fastnoypi

Planning to DIY on the timing belt soon. Can anyone recommend a good timing belt kit they have installed? I prefer inclusive with an Aisin water pump, Mitsuboshi belt and Koyo idlers. Also, what is your experience with Bando PS and AC belts?

salimshah

What you mention are the OEM suppliers. Depending on how many miles and previous change, I would suggest replacing the front main seal and cam seals [I did the water pump + seals on 210K]. The seal next to the firewall had to be discarded as I set it in crooked.

Had good experience with AirCabinman. You can get Toyota/Lexus boxed items but they will cost you more.

Salim

fastnoypi

Didn't know AirCabinman is still around and now selling other components. I bought a 6 pack of cabin filters way back for my yearly routine. A good vendor. I'll have to inspect my seals when i get in there, Lexus did not change them out last time and specified that they usually don't change them out unless there are signs of leakage.

@Salim did you go with a Toyota boxed or OEM supplier boxed timing kit from AirCabinman. I see in his store he has both. I'm familiar and have experience with most of the suppliers in the kits except Bando.

Lexmus

I installed this Aisin kit purchased from Amazon

fastnoypi

alot of good reviews but it has alot of variables according to the description. With my luck, I might get a Gates belt instead of Mitsuboshi or unknown Korean OE parts instead of Koyo or NTN. The only thing consistent in the kit descriptionis the Aisin timing belt.

salimshah

Aisin is the water-pump maker. I think folks call the kit as Aisin kit as long as the water-pump is from them. The again some of the pumps come with metal gasket.

I have used Toyota kit for one vehicle and for the others I have used OE parts. Was the extra money worth it for the red/white box? No opinion on that.

The Accessory belt is something I would not gamble on, just because I am obsessed with specs. There is a tension speced for the new belt and after use [which I think would not apply for NON-OEM]. Lot of folks dont care about it, so for them any belt would work. Alternator tensioner is pain [till you learn how to do it with the right tools], but unlike Timing belt, there is no substantial work sunk in, so go with any brand you like.

Just my personal experience (very limited as I have not given other products a chance) ... I have never had a problem with quality, fit from any part that I have bought from Lexus parts store. Only one poor experience with buying the parts from internet ,, where the supplier shipped only the parts they had (partial fulfillment) and then I had to order from another vendor (two shipping charges made it slightly worse for me). Readers be aware and read the vendor policy.

Salim

fastnoypi

Removal of a plastic rivet which secures an air deflector on the side of the passenger side headlamp ..makes access to the adjuster bolt a breeze with just a long extension and socket.. Some will argue the pivot lock bolt is more of a pain just due to the space.

I am likely to go again with Toyota OE belts, I have read too many stories (taken with a grain of salt) about endless squeaking and groove tracking problems..especially with Dayco and Goodyear branded AC/power steering belts for the RX300 application.

thomas1

I have installed three of the Aisin kits with mitsoboshi belt and been very happy. Koyo bearings or NTN are fine. One on a V8 Toyota Sequoia, one on 2 on Lexus RX400h. No problems and very high quality.

fastnoypi

thanks for the feedback. what brand PS and Alt belts did you use on your installs? Are they OEM quiet?

thomas1

I always found using OEM on the Power steering and Alternator belt to be best. My RX400h doesn't have those belts....

fastnoypi

Decided on and picked up the Aisan timing belt kit and OEM PS/Alt belts. I may do the replacement this weekend if the weather stays relatively cooler and less humid unlike last week. For those who have done the DIY, do you need to remove the cam gears and rear plastic shield to slide off/on the water pump? I do not anticipate to replace the cam seals if they are not leaking.

salimshah

If you are at 90k service [1st time around], I would skip the cam seals if they are not leaking, but if it is 200k then do give it a serious consideration. Cam seals in 1st gen are easy. The only issue if any is the clear line of sight at the back cam. Use your camera or mirror to ensure even seating .. that is if you decide to change them.

You will need the stud extractor as the torx head is useless after the heat cycle of the engine. The studs need to be removed to pull out the water pump.

Also get the tool or construct one to hold the pulley to break the bolt. I would also suggest to borrow/buy the high torque wrench. I rely on proper torques and only use thread sealer where it is specified. You will need the blue thread lock for the tensioner roller.

Salim

fastnoypi

to my original question, does the rear plastic cover behind the cam gears need to be removed to slide on/off the water pump? Its often addressed as a possible thing in the way.

i'm aware of the studs and have seen both success with leaving them in and jacking the engine or removing them to remove the water pump. Is there enough remaining thread exposed to thread on a jam nut to perform the double nut method of backing out the studs?

thomas1

There are so many videos on the internet.....heres one that is decent.

salimshah

I listed the problems I faced. Every thing is intuitive. If you are an avid DIYer, you will be able to figure it out as you go. Good luck.

Salim