some grease, I doubt it hurt anything, don't know for sure why it's there. Maybe the installer used it to ease inserting/removing the coils, it's not really necessary.

So far it's not apparent that you need any new parts (other than possibly the gasket sets).

What are the codes you are getting?

 

I apologize I thought I proof read. I did mess up on the codes. All he wrote down was cylinder number 3 and 4 misfire and random multiple misfires. Then he came over and took out one of the coils which had oil all over it. He unscrewed one spark plugs that had oil in it. The original guy did the gasket and the plugs 8 months ago. He was wondering if you messed up.

 

Cylinders 3 and 4 are on different banks.



Bank 2 is towards front of car, bank 1 is towards the rear.
Obviously bank 2 is a lot easier to work on. Which bank did he find oil on the plug and coil?

You might want to consider buying a code reader so you can read and clear codes yourself. Very often one would clear the codes and see what code comes first.
Also could go to your local Advance Auto or similar where they will read your codes for free.

 

I thought it was 5 in the middle in the front maybe it was the one to the left of that.I don't know. I'm sorry I know this has got to be frustrating, when I don't know what I'm talking about. I can't really get a hold of him either.

The piece of paper he gave me has cylinder #3, #4 misfire for codes he did not write the number down. Then he also has random multiple misfire. Need to check plugs and coils which he did. So it was one of the ones in the front the coil had oil on it and the spark plugs had oil on them. I have 6 brand new spark plugs, brand new gasket set and two coils. The reason why I don't have six is because they could only get a hold of two. They only had two in stock.

It hasn't leaked any oil since the guy that did the job before it broke down. One gentleman I talked to said you have to be really careful threading the spark plugs correctly. I think it's the round gaskets. I think the guy who did the work didn't steal the gaskets properly and it leaked oil into the spark plug. I don't know how oil gets on the bottom piece of the coil. At least he said there shouldn't be oil there but I could have misunderstood him.

The guy who originally fixed the valve gasket for the leak and replaced spark plugs is the one I think messed up. We called him about it and he said oh it sounds like your coils are going bad. Well I'm not stupid.

I do not have a lot of tools or space to diagnose down the specific problem. I'll will just change the valve cover and the spark plugs again. Before that I can always start it and move the coils around to see if one's working in one spot and one's not. I've got the instructions step by step with the tools to use from online.

It just doesn't make any sense why he would put that orange stuff around the top of the coil. I think I've literally driven it 4,000 miles since I've had it. I put new tires on it and did the valve gasket and spark plugs. It has 166,000 mi on it I only paid for 3,900 for it. I have no problem working on it whatsoever, I have bren staying at a hotel for about 6 months looking for a place to stay and it's been a little stressful with my car broke down.

I appreciate your patience and your help.

 

It literally almost dies when I drive it. I didn't know if it was safe for the engine if I did that. It said online that if the lights blinking that I shouldn't drive it. Otherwise I probably would have gone to advance Auto and I think I could probably get a code reader online.

 

The orange stuff is silicone, your vehicle has a leak from the spark plug tube seals which are in the valve covers. The coil seals do not stop oil from getting on the s/plugs, it's only a dust/dirt seal.
The valve covers have to come off to replace the seals and this may not be a DIY for you.

 

You've got the right idea with "Before that I can always start it and move the coils around to see if one's working in one spot and one's not."

It sounds like you have limited space, tools, and funds. I wouldn't just start buying parts except maybe one extra coil. Coils are expensive, and there is no reason to replace working ones. You just replaced the spark plugs 8 months ago but we don't know what kind were used. The advice here is to use the OEM Denso or NGK plugs, and OEM Denso coils. Regardless whatever you've got was fine for 8 months and I've never had 2 coils go at once.

Get a code reader, you need it to work on this. You can get a Torque OBD2 adapter that connects to an Android phone or Iphone. I use BlueDriver but Torque readers are cheaper. .

If you believe oil fouling is the cause, pull out one coil and plug at a time, note the condition, note the part numbers, clean them, put them back
Clear the codes and start the engine.
Note the first misfire - say it's #4. Swap coils 2 & 4, clear the codes, start again.
If the problem moves replace the coil you moved to #2. Clear codes and repeat.

This is relatively easy and cheap. If your problems get resolved, great.
If there was fouling in a few months check your notes of which coils & plugs were fouled and recheck them to see if they are fouled again.
If the fouling is in the front bank that valve cover is easy to work on. Rear bank is a lot harder.

Here is the sticky DIY for spark plug change:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-patience.html

 

+1 Smashing the like button for maxsteel.

Can I plz add, I recommend when anyone pulls the coils for inspection to check the coil for hairline cracks.
This happened to me and was causing misfire.

So while the coils are out, a thorough inspection "while you're in there".
Also, if white powder is observed on the rubber tip this is carbon tracking IMO and also causes misfires and coil is junked since cleaning it doesn't help- the powder may run thru the rubber in my exeperience, cleaning didn't help me.

Both of these have happened to me- hair line crack and carbon tracking.
Cheers!

 

I just want to say thank you so much everybody for all your help. I got the parts for free from a friend of my mom. She's a parts manager and they are denso spark plugs. I do not know about the coils. I will have to look.

I really appreciate it.

 

Can someonr help me find a list of specialty tools I need to do this job. What size torque wrench and what size ratchet attachments. The other side of the extensions. I thought I found it on this forum but I think it's for a hybrid which I don't have. I have a 2001 Lexus RX300 6 cylinder all wheel drive. I went to get 3 and 6-in extensions and they didn't know what size I was talking about. Thank you for your time.

I understand this can be a difficult job but I already paid $1,300 to have it done and obviously they didn't do it correctly. I figured I would give it a try with someone I know that worked on cars before. Just curious what a decent price is to have it
professionally done if I have the parts already. It might be the valve cover gaskets. It might be valve cover gaskets and spark plugs.

 

Can someonr help me find a list of specialty tools I need to do this job. What size torque wrench and what size ratchet attachments. The other side of the extensions. I thought I found it on this forum but I think it's for a hybrid which I don't have. I have a 2001 Lexus RX300 6 cylinder all wheel drive. I went to get 3 and 6-in extensions and they didn't know what size I was talking about. Thank you for your time.

I understand this can be a difficult job but I already paid $1,300 to have it done and obviously they didn't do it correctly. I figured I would give it a try with someone I know that worked on cars before. Just curious what a decent price is to have it
professionally done if I have the parts already. It might be the valve cover gaskets. It might be valve cover gaskets and spark plugs.

 

It depends on what you are trying to do. If just doing the cleaning and swapping of plugs and coils the DIY will help https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-patience.html

You don't need much. Start with the front plugs to see what tools you need. The rear ones are exactly the same, just a lot more annoying.

You should have a basic ratchet set with 3/8" and 1/4" drive ratchets and metric/SAE sockets. At bare minimum get a 3/8" drive metric set. If the kit doesn't have extensions you can buy a kit like https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-4...Set/1000595973 (for 3/8" drive).
You'll need a deep socket for the plug. Personally I would use a spark plug socket instead of the magnet thing mentioned in the DIY. When using it for installation only push the plug into it just enough for the rubber to grip the spark plug tip or it may not disengage when you are pulling the socket back out. If that happens you have to unscrew the socket, remove everything, pull the plug out of the socket, and try again.
Get some metric wrenches, at minimum (as per the DIY) you will need 10mm and 12 mm wrenches.
You don't always know what combinations of tools you will need, so more options is better

I don't think anyone uses a torque wrench on spark plugs. You sure wont get one on the rear plugs if you are doing them with the intake still on. You are working by feel for some of it too.
Just screw the plug in finger tight until it is seated and then tighten about 1/4 turn with the ratchet.
For the coils just snug down the bolt and tighten it a bit, you don't have to whale on it, it's not going anywhere.

 

Thank you for taking the time to clarify that for me. I really appreciate it. I'm kind of under the impression that I may need to change the gasket and the spark plug o-rings. That's the only reason I would need a torquing wrench. Like I said I paid $1,300 to have the gasket replaced which stopped the oil leak. I also paid to have the spark plugs replaced then 8 months later I have check engine lights on in the car is stalling. Pulled a coil and a spark plug and discovered oil on the spark plug. Along with the orange stuff around the top of the coil. Maybe he did not do the gasket right or maybe he didn't replace the o rings or maybe I have a hairline crack in one of the coils. Either way I can't imagine messing it up any more than he did for $200.
I'm not a mechanic but I can follow directions and I'm an artist. I will have help also. I have the parts. Do you think it would be better just to have somebody else do it or should I give it a try. I'm getting quotes for $600 just to do the spark plugs. Do you have any idea what a good estimate of having the repair done if I have the gasket spark plugs and coils already.?

I understand you're not liable if you tell me to try to get a bit to try 😁

 

If you or any one is serious about DIY and doing it right, they need to invest in the service manual or subscribe to TIS.

Most of the stuff related to top half of the engine needs the range of 7-40 lb-ft of torque. Best would be to have an in-lb and low lb-ft [two different toque wrenches].

There is no space to get valve cover bolts with torque wrench. Box wrench or open end wrench are the only way to get to some bolts. I kind of get a feel for the torque on the accessible side and use that to tighten the remaining with the wrench.

Salim