shingi

Hi Guys,

I just got a new 2000 RX300 from my uncle. Here is the situation, the car is has been sitting for two years. Last I heard it has trouble going past 30 miles per hour. He never found the time to fix it so now it’s mine. Long story short. I got the car started, she is jerking with flashing cell and couldn't even move. This happens after about 3-4 minutes. She idles very low like 200-300rpm If I slowly let go of the gas. Sometimes she will just die right out. Interestingly when I first read the cell it was p0300, p0301, p0302,p0303, p0305,p0306. Research says that cylinder 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 misfire. After I swap around the coils(just the existing one, not new ones) the codes read only P0300 and P0301 & P0303.

I figure lets replace firewall side vvti valve just in case. Same thing error code still shows P0300 and P0301 & P0303. Maybe the other two codes are just random i don't know. I know enough that this is cylinder 1 and 3 misfire. And I swap the coils around multiple times with different ones, but always come up with those codes. So now consistently P0300 and P0301 & P0303. While the motor is running I manage to un-plug coil number 1 and no change to engine hesitation, but yet swapping the coils makes no difference, and I also change spark plugs on cylinder 1(densor iridium) just to rule out that out but yet same thing. This leads me to believe that maybe the actual wiring is bad? Only coil I didn’t swap out is coil number 5 which is original a misfire but after I swap out the 1,3 to the 2,4,6 side of coils 5 is not longer misfiring?

I then unplug the cylinder number 1 and number 3 connection to the coil, clear the codes and restart vehicle and immediately get code P1300 and P1310. I am under the assumption that this is circuit number 1 and 3, which means the ecu is reading it/sending signal, does this mean coil is bad? but this doesn't explain the swap with the other coils that are good? Do I need to take it the shop to trace the circuitry or is there anything else left I can do short of putting in a spark plug into the coil and see if it sparks upon engine crank? (I thought this would be dangerous idea?)

BTW, the oil has not been change in two years and it is black. Don't know if this has anything to do with the cylinder 1 and 3. I figure I get her up and running first and take her up to high speed to heat up all that oil than do the change.

Any help is appreciated.

Shingi

salimshah

1,3,5 are next to the final. 2,3,4 are next to the radiator.

Swapping makes sense when you have most of the cylinders firing well. With one out six working, I can't say much can be accomplished.

In any case you can check plugs laying them not the head, but do it for a brief interval. Also remember, presence/absence of spark is important, but the timing needs to be correct too.

I would wait on changing the oil, till you have the vehicle road worthy. For sure do not stress the engine with old oil.

Salim

shingi

Is it also possible that this could be a timing belt issue. He said the car was running before but I look at the belt and last change was at 90k. Now she is 188k. I mean possible that the belt is skipping a teeth or more so timing is off? Can one know if this using obd2 scanner?

​​​Shingi

salimshah

or just the plugs.

It seems you need new Belt.

So the question is do you want to invest in WaterPump, tensioner, idlers (seals?).

1/6 shows things are good then atleast one cam is in sync.

Salim

Drcoffee

So it sat for 2 year? Did you ever think the misfire codes were related to the spoiled gasoline? Your fuel injuectors may be clogged. Thats where I would start. Drain the tank, refuel with fresh gas and and add sea foam to the fuel. Run it again to clear the fuel lines. It sounds like you are getting spark. What salim said, dont dump money into big fixes until you get the sorted. You can source a set of injectors from a dismalter or remanufactered set from rockauto.

and change the oil now. Why would you think its a good idea to ever run an egine with sludged oil in it?

shingi

Well a friend suggest a compression test, and all cyclinders came back around 150-160 psi, except for cyclinder 1. NO compression on cyclinder 1. I'm thinking this weekened probably a good idea for a leak down test if I have time, but usually when there's 0 pressure, it's not good news. Speculations? does a leaking head gasket cause 0 compression?

If it's bad/bent valves, rings, etc what $ am i looking at?

Shingi

Drcoffee

So I found this thread when researching the oil consumption issue. Completely dead cyl #2

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/83...-cylinder.html