Core2Quad

My front right door on my 1999 RX300 was only locking the door maybe 50% of the time. So I figured it was about time to replace the actuator. I read over the various options, new OEM at like $300 for the whole assembly, rebuilt at about $100, and then opening the replacing the motor for $5. I opted to replace the motor inside of the actuator assembly. I put everything back together and the inside door lock now works perfectly and locks/unlocks the car reliably.

But now for the problems:

1) The wireless key fob remote no longer works at all, and my spare remote doesn't work. Batteries are fine, LED lights up when pressed.
2) When I unlock or lock the drivers side door I can hear a electronic click and it locks/unlocks all doors. The passengers side makes no clicks.

I disconnected the door lock and entire actuator assembly and left it plugged in to the wiring harness. When I lock/unlock from the drivers side interior switch, it seems that the door locking rod only moves in one direction, as in there is motion for only either the locking or unlocking button press but not both. I would have expected motion from both button presses.

Any suggestions? I'm about ready to just order an rebuilt entire actuator assembly. I've spent about 5 hours so far on this project, installed it and uninstalled it multiple times without any luck.

Lexmus

Have you tried reprogramming the keyfob? the procedure starts at 1:26 in the following video

also check out this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...001-rx300.html

Core2Quad

I sprayed some electrical cleaner in the plugs that go to the actuator and door switch assembly also one of the plastic levers was out of position on the actuator assembly so I fixed that. Now the remote is working. And I actually found a feature on the RX300 I never knew that the car had. If you insert the key in the drivers door and hold it there for 2-3 seconds or more it will roll down all windows. Put the key in the other way and it will roll them up. I've known that the remote if you hold unlock that it will do that, but I thought thats kind of neat. It kind of scared me though.

Almost everything is working, but one annoying thing is not. And that is the front right passenger door (the one with the replaced actuator motor) can not be unlocked manually via inserting the key. It can be unlocked via any of the electronic controls inside and with the key fob remote. I think it has something to do with the cable tension to the actuator assembly or something being slightly out of position.

I've literally undone the actuator assembly on this single door 9 times over the past couple days trying to figure this out. It's driving me insane!

When trying to unlock that door manually, its more difficult to turn the lock (higher tension) and does not make an electronic click sound of the actuator assisting in the unlock. It does make an electronic click sound when you lock it manually from that same door lock. But again that door can not be unlocked manually, so there is something wrong.

Lexmus

There is a rod linkage between the door key mechanism and the lock actuator that must not be connected properly. I believe it is a plastic clip that rotates and connects to the long rod that runs from the inside up/down manual locking **** next to the window to the locking mechanism. I know you have done this nine times, but something is still not correct there. Since you are now an expert at this, I would take of the cover off the driver door and look at that mechanism for comparison to help determine what is wrong.

salimshah

Just a reminder,,, do not put the door panel back till you have everything working.

Salim

Core2Quad

So I opened up the actuator assembly because I read in the other mega thread about maybe the spring beneath the gear being out of position. It seemed correct, but I went ahead and re-positioned it correctly again then I closed I re-assembled the entire door latch actuator assembly. First attempt, the car didn't unlock manually with the key. Second attempt, it did. And then it did again for numerous other attempts. Then later on it didn't again. And then now its working the last few times I tried it.

So It's like I now have intermittent can't manually key unlock the door problems.

And yes of course I'm not reassembling the door panel till I get this issue straightened out. I temporarily put some clips to hold up the plastic sheeting, and zip tied the interior wooden unlock/lock / power window switch assembly.

Any other thoughts or suggestions. It's almost seems like a poor electrical connection sort of thing. I sprayed down all the plugs with electrical cleaner though.

vr4/sc400

Sounds like your worm gear is binding up. You were on the right track to check the spring under the gear, but more than likely the issue is with the worm gear that mates to the large round gear.
The way these actuators work is that after the motor spins and locks or unlocks the latch the spring returns the gear to the neutral position. This allows it to properly actuate again.
Half the time the large gear is not properly seated onto the spring. The other half of the time it is because the worm gear is not properly mounted onto the motor.
The real culprit is the insert that you pressed onto the shaft of the new motor. That insert must be pressed down to the exact height (within 1.5mm). If the insert is not pressed down far enough it creates friction at the tip of the worm gear. However the vast majority of the time the insert is pressed down too far. Now the worm gear can slide down far enough to hit the bottom of the plastic housing. This binds the bottom of the worm gear and prevents the actuator from springing back to the neutral position.

Regards,
Lenny

salimshah

Mechanical and electrical are two independent systems [other than one fitting the other]. Disconnect the electrical connector and see if the mechanical is working fine. Mechanical extra-effort is typically due to kink or links not positioned right.

Salim

Core2Quad

I was wondering about the worm gear. When I opened it up, I spun the gear and the bottom of the worm gear, the flat surface closest to the motor was hitting the plastic, but it was not getting stuck or binding in anyway that I could tell, but maybe when its hooked up to everything, its a different story. The metal sleeve gear that goes onto the shaft of the new motor may be pressed on slightly more than the original one. I never measured the original one, so I'm not sure. Do you know what the gap should be?

Core2Quad

I wanted to post a follow up. I fixed the problem a couple weeks ago.

It was indeed the pinion gear on the new motor that was a problem. I pushed the gear on about 1mm too far. I guess it was somehow causing some binding and causing my manual unlock to not work. Ever since correcting this it has worked 100% of the time for the past couple weeks and I've now reinstalled the door panel.

Amazing how 1mm too far on the shaft could cause me hours of wasted time and frustration. To me with the way the assembly seemed to work, there appeared to be plenty of play, but I guess I was wrong.