Here's my previous question was is there a fuel pump reset switch and someone come back and said something about a sensor and it's in the trunk. Well I need I need to know exactly where that sensor is because I told my trunk apart I cannot find it anywhere

 

There is nothing in my Gen 1 Lexus manual about a fuel pump reset switch. Which year and model do you have?

 

What problem are you trying to solve?

I'm not aware of any such reset switch. There is a fuel level sensor built into the fuel pump but it's not a reset. There is a dealer tool that can be used to activate the fuel pump for testing.
The fuel pump can be accessed through the floor service hole cover under the left hand rear seat carpet.

For service information google for "RX300 electronic fuel injection pdf"

 

For safety reasons the fuel pump can be deactivated by the ecu. Get the circuit diagram and trace the control section. Usually the pump motor fails after time in service, specially when the fuel was kept low in the tank. Pump gets cooled by the gas it sits in.

Also we or at least I am not aware of your earlier post.

Salim

 

99 model. The issues I'm having sounds like an ecu. Or ecm is going bad from the systems. But then, roughly 8 months ago, I turned my Rx off an the next time I tried to crank it. It would not turn over at all. So a friend took the tumbler set out an stuck a pair of needle nose pliers in an I've been cranking it like so ever since. An bout a month ago, my car ran fine one day an the next day, nothing. In fact my car Windows started rolling up n down by themselves. The engine will turn over but no start. I've replaced sensors, fuel pump. I can't find a fuel pump relay. An was wondering if there's a fuel pump reset button somewhere?

 

A fuel reset switch is a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury design, Toyota/Lexus doesn't use one that I know of.

 

Aight..... Thanks for the information. I'll keep y'all posted as to what I figure out in day's to come

 

If you have been using needle nose pliers to turn the ignition cylinder how have you disabled the immobilizer? Is the security light off when you are cranking?

 

imho, you are chasing hunches.

Please diagnose logically
Spark -> See if the #2 easiest is sparking regularly [will eliminate imobilizer]
Fuel -> Hold the gas pedal 1/2 way down and have some one smell gas at the exhaust. Then work your way to the fuel line if no gas
Also try started fluid in the intake ... intent is to hear he engine fire and not necessarily run.
Timing --> usually takes a bit to confirm, but you may have to open up the t-belt cover or partial cover to see if the belt is at least spinning.

ECU is pretty reliable. Check the wires and hoses, specially if the vehicle has been sitting exposed to elements and critters.

Salim

 

Ok.thanks for the into. But yes, I've changed the fuel pump out. An it's engaging, after I turn the key on. But my vehicle is not cranking. That the issue I'm having. After I replaced the fuel pump, should I fill the tank up more than an ⅛ or a ¼ of a tank?

 

You earlier wrote: "The engine will turn over but no start."
Now you wrote: "But my vehicle is not cranking"

Which is it?

 

The fuel pump builds the pressure in the line and the controller cuts it off [non-accident situation]. The pump does not run continuously. In an accident the ECU gathers the information that the engine is not running and it should cut off the fuel pump [this prevents feeding the fire situation]. To eliminate lack of fuel in tank, just enough to NOT lit up low fuel 1/8 should work too.If you installed a new pump, you may like to safely check fuel coming to the engine block. But chase this only if your problem is with the fuel.

Engine not turning/cranking is a battery, starter, ignition switch, solenoid, PRND and brake-pedal
Engine not catching is fuel, spark[including imbolizer], timing air, clogged exhaust

Once again organize the issue(s) and work each item as I summarized in my other post below.

Salim
PS: "Cranking/turning"[starter motor spinning the engine], "Catching" [sustain or hesitant internal combustion engine working] are not interchangeable words.

 

[QUOTE=maxSteel;11264375]If you have been using needle nose pliers to turn the ignition cylinder how have you disabled the immobilizer? Is the security light off when you are cranking?[/QUOTE
yes, the security light goes off when cranking.

 

W Well to me it's the same difference. My engine turn over but doesn't fire up. Which I guess is what yall call, cranks but no start. One day it ran fine, the next day nothing. The next day when I got in it to crank it up. The windows rolled down by themselves, I was able to get the drivers side window back up. Now prior to all this, my transmission shifts irregulaly at times, an it's done some other common issues that I can't remember right now. My car has been setting up almost 6 months now. But a master mechanic I know looked at it an said by all the issues it sounds like to him like the ecu is going bad. It was blowing a certain fuse located in the fuse box under the hood. Every time I would turn the ignition on it would blow a certain fuse.... I trouble shooted the problem an realized I had a short on one of my o2 sensors. I repaired that an then my fuel pump went out so I replaced that. But I'll look into the thread from earlier an see if I can narrow it down from there. If I had realized this website existed sooner, I wouldn't sound so confusing trying to explain what's going on.

 

holding down the unlock button on remote will roll all windows down ... which can happen when you are twisting the key in ignition.

i would suggest,
Confirm regular spark on plug #2. I yes take the next step.
Get a can of starting fluid and couple of squirts down the air cleaner. If it sputters check the fuel delivery.

Salim

PS: What makes this forum great are the members who try their best to help.