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If you search, you will find I post I made many years ago about the B1S1 connector. I asserted that the most difficult part of replacing the Bank 1 sensor was disconnecting the connector. I don’t think there are any tricks to make it easy...just make sure you are pressing or pulling the tab in the right direction. It is a job that requires 3 hands and you don’t have enough room for 2.
I guess I'll try again when I buy new sensor.
I was just trying to see if old sensor is good or not but from the symptoms, it doesn't look like it's good.
Here are stft, ltft from the app: do these point to anything specific?
Only P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control.
Big thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini for the thread and pictures.
My 2000 RX300 has exactly the same black and clear wires for knock sensors 2 and 1.
Very easy to take the black panel under the glove box and the glove box.
The air bag cables also snap out easily.
I was at the ECU in few minutes.
Hard part was to untangle/unwrap the two wires needed as they were twisted in the middle so had to carefully move other wires so I could get enough slack.
Also, I didn't use crimp connector. I soldered the two wires instead as I feel more comfortable with soldering iron.
I just cut the black wire and stripped little bit to expose the tip.
Then I spliced the insulation of clear wire without cutting it to expose the wire.
I heated the tip of the black wire and the exposed part of clear wire and sipped in some lead.
Checked after it cooled and can't even pull on it so the join should be good.
Wrapped it with electrical tape and called it good.
Done deal.
Cleared the codes and drove around.
Now it shifts to OD and RPM at 55mph is only around 2100 instead of 4000+ before.
I only drove around 10 miles but the only code I have now is P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. What's that about?
Also, at idle, I feel vibrations like it's revving up every 10 seconds or so but rpm doesn't change.
No. P 1150 & 1155 are both for Bank 2 AF sensor. Most likely cause of lean code too. Pending P0300 can be caused by many things. For about the millionth time, start by replacing your obviously bad AF sensor with a Denso purchased from a reputable supplier.
No. P 1150 & 1155 are both for Bank 2 AF sensor. Most likely cause of lean code too. Pending P0300 can be caused by many things. For about the millionth time, start by replacing your obviously bad AF sensor with a Denso purchased from a reputable supplier.
Have the sensor in cart.
BTW, is the oxygen sensor socket really needed?
I can see the nut from the top easily so shouldn't a regular wrench work for this one?
I'll add that if it really makes it much easier.
By regular do you mean open end? Open end will likely just round it off. You need a good long handle 22mm box wrench or 6 point socket with breaker bar. You can use these if you just cut off the connector which is ok since sensor is not working. You can also rent for free the special sensor socket except if you get a cheap one the sides will flex and round it off. You can fix this by banding it with a clamp. Warm the engine just a little, get a good firm grip and pull hard with a quick jerk. You may get lucky. I had one round off on me and I had to remove the exhaust manifold and remove the sensor in tiny pieces then restore the threads...a royal PITA.
By regular do you mean open end? Open end will likely just round it off. You need a good long handle 22mm box wrench or 6 point socket with breaker bar. You can use these if you just cut off the connector which is ok since sensor is not working. You can also rent for free the special sensor socket except if you get a cheap one the sides will flex and round it off. You can fix this by banding it with a clamp. Warm the engine just a little, get a good firm grip and pull hard with a quick jerk. You may get lucky. I had one round off on me and I had to remove the exhaust manifold and remove the sensor in tiny pieces then restore the threads...a royal PITA.
Yes, I have a set of open wrenches.
I saw a video where a guy put box wrench through the connector but that was for Rav4 or something.
I don't think rx300 connector will go through a 22mm box wrench opening.
I'll order an oxygen socket or get one from local store as a loaner.
thanks
Yes, I have a set of open wrenches.
I saw a video where a guy put box wrench through the connector but that was for Rav4 or something.
I don't think rx300 connector will go through a 22mm box wrench opening.
I'll order an oxygen socket or get one from local store as a loaner.
thanks
Read my post. I said you can just cut off the connector because the sensor is shot. Then you use a 22 mm box wrench or deep 6 point socket with breaker bar. Do not use an open end wrench.
What's the torque spec for the A/F sensor?
I'm buying a torque wrench but can't decide between 10-75 or 20-250?
Also, what size is better for this use? 1/2" or 3/8"?
What's the torque spec for the A/F sensor?
I'm buying a torque wrench but can't decide between 10-75 or 20-250?
Also, what size is better for this use? 1/2" or 3/8"?
If you are serious DIYer , you need 3 torque wrenches
Best suggestion:
in-lb range -> for vale cover/sensors etc. ... 1/4" drive
20lb-ft : 70lb-ft --> medium range [90% of work] ... 3/8" drive
40lb-ft : 150lb-ft -> suspension/main pulley ... 1/2" drive
Sorry did not answer your question though.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 07-17-18 at 12:31 PM.
Reason: fixed my error ... 1/2" for big jobs.
If you are serious DIYer , you need 3 torque wrenches
Best suggestion:
in-lb range -> for vale cover/sensors etc. ... 1/4" drive
20lb-ft : 70lb-ft --> medium range [90% of work] ... 1/2" drive
40lb-ft : 150lb-ft -> suspension/main pulley ... 3/8" drive
Sorry did not answer your question though.
Salim
Never going to be serious car repair guy.
Just the easy stuffs.
I rather get rid of car than spend days working on them.
Buy the Harbor Freight 1/2" click torque wrench. Can be had for as little as $9.99, often at $11.99 with coupon. It's range is 20-150 ft-lb and mine appears to be accurate based on comparing to a neighbor's $150 split beam torque wrench. Just make sure you dial back the torque setting to the minimum value after you use it.
Buy the Harbor Freight 1/2" click torque wrench. Can be had for as little as $9.99, often at $11.99 with coupon. It's range is 20-150 ft-lb and mine appears to be accurate based on comparing to a neighbor's $150 split beam torque wrench. Just make sure you dial back the torque setting to the minimum value after you use it.
I bought a 1/2" Craftsman 20-150 from Sears.
HF is cheaper but I had lots of points in my account so price is not that different.
06-25-18, 04:07 PM
Only P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control.
