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I have a friend who has 1999 RX300.
He visited me today and I tested his MAF with multimeter.
He just replaced it few months ago so it's brand new.
Same results. The right two connections show 1 resistance and left two show around 1200.
Mine also shows 1 on right two and around 1800 on left two. So Lexus IAT resistance test instruction is messed up.
It's incorrect.
That means my MAF is okay. Problem is something else.
Not the only time this has happened. Years ago I bought a new IACV for my 99 RX only to discover the electrical troubleshooting info in the FSM was totally incorrect. I called Lexus. Ended up talking with a Regional Technical Manager who, after doing his own independent research, admitted the error and Lexus reimbursed me for the new IACV. I doubt if they ever issued a revision to the FSM. IIRC, I was reimbursed around $225 and that was a long time ago.
Good move on comparing to a known good part. When you get your scanner, clear codes and see what reappears first. We can go from there. Fuel trims will tell us about potential vacuum leak but I am thinking you have a bad AF sensor and perhaps something going on with knock sensor.
Not the only time this has happened. Years ago I bought a new IACV for my 99 RX only to discover the electrical troubleshooting info in the FSM was totally incorrect. I called Lexus. Ended up talking with a Regional Technical Manager who, after doing his own independent research, admitted the error and Lexus reimbursed me for the new IACV. I doubt if they ever issued a revision to the FSM. IIRC, I was reimbursed around $225 and that was a long time ago.
Good move on comparing to a known good part. When you get your scanner, clear codes and see what reappears first. We can go from there. Fuel trims will tell us about potential vacuum leak but I am thinking you have a bad AF sensor and perhaps something going on with knock sensor.
The repair manual I'm reading covers 1999 RX300 and ES300.
In the IAT sensor resistance section it has two different pictures, one for ES300, the other RX300.
In the ES300 picture the E2 and THA pins are the left two.
In the RX300 picture the E2 and THA pins are the right two.
But the denso web site shows the same part number for both cars. One of those pictures is wrong. I never noticed the difference.
He's not very close so can't swap.
He replaced timing belt/pump, MAF, belt etc... few months ago and I noticed that the MAF is not the same part number as mine.
Mine is: TOYOTA
22204 - 21010
197400 - 2000 DENSO
MADE IN JAPAN
His replacement is different part number and doesn't say "MADE IN JAPAN": TOYOTA
22204 - 07010
TN197400 - 2040 DENSO
I searched online and that part is for Camry.
Does that mean, any compatible Toyota Denso MAF work with same year RX300?
That'll be a lot economical.
The Camrys from around that time have the same V6 engine (1MZFE) as the RX300. However, the Denso parts site says 197-6020 for the RX300, 197-6030 for the V6 Camry. I put a new 197-6020 in my RX300 to fix a P0171.
Plugged in and reset codes using torque lite.
drove around 5 miles and first code is P0125 (coolant temp circuit something).
after around 8 miles, P0330 knock sensor 2 popped up.
No other codes yet.Doesn't shift to od. Rpm is 4 at 50 mph.
What do you guys think?
Plugged in and reset codes using torque lite.
drove around 5 miles and first code is P0125 (coolant temp circuit something).
after around 8 miles, P0330 knock sensor 2 popped up.
No other codes yet.Doesn't shift to od. Rpm is 4 at 50 mph.
What do you guys think?
i would say the p0125 indicates engine can not go into closed loop operation because of a problem with #2 knock sensor and/or #2 knock sensor wiring harness.
Your AF sensor code will soon appear. Very possible that p0125 is associated with the AF sensor instead of the knock sensor. I’m betting you have both problems.
i would say the p0125 indicates engine can not go into closed loop operation because of a problem with #2 knock sensor and/or #2 knock sensor wiring harness.
Your AF sensor code will soon appear. Very possible that p0125 is associated with the AF sensor instead of the knock sensor. I’m betting you have both problems.
I reset codes and drove few times.
I've yet to see P0171 in any app.
I then used a different app (OBD Car Doctor) and it showed few more codes but no p0125.
It has P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit, P1150 as trouble codes and P1155 as pending codes. What's pending???
I think the P1150 and P1155 popped up when I drove in highway pushing the gas pedal.
I reset codes and drove few times.
I've yet to see P0171 in any app.
I then used a different app (OBD Car Doctor) and it showed few more codes but no p0125.
It has P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit, P1150 as trouble codes and P1155 as pending codes. What's pending???
I think the P1150 and P1155 popped up when I drove in highway pushing the gas pedal.
As suggested very early in this thread, your Bank 2 AF sensor is toast. The 0155 refers to its heater circuit. 1150\1155 are most likely causing the 0171 and 0125 companion codes. I would start by replacing your AF sensor...Bank 2 is easy. Use a Denso from Rockauto. You will almost certainly have to replace your knock sensor too. Replace both while you are in there plus the problematic knock sensor wiring harness. Use new intake gaskets.
As suggested very early in this thread, your Bank 2 AF sensor is toast. The 0155 refers to its heater circuit. 1150\1155 are most likely causing the 0171 and 0125 companion codes. I would start by replacing your AF sensor...Bank 2 is easy. Use a Denso from Rockauto. You will almost certainly have to replace your knock sensor too. Replace both while you are in there plus the problematic knock sensor wiring harness. Use new intake gaskets.
Thanks.
I see one sensor under the hood behind radiator.
It's looks pretty easy to access that one.
Is that the bank 2 AF sensor? I've attached a pic here.
Or a link would be helpful.
Bank 2 Sensor 1.
Does that mean there's Bank 2 Sensor 2 as well or the other one is Bank 1?
As for the knock sensors and gasket, that's not something I can do so I'll take it to a local mechanic when time comes.
That's too complicated for me.
That is bank2 sensor1. Bank1 sensor1 is on the opposite side near the firewall. the sensor2 location is after the cat converter. As Artbuc said, change B2S1 out, reset codes, and see if any other codes pop up.
If you have a P0330, you lose the ability to go into fourth gear.
Densoautoparts has 3 sensors for 2000 RX300.
I'm supposed to buy the Air Fuel Ratio, part # 234-9009, right?
Originally Posted by maxSteel
Will your friend swap sensors for a while?
The repair manual I'm reading covers 1999 RX300 and ES300.
In the IAT sensor resistance section it has two different pictures, one for ES300, the other RX300.
In the ES300 picture the E2 and THA pins are the left two.
In the RX300 picture the E2 and THA pins are the right two.
But the denso web site shows the same part number for both cars. One of those pictures is wrong. I never noticed the difference.
I did swap it today and drove around 10 miles.
It showed the knock sensor code but no other code in that duration.
He had to drive it so couldn't keep it for longer.
After I put mine back in, the initial Autozone P0171 hasn't come back.
I tried taking the connector out to check continuity and it doesn't budge.
I bloodied my thumb pressing the tab and pulled the connector but all pain no gain.
Will it help if I spray WD40 or something?
I tried taking the connector out to check continuity and it doesn't budge.
I bloodied my thumb pressing the tab and pulled the connector but all pain no gain.
Will it help if I spray WD40 or something?
Okay thanks.
If you search, you will find I post I made many years ago about the B1S1 connector. I asserted that the most difficult part of replacing the Bank 1 sensor was disconnecting the connector. I don’t think there are any tricks to make it easy...just make sure you are pressing or pulling the tab in the right direction. It is a job that requires 3 hands and you don’t have enough room for 2.
06-17-18, 02:10 AM
