Timing Belt Make-do Tools
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 237
Likes: 3
From: WV
I'm sooo happy it wasn't the rear one because getting that new seal out was an absolute dog, even with my fancy, shmancy tool.What a PITA. Sorry to hear you have to do the same thing.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,566
Likes: 1,391
From: Austin, TX
Turns out it is the back (firewall side) seal. Used the paint can opener to get behind the seal and used a pliers as lever, using the center bolt as the fulcrum.
Hope the seal is in stock.
Salim
Hope the seal is in stock.
Salim
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 237
Likes: 3
From: WV
Yikes. That one is a pain.
After doing mine for a second time, I realized another way to press the seals into place with a make-do tool. I'm posting the idea in case it benefits someone else.
The way I had rigged it using the harmonic balancer puller is cumbersome and doesn't quite work perfectly because the threaded holes I used don't line up centered to the spindle, so you have to keep fiddling to make sure the seal goes in evenly. I did find that a 1-1/2" PVC pipe is the correct diameter, but it's hard to cut them straight and the edges tend to be sharp. Alternately, a slip collar for a 1-1/4" pipe also works (but a 1-1/4" pipe does not). It's just enough extra width and the edges are smooth and thicker than the 1-1/2" pipe. Unfortunately, the slip collar is too long to make it work properly in the tight spaces.
After finally seeing a picture of the proper tool, I think a person could make a tool that functions similarly for a total cost of under $8:
(1) 12mm bolt, full thread, threaded the same as the cam pulley bolt (I THINK it's 1.25 based on a ruler measurement of the cam bolt) no longer than 85mm for the rear and 100mm for the front (best estimate based on measurements)
(1) PVC ELECTRICAL adapter for boxes: Links to examples
http://www.lowes.com/pd_49111-1716-L...3822961&rpp=32
http://www.lowes.com/pd_50610-1716-L...d=3822965&Ntt=
note: I did not confirm if the electrical pipe fits over or inside these connectors. I suspect they work like the plumbing and fit inside. If that is the case, then you'll want the connector for 1-1/4" diameter pipe for the camshaft seals.
(1) 2" wide fender washer for 1/2" bolt (fits snug on 12mm bold stud)
(1) 2" wide fender washer for 5/8" bolt (this is a much thicker washer than the 1/2")
(1) 12mm nut
Screw the nut all the way to the top of the bolt, followed by the 1/2" fender washer, then the 5/8" fender washer, the electrical adapter, and finally the seal. Screw the bolt into the end of the spindle (where the pulley bolt goes). Start to seat the seal, then snug up the PVC, washers, and nut. Once everything is snug and even, turn the nut to squeeze the seal into place. You may need to hold the center bolt still while cranking on the nut.
The cam bolt stud is 20mm long and threads all the way in. Depending on the fitting used to press the seal in, I guessed I would need a bolt length between 65mm-100mm. If I ever have to do this again, I'll buy a few different lengths of the bolt and return whatever doesn't work.
Everything except the 100mm long bolt can be found at Lowes (and presumably Home Depot). The washers are standard sized because that is what was in stock. You will either need a thick, tough washer (or two), or stack 3-4 thinner ones. The most expensive component is the 100mm long 12mm bolt, which my local Ace Hardware carries for $4.35
One last update: A Better Pulley Holder: Auto Zone seems to have a better tool to lend for holding the pulleys: Adjustable Fan Clutch Holding Tool. OEM part# 27270 http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...ge/209526_0_0/ You have to lay out $80, but this is a very nice, hefty tool that I used for both the cam pulleys and the crank pulley. You'll still need 2 bolts to use as holding pins for the cams; I used the ones that I used on the A/C holder. You'll also need the M6 bolts for the crankshaft pulley. There are some drawbacks to this tool, but it worked very well.
After doing mine for a second time, I realized another way to press the seals into place with a make-do tool. I'm posting the idea in case it benefits someone else.
The way I had rigged it using the harmonic balancer puller is cumbersome and doesn't quite work perfectly because the threaded holes I used don't line up centered to the spindle, so you have to keep fiddling to make sure the seal goes in evenly. I did find that a 1-1/2" PVC pipe is the correct diameter, but it's hard to cut them straight and the edges tend to be sharp. Alternately, a slip collar for a 1-1/4" pipe also works (but a 1-1/4" pipe does not). It's just enough extra width and the edges are smooth and thicker than the 1-1/2" pipe. Unfortunately, the slip collar is too long to make it work properly in the tight spaces.
After finally seeing a picture of the proper tool, I think a person could make a tool that functions similarly for a total cost of under $8:
(1) 12mm bolt, full thread, threaded the same as the cam pulley bolt (I THINK it's 1.25 based on a ruler measurement of the cam bolt) no longer than 85mm for the rear and 100mm for the front (best estimate based on measurements)
(1) PVC ELECTRICAL adapter for boxes: Links to examples
http://www.lowes.com/pd_49111-1716-L...3822961&rpp=32
http://www.lowes.com/pd_50610-1716-L...d=3822965&Ntt=
note: I did not confirm if the electrical pipe fits over or inside these connectors. I suspect they work like the plumbing and fit inside. If that is the case, then you'll want the connector for 1-1/4" diameter pipe for the camshaft seals.
(1) 2" wide fender washer for 1/2" bolt (fits snug on 12mm bold stud)
(1) 2" wide fender washer for 5/8" bolt (this is a much thicker washer than the 1/2")
(1) 12mm nut
Screw the nut all the way to the top of the bolt, followed by the 1/2" fender washer, then the 5/8" fender washer, the electrical adapter, and finally the seal. Screw the bolt into the end of the spindle (where the pulley bolt goes). Start to seat the seal, then snug up the PVC, washers, and nut. Once everything is snug and even, turn the nut to squeeze the seal into place. You may need to hold the center bolt still while cranking on the nut.
The cam bolt stud is 20mm long and threads all the way in. Depending on the fitting used to press the seal in, I guessed I would need a bolt length between 65mm-100mm. If I ever have to do this again, I'll buy a few different lengths of the bolt and return whatever doesn't work.
Everything except the 100mm long bolt can be found at Lowes (and presumably Home Depot). The washers are standard sized because that is what was in stock. You will either need a thick, tough washer (or two), or stack 3-4 thinner ones. The most expensive component is the 100mm long 12mm bolt, which my local Ace Hardware carries for $4.35
One last update: A Better Pulley Holder: Auto Zone seems to have a better tool to lend for holding the pulleys: Adjustable Fan Clutch Holding Tool. OEM part# 27270 http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...ge/209526_0_0/ You have to lay out $80, but this is a very nice, hefty tool that I used for both the cam pulleys and the crank pulley. You'll still need 2 bolts to use as holding pins for the cams; I used the ones that I used on the A/C holder. You'll also need the M6 bolts for the crankshaft pulley. There are some drawbacks to this tool, but it worked very well.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,566
Likes: 1,391
From: Austin, TX
Here was my make do
1-1/4"pvc coupling ($0.62). Sanded the edge down and it is perfect fit for the cam seal.
I bought a 1-1/2" galv floor flange for the main seal, but did not use it.
Took the RX for a test spin and no leaks.
Salim
1-1/4"pvc coupling ($0.62). Sanded the edge down and it is perfect fit for the cam seal.
I bought a 1-1/2" galv floor flange for the main seal, but did not use it.
Took the RX for a test spin and no leaks.
Salim
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mooseboy84
ES - 1st to 6th Gen (1990-2018)
3
Oct 31, 2015 11:35 PM
rx7guy
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
1
Apr 29, 2009 12:27 PM
