New buyer looking at a 1st gen around 130k.
First I would like to say hello, I am new to this community and this is my first post but this seems like the place to be if you have a lexus and like it. I've been looking for suv/trucks that require little to no maintenance as I just want to use it for moving stuff around maybe some long trips and other stuff. I remember and still see how tough the camry is and after researching other similar cars I settled on this as the car that would be best all around for me as far as price, maintenance, and reliability. I went to test drive a few and the ones with issues were very apparent (brake issues, suspension problems, a check engine light) so I didn't hold that against the car but the owners lack of maintenance. Just wondering if there are any red flags I should be looking for or is this solid like the older Camrys that last for ever. I just looked at one that had a clean title/carfax with everything good and one owner. It was bought in an auction and the guy will probably take 3900 with 134k ish miles. What strikes me about this car is that it has had one owner basically the entire time and it was in New York until it shows little to no activity on carfax when it came to my state (california) for 2 years. The guy said he bought it at auction... The carfax shows 3 visits to the smog/california certification place... that is it. I am fairly new to buying cars so I am not sure what that means or if it means anything. Anyway thank you guys in advance.
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Do not buy that car that was in New York most its life, unless you actually put it on a lift and look at the underside yourself. With low miles like that, it might have been stored in the winter, but an AWD car like the RX, I bet it was driven in the winter with all that salt and stuff. Even if it looks good in the pictures, I bet you will see some significant rust on the underside.
Main thing I'd look for in a 1st gen RX is documented maintenance history, including regular oil changes. The V6 engine in these cars will tend to develop oil sludge if you don't change the oil on time(every 5k miles). Change the oil on time, do all the other required services on time, these cars are pretty much bomb proof. All the electrical crap on them holds up over the long term, something I can't say about German cars. |
Originally Posted by Aron9000
(Post 9971760)
Do not buy that car that was in New York most its life, unless you actually put it on a lift and look at the underside yourself. With low miles like that, it might have been stored in the winter, but an AWD car like the RX, I bet it was driven in the winter with all that salt and stuff. Even if it looks good in the pictures, I bet you will see some significant rust on the underside.
Main thing I'd look for in a 1st gen RX is documented maintenance history, including regular oil changes. The V6 engine in these cars will tend to develop oil sludge if you don't change the oil on time(every 5k miles). Change the oil on time, do all the other required services on time, these cars are pretty much bomb proof. All the electrical crap on them holds up over the long term, something I can't say about German cars. Inspection StationPassed safety inspection Passed emissions inspection02/15/2016 113,230 California Inspection StationPassed safety inspection Passed emissions inspection07/10/2017 130,616 California Inspection StationPassed safety inspection Passed emissions inspection It would seem more like it was being stored out here in California if anything and I just can't figure out why it is even here. I remember reading somewhere a long time ago.. that you could transfer cars to a different state if there was an issue with the title and it would not show up on the vehicle history. I did go see the car and test drive and it was actually the best driving rx i've seen (i've driven 4 so far) and was able to see the majority of the issues.. 50% front tires, probably could use a set of pads (not urgent brakes fine) and potential front end bushings... heard a few squeaks here and there, there was also a crack on the front bumper that was completely hollow inside... I'm not familiar with how they design the bumpers on these cars but this seemed really flimsy as if it may have been replaced with a cheap after market one. I would always have the car inspected and put in the air before buying anything.. just wanted to make sure it was worth paying for the inspection before I even proceeded. Is the price good @ $3900? |
Is it an AWD or FWD? FWD have a simpler transmission that is less prone to fail and easier to maintain. Check the color of the tranny fluid that it is pinkish and not dark and smelly.
the fact it passed CA emissions means you should have a good cat and O2 and A/F sensors. Some of the 1st gen RX's burn oil due to the rear valve cover passages getting clogged. Check the oil level, and also check the tailpipe for evidence of residue from the oil burning. The fact it passes emissions also means you are less likely to have a major oil burner. As for the mileage on the car, I have a 2000 and it only has 158k miles. There are others that post here with much fewer miles on their RX's. Some people just don't drive alot of miles. |
Originally Posted by Lexmus
(Post 9971916)
Is it an AWD or FWD? FWD have a simpler transmission that is less prone to fail and easier to maintain. Check the color of the tranny fluid that it is pinkish and not dark and smelly.
the fact it passed CA emissions means you should have a good cat and O2 and A/F sensors. Some of the 1st gen RX's burn oil due to the rear valve cover passages getting clogged. Check the oil level, and also check the tailpipe for evidence of residue from the oil burning. The fact it passes emissions also means you are less likely to have a major oil burner. As for the mileage on the car, I have a 2000 and it only has 158k miles. There are others that post here with much fewer miles on their RX's. Some people just don't drive alot of miles. |
Get the car inspected before you buy it paying particular attention to underbody rust, transmission, and electrical systems (eg door lock actuators and heating/cooling servos). Just a clarification, the car will need as much routine maintenance as any other car, and a 16 year old car with 135,000 miles is going to need ongoing repairs. And yes, it has a timing belt which sould be replaced every 90k miles.
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Originally Posted by sktn77a
(Post 9972325)
Get the car inspected before you buy it paying particular attention to underbody rust, transmission, and electrical systems (eg door lock actuators and heating/cooling servos). Just a clarification, the car will need as much routine maintenance as any other car, and a 16 year old car with 135,000 miles is going to need ongoing repairs. And yes, it has a timing belt which sould be replaced every 90k miles.
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I'd say if it doesn't have any rust on it, buy it. Also look under the hood for a sticker indicating the timing belt was changed. Usually they'll put it on the engine cover, on the radiator support, I think the one in my car is on the air filter box. If the timing belt hasn't been done, use that as leverage to get the price lower.
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Look, I get the "cost" justification.
Ever heard of "you always get what you paid for"? This is just that case. Do NOT buy cars that were extensively driven in NYC. Those engines and transmissions are abused and run in continuous strain of stop and go traffic. That's to start with. LOW price points towards vehicle having some hidden issues and seller aware of them and trying to rid of it. I spoke. Unfortunately, it looks like you have mind set on for financial reasons... We sold ou RX300 with 154 000 miles for $5000 cash and I am positive, I under valued it. As car was in GREAT condition because I PERSONALLY took care of it. But that's 5 grand. For much higher mileage and I sold in about 2 weeks. So 3400, unless I misunderstood you, then i do apologize, you are buying trouble. |
repairs I have done since purchase in 2008 (separate from regular maintenance or bulbs). I have done almost all of these myself except the evaporator and A/F sensor (car was out of town at time)
replaced A/C evaporator Driver door lock actuator (replaced motor in actuator) replaced driver door cable from inside handle to door mechanism Brake fluid sensor Replaced relay in window master controller in driver door Replaced radio antenna mast Fixed air mix servo (cleaned dirty lube inside) Fixed air mode servo (subsequently failed again, set mode permanently to front vents) Cleaned IACV Four ignition coils have gone bad and replaced replaced A/F sensor1 bank1 Replaced oil control valve for bank1 Replaced A/C blower motor resoldered keyfob button solder joints (keyfobs became flaky, there were cracks in some of the solder joints) Driver side rear lock actuator (replaced motor in actuator) Replaced rear valve cover with gen 3 model |
Originally Posted by Aron9000
(Post 9972350)
I'd say if it doesn't have any rust on it, buy it. Also look under the hood for a sticker indicating the timing belt was changed. Usually they'll put it on the engine cover, on the radiator support, I think the one in my car is on the air filter box. If the timing belt hasn't been done, use that as leverage to get the price lower.
Originally Posted by ukrkoz
(Post 9972351)
Look, I get the "cost" justification.
Ever heard of "you always get what you paid for"? This is just that case. Do NOT buy cars that were extensively driven in NYC. Those engines and transmissions are abused and run in continuous strain of stop and go traffic. That's to start with. LOW price points towards vehicle having some hidden issues and seller aware of them and trying to rid of it. I spoke. Unfortunately, it looks like you have mind set on for financial reasons... We sold ou RX300 with 154 000 miles for $5000 cash and I am positive, I under valued it. As car was in GREAT condition because I PERSONALLY took care of it. But that's 5 grand. For much higher mileage and I sold in about 2 weeks. So 3400, unless I misunderstood you, then i do apologize, you are buying trouble.
Originally Posted by Lexmus
(Post 9972367)
repairs I have done since purchase in 2008 (separate from regular maintenance or bulbs). I have done almost all of these myself except the evaporator and A/F sensor (car was out of town at time)
replaced A/C evaporator Driver door lock actuator (replaced motor in actuator) replaced driver door cable from inside handle to door mechanism Brake fluid sensor Replaced relay in window master controller in driver door Replaced radio antenna mast Fixed air mix servo (cleaned dirty lube inside) Fixed air mode servo (subsequently failed again, set mode permanently to front vents) Cleaned IACV Four ignition coils have gone bad and replaced replaced A/F sensor1 bank1 Replaced oil control valve for bank1 Replaced A/C blower motor resoldered keyfob button solder joints (keyfobs became flaky, there were cracks in some of the solder joints) Driver side rear lock actuator (replaced motor in actuator) Replaced rear valve cover with gen 3 model |
Originally Posted by CaltonB
(Post 9972380)
Were these repair parts costly (please pm if you want to share)? Sounds like you got your moneys out of it from what you described
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Originally Posted by Lexmus
(Post 9972397)
Not costly since I did so many of them myself, sometimes using aftermarket parts when it makes sense. Often they were fixes of parts, not even requiring a new part purchase. All from using the valuable instructions and comments shared by all the wonderful members on this forum. If Lexus did them all I estimate it would have been at least $7k including parts.
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RockAuto is the best for price checks, although I have never used them to buy so far. For all my cars I have bought off Amazon, aliexpress, ebay, and local part stores.
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Originally Posted by Lexmus
(Post 9972411)
RockAuto is the best for price checks, although I have never used them to buy so far. For all my cars I have bought off Amazon, aliexpress, ebay, and local part stores.
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