Time to do my suspension
03-27-17, 06:14 PM
#31
Driver School Candidate
The struts from FCS were of the three stud variety .... bolt in w/o modification. No issues with the install. The first one took 1.5 hours and the rest took .5 hour each - it always works that way for me. I'll update as I learn more but the vehicle will be going back to Boulder in a few months and I don't drive it much now - as my daughter reports in I'll forward along comments to the group. With that said, so far it all seems to be a worthwhile investment in a vehicle worth about $3500 (or less).
03-29-17, 05:53 AM
#32
The struts from FCS were of the three stud variety .... bolt in w/o modification. No issues with the install. The first one took 1.5 hours and the rest took .5 hour each - it always works that way for me. I'll update as I learn more but the vehicle will be going back to Boulder in a few months and I don't drive it much now - as my daughter reports in I'll forward along comments to the group. With that said, so far it all seems to be a worthwhile investment in a vehicle worth about $3500 (or less).
05-31-17, 04:18 PM
#33
I finally ordered the left and right front quick struts. Had shoulder surgery and a long recovery process and I'm finally good to work again.
Since I first posted on this thread, my front end has become even more ridiculously noisy (metal chatter and thunking noises), bumpy, and loose feeling. The crappy part is that I'm planning on getting a newer vehicle in August or September now but there is no way I'll be able to sell this thing with the way it drives right now. Hopefully I can get by with just replacing the front end.
I'll post again after I get them installed and report on the drive etc. Unfortunately I won't be able to do a review after a full year.
Since I first posted on this thread, my front end has become even more ridiculously noisy (metal chatter and thunking noises), bumpy, and loose feeling. The crappy part is that I'm planning on getting a newer vehicle in August or September now but there is no way I'll be able to sell this thing with the way it drives right now. Hopefully I can get by with just replacing the front end.
I'll post again after I get them installed and report on the drive etc. Unfortunately I won't be able to do a review after a full year.
05-31-17, 05:09 PM
#34
Moderator
Lower control arm is more susceptible to wear. Make sure that it is checked before you get the alignment done.
Salim
Salim
06-05-17, 09:26 AM
#35
06-05-17, 09:31 AM
#36
Moderator
You need long pry bars, sometimes it helps to get the wheel off the ground. You can even find out by good visual, but nothing beets long pry bars. Be careful in selecting anchor (pivot) points and be prepared as the pry bar can slip.
Salim
Salim
09-12-17, 07:07 PM
#37
I still haven't finished this repair. My summer was crazy and it was ridiculously hot in my area (Sacramento CA had a long heat wave this year) and I avoided the work all season. I'm going to do it myself now. I got tools, new 6 ton jack stands (US Jack), and I'm buying a floor jack in a couple days. I have a breaker bar, PB blaster, 6 point sockets short and deep, tension wrench. I think I'm covered for tools but always looking for suggestions.
Salimshah, you recommended checking the lower control arm and gave me a suggestion on how to check it. If I get it jacked up and remove the wheel and try to jiggle it, is that good enough of a test to see if the bushings in the lower control arm are bad?
That is what was recommended in this video regarding replacing the lower control arm:
If it looks like the bushings on the lower control arm are bad, then I read that I need to buy an all new lower control arm as they don't sell the bushings separately. I see this on a couple parts websites: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...96b43f80379423 Does that sound correct?
I also read on another older thread here that the lower control arms from a Camry of the same year is exactly the same and costs a fraction of the Lexus lower control arm: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...arm-plate.html <-- can anyone else confirm this? (or maybe get the Highlander version?)
If I end up having to replace the lower control arm, I'm assuming that it wouldn't hurt to replace the ball joint as well. This is starting to sound like a big job at this point though so maybe I should just focus on the quick struts first and then look into the lower control arm and ball joints later as it seems that they are separate procedures from each other.
Your advice is appreciated.
Salimshah, you recommended checking the lower control arm and gave me a suggestion on how to check it. If I get it jacked up and remove the wheel and try to jiggle it, is that good enough of a test to see if the bushings in the lower control arm are bad?
That is what was recommended in this video regarding replacing the lower control arm:
If it looks like the bushings on the lower control arm are bad, then I read that I need to buy an all new lower control arm as they don't sell the bushings separately. I see this on a couple parts websites: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...96b43f80379423 Does that sound correct?
I also read on another older thread here that the lower control arms from a Camry of the same year is exactly the same and costs a fraction of the Lexus lower control arm: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...arm-plate.html <-- can anyone else confirm this? (or maybe get the Highlander version?)
If I end up having to replace the lower control arm, I'm assuming that it wouldn't hurt to replace the ball joint as well. This is starting to sound like a big job at this point though so maybe I should just focus on the quick struts first and then look into the lower control arm and ball joints later as it seems that they are separate procedures from each other.
Your advice is appreciated.
09-12-17, 10:22 PM
#38
Moderator
Video is fairly good to test, but the shaking from 3-6 Oclock position can be due to worn tie rod ends. To be fair, the camera did show give in the control arm. Also for suspension, I torque all the bolts with the wheels on the ground.
Salim
Salim
09-13-17, 06:51 PM
#39
Unfortunately they do not make what are affectionately know as "quick struts" for the RX300. So you're left to piece it out. KYB is, as much as I've understood, the OEM struts just rebranded. I've done the two RX's we have in the house now with KYB struts and Monroe mounts and all seems to be well. I did not to them myself, but purchased all the parts myself and had my mechanic install. The one RX had 110k miles when I did the struts and the other 67k miles. This was all within the last 6 months.
So now it seems like you have lots of information from knowledgable members. So let us know what you decide! Find a good Indy mechanic to do it for you, don't waste time at the dealer.
So now it seems like you have lots of information from knowledgable members. So let us know what you decide! Find a good Indy mechanic to do it for you, don't waste time at the dealer.
Also is changing the strut mount and keeping the same strut in that much extra work? No whoever asked that earlier.
Last edited by CaltonB; 09-13-17 at 06:59 PM.
09-14-17, 09:54 AM
#40
I believe that swapping out just the strut will require you to compress the spring. This is considerably more work in my opinion and you have the risk factor of the spring popping free while you're working which can potentially be very dangerous.
09-14-17, 09:55 AM
#41
I am about to put in a pair of the FCS quick struts. They are cheap.
I believe that swapping out just the strut will require you to compress the spring. This is considerably more work in my opinion and you have the risk factor of the spring popping free while you're working which can potentially be very dangerous.
I believe that swapping out just the strut will require you to compress the spring. This is considerably more work in my opinion and you have the risk factor of the spring popping free while you're working which can potentially be very dangerous.
Last edited by CaltonB; 09-15-17 at 09:13 PM.
09-15-17, 02:29 PM
#42
I still haven't finished this repair. My summer was crazy and it was ridiculously hot in my area (Sacramento CA had a long heat wave this year) and I avoided the work all season. I'm going to do it myself now. I got tools, new 6 ton jack stands (US Jack), and I'm buying a floor jack in a cou
If it looks like the bushings on the lower control arm are bad, then I read that I need to buy an all new lower control arm as they don't sell the bushings separately. I see this on a couple parts websites: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...96b43f80379423 Does that sound correct?
.
If it looks like the bushings on the lower control arm are bad, then I read that I need to buy an all new lower control arm as they don't sell the bushings separately. I see this on a couple parts websites: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...96b43f80379423 Does that sound correct?
.
The following users liked this post:
jwigley (09-18-17)
09-18-17, 04:27 PM
#43
Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, the quick struts come with their own spring already attached. Yes, you just pull out the entire strut assembly and put in the new one. No need to compress the spring with the "quick struts".
09-18-17, 04:31 PM
#44
IIRC...Energy suspension sells inner rear lower control arm bushings and Moog sells the rear side bushing... however it is cheap enough and less labor intensive to buy a used or aftermarket control arm with new bushings pressed in. It really comes down to your time to press out the bushing shells and decision to reuse your known factory control arms.
09-25-17, 04:48 AM
#45
At this point I'm only doing this work so that I can drive the car for a few more months and then sell it after the holiday season. I don't mind if I get aftermarket lower control arms. The best I've seen is $99 for each. I saw that the Camry lower control arms are the same and read that the price is cheaper but they are the same price too it seems. Any suggestions for a better price?