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Hi, I have these codes from autozone and OD is stuck sometimes. P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2) P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
I'm confused on the two replies above.
Is it just matter of bypassing bad sensor wire under the glove box or need to do something with the sensor harness as well? I assume I only have to bypass wire under the glove box but wanted to confirm.
I have never taken glove box out so will see how that goes.
Thanks to both and Bobster.
This should be good. You are about to start hacking into your ECU wiring harness except you don’t know where the ECU is or how to remove the glovebox.
Haha...
some people say glove box when they are talking about console and vice versa so need to confirm.
I'm good at electronics.
Fix audio circuit boards, crossover etc...
Just haven't dealt with car repair much.
well I did replace window motors in camaro.
Big thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini for the thread and pictures.
Big thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini for the thread and pictures.
My 2000 RX300 has exactly the same black and clear wires for knock sensors 2 and 1.
Originally Posted by artbuc
This should be good. You are about to start hacking into your ECU wiring harness except you don’t know where the ECU is or how to remove the glovebox.
It's good.
Did it just now.
Very easy to take the black panel under the glove box and the glove box.
The air bag cables also snap out easily.
I was at the ECU in few minutes.
Hard part was to untangle/unwrap the two wires needed as they were twisted in the middle so had to carefully move other wires so I could get enough slack.
Also, I didn't use crimp connector. I soldered the two wires instead as I feel more comfortable with soldering iron.
I just cut the black wire and stripped little bit to expose the tip.
Then I spliced the insulation of clear wire without cutting it to expose the wire.
I heated the tip of the black wire and the exposed part of clear wire and sipped in some lead.
Checked after it cooled and can't even pull on it so the join should be good.
Wrapped it with electrical tape and called it good.
Done deal.
Cleared the codes and drove around.
Now it shifts to OD and RPM at 55mph is only around 2100 instead of 4000+ before.
I only drove around 10 miles but the only code I have now is P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control.
What's that about?
Big thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini for the thread and pictures.
My 2000 RX300 has exactly the same black and clear wires for knock sensors 2 and 1.
It's good.
Did it just now.
Very easy to take the black panel under the glove box and the glove box.
The air bag cables also snap out easily.
I was at the ECU in few minutes.
Hard part was to untangle/unwrap the two wires needed as they were twisted in the middle so had to carefully move other wires so I could get enough slack.
Also, I didn't use crimp connector. I soldered the two wires instead as I feel more comfortable with soldering iron.
I just cut the black wire and stripped little bit to expose the tip.
Then I spliced the insulation of clear wire without cutting it to expose the wire.
I heated the tip of the black wire and the exposed part of clear wire and sipped in some lead.
Checked after it cooled and can't even pull on it so the join should be good.
Wrapped it with electrical tape and called it good.
Done deal.
Cleared the codes and drove around.
Now it shifts to OD and RPM at 55mph is only around 2100 instead of 4000+ before.
I only drove around 10 miles but the only code I have now is P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control.
What's that about?
Nice job! Keep driving...I expect AF sensor code will appear in short order.
A faulty AF sensor will almost always throw P0125 as a companion code because it takes too long for engine to go into closed loop control. Yes, it is possible that you have a bad ECT sensor but unlikely as your data indicated 176 F. Normal temp is closer to 195 F so I assume data was taken before car was fully warm. In any event, you would not have thrown AF codes unless you had a bad AF sensor and it did not fix itself.
Ok....been looking through threads and haven't found what I need, so far....so throwing this out there in case someone has an idea.
I have a 2000 ES300, 158k on the ODO. Several weeks ago the car was throwing the P0330 code. Took it to a "good" independent shop that specializes in Toyota and Honda. I had other deferred maintenance work to do so I had them do a bunch). Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, accessory belts, valve cover gaskets, and of course, the knock sensor issue. I decided to bite the bullet and told the shop to order two OEM knock sensors, the sub harness and all the gaskets for the intakes, etc. that were needed.
That work was done, car runs great...except, after these repairs were done, the P0330 code came back. They tore it down again, switch the brand new sensors, reinstalled everything, and same thing. P0330 code came back. Last resort, I did the "hack" as described above for experimentation purposes and now, the car throws a P0325 code. I would expect if this hack was bad, that both the P0330 and P0325 codes would be going off. First try was a quick splice but, I removed that and did a solder connection.
Anyone have any ideas on where to go with this next? Love the car and would really want to keep it running for the daily work driver but this code is making me want to tear my hair out!
Ok....been looking through threads and haven't found what I need, so far....so throwing this out there in case someone has an idea.
I have a 2000 ES300, 158k on the ODO. Several weeks ago the car was throwing the P0330 code. Took it to a "good" independent shop that specializes in Toyota and Honda. I had other deferred maintenance work to do so I had them do a bunch). Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, accessory belts, valve cover gaskets, and of course, the knock sensor issue. I decided to bite the bullet and told the shop to order two OEM knock sensors, the sub harness and all the gaskets for the intakes, etc. that were needed.
That work was done, car runs great...except, after these repairs were done, the P0330 code came back. They tore it down again, switch the brand new sensors, reinstalled everything, and same thing. P0330 code came back. Last resort, I did the "hack" as described above for experimentation purposes and now, the car throws a P0325 code. I would expect if this hack was bad, that both the P0330 and P0325 codes would be going off. First try was a quick splice but, I removed that and did a solder connection.
Anyone have any ideas on where to go with this next? Love the car and would really want to keep it running for the daily work driver but this code is making me want to tear my hair out!
Maybe you will have better advice in ES forum?
Only worth while addition I can make is that ... make sure you got the OEM sensors matching your VIN number.
Salim
The test procedure says to disconnect the knock sensor harness connector and jumper it so the 2 sensor is connected to the 1 wire and vice-versa.
After the engine is warmed up perform quick racing to 4,000 rpm three times.
If the code doesn't switch (P0325->P0330 or P0330->P0325) look for an open or short between the connector and the ECU. If the harness is good "check and replace the engine ECU". Don't know how to "check" it though.
If the code does change look for an open or short between the connector and the sensor.
If P0325 has changed to P0330, check the circuit on the right bank side.
If P0330 has changed to P0325, check the circuit on the left bank side.
@Lexmus, I have been running premium since this issue popped up on the off chance that was it. As posted by maxSteel, it was my understanding this code only gets thrown when there is a problem with the knock sensor circuits and a knocking condition in the engine won't throw the codes.
@salimshah, yes, the knock sensors and sub-harness were OEM (KS verified with VIN#).
Just find it strange that the code was p0330, on its own, when this first started. After the "hack", the code changed to p0325. I would think if the hack was bad, I'd be throwing both a P0325 and p0330.
I am taking it in again tonight to have the shop look at it again. I hope it isn't the ECU.
06-10-18, 02:48 PM
Big thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini for the thread and pictures.
